April 26, 1894. 
JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 
331 
if there is danger to be apprehended from rank steam. Employ thick 
night coverings as the nights are yet cold, but do not allow the covering 
to hang over linings of fresh manure, and so injure the plants by 
introducing steam into the interior. Sow seed for raising plants to put 
out in pits and frames as they become cleared of bedding plants, and 
pot the seedlings as they require it, 
THE FLOWER GARDEN. 
Zreslnes, Coleuses, and Alternantberas.— If either or all of 
these are required for summer bedding excellent plants, if cuttings are 
plentiful, can yet be raised in a very simple manner. The requisites are 
either pits or frames, and gentle bottom heat afforded by mild 
fermenting material. Raise this near to the glass, cover with about 
4 inches of light soil, and surface over with sharp sand. With little or 
no preparation the cuttings, after the lights have been on long enough 
for the soil to become well warmed through, may be dibbled out 
3 inches apart, and if kept uniformly moist, close and shaded from 
bright sunshine, they will soon root. Cover vdth mats during 
cold nights, top the Iresines and Coleuses once, gradually harden and 
transfer direct to the beds during the second week in June, 
Xiobellas and Ageratums. —If these are crowded in boxes or 
starved in small pots they cannot be satisfactory, whereas if temporarily 
bedded out in frames, rough or otherwise, they increase in size 
considerably and move well in due time. Give them the benefit of 
moderately rich soil broken finely, plant out 4 inches apart each way, 
and keep somewhat close and shaded till well established in their fresh 
quarters. 
Violas and Pansies. —Plants raised from cuttings last autumn 
and kept during the winter in frames are too often spoilt ere they are 
planted out. Crowded together they draw up rapidly, and are a mass 
of flowers just when they ought to be kept free of them and growing 
healthily. Now is the best time to plant out where they are to flower, 
and old plants can also be divided and replanted with good results. 
Delay the work till the more tender bedding plants are put out, and the 
chances are mildew will be quickly in the ascendant. Violas form good 
marginal lines to long borders and the larger beds, and are also very 
effective in mixture with gold, silver, and bronze-leaved Zonal Pelar¬ 
goniums. The latter can be filled in where spaces are left for them in 
due course. Both Violas and Pansies raised from seed early this spring 
will flower freely during the summer if only they are kept steadily 
growing during the next few weeks. Give them room in either boxes 
or beds of good soil, sheltering from cold weather, but avoiding coddling. 
Antirrhinums and Pentstemons. —If seedlings raised this spring 
are to be of much service this summer they must not be kept crowded in 
the boxes or pans in which they were pricked out. They would 
transplant fairly well if treated as advised in the case of Lobelias, but 
seeing that they are comparatively hardy, all intended for the borders 
might well be hardened off and planted out shortly. The dwarf bedding 
varieties of the former, the white form in particular, are very effective 
in beds; and Pentstemons, if the strain is good and the plants well 
grown, will also make a fine display. 
Nlcotlana afBnls. —This very easily raised plant, though stircely 
suitable for small beds, does well in the centres of larger ones, and 
groups or single plants dotted about the borders and shrubberies both 
brighten these up and scent the neighbourhood. It is by no means a 
delicate plant, but suffers from being starved in a young state. 
Supposing the seedlings have been pricked out in pans or boxes before 
they crowd each other, bed out in frames or pits as advised with 
Ageratums. By bedding out time strong plants will be available, 
these moving with a good ball of soil and roots, and are not long before 
they commence flowering 
Xtlclnuses. —A few of these noble Castor Oil plants are distinctly 
ornamental when either arranged in groups in large beds or singly in 
the centre of smaller ones. If raised early they become tall and shabby 
before they are put out. If sown now, singly in 3-inch pots and placed 
in brisk heat, the seed will germinate in a few days. Keep the plants 
near the glass in gentle heat, and if a shift into large pots is given 
before they become root-bound, sturdy handsome plants will be ready 
for the beds in June. 
Sunflowers. —The seed of strong growing forms, and to which Oscar 
Wilde and Primrose are good additions, will germinate if sown now 
where the plants are to be grown, but there will be less likelihood of 
failure if it is sown in gentle heat, and the seedlings potted singly prior 
to planting out. They will also move well out of boxes and pans. The 
miniature Sunflower is particularly serviceable, as it only attains a 
height of about 30 inches, is very branching and floriferous, and for 
cutting is invaluable. There is yet time to raise plants. 
Zea japonlca. —The variegated form of Japanese Maize still retains 
its popularity as a summer bedding plant. Not only is it effective in 
the back lines of mixed borders, but is also admirably adapted for 
dotting among Begonias and other dwarf plants. Sow the seed at once, 
either singly in small pots or thinly in pans or boxes. They experience 
the least check when planted out of the former. Placed in heat 
germination soon takes place, and plants 6 inches in height will be ready 
for the beds when wanted. 
marigolds. —Both the African and French Marigolds are showy 
border annuals, and dwarf and miniature strains of the latter are 
suitable for the flower beds. It is a mistake to raise them very early. 
Sow the seed somewhat thinly in boxes, and place in gentle heat to 
germinate. Transfer to frames before the plants become drawn. 
Unless crowded there is no necessity to prick out these Marigolds. 
Tropeeolums and M'asturtlums. — The former, notably the 
Lobbianum family and canariense (Canary Creeper), are very attractive 
trailing plants for the fronts of houses, window boxes, porches, and such 
like. Either sow the seed singly in small pots or in pans, and pot off. 
Germination takes place quickly in gentle heat, and good plants will be 
ready by the end of May. Nasturtiums are of a dwarfer habit of 
growth, and in the Tom Thumb varieties we have remarkable showy 
bedding plants that are proof against either wet or dry weather. They 
are particularly well adapted for hot and dry positions where other 
summer bedding frequently fail. The seed may either be sown where 
the plants are to grow, or, better still, the seedlings be raised and planted 
out as advised in the case of Tropseolums. 
Sowing Annuals. —Poppies in variety, including the popular 
Shirley, ought now to be in need of thinning out, and more may be 
sown with the view of having a longer succession of flower. Sweet Peas 
and Mignonette may yet be sown, though these again succeed best when 
raised somewhat earlier. If not already done sow seed of any hardy 
annuals and ornamental grasses that may be required. Where the plants 
are to flower sow thinly in circular patches or lines, cover with sifted 
soil, and protect the delicate seedlings from slugs. 
PLANT HOUSES. 
Polnsettlas. —These plants having enjoyed a good rest may be 
started again into growth. Cut the shoots back close to the base, then 
shake away the old soil from amongst the roots and place them in pots 
one size less than those in which they are intended to flower. Use for a 
compost good fibry loam, one-seventh of decayed manure and sand. 
The soil should be pressed firmly into the pots. After potting, place 
the plants in an intermediate temperature. To secure good bracts the 
object is to aim at firm sturdy growth from the first, gradually giving 
more air as the plants extend their growth until they can be placed 
into cold frames. Where increased stock is needed the easiest and 
quickest method is to cut the ripened stem into lengths of two 
joints ; these may either be inserted thickly together in pans, or placed 
singly into thumb pots in sandy soil. Nearly every one will root if 
placed into brisk heat. When the plants are rooted they should be 
hardened to an intermediate temperature, and then grown with the 
plants that have been cut back. 
Euphorbia jacquinlseflora. —Side shoots, 2 inches in length, on 
plants that have been hardened for ten days or a foitnight in a cool airy 
place will root freely. Six-inch pots should be well drained and filled 
with sandy soil ready before the cuttings are taken off. The cuttings 
should be removed with a sharp knife where they issue from the old 
stems, and inserted at once. Give a slight watering, and cover the 
cuttings with a bell-glass, then place in brisk heat where they can be 
shaded from the sun. When sufficient stock has been raised the old 
plants should be cut back and allowed to break into growth in heat, 
when they may have the old soil shaken from their roots and repotted 
in the compost advised for Poinsettias. Allow them to remain there for 
a fortnight, and then give them intermediate treatment. 
Centropogon Iiucyanum. —There should now be plenty of side 
shoots, and these will root if treated much the same as advised for 
Euphorbias. We find they root best, however, if the pots containing 
them are placed on a moderately dry shelf, where they can be shaded 
from the sun. Cut back the old plants and repot ; the old balls may be 
reduced by one-half. Once they start into growth give them inter¬ 
mediate treatment. Cuttings of Plumbagos may also be rooted, and 
when these have been obtained the old plants may be thrown away. 
Tustlcla flavlcoma. —Good cuttings should now be plentiful, and 
these can be inserted singly in thumb pots, or three or more may be 
placed in each pot. As nearly every one will root freely if well watered, 
shaded, and stood in hand-lights, the old plants can be cut close back, 
and when they have commenced growth they may be partially shaken 
out and replaced in the same size pots. Young plants grow with more 
vigour than old ones, and are much less liable to the attacks of brown 
scale. 
Tydaeas. —Varieties of the Madame Heine section that do not make 
underground stems may be propagated by cuttings. Good healthy 
cuttings should be inserted singly in small pots, and when sufficient 
have been obtained throw away the old plants. Cuttings root very 
freely in any close moist place if shaded from the sun. When they are 
rooted remove the points to induce the plants to branch. Cuttings 
may also be rooted in pans, and the tops taken from these after they 
have attained strength if bushy little specimens only are needed in 
5 inch pots. 
Actalmenes. — These are now producing cuttings in abundance. 
Where baskets are appreciated these may be made up at once by 
transplanting the young plants moderately thick around the baskets 
and over the top. For all ordinary decorative purposes cuttings inserted 
into rich light soil in 5-inch pots make beautiful dwarf flowering plants. 
These will root in any warm shady position, but water should be kept 
from their foliage. When well rooted expose the plants to a moderate 
amount of light, and do not keep them too close and warm. 
Amaryllis. —As the plants go out of flower they must be 
encouraged to make good growth. They need full light; stiff sturdy 
growth should be aimed at, and this must be obtained by warmth 
early in the season, full sunshine, and a free admission of air. Soot 
water and other weak stimulants are beneficial when the plants are 
rooting and growing freely. Any bulbs that are still resting may be 
shaken out and repotted. If starting them into growth is delayed until 
too late in the season the plants have not a chance of making good 
