April 12,1894. 
JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 
289 
origin and parentage of the natural hybrids which were to be found in 
euch numbers. They had to emulate what had been done before them 
by the gentlemen previously named, and who were remembered with 
gratitude by workers of to-day for the good work they had so well 
begun. 
The lecturer then proceeded to mention many varieties which were 
supposed to be species until the question was raised and a doubt ex¬ 
pressed by Dean Herbert, whom he considered one of the pioneers in the 
cross-fertilisation of Narcissi, N. montanui being quoted as a well 
known example, and the origin of which had since been proved, prac¬ 
tically beyond doubt, to be the result of a natural cross between 
N. poeticus and a white trumpet kind. Another instance was named in 
N. gracilis, a short cupped variety of much beauty, which was a cross 
between N. poeticus and N. Jonquilla. In determining the parentage of 
many varieties the lecturer bad found, as had doubtless many other 
successful hybridisers, that the scent was a very material assistance, it 
being transmitted to the hybrids often in a very marked degree. 
Numerous other results of crosses were mentioned, and the words 
admirably illustrated by many forms crossed by the lecturer gathered 
from his own garden for the purpose. In conclusion, he gave it as his 
opinion, gleaned from several years of experiments and incessant 
observation, that the effect of the pollen-bearing parent was pre¬ 
eminent, sometimes, especially in the case of N. poeticus, almost 
annihilating the other parent. 
At the close a vote of thanks was accorded to Mr. Engleheart for his 
instructive address, and to Dr. Masters for presiding. 
HARDY FRUIT GARDEN. 
Outdoor Figs. —If carefully and thinly trained during the previous 
summer and autumn there needs in spring but little pruning. Where 
the wood, however, is too thickly placed there cannot be a better time 
to remove the oldest and most unprofitable portions, which will afford 
space for young and vigorous shoots. Do not hesitate to dispense with 
any shoots which will crowd the trees. Fruitfulness on wall-trained 
trees is largely dependent on this, though the roots require at the same 
time a firm run in friable calcareous loam with a well-drained subsoil. 
In pruning do not shorten young shoots of last year, as upon these, 
towards the extremities, the fruit is borne. It is only in warm sheltered 
positions that Figs can be successfully cultivated on walls and gable 
ends, while still more favourable conditions are requisite for the cultiva¬ 
tion of standard trees in the open. If planting is contemplated prepare 
the ground, and plant one-year-old trees during the present month. 
Protecting Espalier Fruit Trees. —Should frosty nights ensue, 
or cold, wet, and otherwise unfavourable weather present itself during 
the time the blooms of choice trees are expanded, a little temporary 
protection will probably insure a set of fruit. Espalier trees, as a rule, 
not being high, are not difficult to cover effectually. Light hurdles, 
such as are used for folding sheep, may be utili ed ; one being placed 
down the side or front, another resting on the top and leaning over the 
trees towards the opposite side, where it may be supported by a pole at 
each end. The hurdles being thinly thatched with straw or dried bracken 
will afford sufficient protection. A similar arrangement of light poles 
or Bean sticks placed over the trees at intervals, and tied together at 
their junctions with one another, will afford rests for strips of tiffany 
or canvas, mats, or any material which will serve as temporary 
protection. 
Protecting Bush Trees. —For these, where not too large, the plan 
of tyiug three or four light poles together at one end, of a length 
sufficient to reach above the tops, spreading them out round each tree, 
answers well as a framework, upon which protecting materials can be 
easily wound or removed as necessary. 
Thinning Fruit Blossom.— tThis may appear a tedious operation 
to recommend, but it is one which might with advantage be performed 
on many trees that are developing an overplus of blossom. If any doubt 
exists as to the advantages arising from dispensing with two-thirds of 
the blossoms, try the experiment fairly on a few trees, and note the 
results in comparison with others left with the full burden of bloom. 
Blossom developing is an exhaustive process, and no tree can perfect it 
all when there is a superabundance. Thinning, therefore, is quite a 
rational proceeding, relieving the trees to a great extent, and at the 
same time strengthening the remaining flowers. Unsuitably placed 
clusters might first be removed, afterwards clip out the individual 
blooms that may appear crowded, selecting both old and young flowers. 
Hoeing Fruit Quarters.— Where the ground is not mulched with 
manure, the present, whenever the soil is dry on the surface, is most 
suitable time to hoe over and cut down prominent weeds which may he 
advancing, also at the same time staying the rapid progress of numbers 
of seedling weeds. Young fruit trees and recently planted or established 
Strawberry plantations will be much benefited by a loose surface layer 
of soil caused by occasional use of the Dutch hoe. Hoeing also imparts 
a tidy aspect to the garden. 
Forking among Fruit Trees. —The winter mulching of manure 
which perhaps has lain some months over the roots of fruit trees may 
now with advantage be lightly forked into the surface, though not to 
disturb the roots. If many roots of a fibrous character are near the 
surface rake off the loose dry particles. The ground thus loosened 
might with advantage be sprinkled with soot, especially under and 
among Gooseberry and Currant bushes. A peck of fresh, pungent soot 
to a rod of ground will be a good dressing. 
Strawberries. — New plantations may yet be formed, though 
planting should be done without delay, and, if possible, plants obtained 
from nursery beds, whence they can be lifted with plenty of soil 
adhering to the roots. Such plants will experience no check if carefully 
transferred to the needful sized holes or trenches provided, making the 
soil firm about them. Those planted earlier this spring may receive a 
good soaking of water or liquid manure, hoeing freely between the rows 
when the weather is dry. Weakly plants ought not to be allowed to 
flower. Most Strawberries planted early last autumn will bloom and 
fruit well this year; therefore any strong plants that exhibit signs of 
barrenness ought to be promptly discarded, as such invariably remain 
unfruitful in future years. 
FRUIT FORCING. 
Peaches and Nectarines. — Earliest Forced House. —Discontinue 
syringing when the fruit ommences to ripen, or it will cause the skin 
to crack and impart an unpleasant flavour. It is very important to 
have the trees quite free from insects by the time the syringing ceases, 
as it must when the fruit commences ripening. If there be the least 
trace of red spider apply an insecticide, and follow shortly afterwards 
with a forcible syringing, repeating the process if necessary, so as to 
thoroughly free the trees from the pest. It is only the very early 
varieties that will be ripening, the others must be well syringed, and 
have abundant supplies of water and surface mulchings of short manure 
or rich material. 
Second Early Forced House. —Trees started at the new year are 
more advanced than usual, being accelerated by the mild and bright 
weather. The fruits are now stoning, and will need care in preventing 
checks from sudden fluctuations or depressions of temperature, the night 
temperature being kept steady at 60°, with 5° more on mild 
nights; whilst on cold nights it may fall to 55°, 65° by day 
artificially in dull weather, 70° to 75° on cloudy days, but with clear 
intervals, ventilating from 70°, and freely above 75°. Attend to tying-in 
the shoots as they advance, and encourage no more growths than will be 
required for future bearing, the extension of the trees, and the swelling 
of the current crop. The trees must not lack moisture at the roots, 
affording liquid manure if they are heavily cropped and not making 
satisfactory growth ; but avoid undue excitement to trees in full vigour, 
as any impulse given to growth during the stoning is apt to affect the 
process disastrously. Syringe twice a day in bright weather, and if 
necessary apply an insecticide, it being imperative that the foliage be 
kept clean. 
Trees Started in February. —Thinning should commence when the 
fruits are the size of Horse Beans, removing the smallest and those on 
the' under side of the shoots. Retain sufficient to admit a further 
thinning when they are the size of marbles, and then only a few more 
need be left than are required for the crop, leaving those that are best 
situated for receiving air and light. Disbudding must not be neglected, 
and laying in the growths required for next year’s bearing will need 
careful and timely attention. Syringe the trees twice a day when the 
weather is bright, occasionally only when dull, and let the second 
syringing be at closing time or early in the afternoon, so as to have the 
foliageifairly dry before night. Increase the temperature to 55° or 60° 
at night, 60° to 65° by day. ventilating from the latter, and increasing 
it with sun heat to 70° or 75°. 
Trees Started in March. —Many more fruits have set than can 
possibly be brought to perfection, and an over-set is a source of great 
weakness, often causing the fruit to be cast in showers, leaving but a 
scanty crop. There is no remedy bat to thin the fruits as soon as it can 
be seen which are taking the lead in swelling, but it is better prevented 
by well thinning the flowers before they expand. Disbud gradually, for 
severe'shoot'removal favours growth of wood only, and sometimes gives 
a severe check to the fruits, causing them to drop. Syringe so as to 
enable the fruits to throw off the remains of the flowers, but avoid heavy 
syrmging at this stage, as the foliage can evaporate little when wet; 
indeed the stomata remain closed under water, and elaboration is 
greatly impeled. Ventilate early and freely, so as to secure thoroughly 
solidified growth. A temperature of 50° to 5.5° will be sufficient, not 
allowing an advance above 65° without free ventilation. 
Late Houses. —A splendid display of blossom and a grand smell of 
nectar characterises the trees generally in these structures. There ought 
not^to be anything neglected that is likely to insure the perfect ferti¬ 
lisation of the flowers, as without it fruit cannot attain perfection. 
Many of the late Peaches have large blossoms, and these often have the 
anthers deficient of pollen. Attend, therefore, to fertilising the flowers, 
not trusting to bees, which, however, effect the proc-ss very effectually, 
but they seem to be so hindered by the glass that they fight shy of fruit 
houses. It is not the difficulty of getting in. but of egress from the 
structure that bothers the bees, for when loaded they are troubled about 
nothing but carrying the nectar and pollen to their homes, and many 
succumb to the frantic endeavour made to take a direct flight. Secure 
a temperature of 50° by day, and ventilate freely, allowing an advance 
to 65° from sun heat. Leave a little air on constantly. Where there is 
a superabundance of blossom remove all on the under side or back of 
