78 
JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 
January 25,1894. 
Gulf Stream does on the western coasts of the British Isles and Norway ; 
and 3, The influence of mountain ranges, these affording protection 
from northerly and easterly blasts, and also condensing the moisture 
from the vapour-laden winds blowing from the Pacific. Dr. Williams 
then gave particulars as to the temperature and rainfall at Los Angeles, 
San Diego, Santa Barbara, and Riverside. From these it appears that 
the climate of Southern California is warm and temperate, and on the 
whole equable, with more moisture than that of Colorado, and that it is 
a climate which would allow of much outdoor life all the year round. 
The President next described the effect of the climate on vegetation, 
and showed what results had been obtained by diligent watering and 
gardening in this beautiful region. Wine and brandy are made in South 
California ; but Oranges and Lemons are the leading crops, varied with 
Guavas, Pine Apples, Dates, Almonds, Figs, Olives, Apricots, Plums, and 
vegetables. On higher land Apples, Pears, and Cherries bear well, and 
our English summer small fruit is also grown ; while Strawberries ripen 
all the year round, and are plentiful except in July and August. 
Dr. Williams concluded by saying that many an invalid has regained 
vigour and health as well as secured a competence in the sunny 
atmosphere of Southern California. 
Mr. R. Inwards, F.R.A.S., was elected President for the ensuing year 
HARDY FRUIT GARDEN. 
Completing- Winter Pruning. —It is desirable that all fruit trees 
in the open quarters, Pears, Apples, Plums and Cherries on walls, 
should forthwith, if not already done, have the superfluous and crowded 
wood removed, the trees cleansed if necessary, and the branches of wall 
trees readjusted, securing them with strong ligatures, also thinning out 
or reducing rank clusters of spurs. 
Preserving Gooseberry and Currant Buds.— Some persons 
leave the pruning of Gooseberries till the spring, inasmuch as birds, 
chiefly bullfinches and voracious sparrows, do immense damage in 
denuding bushes of their most promising buds. When, however, it is 
desirable to complete the pruning of Gooseberries at once, it is a good 
plan, in order to save the buds, to dust the bushes with fine dry lime. 
It adheres readily when the trees are wet, but the operation of applying 
it is unpleasant during heavy rain. It is much easier to dredge it on 
the trees in dry weather, first making the shoots wet with a fine-rosed 
watering can or a syringe. Apply the lime liberally, and the bushes 
when dry will be quite white. It may be used on Gooseberries and 
Currants either before or after pruning- 
Pruning Gooseberries —Moderate sized bushes containing a fair 
amount of young wood evenly disposed throughout, so as not to 
unduly crowd are sure of giving good returns of ifruit. Remove 
downward and inward growing shoots and those close to the ground, 
making allowance for the natural habit of drooping varieties; also 
shortening rambling growths to make the bushes compact in shape. 
The shoots dispensed with to prevent overcrowding shorten to an inch 
for forming spurs. On walls and trellises spur-pruning must be adopted. 
Pruning Red and White Currants. —Having secured a fair 
number of main branches about a foot asunder, shorten the side growths 
to within an inch at the winter pruning. The leaders of each branch 
must be shortened back yearly to 8 or 9 inches, until a suflSciently 
large bush is produced, when they may be closely stopped like the side 
shoots. The secret of maintaining fruitfulness is to regularly pinch the 
side growths in the summer to six leaves, thus admitting light and air 
into the interior, and concentrating the sap on a few buds. Apply surface 
dressings of rich manure to the soil in the winter, and copious supplies 
of liquid manure in the summer. 
Old Currant Bushes. —Those with thick main branches, spurless 
at the base and upwards to a great extent, ought not to be tolerated 
for long without some attempt being made to renew their vigour by 
originating new shoots, cutting the old ones away. This can easily 
be done by selecting a strong growth, either from the base of such above 
or below the ground line, or a prominent sucker springing up in a suit¬ 
able position. Very old and fungus-stricken bushes should be discarded, 
grubbing up and burning them, then the ground must be deeply dug, 
sweetened, and enriched before planting young vigorous trees. 
Black Currants.— Similar treatment to that given to Red and 
White Currants in every respect, except pruning, is accorded to these. 
The fruit is produced on young strong wood, the best of which ought 
yearly to be retained nearly at full length, and the old bearing wood 
cut away, avoiding crowding in any part. Bushes are mostly grown 
without any visible main stem, suckers springing up freely and forming 
the fruitful growths during the second year of their existence. Those 
with a portion of clear stem above ground do not produce suckers, but 
young growth is encouraged from the lower branches. 
Pruning: Dwarf Apple Trees,— Young dwarf trees must have 
the growth freely thinned and regulated to induce shapeliness, the main 
shoots left not closely shortened but pruned back about one-third to 
where firm wood obtains. In most cases an outward pointing bud will 
be the best to prune to, though note should be made of the spaces 
required to be filled, and prune accordingly. Vacant parts of the trees 
may eventually be occupied with growth by shortening a suitable shoot 
rather closely—say, four to six buds, to induce a more vigorous extension. 
Side shoots on the principal branches shorten to three buds. These will 
develop into fruit buds. 
Pyramid Apples and Pears. —Endeavour to have the branches 
of pyramids a foot asunder. In the summer light and air will then 
reach the base of each. Thin out the spurs if crowded, and shorten the 
elongated portions, endeavouring to have each branch a cordon, clothed 
with short spurs ot a fruitful character. 
Apple and Pear Trees on Walls. —Treat these on the same 
lines, especially thinning out the branches if much less than a foot 
asunder, as it is impossible to keep spurs close to the wall if this 
precaution is neglected. Light is so essential that they must have ready 
access to it, or they will grow out to seek it, and in doing so the spurs 
below are shaded to an undue extent, so much so sometimes as to cause 
the lower branches to become permanently barren and weakened. 
Cordon Trees.— These suffer from having the branches crowded if 
such were not trained at the proper distances in the first instance, or in 
the case of single-stemmed cordons not planted wide enough apart. 
They can, moreover, be crowded too much with spur growth by 
injudicious methods ot treatment. To leave the foreright shoots 
unstopped in the summer is a practice which prevents fruit buds 
forming freely. The necessity which then follows for cutting this 
amount of superfluous wood hard back invariably results in still stronger 
woody growth. All the pruning that ought to be necessary now is the 
shortening of the previously restricted side growths to a few buds, 
training in the leading growths at full length, unless the space to be 
covered is already filled, when of course close stopping must be done. 
FRUIT FORCING. 
Vines. —Early Forced Vines in Pci#.—Although it is desirable 
to thin the berries somewhat freely it is essential that enough be left to 
form compact bunches. The temperature should be maintained at 65° 
at night, falling to 60° on cold mornings, 65° to 70° by day, admitting 
air at 75°, increasing the temperature with sun heat to 80° or 85°, 
closing the house at 80° with a prospect of an advance to 85° or 90°, at 
the same time damping the house. Sprinkle all surfaces in the morning 
and in the evening when sharp firing is had recourse to, but avoid 
creating la steam. Great care is necessary in ventilating, admitting a 
little air at a time so as not to reduce the temperature but to prevent 
its rising suddenly to an unsafe point. Afford copious supplies of 
liquid manure a few degrees warmer than the mean temperature of the 
house. 
Early Forced Planted o^lt Vines .—Remove all duplicate bunches, 
thinning the berries immediately they are well formed. Give attention 
to tying the shoots and stopping the laterals. It is assumed that the 
shoots have been stopped two or three joints beyond the fruit. Where 
the space is restricted they may be pinched to one joint or at the 
bunch. In any case the axillary growths may be stopped at the first 
leaf and to one joint afterwards, as fresh growth is made. If this is 
likely to interfere with the principal leaves the laterals may be rubbed 
off, except from the two lowest leaves, those on a level with and above 
the fruit being stopped to one joint. It is of the utmost importance 
that the principal foliage bo fully exposed to light and air, over¬ 
crowding being highly prejudicial; at the same time very close stopping 
is not to be recommended where there is room for extension, as an 
increase of foliage promotes root action, therefore preserve all foliage 
consistent with its full exposure to light. If there are no evapora¬ 
tion troughs or fermenting materials in the house the floors and 
borders may be sprinkled with diluted stable drainings or liquid made 
by placing 1 lb. of guano in a tiffany bag and putting it in 16 gallons 
of water to dissolve, stirring before use so as to leave nothing in the 
bag but the insoluble particles. This will prevent the rose of the 
watering pot getting clogged, and 3 gallons of the liquid suffices for 
sprinkling a square rod of path or borders. 
Where results are of more consequence than general appearance 
the whole of the outside border may be surfaced with thoroughly- 
sweetened horse droppings, which should be turned over several times 
before it is introduced, or the ammonia will be too strong for the tender 
foliage. This must be guarded against by admitting a little air by the 
top lights to allow any excess of steam to pass off, as it will in a day or 
two. The inside border should have a good supply of tepid water when 
needed. This passing through the mulching will incite root activity, 
and with the leaves in good condition the berries will swell freely. The 
heat of fermenting materials on outside borders must not be allowed to 
decline, but should be renewed as required. Where no fermenting 
materials are employed prevent the roots in outside borders becoming 
chilled, having a tarpaulin or other waterproof material so disposed 
temporarily as to throw off the rain or melted snow. 
Houses in which Vines are in bloom should have a steady night 
temperature of 65° maintained, 70° to 75° by day artificially, and 5° to 
10° more from sun heat; Muscats 5° higher all round. Black Muscat 
and even Madresfield Court, also Muscat of Alexandria and other varie¬ 
ties liable to set indifferently, may be assisted by tapping the bunches 
every day, or more certainly by applying ripe pollen, drawing a brush 
lightly over the bunches. A constant circulation of dry warm air is 
