March 8,1894. 
JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 
191 
promotes root action, which it is necessary to maintain as active as 
possible for securing properly swelled berries ; but remember that this 
also depends on the full exposure of every leaf to the light, therefore 
avoid the least tendency to overcrowding. 
Succession Houses. —Disbud and secure the growths as they advance, 
stopping them two joints beyond the bunch where the space is limited, 
but where there is space allow a greater extension before stopping. 
Remove the laterals from the joints below the show of fruit except 
from the two basal leaves, which may be stopped at the first leaf and 
one afterwards as produced. The laterals above the fruit may be 
allowed to make such growths as can have exposure to light without 
crowding, and then te stopped, keeping them closely pinched after¬ 
wards, as well as in the case of those not having room for extension. 
Remove all superfluous and ill-formed bunches of the free-setting varie¬ 
ties as soon as those most promising for the crop can be determined. 
Vines started early in the year will be in flower. A rather dry 
atmosphere with a free circulation of air and a temperature of 65° to 
70° at night and 70° to 75° by day, are conducive to a good set, mode¬ 
rate moisture being maintained by damping the house two or three 
times a day in bright weather. Any shy setting varieties, such as 
Muscats, should be kept 5° higher, the flowers being carefully fertilised, 
taking pollen for the purpose from those varieties that afford it plenti¬ 
fully, such as Black Hamburgh, Foster’s Seedling, and others. 
Late Houses. —Start the Vines intended to afford fruit from August 
onwards ; indeed. Muscats, Alicantes, Lady Downe’s, and other late 
sorts should be encouraged now, as the fruit keeps much better when 
ripened early in September than when the season is more advanced at 
the ripening period. It is imperative that Gros Colman and Gros Guil¬ 
laume be given a long period of growth. No further delay should be 
made in starting houses of those varieties. Vines, however, which have 
only been recently pruned are the better for a few weeks’ rest to dry 
the wounds and form the essential callus to prevent bleeding ; but this 
may be prevented by keeping the Vines as cool as possible, so as to 
cause the sap to recede, and then—that is, when the wounds are quite 
dry, dress them carefully with best French polish, after which they may 
be started without fear of a serious loss of sap. 
In the case of late Black Hamburghs the Vines may be kept cool, 
and they will then start naturally next month. Inside borders can be 
brought into a thoroughly moist condition by the application of water 
not under 50° in temperature nor exceeding the mean of the house. But 
avoid needless applications of water, as it only tends to retard root 
action, and in many cases causes the smaller fibres to decay, and 
shanking is the consequence. The outside borders are not benefited by 
protective material after this, but care should be taken to keep the stems 
of any Vines that are planted outside well wrapped in hay bands. The 
atmosphere will be kept sufficiently moist by damping floors and walls 
two or three times a day ; 50° is a sufficiently high temperature at night, 
and 65° by day with sun. Depress any young canes to the horizontal 
line or lower, so as to insure their starting the buds evenly throughout 
their entire length. 
Melons. —The earliest plants are now well advanced, and if stopped 
when they have extended about two-thirds across the trellis, laterals 
follow with fruit showing at the second or third joint. To insure a 
good and prompt setting of the fruit it is necessary to afford a bottom 
heat of 80° to 85°, and sufficient water only at the roots to prevent 
flagging. This will arrest growth, and in combination with a rather dry 
atmosphere, a circulation of warm air passing through the house will 
favour the production of pollen. When this is ripe, fertilise the 
pistillate blossoms as they expand every day, and stop the shoots at the 
same time one joint beyond them. V/hen the fruits commence swelling, 
earth up the roots by placing warm soil against the sides of the ridges 
or hillocks. Apply water as required, but avoid a soddened condition 
of the soil, duly maintaining moisture by sprinkling the paths in the 
morning and evening, and syringing lightly at closing time in bright 
weather. If a succession of fruit is required in the same house, deprive 
some of the plants of the flowers that appear on the first laterals. 
Stopping those at the first joint will cause the sub-laterals to show fruit, 
which will be rather later and finer owing to the increased vigour of the 
plants. 
Melons in Pits and Frames. —The plants in these with the shoots 
trained over the surface of the bed will require similar attention to 
that advised for Cucumbers as regards liming the beds and adding soil 
as the plants advance in growth. Train and regulate the shoots, 
removing every alternate lateral, and apply water sufficiently to 
maintain a steady growth, always of the same temperature as that of the 
bed. As soon as successional seedlings are ready plant them out, and 
pot others as they become large enough. Seed may be sown to provide 
plants for pits and frames as they become cleared of Radishes or early 
Potatoes, about five weeks being required to secure strong plants. 
Cucumbers. — Houses. —The night temperature may be increased 
to 70°, but 5° lower on cold nights is more favourable, watering more 
freely and increasing the atmospheric moisture. In the daytime 85° to 
90° from sun heat should be allowed, running up to 95° or 100° when the 
weather is favourable after closing. Thin out the growths once a week, 
removing the old and superfluous, but not carrying this out excessively 
at one time. Stop, tie, and otherwise regulate the shoots as required, 
removing tendrils and male blossoms. Winter-fruited plants may have 
some of the soil removed with a handfork, disturbing the roots as little 
as possible. Supply lumpy loam previously warmed, and sprinkle over 
it a little soot, which is a good stimulant and useful against various 
pests. 
Cucumbers in Frames and Pits. —Beds that have been made up some 
time will need good linings. Remove as much of the outside as can be 
spared, and if the heat has not greatly declined it will suffice for the 
present if one-half of the bed is lined, deferring the remainder until the 
heat is again on the decline. Let it be applied to the width of about 
2 feet. Thin linings are of little use, being soon spent, and sooner 
require renewal. When the heat is up in the linings see that there is no 
accumulation of rank steam in the frame, preventing it by ventilation. 
A good night covering will be necessary to maintain a night temperature 
of 65° to 70°. Admit a little air at 75°, and permit the temperature to 
increase to 85° or 90°, closing at 80° to 85°, and so as to advance to 90° 
or 95°, which it is not advisable to exceed at this early season. Add a 
little more soil as the roots spread on the surface or protrude through 
the sides of the hillocks. Attend to training and pegging the shoots, 
being careful not to overcrowd them. Stop the leading shoots 1 foot 
from the sides of the frames, and the laterals at one or two joints beyond 
the show of fruit. In watering do not wet the foliage more than can be 
helped, and take care that it is of the same temperature as that of the beds; 
A sowing of seeds may be made to raise plants for growing in pits or 
frames that have been occupied with Radishes or early Potatoes. In 
four or five weeks the seedlings are ready for planting, and will come 
into bearing in about a similar time, affording a supply of fruit during 
the summer. 
THE KITCHEN GARDEN. 
Celery. —Celery seed sown very early does not always germinate 
satisfactorily, this being especially the case when old seed is used. 
Directly it is seen the first sowings are not likely to yield enough plants 
sow more seed at once in pans or boxes, taking as much pains with 
it as with Lobelia or other small flower seeds. A moist rather than 
a dry heat is necessary to promote germination, and the seedlings 
should also be kept well away from hot water-pipes. Before the plants 
become drawn shift the pans or boxes to shelves near to the glass and 
still in gentle heat. Qaite the earliest should, when large enough, be 
pricked out into other pans or boxes filled with good soil, and be kept 
growing sturdily in heat. 
Carrots and Radishes. — Once commenced there must be no 
cessation in the supply of either kind. A long succession of tender 
young roots may certainly be had of the former from a two-light or 
three-light frame, or enough for a small establishment, but Radishes 
cannot be had in a similar manner, and successional sowings are 
essential at fortnightly or rather longer intervals. Sowing Radish seed 
thickly entails much unnecessary trouble in thinning out, and is a 
senseless proceeding.. 
Spring- Beds. —Before glass was so cheap and plentiful many 
gardeners were under the necessity of raising early Carrots, Radishes, 
Celery, Lettuce, and Cauliflower plants without the aid of a glazed 
frame, and the practice ought not to be in abeyance at the present day 
even in many small gardens. What is wanted is a good sized heap of 
well prepared hesWting material, this being quite level and, say, from 
6 feet to 12 feet long, 4 feet to 6 feet wide, and about 3 feet deep. A 
sheltered spot ought to be chosen for this bed. Drive tall stout stakes 
into each corner and along the sides and end, these answering the 
double purpose of keeping boards 9 inches or so in depth that are needed 
for enclosing the requisite soil, and also of supporting trebled fish nets, 
mats, or other protective material that may be used. Surface over the 
bed with 5 inches or rather more fine light soil. Half of the bed may 
be devoted to Carrots and Radishes, Nantes Horn being a good early 
Carrot and fine for exhibition from this same bed in July, while Wood’s 
Frame is still one of the best early Radishes. Sow the former in shallow 
drills 8 inches apart, and Radishes midway between them, and cover 
lightly with sifted soil. The best of Celery plants for the winter 
crop can be raised on such beds ; also autumn Cauliflowers, Lettuces, 
and Brussels Sprouts. The heap of manure may ultimately be dug 
into the Celery trenches, or might be turned to a good account in the 
production of early Vegetable Marrows. 
Barly Turnips. — Where extra good crops of late Turnips were 
grown last autumn and a portion of the roots duly stored, there will 
probably be little or no necessity for forcing Turnips this spring. If 
likely to be scarce before Mayor June an attempt should be made to 
forward some under glass. A frame with or without glazed lights, 
rough protection being substituted for the latter, ought to be placed on 
a mild firmly built hotbed, faced over with short or old manure; on 
this place about 6 inches of fine loamy soil, making this somewhat firm. 
If this is dry give it a gentle watering, and soon after sow seed of Early 
Milan—the best forcing variety—thinly and broadcast, covering with a 
little fine soil. An early opportunity must be taken of thinning out the 
plants to not less than 3 inches apart, after which the thinning may 
be done, according as the roots are near the size of overgrown Radishes, 
and therefore large enough for use. There must be no hard forcing or 
undue coddling, or the bulbing will not take place. Sowing the seed on 
a warm border, and covering with a shallow glazed frame or only 
boards and mats, would forward Turnips considerably ; while if any are 
sown quite in the open, the market grower’s plan of covering with strawy 
litter, removing it every morning and replacing every evening, after the 
plants are above ground answers well, both for Turnips and Radishes. 
Sowing Onions. —Last season many of those who delayed sowing 
their Onion seed till late in March had good cause to regret their 
decision, the dry weather setting in before the seed had a chance to 
germinate. Sowing early in March usually answers best, but should not 
be practised if the ground cannot be got into a free-working condition, 
as in this case it had better be delayed till it can—even if this means 
