330 
JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER, 
April 26, 1894. 
only OHgbt to be detached at one time, using judgment in selecting those 
which need early removal. Even greater attention is needed by 
these fruits than the Apricot, because they depend largely upon a 
supply of young wood for the next season’s fruit-bearing, spurs, either 
natural or artificial, not being so freely encouraged. Endeavour to 
eventually fill any vacant spaces by preserving a suitably placed shoot. 
In this way it is thus possible to gradually reform unshapely specimens. 
The most important shoots for retaining in well-trained trees are one at 
the base of the current bearing shoots and another at the extremity of 
the latter, which is utilised as a drawer of sap for the fruit below. It 
must not be allowed to make headway too far, hence pinch it back when 
two pairs of leaves have gained full size. Provide for proper extension. 
In removing superfluous shoots select the most favourable periods. 
When the sap is active in warm weather more disbudding may then be 
done than when dull, cold periods check the flow. 
One of the chief causes of early attacks of red spider and aphis is 
dryness at the roots. When the trees arc in full growth the large 
expanse of foliage, with the strain of blooming and fruit setting, make 
large demands upon the roots as regards moisture, and if these demands 
are not promptly met the foliage is the first to suffer, speedily becoming 
unhealthy, then attacked with insects. Therefore attend well to root 
moisture, and the health of the trees will be more easily maintained. 
It is useless attempting to destroy red spider when the rooting medium 
is dry, but it may be banished by the frequent use of the syringe and 
soapy water, after an adequate supply of water has been afforded the 
border. 
Plums and Cherries. —Plum and Cherry trees on walls require very 
similar treatment to Apricots with regard to the management of the 
growth. The young wood retained, however, does not bear the following 
year like that of Peaches, Nectarines, and Apricots, but needs to be two 
years old when fine fruit is produced upon it. Trees can be kept healthy 
by renewing both branches and spurs, the system of fan training easily 
admitting of this being done. Disbudding is mainly practised to prevent 
overcrowding and to dispense with shoots that are produced in wrong 
positions. It is of much importance in regulating the form of young 
trees. The best situated of foreright shoots on large trees should be 
pinched back to the second pair of fully formed leaves. They will 
eventually form fruiting spurs which prove productive for some time. 
Apples and Pears. — When training bush and pyramidal trees 
much may be done in deciding their shape by judiciously practising 
disbudding, by which the shoots may be easily reduced in numbers, thus 
allowing more room for the reserved growths intended to form the out¬ 
line of the trees. On older trees considerable time and labour might be 
subsequently saved by a little thinning out now of what ultimately will 
be crowded wood. Old spurs are very liable to be choked with growth, 
not half of which can be thoroughly ripened if means are not taken by 
disbudding to dispense with the least promising. This applies specially 
to wall trees, but the same rule holds good with respect to other forms 
when branches are too close and the spurs probably nearer still. 
Newly planted trees ought to have the soil about the roots maintained 
in a moist state though not kept too wet. Syringing in hot weather is 
beneficial. It keeps the trees clean and encourages growth. 
FRUIT FORCING. 
Figs. — Earliext Forced Irees in Pots. —When the Figs commence 
ripening, the supply of water at the roots must be diminished, syringing 
being discontinued, and a free circulation of warm dry air afforded, 
leaving the top ventilators open a little at night. The soil, however, must 
be kept moist, and a moderate moisture in the atmosphere secured by 
occasionally syringing available surfaces, but this will only he required 
in very bright weather. When the first crop is gathered syringe the 
trees twice daily, renewing the top-dressings, and watering at the roots 
with weak liquid manure. If the second crop of fruit is very plentiful 
they must be thinned out, so as not to overtax the trees for early forcing 
next season, and the second crop Figs should be confined to the base of 
the growths. 
Early Forced Planted-out Trees. —The fruit is fully three weeks 
earlier than usual, some of it having commenced to ripen. The border 
must be examined, and if at all dry apply a thorough supply of water or 
liquid manure. Cease syringing the trees when the fruit gives indica¬ 
tions of ripening, avoiding a superabundance of water about the house, 
but moderate moisture is necessary for the benefit of the foliage, having 
a little ventilation at the top of the house constantly, and a free circula¬ 
tion until the fruit is all gathered. 
Succession Houses. —Frequent attention must be given to stopping 
the shoots at the fifth joint, and subsequently to one or two ; but too 
many side shoots or spurs should not be encouraged, as the fruit and 
wood require light and air for their maturation. Train extensions in 
their full length, thinning or removing strong growths, so as to admit 
light and air to the fruit. Attend daily to syringing the trees, and 
supply water as necessary to maintain thorough moisture at the roots. 
Renew the mulching if necessary, but not having it very thick, an inch 
or two sufficing, and keep it moist, so as to encourage surface roots. 
Peaches and Nectarines. — Earliest Forced House. —The earliest 
varieties are now ripening, and the trees must not be syringed, but the 
border should not be allowed to become dry. As the fruit of the other 
varieties will not be ripe for some time yet, the atmosphere must be kept 
genial by sprinkling the borders and paths as they become dry, syringing 
ihe trees in the morning, and again when closing the house. The night 
temperature may be kept at 65° to 70°, but 5° less, though it will retard 
the ripening, will not tax the energies of the trees so much as the higher 
temperatures. Leaving the ventilators slightly open constantly at the 
upper part of the house will be an advantage. In the daytime, 
70° to 75° by artificial means, and 10° to 15° more with sun heat, will 
be suitable temperatures. 
Trees Stoning the Fruit. —Do not hurry trees undergoing this process, 
60° to 65° at night is ample, and 70° to 76° by day, avoiding high night 
temperatures and sudden fluctuations. A little air left on at night will 
prevent the deposition of moisture on the foliage through the night to 
any serious extent; enlarge the openings when the sun acts on the 
house, yet without lowering the temperature, which should advance 
with the increased power of the sun and a corresponding increase of 
ventilation. Fumigation should, if possible, be avoided. It dries the 
atmosphere, and not unfrequently cripples the foliage, when the fruit 
may from the check be seriously imperilled and fall. Early closing is an 
advantage, but it must not be done to the extent of undue excitement, 
nor continued until late, the temperature being allowed to fall with the 
declining sun. It is also advisable to allow a little extra latitude to the 
growth, but on no account permit foliage to be made that must after¬ 
wards be removed in large amounts. The growths should be secured in 
position as they advance. 
Trees Swelling their Fruits. —The fruit swells rapidly in the early 
stages, and up to the commencement of the stoning process. The 
swelling of the fruits is materially accelerated by the maintenance of a 
genial condition of the atmosphere and the means employed to secure a 
good root action, which is best effected by a judicious and gradual 
regulation of the growth by the process of disbudding and in thinning 
the fruits. These operations should be done carefully. The more 
vigorous the tree the greater the danger of the fruit being cast in stoning, 
and the evil is often aggravated by previously disbudding severely, 
which favours strong growth more than steady progress. Supply water 
thoroughly to inside borders when necessary, lay-in the shoots so as t» 
induce them to grow in the proper direction, allowing room in the 
ligatures for the swelling of the growths. After the fruit has stoned it 
takes the last swelling, when the shoots should be well tied down, but a 
moderate extension of growths will materially assist the fruit in swelling. 
Any leaves that shade fruit should be drawn aside or shortened ; and 
fruits on the under side or back of the trellis be raised on pieces of laths 
placed across the wires. 
Cherry House. —The stoning being completed the fruit will com¬ 
mence colouring, when syringing must cease, and not be had recourse 
to again until the trees are cleared of their crops ; but a good moisture 
should be maintained in the house by keeping the surface of the border 
moist, or if the trees are in pots damping the floor two or three times a 
day. The temperature must not exceed 65° by artificial means, and 55° 
to 60° at night, with a little ventilation, increasing it at 65°, liberally 
at 70°, and not allowing the heat to rise above 75° without free ventila¬ 
tion, closing at 70°, subject to leaving a little air on constantly at the 
top of the house. See that the borders do not want water, and liquid 
manure may be given to trees in pots. 
Melons. — Early Plants. —Directly the fruit commences to ripen 
lessen the supply of water at the roots, but not so as to distress the 
plants, for if the foliage has been kept clean and the roots in good 
condition a second crop of Melons may be had. Atmospheric moisture 
should be withheld, and a circulation of warm dry air ensured, increas¬ 
ing the temperature to 70° or 75° artificially and 80° to 90° with sun 
heat. Cracked fruits are produced by a close and moist atmosphere 
with too much water at the roots, which induces an excess of sap and 
consequent effort at growth. If any fruits show a tendency to crack 
cut the shoots about half way through with a knife a few inches below 
the fruit, and diminish the supply of moisture at the roots and in the 
atmosphere. Cut the fruits before they are very ripe, keeping them on 
shelves in a warm house until they are in proper condition, or they may 
be removed to a fruit room for two or three days to become equally 
ripened all over. 
Succetsional Plants. —Fertilise the blossoms when fully expanded, 
the atmosphere being kept rather drier and warmer, and ventilation 
attended to early, with a little constantly if there is danger of moisiure 
condensing on the blossoms. Stop the shoots at the time the fertilisation 
is done one joint beyond the fruit. To insure a full crop have a number 
of fruits on individual plants in the same stage of growth. Earth up 
the plants with some rather strong and rich loam after the fruits begin 
to swell, ramming it down firmly, placing a little fresh lime around the 
collar to prevent canker, and if it appear rub quicklime well into the= 
affected parts. 
Plants swelling their fruits should be syringed freely in hot weather 
at about 3 P.M., or earlier if necessity arise for closing, damping the 
floor in the morning and in the evening, using liquid manure or guana 
water occasionally, having the latter at the rate of 1 oz. to a gallon of 
water, and the former not too strong. Shade only to prevent flagging.. 
Ventilate freely in favourable weather, commencing from 75° to 80°, 
increasing or decreasing it during the day as may be necessary, main¬ 
taining a day temperature of 80° to 85°, or 90° with sun heat, closing 
between 80° and 85°, and if an advance be made to 90° or 95° after 
closing it will materially assist the fruit in swelling and lessen the 
necessity for fire heat at night, but it must be accompanied by plenty 
of atmospheric moisture. If red spider appear cover the hot-water 
pipes with a thin wash of sulphur and skim milk, and for thrips 
tumisjate on two or three consecutive evenings. 
Train the growths out regularly in pots and frames, avoiding crowd¬ 
ing, and when the blossoms appear fertilise them about mid-day on fine 
days. Maintain a good bottom heat by linings, and admit a little aii 
