268 
JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 
April 5,1894 
For a box of cut flower?, twelve varieties, Mr. J. Gore was first, 
Mr. E. Meachen, second, and Mr. G. Hart, third. 
The miscellaneous exhibits were fairly numerous, of excellent quality, 
and included a handsome group of flowering plants from Messrs. 
W. Balchin & Son, Hassocks Nurseries ; Apples and Pears in grand 
condition from Messrs. J. Cheal & Sons, Crawley ; seeds and Potatoes 
from Messrs. Tilley Bros., Brighton ; horticultural sundries from Messrs. 
Palmer & Co., Brighton ; specimens of art pottery from Messrs. W. Meeds 
and Co., Burgess Hill; Apples and Grapes from Mr. A. Kemp; charming 
Roses from Mr. C. Kilmister, Steyning ; Stocks from Messrs. W. Miles 
and Co., and a table of superb plants, including two extraordinary 
specimens of Dendrobium nobile, Streptocarpuses, and Ferns from Mr. 
H. C. Prinsep, The Gardens, Buxted Park. 
FRUIT FORCING. 
Fig’S. — Earliest Forced Trees in Pots. —The fruit of such varieties 
as Early Violet and St. John’s are now showing signs of ripening ; 
syringing must cease, and a lessened supply of water given, or the fruit 
will be insipid and in danger of decay. A circulation of warm air is 
necessary for securing well flavoured Pigs. The temperature should 
be 60° to 65° at night, 70° to 75° by day from fire heat, 80° to 85° with 
sun, advancing 5° to 10° after closing, admitting air or increasing it 
from 75°, closing at 80° to 85°. Trees swelling their fruit, such as 
White Marseilles and Brown Turkey, must be well supplied with water 
and top-dressings of rich compost, continuing to syringe until the fruit 
show signs of colouring. 
Planted-ont Trees Started Early in the Year. —Remove superfluous 
growths, stopping a fair amount of shoots at about the fifth leaf to form 
spurs, but avoid overcrowding, and attend to tying-in the shoots, 
allowing space for growth. Surface roots should be encouraged by a 
mulching of lumpy manure, which will prove beneficial if kept moist 
both by attracting the roots to the surface and affording nourishment. 
Liberal supplies of water or liquid manure will be necessary to assist 
the fruit in swelling satisfactorily. The temperature should be 
increased to 60° to 65° at night, and in the daytime from 75° to 80° with 
sun heat. Syringe the trees freely on fine days so as to keep red spider 
in check, but avoid keeping the foliage wet late in the day. 
Cherry House. —If the trees are heavily laden with fruit the 
demand for nutriment will be greater, as such trees will be less vigorous 
than those with few fruits, and whilst the former will be benefited by 
the application of liquid manure, the latter should have clear water. A 
good soaking of those elements most suited to the trees should be given, 
and as often as required, to maintain the soil in a thoroughly moist 
condition. Inside borders are most suitable for trees subjected to early 
forcing, as they afford a better temperature, more corresponding to that 
in which the trees are growing, and rendering the progress of the crop 
more certain and satisfactory, provided due regard be paid to affording 
the needful supplies of water. Attend to ventilation and temperature, 
admitting air from 50° and liberally at 65°. Syringe the trees twice a 
day, and keep the surface of the border damped. When the shoots have 
made four or five joints they should have the points taken out so as to 
form spurs, but those required for furnishing the trees ought to be tied 
in position early, and be carefully trained in their full length. Aphides 
must be kept under by repeated fumigation, as if they obtain a hold 
they are not only diflScult to exterminate, but spoil the appearance of 
the fruit. 
Pines. — Suckers or Plants Started Early in March. —These will now 
require attention. The pots must be full of roots, but before the plants 
are root-bound shift them into 10, 11, or 12-inGh pots, watering them a 
day or two previously, so as to have the soil moderately moist when 
they are potted. Take advantage of the removal of the plants to 
examine the beds, replenishing them if need be by the addition of fresh 
tan, mixing it with the old to a depth that will afford the temperature 
required—viz., 95° at the base of the pots until the roots reach the 
sides, when 90° is more suitable. Keep the air about such plants 
well charged with moisture during the time the house is closed, 
employing no more fire heat than is absolutely necessary to maintain a 
temperature of 70° to 75° on mild nights. Ventilate slightly at 80°, 
liberally at 90°, closing with sun heat at 85°, at which time syringe the 
plants. This treatment will be suitable for fruiting plants, except such 
as are in bloom, which should not be syringed. Examine the plants 
twice a week, and water those that require it. 
Plants Started into Fruit Early in the Year. — These are fast 
approaching the flowering period, and will be benefited by an occasional 
sprinkling at the time the house is closed ; but when in flower they 
must not be so treated. The foliage being as yet tender, it will be 
desirable in the case of houses with large panes of glass to afford a 
slight shading for an hour or two in the hottest part of the day for 
a few weeks until the foliage becomes inured to the sun’s influence. 
When the flowering is over the fruit will advance rapidly if the roots 
are in good condition, and plentiful supplies of weak liquid manure will 
be requisite. Attend to ventilating early in the morning commencing 
when the temperature is at 80°, an 1 clc.'-ing at 85° with tua heat. Keep 
the atmosphere moist when the house is closed and the bottom heat is 
steady at 80° to 90°, night temperature 70°, and 75° by day artificially. 
As the suckers appear, remove all but one to each plant. 
Vines. — Annual System of Early Forcing. —Vines in pots afford 
creditable early Grapes, but better results are obtained by planting 
them out in beds of 3 to i feet width, and about 2 feet depth, so as to 
admit of 6 inches of rubble and a 3-inch layer of old mortar rubbish 
over it, and 15 inches depth of soil. To carry out the system success¬ 
fully light, well heated, three-quarter span-roofed structures facing 
south are necessary. Cut-back Vines forwarded in another structure 
are the most suitable. They may consist of Black Hamburgh, Foster’s 
Seedling, and Madresfield Court. They should be placed in their 
fruiting quarters by the early part of May, when the Vines that have 
fruited are cleared out, fresh soil is placed in the borders or beds, 
planting those that are to iruit the following year 27 to 30 inches apart. 
As they will have made considerable progress and be in 12-inch pots turn 
them out with the ball entire, firming the soil well about them. Turfy 
loam with the addition of a quart of soot or some other approved 
fertiliser to each bushel forms a suitable compost. Extra food' can be 
given in top-dressings or in liquid form. The canes being trained about 
1 foot from the glass will make short-jointed wood. The laterals should 
be pinched at every joint of growth, and the cane stopped about 
12 inches beyond where it is proposed to shorten it for fruiting, 6 to 7 feet 
6 inches length of good cane being ample. Under good management 
the Vines will make stout canes, and being as much under control as 
Vines in pots they can be matured so as to be ready for starting by late 
October or early in November to ripen Grapes in late March or early in 
April. The root action being considerably extended as compared with 
Vines in pots the crops are finer. 
Grapes Ripening. —As the fruit swells considerably after com¬ 
mencing to colour, inside borders should have a thorough supply of 
water early on a fine day, ventilating early to allow excessive moisture 
to escape. With a full crop of early Grapes the Vines are severely 
taxed, and perfection in colouring is not always attained. Much may 
be effected by a liberal and constant supply of warm dry air combined 
with a moderately low night temperature, but 70° to 75° from fire heat 
and 80° to 85° with sun heat must be well maintained by day. Red 
spider generally makes its appearance in early forced vineries, and may 
be kept from spreading if the first attacks are removed with a sponge 
and softsoapy water. When the attack is general the hot-water pipes 
should be coated with a mixture of sulphur and skim milk after heating 
them to 170°. Do not use too much, however, or it will injure the skin 
of the Grapes. 
Succession Houses. —Attend to thinning the bunches and berries. 
Stop and remove laterals, especially where there is not room for extension, 
as to allow them to extend considerably, or so as to necessitate large 
reductions of foliage at one time, results in a check, and may induce 
shanking at a later period. Afford plentiful supplies of water to inside 
borders ; weakly Vines will be benefited by the application of tepid 
liquid manure. Vines swelling their fruit should have a moist atmo¬ 
sphere, damping the border and paths two or three times a day, especially 
at closing time. Syringing the Vines must not be practised after the 
Grapes are set. 
Rate Vines. —Disbud and tie out the shoots as they require it. Close 
the houses early in the afternoon with sun heat, and maintain plenty of 
atmospheric moisture by frequently damping available surfaces. The 
Vines are now making rapid progress, and promise well. 
Young Vines. —Those planted last spring will now be breaking 
naturally, and when the buds have grown about half an inch a little 
fire heat will prove beneficial, especially on cold days. Remove all buds 
except one at each break, retaining the strongest and crop lightly, but 
supernumeraries may be weighted with as much fruit as there is a 
prospect of their bringing to maturity. 
THE FLOWER GARDEN. 
Tuberous Begonias. —The old tubers should be kept steadily 
growing till wanted for the flower beds. They ought never to be 
subjected to much heat, nor see the inside of small flower pots. Start 
them either in a frame over a nearly exhausted hotbed, or in boxes 
and deep pans in a warm pit, newly started vinery or Peach house. 
Use a fairly rich compost, and be careful not to over-water and sour 
this at the outset. They may be placed rather thickly together, and 
given more room when growing strongly, or be kept well a part from the 
first, and all can then be eventually transplanted to the beds with a 
good ball of soil and roots attached. When the young shoots are about 
1 inch in length the tubers may be safely split up into as many pieces 
as there are well-divided shoots. Surround these divisions with sharp 
sand and a light loamy compost, place in gentle heat, and water 
sparingly at first. All will soon develop into strong plants, and do well 
for the centres of beds, this year’s seedlings if need be occupying the 
front rows. The latter should also be kept out of pots, as they rarely 
move well from these. When they are getting too large for the pans in 
which they are thickly pricked out shift them into other pans or boxes, 
and from these to a bed of soil over a mild hotbed. Gentle rather than 
a strong dry heat best suits seedlings as well as old plants ; shade from 
bright sunshine also must be afforded. 
Bedding Pelargoniums. —When these are shifted from store pots 
or pans into either small pots singly or into boxes they ought to be 
kept for a time in a warm house, nothing answering better than a 
vinery gently forced. If hastened forward now they can be removed 
