86 
JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 
February 1, 1894. 
FERNS ON WALLS. 
No matter how well plants may be grown or tastefully arranged, 
they will do no one full credit if the background and surroundings 
are bare whitewashed walls. One frequently notices inquiries for 
plants that will thrive on dark shady walls in greenhouses and con¬ 
servatories ; but there are few of the usual creepers and pillar 
plants that will prove satisfactory for any length of time in such 
situations, especially, as is often the case, when they are overhung 
with creepers from the roof. Asparagus plumosus does admirably 
for the purpose if planted in a well-prepared border in an inter¬ 
mediate house. Ficus repens is suited for a cool house ; but if 
the wall is lofty it develops into the major form and loses its close 
clinging character. 
Unsightly walls can often be made the most useful and pic¬ 
turesque objects in the house by means of virgin cork and a 
careful selection of Ferns. Ferns for cutting are required in great 
abundance in most places, and when grown on walls the fronds 
are far more durable, in consequence of their getting more light 
and air than when cultivated in pots at a great distance from the 
glass. Previous to nailing the cork on the walls the kind of Ferns 
intended to be grown should be decided upon, so as to make 
adequate provision for their continued growth. Davallias are well 
adapted for this mode of culture, and are never more at home 
than when growing on corked walls. They will thrive with less 
■•soil than most Ferns, hence only small pockets need be made for 
them as starting points. When covering the wall with cork for 
these Ferns a good layer of clean sphagnum moss should be placed 
^between the wall and cork and the pieces of former must not be 
fitted too closely, but allow the moss to fill up the interstices. 
This will be found useful to peg the rhizomes into, and they will 
root into the sphagnum and derive moisture and support from 
jit. Unless the house can be kept close and a moist atmosphere 
maintained until the plants begin to grow it is best to establish 
them either in small pots or moss before planting them on the 
walls. 
Each pocket for the Davallias should hold about one pint of 
'<3ompost of two parts half-decayed leaf mould or peat and one 
part each of silver sand and light fibrous loam with a little 
chopped sphagnum and charcoal. Of course the closer the pockets 
are together the quicker the wall will be covered, but a good 
distance to arrange them is from 12 inches to 15 inches asunder, and 
previous to planting they must be well drained with potsherds in 
the same way as for pot culture. In selecting the varieties due 
regard must be paid to the minimum temperature of the house, 
as many species of Davallia will not thrive in a cold house, but 
most of the greenhouse species will luxuriate in the hothouse. In 
•a warm conservatory, where the temperature does not fall below 
40“ in winter, we find the following kinds thrive on walls ;— 
Davallia dissecta, D. dissecta elegans, D. decora, D. bullata, 
D. canariensis, D. Tyermani, D. Griffithiana and D. novse- 
^zealandise. The first-named is by far the best for covering the 
wall quickly, but D. bullata, being deciduous, should be used 
^sparingly. For covering walls in a temperature lower than 40“ 
but above 32“, Drynaria pustulata is unique and may be treated 
as advised for Davallia. In its young state the fronds are 
undivided, but as it becomes established it throws out deeply 
ipinnatifid fronds and will quickly cover a wall with a mass 
•of rich dark green. It will thrive in a dense shade, but the fronds 
are of little value for cutting purposes. 
The elegant and useful Maidenhair Ferns may also be grown 
on walls and pillars, but being for the most part stationary the 
sphagnum can be omitted between the wall and cork, although 
even these would be materially benefited by its use, owing to its 
property of holding and giving off moisture. For these, and all 
other Ferns that do not send out and root from rhizomes, larger 
pockets must be provided, and adequate means be secured for 
supplying them with water ; but these must vary to meet the 
constitutional requirements of the plants, for if we put a weak 
growing variety in a large pocket failure and disappointment will 
follow. Adiantum cuneatum, when grown towards the top of the 
wall, assumes that rigid texture, pale green colour, small pinnm, 
and compact frond so much appreciated by ladies, and which indi¬ 
cates its lasting properties in a cut state, A beautiful effect is 
produced by covering a wall with cork and arranging pockets 
to hold from 2 to 3 pints of compost at 18 inches asunder, and 
planting them with strong plants of Adiantum cuneatum with 
other varieties of medium growth ; also an equal number of small 
pockets arranged between them and planted with Davallias. 
Adiantum assimile is well adapted for this mode of culture, for 
which the space between the wall and cork should be filled with 
sphagnum or peat, as its rhizomes travel behind the cork, and the 
fronds are produced from every crevice. This is also one of the 
most beautiful Ferns for baskets, as it completely covers the 
bottom, sides,and top. Adiantumgracillimum never shows to such 
advantage as when grown in large pockets on a corked wall ; its 
beautiful fine fronds fall over the edges of the pockets, and are 
thus prevented becoming entangled with each other as when grown 
in pots. 
A good finish is given to the wall by forming a trough 18 inches 
from the top by fixing 11-inch boards at an angle of 45°. Cover 
the boards with cork on the outside and along the top edge 
previous to fixing. They are easily fixed by driving spike nails 
about three parts of their length into the wall, and 3 feet asunder. 
The lower edge of the board rests on these spikes, and the top 
edge is secured to the wall at the proper angle by means of hoop 
iron, with two holes punched at each end, and bent at sufficient 
angles to allow of its being nailed to the wall and over the top 
edge of the board. The trough must be well drained, and should 
be filled to within 2 inches of the top with three parts fibrous 
loam of medium texture, and one part sand. All the Adiantums 
and Pterises of moderate growth may be planted in these troughs, 
and they will produce fronds of unusually stout texture and 
great endurance. It is surprising the amount of direct sunshine 
and exposure these Ferns will bear, and eyen enjoy, when grown 
near the glass in this manner, and in the soil recommended ; but 
if much leaf mould or peat be used they will not thrive in this 
position, the growth being too thin and flimsy. More could be 
written in favour of this delightful way of growing Ferns, but 
enough has been said to suggest to the ingenious how best to trans¬ 
form the unsightly into the beautiful.—J. H. W., Leicester. 
GARDEN WALKS AND EDGINGS. 
In many gardens those great aids to comfort and convenience— 
to say nothing of appearance—good walks, are the exception, not the 
rule. More particularly is this the case in kitchen gardens, where 
one much too frequently can see crooked, ragged, and gappy edgings 
feebly defining moss-grown, weedy, and untidy walks, the latter 
unpleasant to the foot, and both unsightly to view. 
No matter how highly cultivated and luxuriant the crops may 
appear to be, the whole effect is marred if they are surrounded or 
margined by faulty walks and edgings. Isiothing seems to compensate 
for inattention to and neglect of these important adjuncts to a 
garden. Various kinds of edgings are used for walks. Box used to 
be almost universally employed for this purpose, and is now to some 
extent ; where it does well, and time and attention can be given 
to keep it in good order by annually clipping and periodically relay¬ 
ing it, not much can be said against its use beyond the fact that it 
is impossible to apply any of those labour-saving aids, weed 
destroyers, in anything like close proximity to it. Salt, which some 
still use on walks to destroy weeds and moss, is equally detrimental 
to its well-being. 
Where Box edgings have become overgrown and neglected, 
affording a fine harbour for snails and slugs, they ought, on the first 
favouraWe opportunity, to be taken up and relaid, or, perhaps better 
still, burnt. The condition in which Box edgings are seen in some 
instances makes one sigh for a well-conducted fire. 1 hold the 
opinion that Box is not a good edging fur kitchen garden walks, for 
reasons that may be gathered from what I have above stated. I 
discarded it many years ago, substituting, as an edging, a locally 
quarried stone, similar to, but rather thicker than the “ tile stones 
used for roofing dwellings in many parts of the country. 
These stones are roughly squared, and dressed on the upper side 
with a mason’s hammer, and the ground having been levelled and 
lined out, stakes or pegs placed at proper distances, and at the exact 
height required for the edging above ground, the stones can be 
put in with accuracy, inserting them sufficiently deep to give the 
requisite firmness, and prevent upheaval by frost. Two handy 
labourers will put in many yards of this edging in a day, and, 
when thoroughly well done and rammed firm, no better can be 
desired ; moreover, it is one that will give no further trouble, ordinary 
care being taken when digging not to disturb or loosen the stones. 
Having put in, from first to last, more than a mile in length of such 
edging, I find the saving of labour, as contrasted with the keeping of 
Box, grass, and other edgings in condition, very considerable indeed, 
and the neat and tidy appearance attract the most ordinary 
observer. 
Glazed earthenware tiles are much used in small gardens, but by 
some persons are objected to on account of the formal appearance 
ihey present when used in long lines, otherwise they are most suit¬ 
able and clean, affording no harbour for slugs. But where a “ dead 
edging,” as some term it, is objected to for the principal walks. Box 
had better be used. Some use the common white Pink as an edging ; 
it looks well and the flowers are useful for cutting. Parsley makes 
