March 15, 1894. 
JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 
211 
leaf. Upon extensions leave young shoots at 15 to 18 inches distance, 
the growth from the extremity being trained as a continuation of the 
primary branch. Commence tying early, as when the shoots are allowed 
to grow considerably they cannot be brought down without danger of 
their breaking. Overcrowding must be carefully guarded against ; it is 
fatal to tine, highly coloured fruits and the formation and perfection of 
the wood for future crops. Thin the fruits by degrees, leaving those 
well placed upon the upper side of the trellis in sufficient quantity for 
a crop or a little more until the final thinning before stoning. In no case 
is it good practice to tax the trees with superfiuous fruits after they are the 
size of marbles. A temperature of 55° to 60° at night, 65° by day, 
increasing to 70° to 75° is suitable. 
Houses Started at the Beginning of February. —The trees in these 
have set their fruits — that is, the early varieties, while the late 
trees are in full blossom, and should be fertilised when the pollen is 
ripe. When the fruit is all set recourse must be had to syringing in the 
morning and afternoon of fine days, but an occasional sprinkling, with 
damping the house, will suffice in dull weather, always having the 
foliage and young fruit dry before nightfall. Disbudding must be done 
gradually, commencing with the most forward growths, also thinning 
the fruit after it is seen which takes the lead in swelling, removing the 
smallest first, but avoid large reductions of foliage or of fruit at one 
time. A temperature of 55° at night, 5° less on cold mornings, 55° to 
60° by day, advancing to 65° or 70° with gleams of sun, will bring the 
fruit on sufficiently fast, ventilating from 55° or 60°, and not allowing an 
advance above 65° without full ventilation. 
Houses Started Early in March. — With the flowers expanding 
syringing the trees must cease, for there is danger, especially in dull 
weather, of weakening the blossom and converting the pollen into paste. 
An occasional syringing may, however, be practised if the weather be 
unusually bright and the atmosphere dry. Damping the floors and 
borders is generally sufficient, and a safer plan. Admit air freely in 
mild weather, and fertilise the flowers on fine days. Maintain the 
night temperature at 45° to 50°, 55° by day artificially, and 65“ from 
sun heat. Admit a little air constantly, increase the ventilation at 50°, 
and give more as the heat rises, having full air on at 65°, closing at 
50°. Superfluous flowers on the under side or back of the shoots may 
be removed by drawing the hand down the growth. 
Late Houses. —Where the roof lights have been removed they should 
be replaced at once, the buds being well advanced in swelling, and 
promising an abundant crop of fruit, If there be any trace of aphides 
apply an insecticide or fumigate the bouse before the flowers expand. 
Nothing conduces more to a good set than removing the flowers on the 
under side or back of the trellis, and turning on the heat after the 
anthers show for a short time in the early part of the day. to advance 
the temperature to 50° and to permit of ventilation, as if there is a 
prevalence of dull cold weather at that time, closing the ventilators for 
safety prejudices the pollen. Houses that have fixed roof lights must 
have the borders rendered thoroughly moist. 
Pigs.— Early Forced Trees in Pots. —The Figs are now swelling 
rapidly, and the trees will require to be well supplied with water and 
nourishment. Liquid manure from tanks may be given whenever 
water is required, as Figs are gross feeders, but it must not be too 
strong nor applied cold, but warmed to the same temperature as the 
mean of the house. If the pots are well drained, it is scarcely possible 
to apply water too copiously when the trees are in full growth. An 
occasional sprinkling of some approved fertiliser on the pots will be 
beneficial. The night temperature may be continued at 60° to 65°, with 
10° more by day, and from sun heat advance to 80° or 85°, affording 
adequate ventilation when the weather is favourable. Maintain a 
genial atmosphere by syringing the trees twice a day when the weather 
is bright, but avoid keeping the foliage constantly wet, as would be the 
case by syringing vigorously in dull weather. Damp the paths and 
walls, and keep the evaporation troughs charged with liquid manure, or 
sprinkle the paths with it occasionally, and to check red spider paint 
the hot-water pipes with sulphur. Avoid crowding, stopping or tying 
the shoots as growth advances, as the fruit to have flavour and colour 
must when ripening have full exposure to light, combined with a 
circulation of warm dry air. 
Planted-out Fig Trees. —The growth under favourable climatic con¬ 
ditions is very rapid, hence the necessity of frequent attention in 
stopping the shoots at the fifth or sixth leaf. As a well-develuped spur, 
as such stopped shoots are called, gives the best results in the second 
crop, when a number of growths appear together they mav all be 
removed but one, so as to cause it to be sturdy and fruitful. Train and 
regulate the terminals as required. Keep the house genial by daily 
syringing and damping the paths at closing time. 
Raising Young Fig Trees. —This is a good time to propagate young 
plants from cuttings. Select shoots from 5 to 6 inches in length, 
with a heel of last year’s wood attached, and remove all the eye.o on the 
part to be inserted in the soil. They root freely in a botiomheatof 
75° to 80°. 
Cherry House.—It will soon be seen whether the fertilising was 
effectual, as the Cherries will be swelling at the base of the decayed 
flowers, when syringing may be resumed—once a day at present, and 
twice a day after the remainder of the flowers are cast and the weather 
is clear and warm. Fire heat will only be necessary to prevent the 
temperature falling below 40° at night, and to maintain 60° as a 
minimum by day. Ventilate at 50°, closing at the same, regulating the 
ventilation according to circumstances, but not allowing a rise above 
65° without full air. If green aphides appear fumigate the house, and 
keep a sharp look out for black aphis, assailing it on its first appearance 
with tobacco water applied with a brush to the affected parts. The 
foliage must be dry when fumigation is practised. Keep a strict look 
out for grubs. Stopping will soon require attention. Pinch out the 
points of the shoots when they have made 4 to 5 inches of growth, 
removing those shoots that are not required. Train extensions in their 
full length, also those for filling vacant spaces. Overcrowding must be 
strictly guarded against, it being prejudicial both to the present and 
future crops. 
Pines.— Suckers. —The rooting of potted suckers will be indicated 
by the growth of the foliage, but it is well to turn the plants out of 
the pots, or a portion of them, to ascertain the condition of roots and the 
soil. The young roots which dssue from the base of suckers or plants 
similarly treated are very tender and susceptible of injury from the 
effects of too much bottom heat, hence when the roots reach the sides of 
the pots 85° is ample, above which there is danger. When the bottom 
heat is excessive the pots must be raised, placing some loose tan under 
and around them to allow the superabundant heat to pass away 
without injuring the roots. The plants should be carefully supplied with 
water, and not have too much top heat, nor be too far from the glass, or 
they will become drawn and weakly. 
Potting Pine Plants. —Once the suckers and other plants sub¬ 
jected to similar treatment start they make roots rapidly, therefore 
have soil ready for transferring them to the fruiting pots, as it is 
important that they be grown without check by being either root-bound 
or dry. Sound fibrous loam in good sized lumps is the best material 
for potting, rejecting the dusty particles. It should be pressed firmly 
round the balls of the plants, watering them if the soil be dry (not 
otherwise) with tepid water, and plunging them in a bottom heat of 
90° to 95° until the roots have possession of the fresh soil, when 85° is 
more suitable. The top heat should be maintained at 60° to 65° at 
night, and 70° to 75° by day, with 10° to 15° rise from sun heat. 
Frvritinq Pine Plants. —Those at or near the flowering stage 
should have a night temperature of 65° to 70°, and 75° by day, with 
80° to 90° from sun heat, closing at 85°, well damping all walls and 
paths at the same time. Saccessional plants may have a bottom heat 
of about 85°, ventilating at 80° and closing at 85°, lightly sprinkling 
the plants occasionally. A genial atmosphere should be secured by 
damping the floors and pit walls as they become dry, but it is not good 
practice to syringe the bed between the plants. Examine the plants 
once a week and supply tepid water, containing a little stimulating 
substance such as guano or soot, when required. 
r^r ^ a. i . i . <. t . >. v -.. t. > ■. m - t. i - > - > -1 -1 ■ i >j . 
im BEE-KDEPER.^ 
APIARIAN NOTES. 
Death of an Old Bee-keepek. 
On the 24th ult. Mr. James Wilson, Millhuegh, near Larkhall 
died, aged ninety-three years. He was the oldest Freemason in Scot¬ 
land, and perhaps the oldest bee-keeper. He was clerk to the 
Larkhall Bee Society for fifty years. Highly respected in the 
district, he was known by the cognomen of “ Provost,” not because 
of his ambition, but from the confidence the people had in him. This 
is one of three deaths, all of successful bee-keepers, within a month, 
residing within a short distance of each other. One of them named 
Forrest had a fair sized apiary, his wife and daughter managing the 
bees both at home and the moors successfully. 
Larkhall Bee-keepers. 
Bee-keepers, florists, and bees are not having a very enjoyable 
time of it. The barometer is falling, and it is the ‘Jth of March ; 
the ground is sodden, and outdoor work is in a backward state. The 
morning of the 3rd was bright, promising a fair day, so I started on 
a visit to the Larkhall bee-keepers ; but the day turned out wet 
and stormy, which unluckily prevented many inspections. 
Larkhall people have by their united action given a good example 
by their thrift and independent spirit of how home comforts may be 
realised, and “ home rule ” of the right kind established. The 
majority of them are proprietors of their dwellings. They have 
their mutual improvement and other societies, and from a moral point 
of view are worthy of being imitated. 
Many bee-keepers are amongst them. My first visit was to Mr. 
John Nicol, rather an extraordinary person, as is also Mrs. Nicol. It is 
several years since I was there, and from the long streets of uniform 
houses it was not easy for a comparative stranger to find the right 
door, so I made up my mind to pause at the tidiest doorstep and 
window. Mrs. Nicol welcomed me in. Her husband, acting as clerk 
to all the societies of the village, was absent on duty. Mr. Nicol has 
a taste for music, and has some very fine instruments in the violin 
line of his own make. Being a weaver in silk he was appointed 
representative of that industry at the Edinburgh International Ex¬ 
hibition, wove, and presented to Her Majesty the Queen and other 
members of the Royal family some beautiful designed liecesof his 
