March 1, 1894. 
m --- - - -JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 
process of disentangling the roots is then easily carried out. While 
some persons do not advise the removal of everf particle of soil 
from the roots at planting time, I am a firm believer in this 
practice, thinking that the larger the space occupied by the roots 
in the border the better. 
The canes will be probably 6 feet long, or perhaps more, 
but for convenience in planting this length of stem may be 
reduced to 2 feet. This is best done soon after the leaves fall. 
Spread out the roots as thinly and as straight as possible on the 
surface of the soil. Many of them may extend 4 feet or perhaps 
more. If the border be on the combination principle, part in and 
part out, some of the roots should be spread in the direction of the 
arches for the outside border, but the bulk must be disposed to 
occupy the inside border. They should be thinly covered with 
fine soil and about 2 inches of coarser material over that, pressing 
it down firmly with the hand. In three or four days, if the soil 
show a tendency to become dry on the surface, give water at 
a temperature of about 90°. A mulching 2 inches thick with 
partly decayed stable manure, sweetened by turning, will maintain 
the roots in a moist state, and act as an inducement to keeping 
them near the surface. Instead of treading on a newly made 
border, especially in a wet state, lay down boards to walk upon. 
The roots take much more readily to the soil when in a firm but 
not a soddened state than they do to a light medium. Place a 
stake to each cane to prevent its moving about and being injured. 
In a general way one rod only is allowed to each Vine. It will 
not be advisable to cut the cane further back after planting, as it 
might show a tendency to bleed rather too much, thus weakening 
the future growth. Remove two or three of the buds near the 
point of the cane, and when it can be seen that those at the base 
are swelling freely remove all but two nearest the base. One only 
is required to furnish the ultimate rod, but it is wise to retain two 
as a safeguard in case of damage to one by slugs or from any other 
cause. If one only were retained the loss of that would cripple 
the cane for the year. When these two shoots reach from 4 inches 
to 6 inches long they are pretty safe from slug attacks, as seldom 
do these pests attack them afterwards. I always keep the surface 
soil about the Vines sprinkled with soot as a preventive against 
these marauders by night, they being especially fond of succulent 
Vine shoots. The 2 feet of stem denuded of its buds will be 
useful to tie the shoots to, as it need not be cut away until next 
pruning time. I omitted to say that about 4 inches from the front 
wall is a suitable distance to plant the Vines.—E. Molyneux. 
CELOSIA PLUMOSA. 
All who have had the pleasure of seeing this plant where 
it is made the subject of careful and skilful cultivation, will readily 
admit that more attention should be devoted to it by a larger 
circle of growers than is the case at present. When well grown it 
will rank high amongst our showiest and most useful decorative 
plants. In respect to treatment it is not very fastidious, although 
where the best results are aimed at rather more than ordinary 
care is certainly necessary. This will be amply repaid by the 
result, and the little extra trouble should never be begrudged. 
Many persons when first seeing this plant in a condition bordering 
closely on perfection are so attracted by its beauty that they 
resolve to essay its cultivation, but the result is often disappointing, 
because they had failed to make themselves acquainted with the 
methods employed. 
This failure in obtaining information from successful growers 
arises from various causes, the most prominent being a fear of dis¬ 
playing a lack of in telligence by inquiring. This cannot be too greatly 
deplored, for much valuable time is often lost in endeavouring to 
find out for ourselves those methods which the growers would give 
on application either personally, or what is far better, through the 
medium of the gardening press. By some few persons the practice 
of others, no matter how successful they may be, is considered 
unworthy of imitation, especially when the plant under considera¬ 
tion happens to be one with which they themselves have failed. 
That this is so, strange as it may seem, is too painfully apparent in 
the cultivation of many plants. A more foolish policy to pursue 
it would be hard to imagine, for it resembles more than anything 
else a groping in the darkness for an indefinite period after some¬ 
thing which could readily have been found at the start if due 
advantage had been taicen of, and not contempt expressed for, the 
light. Persons holding such opinions should always, whenever 
found, be regarded as objects of pity, for they are generally as 
ignorant as they are bigoted. It is not with the hope of 
enlightening this section of the garden fraternity that these notes 
are written, but of stimulating a greater interest in the cultiva¬ 
tion of Celosia plumosa amongst persons desirous of growing it to 
a high state of excellence. 
The first consideration mast be, when it is that the plants are 
needed in bloom. This should always be decided before the 
seed is sown, as no interruption or check must occur between this 
and the flowering period beyond that occasioned by the plants 
remaining in small pots until the plumes are distinctly visible. If 
the beginning of August be the time fixed upon, the seed should 
be sown about the fourth week in March, or a period of about four 
clear months should always be allowed from the date of sowing. Do 
not sow the seed too thickly, as this will dispense with the trouble 
of pricking out the seedlings, which can be allowed to remain in 
the seed boxes until large enough to place in pots. Use a compost 
of equal parts loam, leaf mould, and sand, and cover the seeds 
lightly with fine soil ; thoroughly watered, and placed in a tempera¬ 
ture of about 70° until germination has taken place, when remove 
to cooler quarters, placing the boxes near the glass. This will 
be conducive to a sturdy growth, which is to be desired. 
When the seedlings are 3 inches high they should be placed singly 
in 3 or 4-inch pots. With the addition of a little decayed manure the 
compost already advised will do for this potting, as much growth 
is not by any means desirable until after the final potting has 
taken place. For a few days after potting the plants must be 
kept close to enable them to become established in the new soil, 
but when this has taken place a temperature of 55° to 60° will 
suffice. From this time onwards the plants should be kept in a 
light position, watering and ventilating judiciously. Let them 
remain in their first pots until the plume is visible, which is a great 
help in determining the different shades. 
Pots of 6 and 7 inches in diameter will be large enough to 
flower the plants in ; the smaller size should be used for 
the yellows, as these are generally weaker in growth than the 
scarlets and crimsons. For this potting the following compost 
will be found suitable :—Three parts fibrous loam, one horse 
droppings (not too fresh), one part rough leaf mould, and one part 
of coarse sand, which should be slightly increased or decreased 
according to the nature of the loam. When the plants have 
become established, any house or frame where a minimum tem¬ 
perature of 55° can be secured will suit them ; abundance of air 
should therefore be left on day and night when the weather will 
permit. If possible all air should be admitted at the top ©f 
the house, this effectually prevents sudden draughts reaching 
the plants, which is so often the experience from front or side 
ventilation. 
Watering must be done with discretion, as the fine roots of these 
plants are very susceptible to injury if the soil is allowed to become 
soured by unnecessary applications of water ; yet at no time 
must water be withheld long enough to cause flagging. To avoid 
risk of accident it is advisable at this stage to support each plant 
by fastening it to a small stake. If the largest plumes are desired 
all the side shoots should be taken off immediately they appear, 
but generally these are allowed to develop and form with the 
central plume a gorgeous head of colour. When the plumes have 
become expanded less water is needed. With the above treatment 
consistently followed central plumes of from 8 to 18 inches in 
length should be the result. Much, however, depends on the strain, 
and care should be withheld to secure the finest procurable, which 
when once obtained may be preserved, a selection being saved 
from the finest plumes every year to accomplish this purpose. 
—Sassenach. 
BIRDS AND CATERPILLAR MIMICRY. 
We are all of us as gardeners familiar with the fact that many 
of the caterpillars that work mischief to our plants and trees are 
difficult to detect; often we see the damage done, but the offender 
has made himself scarce. A host of species, chiefly of small size, 
conceal themselves in buds and flowers, in folded or curled leaves. 
It is the habit of other caterpillars to leave their food by day, 
retiring into nooks and crannies, or descending to the earth, and 
others there are which escape notice by what we call mimicry— 
that is to say, that by peculiarities of form, of marking, or of 
colour, they bear resemblance to the vegetable substance upon 
which they are resting, and so seem to be a part of it, especially 
while they are motionless. There are, however, some instances 
where even in the act of feeding caterpillars are unnoticed, owing 
to their disguise and cautious movements. The object of this 
mimicry has been assumed to be the protection of the insects from 
their foes, by which otherwise a brood might be exterminated ; but 
it has lately been questioned whether there is much weight in the 
supposition after all. It is a point not without interest to 
gardeners, for their efforts to keep under destructive species are 
largely aided by the natural enemies of many of these. Certainly, 
as far as regards parasitic insects that attack caterpillars, they are 
not likely to be deceived by caterpillar mimicry, since they pursue 
their victims by the sense of touch or hearing, perhaps by smell 
