278 
JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 
April 12, 1894 
typical Japanese bloom. That is a simple, easily understood and 
remembered definition—mentioned as calculated to do justice to the 
blooms, and to lead to uniformity in adjudication. 
Relative to methods of judging, Mr. Shea is clearly in favour of the 
“ points and marks ” system where pointing is resorted to, as it must be 
in close competition. It is quite true that experienced growers and 
judges with well trained “ Chrysanthemum eyes” can form a very good 
idea of the relative merits of competing stands without pointing, but 
they cannot judge with exactitude, nor can they show that the decisions 
are right in very close competition. 
The “point and mark” system was set forth in the Journal of 
Horticulture five years ago—an article that Mr. Shea had not read when 
he wrote his excellent paper. Examples are there given (page 486, 
December 8th, 1887) on the use and working of the plan. Without for 
a moment suggesting that the relative merits of competing stands 
cannot be arrived at with a near approach to accuracy in the customary 
way of careful adjudicators, it is all the same certain that the division 
of the integers leads to more exact results. The full point method can 
only be accepted as satisfactory on the “ as fair to one as another ” 
principle, if a principle it be, whereas by the method advocated by Mr. 
Shea the finer differences in merit are “ caught” and set down in figures, 
and the work rests on a clearly defined scientific basis. By no other 
plan yet devised can the full merits of a bloom be extracted so well. 
For elucidation it is called the “ shilling and pence plan.” A point 
is regarded as a shilling. In judging it is quite common to give “half 
points,” and even then there is often a good deal of hesitation and time 
lost in deciding. As half a shilling is 6d., so surely it is as easy to 
divide a 6d. in two parts of 3d. Take a bloom of say Lord Alcester, 
Edwin Molyneux, or any other. A sanguine judge (A) may say 
“ 6 points.” “No,” rejoins his cautious colleague (B), “ it cannot be, 
for there is one better, and 6 is the maximum, I say 5 points,” 
“Never,” retorts A. “Very well,” answers B, “let’s half it;” but 
A still demurs, and says it is worth “ something more,” How is the 
compromise to be effected ? Very easily, and much more quickly than it 
has taken the men to argue the matter. Divide a point into four 
marks—a shilling into four threepences—and the thing is done. 
Take for example four blooms :— 
If No. 1 is worth a little more than 5 points, but 
not 5J, put it down at . 
If No. 2 is worth half a point more, enter it 
If No. 3 is worth a little more than this, say 
If No. 4 is practically faultless, let it be so entered 
In practice the work is usually done mentally, in 
“threes”—reading the blooms across a stand 
and setting down the total, say back bloom, 
5s. 3d. (5|), middle, 4s. 9d. (4f), front, 4s. 3d. 
(4i) ; total. 
On the half point system the verdict would 
probably be, 5J, 5, 4 . 
On the full point system we might expect, 5, 5, 4 
Points. 
53. 3d.= 5i 
53. 6d.= 5i 
53. 9d. = 5| 
63. Od. = 6 
148. 3d. = 14i 
149, 6d. = 14*- 
14s. 0d. = 14 
In the discrepancy thus revealed who shall say that the true 
value is not 149. 3d., or 14^ points? Follow the example 
through a forty-eight stand, and we find the full point 
system would give .146 
The half point method would total ... ... ... ... 154 
The quarter point judging (shillings and threepences) ... 158 
Again, who shall say the exhibitor is not as entitled to the full value 
of his skill as represented by the merits of his blooms as he would be 
entitled to the exact change due to him out of a shilling ? 
It may be said, “ If all stands are judged by full points it would be 
fair to all; ” but there is obviously a greater liability to under or over¬ 
estimate some of the blooms by this than the other systems. Practically 
there might be nothing wrong on the half point routine (and this, at 
least, should always be resorted to), though accuracy rests in the further 
sub-division. 
As to celerity versus tediousness. The most tedious judges are those 
who march to and fro a hundred times, comparing this bloom with that, 
sometimes getting confused in the process, and then giving a haphazard 
verdict. 
By working (1) on the full point system, judges are longer in 
deciding on the merits of several blooms than when working (2) on the 
half point plan, while judges who are used to the quarter point (or four 
threepenny marks) system are the quickest of all in arriving at 
unanimity. If the value of every individual bloom is set down in 
figures, then the last-named method is not only the best, but the 
quickest; but unless a judge is a swift and sure mental calculator (as 
the writer is not), then the triplet method of counting on the half point 
system would enable him to get through the classes sooner. 
In these remarks there is no desire to press the claims of any 
particular method, but to explain the nature of the one that Mr. Shea 
prefers, and which, as is apparent by the discussion as published in the 
N.C.S. Report, is not in the least understood by some persons, and not 
quite comprehended by some others. Mr. E. Molyneux understands it 
very well, so does Mr. G. Gordon (and he knows where it withstood a 
crucial ordeal when a 20-guinea cup was in question), while Mr. 
J, Udale, an aoute Judge, who after practising it, recorded his opinion 
that “ nothing could be more perfect, practical, and simple.” He 
should have added “ up to date,” because nothing is “ perfect ” in this 
reference. 
The whole subject will doubtless have full and careful consideration, 
with the object of, as far as is practicable, ensuring uniformity in 
judging with accuracy, and the N.C.S. has at its command the men for 
the emergency.—J. Wright. 
LESSONS FOU YOUNG GARDENERS. 
Voting gardeners will do well to read and study the leading article 
in Journal of Horticulture for Jlarch 29tb, and to follow up the 
advice given on the various duties relating to gardening. In large 
establishments the work is very often divided into departments, such as 
fruit houses, plant houses, kitchen garden. In many places the glass 
houses are situated some distance from the kitchen garden, which makes 
it rather difficult to get an insight a? to work accomplished there. More¬ 
over, as a rule, most beginners like the glass department best, and seem 
to think that work in the kitchen garden is of a more menial kind. 
I well remember in my first place the head gardener telling me that 
if I wanted to become a good gardener I should have to take interest in 
outside work as well as under glass, for one of the most important duties 
of a gardener was to produce plenty of good vegetables. Young men that 
are interested in the work can generally find ways and means of gaining 
knowledge on all branches of gardening, even if they are engaged in one 
department only, for “ where there’s a will there’s a way.” 
Stoking is a very important point in connection with air-giving. 
Sun power should always be made the most use of, it being better than 
artificial heat. It is a mistake to have the pipes so hot as to ntcessitate 
opening the ventilators more than is required to maintain the maximum 
temperature, as well as being a waste of fuel ; but, at the same time, the 
fires should be attended to early enough in the afternoon or when the 
sun declines to keep up the proper temperature. 
Drawing should form part of a gardener’s education, for he is often 
called upon to make alterations or to lay out flower be Is. In building 
glass houses and other garden structures, as well as the arrangements of 
heating apparatus, a gardener should always know exactly what be 
wants, and be able to draw out a plan to a given scale, as well as to 
accomplish work from a plan drawn to sc ile. 
All young gardeners should keep a diary of their work, and as much 
as possible of that done by others, which they will find extremely useful 
for future reference as intimated by your correspondent. It will also 
induce greater interest in their work, as well as giving expression of 
communicating what they do to others. The diary should be kept in a 
systematic way ; seed-sowing, planting, when gathered, and remarks on 
crops ought to be written in separate columns. For the guidance of those 
who may be in doubt as to the best way to proceed I may say that a 
book about the width of foolscap is best, each page being divided into 
sections. On the left hand column the date should be placed, next the 
time cf planting or sowing may be ruled, and on the right hand keep 
records when the crops were gathered and remarks on them.— 
J. S. UpeX; Wigganthorpe, Yorh. 
I 
CHINESE PRIMULAS. 
The time has now arrived for an early sowing of Primulas to be 
made. In gardens where a long succession of bloom is required 
throughout the autumn, winter and spring months, it is necessary to 
sow at intervals until the end of June, the latter sowing supplying 
plants for late spring decoration. Few plants are more useful for winter 
work than Primula sinensis and its varieties, and it is therefore not at 
all surprising to find them generally grown. 
Before sowing the seeds, be sure that the pans are well drained. 
This is very important. Use a compost of about equal parts of leaf 
mould, fibry loam, peat and sand, pressing the soil but moderately firm, 
then apply with boiling water, and when this has thoroughly drained 
away, the seeds may be sown, slightly covering them with some of the 
compost finely sifted, or sand. Place a piece of glass over the pan, 
which will help to retain the moisture, and at the same time afford 
protection from insects. Remove to a temperature of about 55° or 60°, 
which will soon cause the seeds to germinate quickly. If the atmo¬ 
sphere of the house or pit is moist, no water will be required until after 
the seeds have germinated, and then it must be given very carefully, or 
the tender seedlings will damp off. 
When the plants are in rough leaf, remove to a shelf in the green¬ 
house or to a frame, and when sufficiently hardened, place singly in 
small pots. Do not put the young plants too low in the pots, but allow 
the heart of each one to be well above the level of the sod. Should 
they appear loose, secure with a tiny stake and tie with matting. For the 
final potting use a compost of about equal parts of loam, leaf mould, 
and well decayed manure, with a liberal addition of gritty sand. Five 
or 6 inch pots are the most useful sizes, unless extra large plants are 
required, in which case the buds must be kept pinched out, until within 
a few weeks of their being required for a display of bloom. Shade from 
bright sun, but do not cause the plants to become drawn. Most young 
gardeners have the habit of throwing a mat across the frame, irrespec¬ 
tive of what kinds of plants are underneath. This is a mistake, some 
plants requiring a lighter degree of shade than others. Primulas included. 
Remove the lights on every favourable occasion, especially during the 
warm nights of summer and early autumn. The plants will strengthen 
considerably if so treated.— Hedley Warren. 
