March 29,1894, 
JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 
249 
to secure a length of wood with four buds the shoots must be cut 
accordingly. Those which have been lengthened through being 
shaded or growing in crowded parts of a tree are unsuitable. Short- 
jointed wood ought to be secured if possible. 
Crown or Rind Grafting. —This mode is adopted with large old 
trees which are headed down near to the main stems for the purpose of 
being worked with better varieties. Only healthy, vigorous-rooted trees 
ought to be grafted, as it is a waste of time to work feeble or diseased 
trees. It is difficult besides to operate on trees of the latter character, 
particularly if branches are cankered or rough. 
Pregjaring the Stocks. —All branches over an inch or two in diameter 
are best worked on this method, because several grafts can be placed on one 
stock. It is usual to shorten large branches in the winter or some short time 
previous to the grafting period,not necessarily to the exact place where 
grafts are intended to be inserted, but near to that point, so that when 
the time actually arrives the stock needs no further preparation than 
a small slice of wood removing. The bark lifts freely near fresh cuts, 
because better supplied with sap in circulation. In this form of graft¬ 
ing cut the stocks transversely, leaving the wood and the edges of the 
bark very smooth. The slits in the bark for receiving the scions may 
be made perpendicularly, 2 inches in length, commencing at the top and 
cutting just through the bark. 
Preparing the Scions. —The scions should be of the same character 
as regards ripeness and having dormant buds as for other forms of 
grafting. The previous year’s wood is the best, being young, straight and 
easily manipulated. Make a slanting cut down one side, the same 
length from the base as the slit in the stock. At the upper point of the 
cut remove a small portion of wood inwards so as to form a seat for 
resting the scion securely upon the stock when inserted. 
Uniting Stocks and Scions. —In all forms of grafting the greatest 
care is necessary in exactly joining the inner barks or albuminous tissue 
of stock and scion. It is through this important part of the wood 
known as the cambium layer that the sap chiefly circulates, therefore the 
exact juxtaposition of the living cells is needful in seeuring the proper 
adhesion and completing a permanent union. In some cases this exact 
joining cannot be eflEected on both sides, but, if possible, it should, in 
order that a truer and stronger cohesion may be accomplished. If 
impossible to join on both sides careful attention must be given to one 
side, or failure will result. In whip grafting it is not difficult when the 
stock and scion are each of equal size. 
In crown grafting the joining is readily done, so long as the scion is 
not made too thin and the graft held in position. Gently raise the bark 
on eaeh side of the slit with a hardwood or ivory wedge just enough to 
admit the scion, which carefully press down until seated on the stock. 
In one form of crown grafting the leftside of the scion is slightly pared, 
and when inserted in the slit the prepared side exactly joins the edge 
of the cut in the stock, the bark not being lifted on that side at all, 
but on the opposite side it is raised to admit the scion easily. 
Tying and Claying. —The next process is to firmly tie in the grafts 
with raffia grass, not too tightly, but so that the junction is not spoiled ; 
then cover with grafting wax or a composition of clay and cow manure 
thoroughly mixed and worked into a plastic mass. The object is to 
exclude air and retain moisture. The latter acts well when it does not 
frequently crack and fall away. Should it do so the apertures must be 
quickly closed again. Grafting wax is usually preferred, though many 
adhere to the clay and manure. 
FRUIT FORCING. 
Peacbes and ITectarlnes. — Earliest Forced Houses. —The very 
early varieties, such as Alexander, Waterloo, Early Beatrice, and Early 
Louise will soon give indications of ripening, when syringing must 
cease, and the leaves that shade the fruit be drawn aside, raising the 
fruit, if necessary, on laths placed across the wires of the trellis, so that 
its apex will be directly to the light. Do not hurry such varieties as 
Hale’s Early, Stirling Castle. Royal George, and Dymond Peaches, or Early 
Rivers, Lord Napier and Elruge Nectarines during the stoning process, 
but continue the temperature at 60° to 65° at night, 70° to 75° by day with 
sun heat, and about 65° by day in dull weather, avoiding sudden 
fiuctuations and depressions. Tie the shoots to the trellis as they 
advance, and regulate the growths for future bearing so as not to have 
them too crowded, as by giving the shoots ample room the fruit is 1 
better exposed to the sun and air, and the wood for another year j 
is stouter and better ripened. Shoots disposed to grow more than J 
11 inches may have the points pinched off, but extensions should be 
trained in their full length. When the stoning process is over, which may 
be ascertained by testing a few fruits with a knife, the crop will require 
regulating for the final swelling. Very vigorous trees may be allowed 
to carry more than one fruit to each square foot of trellis, while 
weakly trees should not be permitted to bear so many. Supply liquid 
manure to weakly trees, the inside border in any case being kept 
properly watered, mulching the surface with a little well-decayed 
manure. This will secure uniform moisture and favour the surface 
roots. 
Trees Started at the New Year. —The fruit should be thinned to few 
more than is required for the crop. Avoid sudden checks by judicious 
ventilation, cold air in the daytime and a high temperature at niaht 
proving fatal to the fruit stoning. A night temperature of 60° to 6.5°, 
5° less on cold nights, and 65° by day in dull weather, with 70° to 75° 
from sun heat is quite sufficient. 
Trees Started Early in February. —Syringe the trees occasionally in 
dull weather and twice daily in bright, but avoid heavy synngings, 
especially late in the afternoon, as the water remaining long on the 
leaves interferes with their elaborating functions, and may destroy the 
tissues. Allow a night temperature of 55° to 60° in mild weather, venti¬ 
lating from 65°, permitting an advance to 70° or 75° from sun heat, but 
with full ventilation. Attend to disbudding, and follow it up day by 
day until only the shoots required for future bearing or the extension of 
the trees are retained. A shoot must be left at the base of those now 
bearing, and another on a level with or above the fruit. If the latter is 
not required for extension it should be stopped at a few joints of growth. 
In the case of trees not full grown it will be necessary to leave shoots 
about 15 inches apart, calculating from the base of the last year’s 
growth, to form the bearing shoots of next year, the terminals being 
trained in their full length as space permits. Avoid crowding the 
growths, as they then become weak and unfruitful. Commence 
thinning the fruit when they start sw'elling, removing the smallest 
first and those on the under side of the trellis, beginning with the 
weakest part of the trees, thinning proportionately more than on 
stronger wood, whieh from carrying more fruit will tend to equalise the 
vigour of the tree. Laying in the shoots requires to be done early and 
carefully, so as not to bring down the shoots too sharply, yet it is 
necessary for giving the right direction to the growths, and in securing 
the growths to the trellis space must be left for their swelling. 
Trees Started in March. —While the trees are in blossom it is not 
desirable to syringe them, but a genial condition of the atmosphere may 
be secured by damping available surfaces in the morning and early 
afternoon. Prevent a vitiated atmosphere by providing a little air 
constantly through the top ventilators. Maintain the night temperature 
at 50°, falling 5° or more through the night in severe weather, 50° to 55° 
by day, and 65° from sun heat. 
Latest Houses. —The blossoms being abundant, remove those on the 
under side of the shoots. Shake the trees daily from the first pollen 
ripening until the last of the blossom requires attention, selecting the 
early part of fine days when artificial impregnation is resorted to, and it 
is a good plan to dust every blossom, when the pollen is ripe, with a 
camel-hair brush, a feather, rabbit’s tail mounted on a stick, or small 
plume of Pampas Grass. Any trees deficient of pollen should have it 
taken from those affording some plentifully, such as the small-flowered 
varieties. Royal George Peach and Elruge Nectarine. Maintain the 
temperature at 40° to 45° at night, 50° to 55° by day, in all cases 
aecompanied by slight ventilation at the top of the house, which must 
be increased when the temperature reaches 50°, and full at 65°. 
Unheated Houses. —The trees are coming into blossom. Ventilate 
the house at 50°, and do not permit an advance above 65° without full 
ventilation top and bottom, and close the house at 50° in mild weather, 
but when there is a prospect of frost at night close at 65°, leaving a 
little air to allow of moisture escaping. In mild weather leave the 
ventilators open constantly when the temperature exceeds 50°. Remove 
the blossoms on the under side of the shoots where there is a super¬ 
abundance. 
IVIelons. —The earliest plants will have fruits set or setting on the 
first laterals. A rather drier atmosphere and no more water than to 
prevent flagging, with an increase of temperature of about 5°, and a 
circulation of warm air, are desirable during the setting period. The 
flowers should be fertilised every day when fully expanded, pinching 
out the points of the shoots one or two joints beyond the fruit. When 
the fruits are set, and about the size of a Walnut, give the bed a 
thorough watering, and in a day or two add soil to the sides of the 
ridges or hillocks, pressing it firmly, and again supply water. Both the 
soil and water should be warmed to the temperature of the bed. Stop 
the subsequent growths to one or tvo joints, and prevent overcrowding 
by rubbing off shoots for which there is not room for tie foliage to 
have full exposure to light. If the bottom heat be increased 5°, or to 
85°, it will assist the swelling of the fruit. Do not overcrop the plants, 
but leave the fruit proportionate to the vigour—two on weakly, three or 
fdur on vigorous, and very strong plants may carry six fruits. The 
night temperature may be 70°, 75° by day, ventilating from that point, 
increasing to 85° or 90°, closing at 85° sufficiently early to increase to 
90°, or 95° or 100°. Damp the bouse in the morning, syringe moderately 
by or before three o’clock on bright warm afternoons, damping available 
surfaces in the evening. Keep the evaporation troughs filled with liquid 
manure, failing these, sprinkle the floor occasionally in the evening with 
liquid manure. Plants in narrow beds will require plenty of liquid 
nourishment, alwajs in advance of the mean temperature of the house, 
and top-dressings of rich material. 
Successional Plants. —Train the growths regularly, remove every 
alternate lateral, rubbing them off directly they are perceived, the 
remainder being trained to the right and left of the main stem. Pinch 
out the points of the primary growths after they have extended two- 
thirds of the required distance. Increase the supply of moisture both at 
the roots and in the atmosphere as the days lengthen. Pot seedlings, 
shift into larger pots, and plant out as required. Sow more seeds to 
afford plants in proportion to the wants of individual establishments. In 
pits and frames a bottom heat of 80° should be secured to plants that 
are growing freely, renewing the linings as required. In newly made 
beds the bottom heat should be about 90°. 
Cucumbers. —Shade will be necessary from bright sun, but it 
should only be used for a few hours at the hottest part of the day, and 
only sufficient to prevent flagging. Assist plants in full bearing with 
fiequent applications of weak tepid liquid manure, and add fresh 
warmed soil to the beds occasionally. Plants in bearing for any great 
length of time should have the old exhausted soil removed with a small 
