March 1,1894. 
JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 
169 
the disease being benign not malignant, and this temporary disgust is 
but an early stage of the disorder. 
One of those ill winds which Chrysanthemum growers dread caused 
some trouble—I may say trouble without implicating the mums—to an 
amateur friend last summer, who arose at 4 A.M. with his household, to 
the rescue at the sound of rattling pots. Later on when taking the well 
earned holiday of a business man, watering by deputy was not attended 
with happy results, consequently the report was—Disgusted I But note 
the sequel, he has returned to the subject with increased fervour, a 
larger greenhouse, the newest varieties, and starts the year with added 
experience and pleasures in prospective. Observation of a year’s 
growth, a year’s work, in which the uninitiated may think the pleasures 
are deferred until the climax, is not the case. In the earliest stages of 
existence they are certainly very much like other infants, but as they 
fatten in the legs, and develop individual traits of character, interest 
commences and grows with them ; and what varied tints of green and 
variety in shape and disposition of the foliage is to be seen ! And not less 
variable in their tempers, some so constituted that they greedily absorb 
all you provide for them, while others peevishly take offence at the 
veriest trifle. 
One could wish these favourite plants had received a more euphonious 
name, one that could be used “ trippingly oflf the tongue,” Decapitation 
does not give the best sounding results, nor add to the dignity of queens 
and princesses when addressed as mum. Yet it is probable that the 
abbreviation now in common use will stick, and at the present, if not 
for all time, “ Mum’s the word.” 
To sum up, I do not think that trouble, so often hinted at in 
Chrysanthemum culture, need be the bogey to scare away those who as 
yet but peep over the hedge, and have not entered the field of the— 
Glorious Autumn Queen, Flora’s coming gem. 
Of the swift seasons, as they roll away. 
—E. K., Duilin, 
RED SPIDER ON GOOSEBERRY BUSHES IN 
FEBRUARY. 
COKSIDEEING the vast amount of damage done to the Gooseberry 
crops last season allow me to point out what may not be generally 
known respecting the life history of red spider. I found out by the aid 
of the microscope last winter when giving illustrated lectures in 
technical education, that these pests hatch out from the red eggs which 
may be observed around the buds and spurs about the beginning of 
February, let the weather be ever so wet and stormy, and that although 
dry hot weather may suit them best it does not follow that they cannot 
put up with any amount of rain when secure under the sheath of the 
expanding buds. 
As the spring advanced it was a common occurrence to hear people 
complain erroneously of the frost having damaged both the tender 
foliage as it expanded and of the fruit dropping, instead of under¬ 
standing the real cause, until I called their attention to these pests 
either in the act of sucking the sap or lurking around and sheltering 
from observation in any convenient covering. 
Later in the spring it was a pitiable sight to notice the acres of 
bushes in around Evesham and Pershore, with the foliage either looking 
seared and dried up, or the bushes naked and useless for the season, if 
not killed outright. At the Toddington fruit plantations vigorous 
washing was being carried out with “ Kill-m-right,” and right well it 
killed “ m,” as I proved on examination with my magnifying glass. 
I have just concluded a course of ten practically illustrated lectures 
in horticulture under a Technical Education Committee in Warwick¬ 
shire wit’n a class which has been well attended throughout, and two 
evenings have been devoted to minute insect pests on fruit trees and 
bushes, illustrated under powerful microscopes. This not only creates 
much interest in seeing the insects magnified, but brings home to the 
members the existence and destruction of enemies they never even 
suspected, and especially red spider, which is already in strong force on 
some bushes, as I showed a fortnight ago. 
I have cleansed Gooseberry bushes of millions of red spiders on a very 
simple plan, and with no expense save a little labour. Watching my 
opportunity for bright sunshine, which induces the spiders to emerge 
from their retreats and pass to the surface of the foliage, as may be seen 
by the naked eye, I spread rough cloths—hand-towels—under the bushes 
close up to the stems, wrapping over at the edges, procure a pail of water, 
get my syringe and swill them oflE with all my power, and gather them 
up and swill off into another pail of water, in which I souse the cloths 
and let the water run down in a stream. This is easy, efficient, and 
helps the fruit to swell into the bargain. This can be repeated in a 
week or month if found necessary. Whatever methods of riddance may 
be employed, earlier action than is generally considered necessary would 
seem to be of the first importance.—J. Hiam. 
CHRISTMAS ROSES. 
These beautiful hardy plants are valuable both to the market and 
private grower, affording under very ordinary treatment a wealth of 
bloom at a season of the year when flowers are usually scarce. For 
wreaths, crosses, and other floral designs the blooms are preferred by 
many to the beautiful Eucharis on account of their durability. Much 
as the Hellebore dislikes to be disturbed at the root, yet there are times 
when new plantations must be made if the supply is to be maintained. 
the crowns becoming exhausted in the course of a few years. A great 
deal depends upon the treatment the plants receive, but they will amply 
repay the grower for the extra care and outlay. 
Hellebores thrive if planted in a good loamy soil in which some 
thoroughly decayed manure has been incorporated, and if possible in a 
somewhat shady and moist position. If the latter is out of the question, 
frequent soakings of water must be given during the summer months, 
and if liquid manure can be applied occasionally so much the better. 
To this treatment the plants will quickly respond, and afford a profusion 
of fine flowers later on. Division of the root is the beat mode of propa¬ 
gation, which should be done some time during March or April, accord¬ 
ing to the locality. In lifting the clumps for dividing them do not 
injure the roots. Plant as quickly as possible about 12 inches asunder 
each way, in ground that has been previously prepared, then mulch 
with some short manure. Do not under any circumstances allow the 
roots to be exposed, so as to get dry before planting. This is only too 
frequently the cause of failure with imported clumps and crowns. Pro¬ 
tection of some sort is necessary during the autumn and winter months, 
if clean and perfect blooms are wanted. Hand-lights, moveable frames, 
or even clean long straw, may be placed over the beds when the buds 
begin to push, and then a sharp look-out must be kept for snails and 
other insects. 
If plants are required for growing in pots, lift the clumps in October, 
and place in fair sized pots so as not to cramp the roots. Put them in 
a cold frame or greenhouse where the flowers will rapidly expand, 
but the temperature should not exceed 45° or 50°, or the blooms will 
become drawn and the crowns considerably weakened. Plant out 
again in the following spring, where they should remain for at least 
a season or two. Very good results are frequently obtained by potting 
the clumps in the spring, plunging to the rims of the pots out of 
doors, and carefully watering the plants and transferring them to 
larger sized pots the following year. Treated thus, bloom may be 
had several seasons in succession from the same plants, but if in any 
way neglected failure is swift and sure, so that on the whole the 
planting out system is probably the safer. 
Of the many varieties of Helleborus niger, maximus is the variety 
mostly sought after for floral work, the blooms being both larger and 
whiter than those of the other varieties. The Christmas Rose may be 
used as a rock plant, when placed in suitable positions the different 
varieties producing a pretty effect during the dull short days of the 
winter.— Hedley Waeeei^. 
CLIMBING PLANTS. 
Many readers of the Journal of Horticulture will doubtless agree with 
me that some of the most beautiful and interesting plants in cultivation 
are to be found amongst our stove and greenhouse climbers. Is it not, 
therefore, surprising, that we should see so many bare walls and rafters 
in glass structures, which, with a very little care and forethought, 
might be furnished with a rich covering of leafage and bloom ? I am 
well aware that there are gardens where great attention is bestowed 
upon the cultivation of climbing plants ; but I must confess that as 
far as my experience goes these places are exceptions to the rule. If 
allowed to grow at random they are apt to form too dense a covering, 
thereby excluding sun and light, and this would not be conducive to 
the successful culture of the various plants beneath. I am convinced, 
however, that if the plants are attended to once a week for the purpose 
of removing all superfluous growths aud regulating the remainder over 
the space allotted to them, better results would accrue. 
The task of making a selection of climbing plants must be left to the 
cultivator, as much depends on the space at disposal, some kinds requir¬ 
ing more room than others. I will, however, mention a few climbers 
suitable for various purposes. For the roofs of large structures we have 
the Bignonias, Pasbifloras, Tacsonias, Jasminums, and Tecomas, the last 
named being, although little known, among the best of this class of 
plants. Where space is limited there are many plants that are suitable, 
and among them may be mentioned the Dipladenias, Clerodendrons, 
Hoyas, Stephanotis, and the Streptosolons. For walls and pillars we 
have such a number of suitable plants that to enumerate them all 
would occupy too much space. I will, therefore, restrict myself to 
naming such as Plumbago capensis and Habrothamnus elegans. 
To insure success in the culture of climbing plants it is very essential 
that the habit and general character of each one be taken into con¬ 
sideration. The first thing to claim attention is to see that a thorough 
drainage be procured, as upon this item to a very large extent hangs the 
future success or failure ol the undertaking. The best way of effecting 
this end is to place a number of clinkers or old brick rubble in the 
bottom of the hole, with a layer of long straw placed on them. My 
object for recommending straw in preference to turf, which is generally 
used, is that it is of a more durable nature. After the drainage is 
properly prepared the hole should be filled with fresh soil. The nature 
of this must of course depend on the requirement of the plant; but a 
compost of rich fibrous loam and peat, with a little charcoal and a fair 
proportion of sharp sand, will form a suitable mixture for most of the 
plants mentioned. Provided the foregoing instructions have been carried 
out evergreen climbers may be planted, making them tolerably firm, 
and giving a good watering to settle the soil well about the roots. . In 
planting deciduous climbers I have found it best to somewhat limit the 
amount of root room, as by this means the plants may be kept at rest 
more or less during the winter. I have known many instances where 
this precaution has not been exercised, with the result that the plants 
