February 22,1894. 
JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 
155 
the shoots, stopping, and clearing them of old or deformed fruits. The 
thinning of the shoots and encouraging young in place of spent growth 
is the way to keep the plants in continuous bearing. Stop the growths 
a joint or two beyond the show of iruit, but avoid overcrowding. In 
securing the shoots to the trellis do not tie them too tightly, but allow 
room for development. Plants that have been in bearing for some time 
will be greatly benefited by removing a portion of the surface soil 
without injuring the roots, and supplying fresh warmed soil. Turfy 
loam, with a fourth of well-decayed manure, and a 9-inch potful of 
wood ashes, also half that quantity each of soot and superphosphate 
added to each barrowful of loam, will answer ; or turfy loam alone may 
be used, sprinkling over it a good handful—3 or 4 ozs.—of the following 
mixture per square yard. Bone superphosphate three parts, powdered 
saltpetre two parts, ground gypsum one part ; mix and keep in a dry 
place. Maintain the bottom heat steadily at 80°, the night temperature 
at 65° to 70°, 5° less in severe weather, 70° to 75° by day, rising to 80° 
to 85° from sun, and closing early in the afternoon, so as to run up to 90°, 
9.5°, or 100°, damping the paths and other surfaces in the morning and 
early in the afternoon. If the surfaces are dry damp well before 
nightfall. 
For young plants hillocks or ridges should be formed, preferably the 
latter, the whole length of the bed, about 2 feet wide at the base, with 
the top flattened, so as to give a depth of 10 to 12 inches, the soil being 
made moderately firm, and when warm the plants may be turned out, 
firming the soil about the balls, and raising it a little over the depth 
the plants were before, but not very much, as this is liable to induce 
canker ; yet the soil may be brought up as high as roots show on the 
stem. We find nothing better for Cucumbers than good turfy loam, 
laid up sufficiently long to destroy the herbage, mixing with every 
bushel a quart of wood ashes and a pint each of quicklime and dry 
soot, incorporating well. These substances have an effect on larvse 
likely to injure the plants, and enrich the soil. Plants for trellises 
should be trained with a single stem secured to a stick tied to the lowest 
wire of the trellis, rubbing off the laterals as they appear until the 
height of the trellis is reached. 
In pits and frames with the shoots trained over the surface of the 
beds, the plants should be stopped at the second rough leaf, and the 
resultant growths at about every foot of extension. This will give 
plenty of shoots for bearing, which must not be crowded, and should 
be stopped at a joint or two beyond the show for fruit. Afford the 
temperature advised for older plants. If the sun be powerful, and the 
plants show indications of flagging, shade for a few days. Attend to 
manure-heated frames for linings as required, protecting with a double 
thickness of mats at night. Do not apply more water than is necessary 
to keep the plants gently growing, very little being required in pits or 
frames where the heat is derived from fermenting materials. 
In houses where red spider has appeared on the winter fruiting plants 
coat the hot-water pipes with sulphur and lime in equal parts, formed 
into cream with water, heating the pipes to as near boiling point as 
possible for a couple of hours on a calm evening, taking care that the 
house is not more than 80° to 85° ; still it must be kept close, and then 
allow the pipes and house to cool down to their regular temperature. 
The foliage must be thoroughly dry. The same process maybe repeated 
in the course of a few days ; it is generally effectual against white fly, 
thrips, and mildew, as well as red spider. 
THE FLOWER GARDEN. 
Acacia lopbantba. —This species is very effective in mixed beds 
of fine-foliaged and flowering plants, and is suitable for dotting among 
tuberous Begonias. Quite young plants are the best, and these can be 
raised from seed in time for bedding out next June. The seeds are very 
hard, and unless softened prior to sowing are a long time in germinating, 
not unfrequently failing to do so altogether. Place the seeds in a bottle 
or jar of water, and either plunge this in a brisk hotbed or set in an 
evaporating trough over hot-water pipes. Not till the seeds are swollen 
considerably should they be taken out of the water, placed in a pan of 
well warmed moist soil, and then given the benefit of a fairly strong 
bottom heat. Seedlings should be taken out singly with a label and 
placed in small pots, according as they are large enough to move safely. 
Cannas.— These also can be raised from seed, though seedlings 
should not be depended upon where large masses of plants are wanted. 
Seedlings are very handy for dot plants or for using nearer the fronts of 
large mixed beds. The value of the large flowering varieties should not 
be lost sight of, a packet of seed of Crozy’s hybrids giving several very 
handsome varieties of a sturdy habit of growth. These will bloom in 
the open, and if carefully lifted and potted in the autumn before frosts 
cripple them they will flower in a warm greenhouse or w'ell heated 
conservatory for several weeks longer. The seeds of these are very hard, 
and require to be treated exactly the same as recommended in the case 
of Acacia lophantha. Germination is usually irregular, therefore lift the 
forwardest seedlings carefully out of the pans when about 2 inches 
high, disturbing the soil as little as possible, and more plants may then 
be had. 
Erythrlna Crlsta-galll.— Large old plants grouped in a bed, or 
interspersed among other sub-tropical plants, are very attractive when in 
full bloom. At present stock plants ought to be kept cool and some¬ 
what dry. Next month they may be cut back rather hard, shaking the 
roots clear of old soil, and repotting following when the plants are 
breaking afresh. Seedlings raised early this spring could be grown to a 
good size in time for planting out, these flowering the same season, and 
would prove most serviceable for the following year. Soak the seeds 
before sowing, and otherwise treat as advised in the case of Acacias and 
Gannas. 
Ficus elastlca.— This is a somewhat heavy plant for the flower 
garden, but is yet freely used, especially in town gardens. It is of 
rather slow growth, and should be at least 15 inches high, and well 
furnished with leaves down to the ground when bedded out. Old stems 
may be cut into as many cuttings as there are leaves, the latter being 
preserved and supported with a small stake when the cuttings or eyes 
are fixed in a pan of peaty soil. If given the benefit of a brisk bottom 
heat most of the cuttings will root, and eventually develop into neat 
plants. The tops of the plants should be saved to a length of 9 inches, 
and only the two lower leaves cut off. These will root either in 
bottles of water or placed singly in small pots, plunging these in a brisk 
heat, and good plants for the flower beds will result. 
Grevlllea robusta. —For’ small beds this year’s seedlings will be 
large enough, and they would present an elegant appearance dotted 
among showy plants of neat growth. At the end of the season they 
could be lifted and used for house and conservatory decoration during 
the winter, again doing good service in the larger beds the following 
summer. The seeds will not require to be soaked in water, but should 
be sown at once in a pan of peaty soil and plunged in a brisk hotbed, 
covering with a square of glass and keeping uniformly moist. Some¬ 
times the seed germinates quickly, at other times it is very slow, and 
the soil should not, therefore, be hurriedly broken up. The seedlings 
should be placed in a small pot at first, and kept growing in gentle 
heat, giving a shift into large pots before they become root-bound. 
Eucalyptus g-lobulosus. —This is better known as the Blue Gum 
tree, and in addition to being fairly ornamental, is also supposed to be 
of good service as an anti-malarial plant. It is of very rapid growth, 
and plants can be grown to a height of 6 feet or more within seven 
months of the time of sowing the seed. Two other species, B. citrio- 
dora, this having lemon-scented glaucous leaves, and E. coccifera can 
also be raised from seed, and are fairly effective in the sub-tropical 
garden, all withstanding a moderately severe frost. Seed germinates 
readily enough, and this and seedlings should be treated much as advised 
for Grevillea robusta. 
Cbamsepeuce. —Of these the silvery leaved C. diacantha is the 
most attractive, though the green-leaved C. Casabonse is also effective. 
Both are raised from seeds, which should be sown now in order to have 
plants strong enough for bedding out in June. Sow in pans of peaty 
soil, set on or plunge in hotbed, cover with squares of glass, and darken 
till the seedlings appear, when the pans should be placed on a shelf, still 
in heat, till the seedlings are strong enough to transfer singly into 
2^-inch pots. 
Hollybocks. —Seedlings are less liable to be crippled by disease 
than are choice or named varieties raised from cuttings. In order to 
be certain of the former flowering next summer the plants must be 
raised early, and be well established in 6-inch pots before finally 
planting out. The seed germinates very quickly in a brisk heat, and 
the pans containing the seedlings should be kept well up to the glass 
in order to keep the young plants sturdy. Pot singly when in rough 
leaf, and give a shift before transferring to cooler quarters. 
Verbenas. —Seedlings are effective enough in mixed beds, and 
are far more likely to do well than are plants raised from cuttings. 
Sometimes the seed germinates very quickly, and occasionally it is a 
long while in doing so. Sow at once in pans of light soil, and treat 
as advised for Grevillea robusta, pricking out the seedlings in pans or 
boxes of good loamy soil when large enough to handle. By raising 
them early it will be possible to root the tops of the seedlings, and 
thus double the stock of plants. 
Sweet Peas. —These are of such good service for affording cut 
bloom that early plants should be raised under glass and duly turned 
out into the open. If five or six seeds of the choicer varieties are 
sown in each 3-inch pot filled with good loamy soil, and are then 
placed in a warm house, all will germinate strongly. The plants ought 
not to be kept in heat long enough to draw them up weakly, but should 
be placed in cooler quarters to harden off prior to planting out. Each 
single pot of plants is sufficient to form the foundation of a large 
group, and will most probably surpass any raised in the open ground. 
PLANT HOUSES. 
Erica by emails. —All plants that have done flowering should be 
cut back, so that they can start into growth for another season. When 
they have made young shoots about an inch in length place in larger 
pots. In potting, good peat and coarse sand should be used ; remove the 
old drainage only from the balls, and do not disturb the plants further. 
The fresh soil must be pressed firmly round the old ball. After potting 
stand the plants on ashes in the greenhouse, or in pits where frost can 
be excluded and abundance of air given. If the ashes are kept moist 
and the pots are syringed occasionally, the plants will not need water 
for at least ten days, provided the old ball was in a suitable state for 
moisture when potted. The longer they can be kept without water after 
potting the better. 
Hardwooded Varieties. —Staking and tying should be completed 
as early as possible, and do not use more stakes than absolutely necessary. 
Any stakes that have decayed and any portion left in the soil must be 
removed, or fungus will, in time, spread through the whole of the soil. 
As far as possible place the new stakes into the holes from which others 
have been drawn out. Young plants may be potted at once. Never 
allow them to become root-bound. Use for these plants good fibry peat 
in lumps, a little charcoal broken to the size of hazel nuts, and coarse 
