March 22, 1894. 
JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 
229 
moist, but when the leaves are full sized the evaporation from them is 
considerable, and from that time until the fruit ripens they must not 
lack water at the roots. It is difficult to state how often the borders 
will need watering through their being so variable in dimension and 
formation. A narrow border will require watering twice as often as 
one double the width, assuming the Vines to be equally extended and 
cropped, while a border of loose material will need water much more 
frequently than one formed of firm retentive loam. Consequently the 
grower must be guided by the state of the Vines in relation to the 
rooting area and have due regard to the weather, as water will be 
required much oftener in hot, dry weather than when cold and dull. 
The proper procedure is to examine the border, and when water is 
necessary give it abundantly. Surface dressings of chemical manures 
are of much benefit for the health of the Vines and the swelling and 
perfecting of their crops. There are several advertised which are excel¬ 
lent for their respective purposes, and may bo applied at rates varying 
from 4 ozs. to ^ lb, per square yard at intervals of three to 
six weeks. It is better, however, to supply half quantities at less 
distant intervals, and it is best to afford due moisture by watering and 
then use the fertiliser and work it in moderately. A dressing may be 
given as soon as the Vines start into growth, a second when they are 
going out of blossom, another after the Grapes have been thinned, a 
fourth during stoning, and a final one when the Grapes commence 
the last swelling, or just before or when beginning to colour. Liquid 
manure is more prompt in action than a top-dressing, and may be 
supplied whenever watering is required, taking care that it is not too 
strong and is warmed to the mean temperature of the house. Vines 
restricted to narrow borders will need higher feeding than those with 
larger rooting areas, affording liquid manure whenever water is requisite, 
but it is well to change the food occasionally. A mulching of short, 
sweet, lumpy manure, as stable litter freed of straw, about an inch 
thick, and added to from time to time so as to maintain that thickness, 
is excellent for ordinary borders, but those composed of light, porous 
materials should have a mulching of well decayed manure, as it lies 
closer and the roots of the Vines are attracted to it through its retaining 
moisture better and longer. 
Late Vines. —If started in February they will be swelling their buds 
and have the whole season before them. Use the syringe twice a day, 
seeking to insure a good start by closing the house with a genial humid 
but not saturated atmosphere at a temperature of 75°. The canes of 
young Vines having been fixed in a horizontal position the buds will 
break evenly, if not depress their points still more. Let the inside 
border be brought into a thoroughly moist but not sodden condition. 
The outside border will be sufficiently protected by a fine tilth of soil, 
or if very firm and close at the surface a light mulch of lumpy, partially 
decayed material will protect the young fibres from chill and accelerate 
surface rooting while feeding the Vines. When lumpy and not more 
than a couple of inches thick it is of great benefit in preserving uniform 
moisture, while admitting of the free access of the sun’s warmth and of 
rain and air. 
Large Varieties of Grapes. —Start any houses of these without 
further delay, especially the thick-skinned varieties, as a long period of 
growth is required to produce highly finished fruit with good keeping 
qualities. Syringe the rods twice a day, or maintain a moist atmosphere 
by damping the floors in dull weather, as it is not advisable to keep 
the Vines constantly wet. It is decidedly advantageous to cover the 
inside borders with a little fresh stable litter freed from straw, and add 
to it from time to time so as to insure an atmosphere charged perceptibly 
with ammonia. Night temperature 50° to 55°, 55° by day artificially, 
and 65° from sun heat. 
Late Hamburgh Houses. —For affording the latest supply of these 
and similar thin-skinned Grapes allow the Vines to break naturally. 
If the Grapes are thinned by early June, and the fruit ripened by the 
end of September, it will suffice. Ripened earlier they are liable to 
lose colour and quality by hanging, which is not peculiar to Black 
Hamburgh but to all Grapes with thin skins, though black Grapes lose 
colour more decisively than the so called white varieties. 
Young Vines. — Those planted last year and cutback to the bottom 
of the rafters or trellis at the winter pruning must be encouraged by 
gentle fire heat, to allow time for their making and perfecting a good 
growth. The latorala should have their points pinched out at the first 
leaf to a height of 6 feet up the canes, which will cause the buds in the 
axils of the principal leaves to form fruit buds and become plump for 
next season’s fruiting, but above that height they may be allowed to 
grow. It is a better plan, however, to stop the cane at about 7 feet 
6 inches, train a lateral from it as a continuation, stop this at 3 feet, and 
so on until the top of the house is reached, stopping all laterals to one 
joint and sub-laterals to one leaf as made. This secures thoroughly 
solidified growth and a stout cane from the base upwards. 
Planting Young Vines. —This should be done when they are starting 
into growth and not more advanced than an inch or so. Where 
provision has been made for inside and outside borders the Vines should 
be planted in the former, which will be sufficient for several years, as 
a width of 4 feet is ample the first year, and about 2 feet width can be 
added annually. Some growers prefer to do this every second or third 
year, adding to the border about 4 to 6 feet width. The Vines, if cut¬ 
backs of last year, may be shaken out and placed in position, either 
before or after they have grown to the extent of an inch or two, the 
loots being disentangled and spread out evenly in the border, covering 
them about 3 inches deep, and watering moderately to settle the soil 
about them. Vines of the present year’s raising will not need to be 
planted for some time yet. They are preferably raised in squares of 
turf, and may be planted when the roots are protruding through the 
sides, the breaking of the rootlets extending beyond favouring a fibrous 
root formation, or if in pots they should be turned out before they 
become root-bound. They will require to have a temperature at 
planting suitable to Vines in growth, that is 60° to 65° at night and 70° 
to 75° by day, with an advance of 10° to 15° from sun heat. Vines of 
last year, however, should be allowed to start unaided, syringing them 
two or three times a day according to the weather, and ventilating 
freely at 65°, with a little from 50°. 
Vines for Early Fruiting vi Pots. —Cut-backs of last year’s raising 
should receive their final shift, so as to allow time for them to make and 
perfect a good growth early. The pots (12 inches in diameter) must be 
clean, efficiently drained, and have a layer of the roughest of the 
compost on the drainage. Avoid bones as they favour eelworm. Pot 
firmly in good fibry loam with about a tenth of old mortar rubbish, a 
quart each of soot and Thomas’ phosphate, and half a gallon of wood 
ashes to each barrowful of loam. Bottom heat is not necessary, but if 
they are plunged it should not exceed 80° to 85°, and they must not 
remain in that so long that the roots enter the plunging material. Keep 
the house rather close, and if the weather be bright shade for a few 
days. Train the canes about 1 foot distance from the glass, and give all 
the light practicable to insure the solidification of the growths. Pinch 
the laterals at the first joint, and subsequent growths treat similarly, 
stopping the cane at about 8 feet, and stop the laterals from the upper¬ 
most joints a little less closely, so as to prevent the principal buds being 
started. 
THE KITCHEN GARDEN. 
Asparagus. —Where the soil is of a retentive nature sowing 
Asparagus seed should be delayed till it has become drier and warmer, 
and in transplanting fewer failures occur after rather than before top 
growth has commenced, It does rot follow, however, that the sites for 
either seed or roots should not be prepared in anticipation of sowing or 
planting time. On the contrary, an early opportunity ought to be taken 
in preparing the ground or beds, so that the work of sowing or planting 
may be done expeditiously and well. Medium to light soils with a 
warm fairly holding subsoil best suit Asparagus, and in this case it may 
be grown on the level; but if the soil is of a somewhat clayey nature 
raised beds are decidedly the best. Ordinary bastard trenching, with 
good manure freely mixed with both spits, is all the preparation warm 
light soils need. When raised beds are decided upon these may be 
either 4 feet' wide and hold three rows of plants, or 3 feet wide and hold 
two rows, allowing 2 feet alleys in each instance. Stake out the beds 
and then throw out the top spit right and left. Should the subsoil be 
clay, wheel away a good spit of this and substitute a mixture of mortar 
rubble, decayed garden rubbish, half-decayed stable manure, road 
trimmings, and any other free soil procurable. On this return the top 
spit, mixing with this some of the materials indicated. By the time the 
beds have settled somewhat, sowing or planting may be done. Beds 
may be formed on the surface of clay if the latter is well drained while 
gravelly or loamy subsoils may be improved by the addition of some or 
all of the previously mentioned materials. Warmth and a moderate 
amount of moisture are of more consequence than richness accompanied 
by excessive cold and moisture. 
Jerusalem Artichokes. —Although these can be and often are 
grown for several years in succession on the same plot of ground, they 
succeed better and the tubers are of superior quality when a change of 
site is given. In any case there should be some system of culture 
adopted. Allowing the plants to come up how and where they like is a 
slovenly proceeding. These Artichokes are suitable for planting in plots 
outside of the garden walls, but in a young state must be protected from 
rabbits. Give them the benefit of freely manured, deeply dug soil, and 
plant 12 inches apart, 6 inches deep, in rows 3 feet asunder, taking care 
not to break the strongest sprout when covering with soil. The new 
white-skinned form is the best in every way. Old tubers should be 
cleared of sprouts and stored in moist sand for present and future use. 
Clilnese Artlcbokes. — Stachys tuberifera, better known as 
Chinese Artichokes, soon shrink when out of the ground. Undug they 
are perfectly hardy, and are liable to become a nuisance. Left to them¬ 
selves they come up very thickly and spread rapidly, every true tuber 
growing. Already top growth has commenced, and no time should be 
lost, therefore, in forming fresh beds. These ought to be raised rather 
above the ordinary level, and be both fairly rich and free working. They 
may be 4 feet wide with 1 foot alleys between, and hold three rows of 
plants. Open drills 3 inches deep and plant the tubers 9 inches apart. 
Globe Artichokes. —Old clumps that have been heavily protected 
with litter should have this removed, but not so as to suddenly expose 
the half-blanched growth to the action of easterly or other cold winds. 
Another fortnight or three weeks will be soon enough for forming fresh 
plantations, but the site may well be prepared in advance. No crop 
better repays for high culture. It is the more vigorous young plants 
that prepuce the finest, most succulent heads in abundance and long 
succession, and it is a good practice to root out a row or a few old 
clumps, and insert a corresponding number of young plants each season. 
They ought to have ground double dug and heavily manured, mixing 
some of the latter with each spit. Seedling Artichokes vary surprisingly, 
and not more than one-quarter of them are ot any value. 
Early Broccoli, Autumn Cauliflower, and Brussels Sprouts. 
—In order to be certain of abundance of plants of Veitch’s Autumn or 
other early Broccoli, other than Snow’s Winter (this is best sown late in 
April) as well as Autumn Giant and Eclipse Cauliflowers and Brussels 
