FebruRry 8, 1894. 
JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER, 
105 
extraordinary result, that though the parent had not a trace of cresting 
about it, all but two of the plants out of a batch of over a hundred were 
heavily tasselled. Most of them were irregular, and hence worthless ; 
but one was perfect, and of such beauty as to merit the name given of 
A. f.-t. plumosum superbum. This, besides being very finely divided, 
was finely and symmetrically tasselled at all terminals. While yet 
small a few spores were produced, and of course sown, in this case 
producing some 120 plants, of which, though no two were quite 
identical in form, all were perfect, and some superior to anything 
previously seen. About 50 per cent, of these were uncrested, while the 
rest ranged through all grades of tasselling. Altogether some ten or 
twelve quite new plumose forms were selected, one uncrested form, 
A, f.-f. plumosum Drueryi, proving far and away the finest plumose 
Fern ever beheld, being of robust habit, and five times divided (quinque- 
pinnate). This Fern was adjudged to be the best variety exhibited at 
Chiswick in 1892. Among the crested section A. f.-f. superbum 
percristatum stands unrivalled, even the pinnules fanning out into wide 
fimbriate crests. In this case we see what may await the Fern lover 
when he goes in for selective culture through the spores. Space, how¬ 
ever, precludes further dalliance with this theme, and I will therefore 
conclude my article by mentioning a few of the forms more worthy of 
attention, prefacing this with the remark that as regards culture the 
Lady Fern is one of the least dainty of Ferns, a good leafy compost and 
care in watering securing success. 
The best of the plumose forms areas above. Of the crested or tasselled 
section the best are A. f.-f. acrocladon, already described; corym- 
biferum (^James'), Elworthi, cristatum, multifidum, digitatum, percris¬ 
tatum (_Couse7is'), regale, setigerum cristatum. Of the dwarf and 
congested type should be acquired A, f.-f. Edwardsi, crispum, Grantm, 
Findlayanum, congestum (^Phillips), Frizellise ramosum. Among the 
cruciate forms, or those in which the side divisions are set on in pairs 
or clusters, there are many raised under culture which are not to be 
recommended, the grace of the Fern proper being quite lost. This is, 
however, by no means the case in the following—A. f.-f. Victorise, 
unique and unsurpassed ; A. f.-f. Fieldim, A. f.-f. Frizelliae, A. f.-f. 
Pritchardi and Pulleri. Other charming forms which come under no 
special class, but are none the less distinct, are A. f.-f. Vernoniae, A. f.-f. 
V. cristatum and corymbiferum, A. f.-f, setigerum, A. f.-f. Girdlestonei, 
A. f.-f, conioides, A. f.-f. todeoides, A. f.-f. revolvens. A, f.-f. pulcher- 
rimum, and A. f.-f. rectangulare. 
A word of warning must be given to those who have to cultivate 
these Ferns under the uncongenial conditions of a dry climate or 
exposed position, that many of the best and most beautiful forms can 
scarcely be fairly dealt with in the open, the wind and other adverse 
influences detracting much from their delicacy of appearance. In the 
shady portions of a cold greenhouse the best of them would well repay 
the room allotted to them during the summer, while during the winter, 
when they die down, they can be plunged outside without fear of 
damage. It is not good to coddle them with warmth, they neither need 
nor appreciate it, the varieties being as absolutely hardy as the normal 
forms,— Chas. T, Drueey, F.L.S., F.R.H.S. 
(To be continued.) 
CULTURE OF BOUVARDIAS. 
The failure to grow good specimens of Bouvardias is undoubtedly 
due in the majority of cases to too much coddling and insufficient 
stopping, many persons being under the impression that the plants 
require a high temperature to grow them well. This is an erroneous idea. 
True, the cuttings require a little bottom heat to root them in, with 
a temperature of about 60° for a few weeks afterwards, but after that 
time to the middle or end of September a cold frame is sufficient. Many 
growers plant Bouvardias out during the summer months, lifting them 
again in the early autumn, and very good results are thus obtained ; but 
spring-rooted plants should not be so treated the first year. 
The propagation of these plants should not be delayed beyond the 
end of February or beginning of March. Old plants that have done 
flowering will, if cut hard back and placed in a warm house, and kept 
well syringed, speedily produce splendid wood for rooting. When the 
cuttings are about 2 inches long insert them in pots previously filled 
with light sandy soil to within a quarter of an inch of the rims, and 
over which a thin layer of clean sand has been placed. Then plunge in 
bottom heat and keep close until signs of growth commence. During 
the process of rooting avoid a too humid atmosphere, or the cuttings 
will damp. See that the bell-glasses or hand-lights are daily wiped 
on the inside, and when the cuttings are rooted place them singly into 
thumb pots. Put in a warm house near the glass, shade for a few days, 
and when freely started into growth pinch out the point of each plant. 
Repot as may be required, using a compost of four parts rough fibry 
loam, one part leaf soil, and one part coarse sand. By the time the 
plants are in 54’s or IS’s they should be removed to a cold frame. 
Keep close for a day or two, then gradually harden, and on every 
favourable occasion remove the lights, especially during the warm 
nights of summer and early autumn. This treatment will strengthen 
the plants considerably. 
Plants not required for producing cuttings may be started any time 
during March or April, and when about half an inch of growth has 
been made, shake them out and replace in smaller sized pots. When 
fairly started into growth pinch hard back, and remove to a house or pit 
where a temperature of 50° to 60° is maintained. Keep them here for 
a time, afterwards removing to cold frame, and treat as before stated. 
If the plants are required for autumn and winter flowering keep them 
well stopped back until the middle or end of July. Many varieties will 
bear stopping at every pair of leaves, but the condition of each plant 
must be somewhat of a guide to the cultivator. Good drainage is essential, 
though never allow the plants to suffer from want of moisture, or they 
will fall an easy prey to red spider and thrip. 
Remove to a light airy house during September, and maintain a 
temperature of about 55°; an abundance of bloom will then soon be 
forthcoming. Alfred Neuner, double white ; President Garfield, double 
pink ; Priory Beauty, pale pink ; President Cleveland, dazzling scarlet, 
Vreelandi, pure white ; and many other good reliable varieties will 
repay the grower where cut flowers are in demand, and especially so 
with the sweet-scented varieties.— Hedley Wabben. 
RAISING BEGONIAS FROM SEED. 
As the Tuberous Begonia has become so popular, not only for the 
embellishment of the conservatory and greenhouse, but also for bedding 
purposes—in which capacity it can at present hold its own against most 
comers—a few remarks concerning the raising of plants successfully 
from seed may not be inappropriate. 
The complaint is constantly heard of failure in getting the seed to 
germinate satisfactorily, and in nine cases out of ten the blame is laid to 
the seeds, and not, as it should be, to the methods employed in attempts 
to raise seedlings. It is quite appalling in many instances to see how 
carelessly these fine seeds are sown and left to the mercy of chance. 
This is not as it should be, for without due care, no matter what the 
object in view may be, the best results cannot be oocained.^ Failure 
would often be averted and success achieved if a little more^ time vvere 
bestowed on the practice of trifles and the mastering of seemingly slight 
details. 
Many persons fail to obtain Begonia seedlings through covering the 
extremely small seed. This practice is fatal to success. Others who 
sow on the surface and do not cover the seed fail to give proper attention 
to watering. They appear to think that it is only necessary to give the 
soil a thorough soaking previous to or directly after sowing, and then 
withhold water until the seedlings appear. In some instances this 
method is found to answer, but in many cases, owing to the surround¬ 
ings, or the weather prevailing at the time, the soil becomes dry just as 
the seeds are germinating, when through lack of sufficient moisture they 
quickly perish. The following method has been found to give highly 
satisfactory results, and may therefore be worthy of trial by persons 
who have hitherto failed to raise the coveted seedlings. 
According to the amount of seed to be sown, procure pots, pans, or 
boxes, but in most cases the latter are preferable, as they allow of a 
thinner distribution of the seed. Overcrowding of the seedlings is thus 
prevented, which in itself is a great preventive to damping. The drain¬ 
age must be thorough; quite a half of the space should be filled with 
coarse crocks, and these covered with a layer of finer ones, placing on 
these a little moss or dry leaves, from which all worms or other enemies 
have been driven. Then fill to within a slight distance of the top with 
the following compost—loam, leaf mould, and sand in about equal pro¬ 
portions, thoroughly mixed and passed through a half-inch sieve. _ Make 
the surface level, and then sift a little of the same compost, with the 
addition of a sprinkling more of sand, through a very fine sieve, sufiScient 
to cover the whole to the depth of a quarter of an inch. This must be' 
made perfectly smooth, which can easily be done by gently pressing 
with a piece of board or similar material. 
Upon this surface sow the seed as evenly as possible, and give a 
thorough watering through a very fine rose, taking care that the water 
is only applied as fast as the soil absorbs it, otherwise there is danger of 
the seed being run into patches. After sowing, cover the boxes with 
sheets of glass, and place in a temperature ranging from 60° to 70°. 
The glass must be sponged dry every morning to prevent the condensed 
moisture falling into the soil and making holes. About five days from 
the date of sowing water will be needed if the soil is in the least degrea 
dry. That date is very suitable for watering, as germination is usually 
apparent from the sixth day onwards. If this stage is successful?^, 
passed the rest is generally found to be easily accomplished. ^ 
When the seedlings are commencing to show their third leaf, the 
first rough one as it is generally called, they should be removed to 
another house where a slightly lower temperature (60°) prevails, and 
placed close to the glass, which will be conducive to a sturdy growth. 
This cannot be over-estimated, for if the seedlings are drawn up weakly 
many of them perish when pricked out, and any time gained at the 
start will thereby be doubly lost. When the seedlings have a leaf the 
size of a threepenny piece, carefully prick them out an inch asunder, 
using for compost the same as that advised for sowing, with the addition 
of a little more leaf soil. Keep in a temperature of 60° to 65° with sun 
heat, affording protection from bright sunshine until they touch each 
other, when remove to cooler quarters. At this stage shift to larger 
boxes, using a compost of loam two parts, leaf mould, and well decayed 
manure in equal proportions, one part, and a little sand. 
Immediately the plants have become established, and all danger of 
frost past, remove them to cold frames to harden previous to planting 
out. If the seed be sown the first or second week in February, and 
the plants grown as above advised, they will be in good condition for 
bedding out purposes by the middle of June, or earlier, should the 
season be favourable for planting out before that date.— Sassenach. 
