JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 
February 8,1894. 
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grandifloram, bearing compact clusters of flowers that are ros^'-flesh 
coloured on the outside and white or pinky-white within. 
“ R. speciosum.—Fuchsia-flowered Gooseberry. California, 1829. A 
Californian species, remarkable for being more or less spiny, and with 
flowers resembling some of the Fuchsias. They are crimson, and 
with long, protruding stamens. As a wall plant, where it often rises 
to 6 feet in height, this pretty and taking species is most often seen. 
“The Flowering Currants are of unusually free growth, and are not 
at all particular about soil, often thriving well in that of a very 
poor description. They are increased readily from cuttings and by 
layers.” 
But why does Mr. Webster ignore such genera as Hedera, Cissus, 
and Ampelopsis, and give the two Periwinkles ? There are some very 
beautiful Ivies in cultivation that might well find a place in such a 
work, but the genus is not even named. We observe some typographical 
errors, which rather blemish a work which is otherwise remarkably 
well done—as for instance, Ailanthus for Ailantus, Symphoria racemosus 
for S. racemosa. The blemishes, however, are not very numerous, and 
may be removed by careful editing when a new edition is called for. 
No doubt many readers would be glad to sec a chapter on the appro¬ 
priate grouping and tasteful arrangement of shrubs, also practical 
hints on pruning and general management, which the author could well 
supply. 
The flowering seasons of trees and shrubs are given, and the compact 
little work, of some 150 pages, is enhanced in value by a good index. 
It is published at the “Gardening World” office, 1, Clement’s Inn, 
Strand, AV.C. _ 
A BOOK of a very different character has been sent to us, and we 
acknowledge it here. It is by no means a new book, but it will be new 
to many persons who enjoy readable matter on trees. It is entitled the 
“ Uses and Beauties of Trees,” is written by Mr. John Wilson, Leazes 
Park, Newcastle-on-Tyne, and published by Mr. J. M. Carr of that city. 
The writer was evidently in love with his subject, and gives much 
historical information, also embodies poetical allusions to the trees on 
which he treats. Several of the botanical names would have been 
presented a little differently had the proof sheets been revised by an 
expert in nomenclature. It is creditable to a park-keeper to have 
written the interesting book. 
WQKK.fo^ItheWEEK.. 
HARDY FRUIT GARDEN. 
Apricots. —Utilise every favourable opportunity to overhaul the 
trees on walls, first unloosening them, then cutting out old bare wood, 
its place being taken by the best of the younger branches, selecting 
those, if possible, that originate from the lower parts. The readjust¬ 
ment of Apricot trees ought to be done annually, removing any ill- 
placed or unsatisfactory branches before they grow too large and thick. 
This obviates the evil effects of gumming, which almost certainly 
follows when large strong limbs are amputated. It also ensures the 
better furnishing of trees with young vigorous wood, equalises the flow 
of sap, and maintains fertility over a longer period. 
Pruning. — Extreme measures in pruning are ill-adapted to the 
Apricot, the most successful results following when pruning can be 
reduced to a minimum. Aprieots bear freely on well-ripened shoots 
of the previous year, also on spurs formed by shortening back shoots not 
wanted for extension or furnishing young bearing wood. In addition to 
these spurs are also naturally formed, and wherever such are suitably 
placed they should be retained in preference to artificial spurs. The 
overcrowding of spurs should be avoided, and undue elongation of spur 
clusters prevented by judiciously shortening projecting portions either 
at the winter pruning or when the trees are examined after the fruit is 
gathered. The annual shoots reserved for bearing ought to have the 
immature points removed down to firm wood, being usually when 
thus shortened about a foot or 15 inches in length. Weak shoots cut in 
closer. Those reserved with the intention of originating new growth 
must also be pruned to a strong wood bud. 
Training. —The fan method of training admits of branches being 
easily secured to take the place of worn-out parts. In training shoots 
and branches to the wall allow them room in the ligatures for the wood 
to swell naturally. The material ought to be soft and pliable, bat 
strong, also clean and free from insect pests. Avoid injuring wood or 
shoots in the process of nailing and training, which must be finally 
completed before the flower buds swell. 
Feacbes and Nectarines.— Trees well managed in the summer in 
respect of disbudding and regulating the shoots, so as not to retain little 
more than are necessary for forming successional bearing shoots to take 
the place of those cut out in autumn after the fruit was gathered, ought 
not now to require severe pruning. 
Thinning Branches. —The bulk of the pruning and thinning, how¬ 
ever, is often left for the winter, and in this case the trees, if not already 
unloosened from the walls, ought to be detached at once, old and half 
exhausted wood cut out, together with a general thinning of some of 
the leading branches should these be crowded or extending too far. The 
longest may be shortened at a point which will admit of well situated 
side growths being laid in to fill up the space. To shorten strong 
branches back to the main stem is not advisable, especially with vigorous 
trees. Any of mediu.m strength or weakly will endure shortening to 
this extent if found necessary. The main object in the first preliminary 
thinning is to reduce the wood to a reasonable amount, so that when 
re-arranged on the walls it will not be unduly crowded. 
Pruning. —The next point is to cut away all the old bearing wood 
where it has not previously been removed, which will leave only the 
youngest shoots, termed successional growths, for nailing or tying in. 
These will be of various lengths and differ in vigour. Some may be 
strong and extra long, but if well ripened to the terminal bud they can 
be retained at full length. The majority of shoots, however, are not 
well ripened to the extreme tips, especially when the wood has been 
crowded, therefore it is essential that the immature portions be removed. 
In shortening such or any young growths which need reducing in 
length they must be pruned to a wood bud. If not to a single wood 
bud, a triple bud ought to be selected, a wood bud in this case being 
situated between two blossom buds. Shoots cut to a blossom bud 
invariably die back. It is important that all shoots when in bearing 
have a terminal growth, so that sap may be drawn to the fruit. Weak 
shoots if retained at all must be critically examined to ascertain whether 
the buds are all blossom buds or mixed with wood buds. If the former 
predominate it will not be wise to shorten at all if fruit is expected, as 
the terminal bud may be the only wood bud existing on the upper part 
of the shoot. When shortening leading shoots prune to a wood bud 
situated at the back of a shoot, so that growth resulting may be easily 
trained in the right direction. 
Training—’Fivs.t arrange the main branches equally over the wall 
surface, the subsidiary branches to be laid in between, the rest of the 
unoccupied space being filled in by disposing the bearing shoots 4 or 
5 inches asunder. After the main parts of strong branches are well 
secured avoid multiplying the number of shreds and nails more than 
is necessary in fastening the young shoots. Use cleans shreds and 
fresh nails. Do not place the latter too near the shoots, which need 
room to swell. 
Washing Walls and Trees —Previous to finally re-arranging the 
trees, the walls ought to be washed or syringed with hot water at a 
temperature of 140° to 160°. Fill up old nail holes with mortar and 
re-point blank spaces between the courses of bricks. As a dressing for 
the trees dissolve 1 lb. of softsoap in four gallons of hot water. Either 
syringe with this at a temperature of 120°. or brush the wood and 
shoots over with it. In applying it to the young wood work the brush 
upwards from the base. The buds are not then dislocated or injured, 
and the work is more readily done. Sulphur may be added to tbe 
solution at the rate of 4 oz. to each gallon. Some persons add clay and 
soot, bringing it to the consistency of thin paint, but the only 
advantage is the mixture marks the progress of the operation. Soft- 
soap solution alone, well worked into every hole, angle, and crevice of 
the wood, will reach and destroy all insects lurking therein. 
FRUIT FORCING. 
"Viaes,— Early Forced Houses. —The Vines in flower must have a 
temperature of 60° to 65° at night and 70° to 75° by day artificially. 
Keep the atmosphere somewhat drier by free ventilation, leaving a 
little air on at night, yet keeping the floors sprinkled three times a day 
during bright weather. Any shy-setting Grapes may have the pollen dis¬ 
tributed by brushing the bunches with a camel’s hair brush. Stop the 
laterals at the first leaf, and keep those pinched to one joint throughout 
the season, but those beyond the bunch may be allowed to make two or 
more joints before stopping them, provided there be space for the full 
exposure of the leaves to light. Avoid overcrowding the foliage ; it is 
better to reduce the laterals than do that. 
Houses Started at the New Year. —The Vines are in leaf and showing 
fruit. Disbud when it is seen which shoots are likely to afford the best 
bunches. One bunch on a spur is as much as is likely to finish satis¬ 
factorily, but, if there be space, two shoots may be left, it being clearly 
understood that only one is to be allowed to carry fruit, the duplicate 
only remaining until choice can be made of the best, and in case of two 
shoots being left one ought to be near the main rod, so as to keep the 
spur as short as possible. Weakly Vines, how'ever, may be given more 
latitude, so as to secure stouter wood, larger and plumper eyes, and better 
bunches in future. 
Houses to Afford Grapes in July and August. —The Vines must now 
be started. Damp the rods three times a day and every available surface. 
A temperature of 50° at night, 55° by day, and 65° from sun heat is 
suitable until the buds begin to move. Bring the inside border into a 
thoroughly moist state by repeated supplies of tepid water or liquid 
manure. Afford outside borders suflScient protection to prevent chill. 
Depress young canes to the horizontal line or lower to insure the eyes 
breaking evenly. 
Ripe Grapes. —Avoid fire heat as much as possible in the Grape 
room, admitting air to prevent an accumulation of moisture, replenishing 
the bottles with clear soft water as required. An equable temperature 
of 45° is most suitable. 
New Borders. —The soil for new borders should now be prepared, 
and the best for the purpose is the top 3 inches of a rich pasture of a 
friable nature, neither light nor very heavy. As that is not always 
