210 
JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 
March 15,1894 
was exhibited at a meeting of the Royal Horticultural Society last 
Bummer by Miss Browning-Hall, Algiers, and an award of merit was 
adjudged for it. The engraving pourtrays the character of this attrac¬ 
tive form so well that a further description is needless. H. helix 
minima is another distinct variety, with small green leaves, and is 
suitable for growing in pots.—C. 
BIRMINGHAM SPRING FLOWER SHOW. 
The fourteenth annual Exhibition was held in the Town Hall on 
the 13th and 14th inst, and although the entries were not so numerous 
as in previous years, their quality was unquestionable. 
In the class for eighteen Hyacinths, first Mr. W. Earp, gardener to 
the Right Hon. Joseph Chamberlain, M.P,, with an excellent stand. 
Mr. W. H. Dyer, gardener to Mrs. Marigold, Edgbaston, was second ; 
and Mr. Priest, gardener to A. \V. Hulse, Esq., Beech Lanes, third. 
For twelve Hyacinths, Mr. Dyer first, Mr. A. W. Hulse second, and 
Mr. G. Beesley, gardener to N. Thwaites, Esq., Woodbank, third. For 
six pots of Tulips Mr. Dyer was first, Mr. A. W. Hulse second, and Mr, 
Earp third. Mr. G. Hancox, West Bromwich, was first for six pots 
Lily of the Valley. Dielytras and Spirreas were not sufficiently in flower, 
and Mr. Grice’s three Deutzias which gained the first prize were large 
specimens well flowered. The first prizes for six and three Azaleas were 
won by Mr. Palmer, gardener to Wm. Bown, Esq., Beech Lanes, 
Harborne, for grand well-flowered specimens. 
For six stove and greenhouse plants there was only one exhibitor, 
Mr. Fewkes, gardener to T. Clayton, Esq., Castle Bromwich, who was 
awarded the first prize, and the same exhibitor was again first for three 
Genistas. Some excellent bouquets were staged, Mrs. Grice, Harborne, 
Birmingham, taking first honours in each class. Some excellent stands 
of stove and greenhouse flowers were staged, and the first prize went to 
Mr. Earp. The first prize for a group of Orchids was awarded to 
Wm. Bown, Esq. The same gentleman was also first in other classes 
devoted to Orchids. Some capital groups of plants were staged, Messrs. 
Earp, Powell, and Dyer, who were successful in the order of their names. 
In the other special prizes, classes for Hyacinths, Mr. Earp, N, Thwaites, 
Esq., Mrs. Marigold, and A. W. Hulse, Esq., were the chief winners, the 
first named winning the prize for Cyclamens given by Messrs, Sutton 
and Sons. Mr. Robert Sydenham offered special prizes for twelve pots 
of Narcissus, Mr. Earp being first with grand plants. 
Honorary exhibits formed a striking feature of the Exhibition, being 
of exceptional merit. Messrs. Thomson & Co. had a fine display of 
Hyacinths, Tulips, Cyclamens, and miscellaneous plants, and four 
certificates were awarded to their seedling Chinese Primulas—Princess 
May, Duke of York, Mont Blanc, and Fairy Queen. Mr. Robert 
Sydenham had a group of very fine Hyacinths and Narcissi. Messrs. 
Hewitt & Co., Solihull Nurseries, had a charming display of Cycla¬ 
mens and Azaleas; and Messrs. Pope & Sons, nurserymen, a hand¬ 
some memorial cross, which was greatly admired. Messrs. Wright and 
Holmes, horticultural builders, exhibited examples of their patent 
glazed garden frames. 
WQKK.FOfl'rHEWEEK.. 
HARDY FRUIT GARDEN. 
Protecting- Wall Trees. —Severe frosts, cold east winds, and wet 
stormy weather are inimical to the welfare of fruit trees if occurring 
when the blossoms are fully expanded. Under certain conditions the 
effects are disastrous, being most pronounced when a saturated condition 
of the flowers is added to an attack by severe frost. More cold, either 
of frost or wind, can be endured when the blossoms are dry. Heavy 
dew deposited on the tender flowers, and then frozen, is injurious at 
the most critical period when the organs of fructification are fully 
developed. 
Retarding Rlossom. —The shelter of walls has a tendency to forward 
the blossoms of Apricots, Peaches, and Nectarines during bright, mild 
weather, with the result that they are liable to be caught by frosts. If 
applied early enough an arrangement of blinds and curtains drawn in 
front of the trees on sunny days only, does much to retard the blooms 
advancing so fast. 
Protecting with Copings and Curtains. —All walls of choice fruit 
ought to have a moveable projecting coping of wood or glass, this alone 
often serving to keep the blooms dry when expanded. A coping also 
affords the readiest means to which to fix curtains. The latter must 
hang clear of the trees to be effective. The best material is woollen 
netting, but Hessian, frigi domo, tiffany or canvas may be used. A 
series of brass rings should be sewn to the upper and lower edges of the 
material, and strung upon iron rods fixed for the top along the edge of 
the coping. For the bottom iron rods secured to uprights projecting 
2 feet above the ground may be adopted. An arrangement of this kind 
is easily worked in 10 feet lengths. 
Poles and Fish Netting, —When copings are not available stout 
larch poles may be placed against the walls, reaching the top and set 
out about 2 feet at the bottom, where they must be made secure in the 
soil. Over these aflBx protecting material or a double or treble thickness 
of fish netting. The latter if used need not be removed until taken 
away altogether, but canvas or other close material must be removed 
daily except in very bad weather. In some positions a single thickness 
of fish netting may be effectual, while in others two, three, and even 
four thicknesses will be desirable. 
Makeshift Protection. —Temporary protection can be given where 
more elaborate and trustworthy means are not at hand by placing 
behind the main branches sprays of evergreens or Spruce, though these 
are not so good as twiggy branches of deciduous bushes and trees, such 
as Hornbeam, Birch, and Hazel. Place them so as to hang over the 
blossoms, this being a better way of protecting than attempting to 
entirely cover them. Nets and other material hung over trees without 
being afifixed to copings, poles, or framework of some kind often cause 
injury to the blossoms, which ought to be quite free from pressure. 
Planting- Fruit Trees. —If any fruit trees remain to be planted 
they ought to be dealt with at once. Choose dry mild weather. Plant 
expeditiously, so as not to expose roots to drying influences. See 
that the soil is deeply prepared and in a well pulverised condition. In 
planting, see that the ends of the roots are smoothly cut, leaving no 
jagged portions, these not readily healing. Smoothly cut ends heal 
quickly, with the result that abundance of fibres are produced. Make 
the holes wide and shallow, or at least no deeper than will, when filled, 
cover the boles of the trees higher than before. Width is necessary, so 
that the roots can be spread to their full extent. Cover few more 
than 6 inches, these being the lowest. The rest dispose between layers 
of soil composed of loam with a little wood ashes, the uppermost fibres 
being about 3 inches from the surface. Stake firmly at once, 
mulching with half-decayed manure of a moderately dry and flaky 
character, which will serve to retain moisture in the soil while admit¬ 
ting at the same time the benefits of air and sunshine. 
Pruning N-e-wly Planted Trees. —The necessity for pruning or 
shortening the shoots of fruit trees, whether planted in the autumn or 
spring, is a matter of considerable importance. Very few trees are 
planted, except those specially prepared by a course of annual trans¬ 
planting, without having their roots severely shortened in the operation 
of lifting. Hence it follows that the branches, if not too old, ought to 
be dealt with similarly, in order that the balance between them and the 
roots may be more uniform. When the much-shortened roots are called 
upon to supply an undue length of wood with fresh sap the result is 
that the wider distribution fails to produce vigorous growth and often 
none at all, whereas if concentrated on a less length of wood the buds 
receiving it would start strongly into growth. The formation of young 
trees into any desired shape also demands that the branches be shortened 
so that growth may be originated at any desired point. The best time 
to prune in these cases is just as the buds begin to swell, shortening the 
shoots to less than half their length, selecting buds pointing in the right 
direction. Weakly trees, of course, should be pruned closer, the lesser 
number of buds left being then better able to start strongly into growth. 
Shorten shoots deficient in size nearer the point whence they originate, 
with the object of inducing a stronger extension. 
Preparing- Stocks for Grafting. —Where trees are intended for 
graf ing, the removal of the wood to clean smooth parts of the bark may 
be effected in readiness for carrying out the grafting expeditiously. The 
cuts must be left quite smooth, which will not be difficult if care be 
taken in detaching the branches so as not to tear or split the bark. 
After sawing the largest branches half way through commence an 
undercut to avert disaster. 
FRUIT FORCING. 
Peaches and Ifectarlnes. — Early-forced Trees, —An equable 
temperature is desirable during the stoning process. With too much 
heat at night the trees are deprived of rest, and this is not favourable to 
the fruit. Cold and drying draughts in the daytime are even more 
injurious, a sudden check sometimes proving fatal to the crop. Continue 
the night temperature at 60° to 65°, and in dull weather 70° to 75° in the 
daytime, and ventilate from 65°. Attend to thinning the fruit betimes. 
It is not advisable to leave, during the stoning period, more than twice 
the number of fruits that are to be left for the crop. One fruit to a foot 
of trellis covered with foliage is ample for the large Peaches, the 
medium-sized varieties may have the fruits a little closer. Nectarines 
being generally smaller than Peaches are often left much too close, 
which reduces the size of the fruits proportionately, whereas to secure 
fine fruits they require thinning similar to Peaches. Secure all the 
shoots required for extension and next year’s bearing to the trellis as 
hey progress, stopping any gross successional growths at a length of 
about 15 inches. If the stopping results in laterals pinch them at the 
first leaf, and so on as produced. If extension is wanted the uppermost 
lateral may be trained in. Pinch laterals on extensions at the first leaf, 
and succeeding growths also to one joint. If the trees are in good order 
there will be little necessity for stopping the shoots if they are allowed 
space for the development of the foliage to solidify the wood as made. 
Shoots retained to attract the sap to the fruit should be stopped to one 
leaf, they having previously had the first growth stopped at the second 
or third leaf. Avoid stimulating the trees while stoning, but afford 
due supplies of water and food of a phosphatic rather than nitrogenous 
nature. 
Second Early-forced Trees. —Proceed with disbudding, a shoot being 
left at the base of the present year’s bearing wood or last year’s young 
wood, and one on a level with or beyond the fruit. The first must be 
trained forward, but the latter should be stopped at the second or third 
