34 
JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 
January 11,1894. 
National Rose Society’s Exhibition at Windsoe. 
This Exhibition, which will he held on June 27th, should prove a 
success, for the local Society is actively making the preliminary 
arrangements. The Queen has, we are informed, graciously promised to 
give a prize, to be offered in such class as the Executive may determine. 
Reigate Rose Association and Cottage Garden Society. 
By the amalgamation of the Cottage Garden Society and Rose 
Association of this Surrey town it is hoped that a great South of 
England show will result. In the Rose schedule we observe that very 
good prizes are offered in open classes to growers of (A) any number of 
plants ; (b) of not more than 2000 ; (C) not more than 1000 ; and (d) 
growers of not more than bOO plants. In the local classes prizes to 
growers of not more than 100, and more than fifty plants respectively. 
The Honorary Secretaries, Mr. William Wells and Mr. R. G. West, trust 
to receive adequate support to enable them to carry out their project 
successfully. 
Hybrid Teas. 
I HAVE read with much interest the able criticisms of “ W. R. 
Raillem ” (page 559), and Mr. Grahame (page 677, last voL), on the 
new section for Hybrid Teas in the National Rose Society catalogue, and 
thoroughly agree with the views expressed by them. The idea in 
forming this new section, so far, at least, as I understood it, was to 
bring in some beautiful hybrids such as Viscountess Folkestone, Grace 
Darling, and the like, which, from their strong infusion of Tea blood 
and similarity to the true Teas, were unfitted to be placed among the 
exhibition list of Hybrid Perpetuals ; but why a Hybrid China like 
La France, and why a Rose like Captain Christy, which in its flower 
and foliage appears to show more Bourbon than Tea ancestry, should 
now be pitchforked out of the position they have held for many years 
among Hybrid Perpetuals into this new section, is beyond the under¬ 
standing of anyone who has discussed the question with me during the 
past exhibition season. 
With “ W. R. Raillem ” I accept my full share of responsibility for 
the mistake, whatever my individual action may have been, and echo 
his prophecy that the new classification is unlikely to be permanent.— 
E. B. Lindsell, 
Climbing Tea Roses. 
For culture under glass, whether in pots or planted into the side 
borders, few plants will produce a better and more certain crop of bloom 
than Tea Roses. With a few of the newer additions we now possess a 
grand assortment of colour, the varieties mentioned below being well 
suited for culture under glass. 
Climbing Niphetos is a pure white, of extra strong growth, and remark¬ 
ably free blooming. Reine Marie-Henriette gives us a deep red flower 
of excellent quality; the buds are long, well shaped, and accompanied 
by handsome deep green foliage. This is a superior colour under glass ; 
in this respect it forms an exception to the rule, as most Rosea are 
considerably deeper in shade when grown in the open. Mar^chal Niel 
needs little comment, as it is so well known as the best yellow Rose, even 
after thirty years’ culture. However, it has a formidable rival in 
Climbing Perle des Jardins, a Rose of comparatively recent introduction. 
This is one of the most decided acquisitions of the present decade, when 
many grand Roses have been given to the public. It is a deep yellow 
of extraordinary strength. L’Ideal possesses a remarkably sweet 
perfume, as well as almost indescribable colours. Rose, carmine, copper, 
salmon, and orange are all blended more or less, some blooms having 
one of the above colours more pronounced than others. Not very 
double, but particularly free, and much more perpetual than most 
climbers. William Allen Richardson is of similar character except for 
colour. This is a deep orange and apricot, sometimes like a deep 
coloured yolk of an egg, varying from that to pale orange and lemon 
white. The variations are a remarkable feature in this grand Rose, and 
are unaccountable—a plant may carry all deep coloured blossoms during 
one crop, and almost all pale at the next, or both may be present. I 
have frequency had a large truss of some fifteen blooms in different 
stages and colours, the very deepest shades being borne by a bloom next 
to one almost pure white. It is like Mar^chal Niel in its uncertainty of 
growth and liability to canker. Occasionally one meets with a plant 
which remains in a puny state for a long time, although its fellow, and 
under precisely the same treatment, developes into a grand specimen in 
every respect. 
Madame Bbrard has the reputation of being a shy bloomer under 
glass. My own plants are a complete denial of this, for they bloom 
from almost every eye throughout the length of 15 feet growths. This 
Rose requires its wood to he a little more matured than others, when it 
is the grandest of the apricot-buffs. Bouquet d’Or seems to be a deeper 
coloured Gloire de Dijon, and perhaps hardly so strong in growth 
When I say it is an improvement upon Gloire de Dijon under glass there 
is need for no more. Madame Chauvry is a rich salmon-yellow, possessing 
a warm rosy yellow shade; a difficult Rose to describe, but quite distinct. 
and exceedingly pretty. Lamarque was introduced upwards of sixty years 
ago, and is still the best lemon-white ; too tender for any open position 
but a warm wall in the south when growing in the open air ; it is a 
grand Rose under glass where numbers of blooms are wanted. Henriette 
de Beauveau is an 1887 Rose, and one of the best clear yellows we have. 
Grand form and size, free blooming, and very sweet scented. Comtesse 
de Bouchard was only introduced in 1890, and I have not seen enough 
of it to speak positively, but I think sufficiently high of this new variety 
to include it in my list. It is very large and full; a peculiar colour, 
yellow or lemon-white and saffron ; most distinct. 
The six best of the above are Mardchal Niel, Climbing Perle des 
Jardins, Climbing Niphetos, W. A, Richardson, Reine Marie Henriette, 
and L’Ideal. I am writing more particularly about Roses under glass, 
but with the exception of Lamarque and Climbing Niphetos it would 
be difficult to select better varieties for walls and fences in the open. 
There is a decided advantage in having these climbers in pots when 
early forced blooms are required. They should be grown similarly to 
young Vines, one or two good rods being much better than a number 
of medium growths. December and January are two excellent months 
to commence operations, as we are in the midst of gralting. Seedling 
Briars established in small pots are the best stock, being closely followed 
by Briar cuttings, which may be potted at once, and then worked a few 
weeks later, or be grafted before potting. I like to have the roots of 
stocks partly established, and on the point of producing a good flow of 
sap. It is of greater importance than is generally recognised to have 
the stocks in the exact stage I will describe. They should not be 
sufficiently forward to receive a check to root action when cut down 
for receiving the graft, nor should they be quite dormant, Catch 
them when new roots are starting freely, and about a quarter of an 
inch long ; no more. Where stocks are not available, portions of healthy 
Briar roots will do almost as well. There is a great advantage in the 
latter as regards probable suckers. It is well to secure the roots in 
suitable pieces, and to lay them, in soil under cover for a couple of 
weeks before grafting, if they are to be worked previous to being 
potted up. They are more easy to handle thus, and if the rise of sap 
be encouraged in this way it is more nearly approaching that of the 
graft. The latter are much best when procured from plants under glass, 
and unless the roots and stocks are prepared in the manner indicated 
we get the sap of grafts a little more forward than that of the stock, 
whereas the contrary is far preferable. 
When grafted they should be placed in a close case, having a gentle 
bottom heat ; 65° is a good temperature. Grafting wax, moss, clay, or 
any other substance are not used by the majority of trade growers to 
keep air from the wound while a junction is being made, as healthy 
scions and stocks unite better without such aids. Some few are certain 
to grow in advance of the rest, and it is a good plan to remove them 
from the case when young growth of about 2 inches has formed. On no 
account must they receive any severe check, or strong rods of growth 
cannot be produced. Repot them when necessary, using a slightly 
richer compost each time. I do not care for them in larger than 6 to 
7-inch pots during the first summer, as I find the wood matures better, 
and quite enough length can be obtained if the plants are treated 
generously. Frequent syringing and full exposure to sun, especially 
towards the latter part of the summer, are most essential. It is best to 
remove them to the open by the middle of July. My plan is to stand 
them on the south side of a hedge and half plunge the pots. The 
shoots are secured to the hedge by one or two stout pieces of string 
stretched from end to end. This keeps them from blowing down and 
being otherwise injured by wind. They also get plenty of air, partial 
shelter, and full exposure to sun. Here they remain until thoroughly 
ripened, a process which may be materially assisted by judicious 
watering. 
Many persons object to repotting their Roses previous to forcing, 
believing that a greater profusion of bloom is secured by keeping the 
plants root-bound. My own experience is decidedly in favour of an 
additional shift into good soil after the plants have become matured 
and rested for a few weeks. Last year I potted all those I intend 
forcing about the middle of October. By doing this early the roots 
move steadily and strongly into new soil, being far different to those 
produced upon root-bound plants. This system also recommends itself 
to me for the following reasons. The compost in a 6-inch pot is neces¬ 
sarily much exhausted after having produced the strong rods we require, 
and is therefore incapable of carrying a heavy crop of blooms and foliage 
under the strain of early forcing. True, they can be aided by liquid 
stimulants, but even then it is a great tax upon the roots. Nor do the 
roots commence new growths until introduced to heat, while if fresh 
potted we get a natural and steady start that is greatly in favour of 
satisfactory breaks of new wood when taken under cover. It is of 
considerabie importance to get the roots moving in this way, otherwise 
artificial heat causes the eyes to burst so rapidly that the whole of the 
sap in the wood is soon exhausted, and a check is experienced through 
the backwardness of the roots. We can have no better guide than 
Nature, and the roots of plants invariably start first under these condi¬ 
tions. A check to young growth, from whatever cause, is often the sole 
reason of an indifferent crop and much blind growth. Dryness at the 
root is a fruitful cause of this, and a root-bound plant dries very rapidly. 
When new growth is active, and the roots have permeated the fresh 
soil, liquid manures are beneficial and necessary. My plants are brought 
into heat in batches so as to keep a success’on of bloom. On November 
15th I cut blooms of climbing Perle des Jardins and L’Ideal from plants 
grafted last January and treated as I have described. This was my 
