JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 
May 3, 1834. 
towards the margins. The lip was similarly coloured to the petals, 
and in addition had a dark crimson blotch in the throat. Varieties 
of Odontoglossum crispum are as numerous, and two additions 
were forthcoming from Mr. Da Barri Crawshay and Messrs. Hugh 
Low & Co. The former had a splendid form in 0. crispum 
Florie, and the Clapton firm staged 0. crispum Lowianum, a 
distinct variety. _ 
Relative to my remarks on page 295, anent the fine display of 
Odontoglossums made at a recent meeting of the Royal Horti¬ 
cultural Society by Mr. H. Ballantine, gardener to Baron Schroder, 
a correspondent reminds me of the splendid spike of O. crispum 
apiatum, exhibited by the same grower at a previous gathering. 
This spike measured 2 feet in length, and bore thirteen flowers, 
each of which was nearly 4 inches in diameter. The sepals and 
petals were an inch wide, white, with fringed edges, the surface 
being characterised by large blotches of rich chocolate brown. 
A tinge of yellow at the crest of the lip considerably enhanced the 
flower, and it is said to have been the finest form of this popular 
Orchid ever exhibited. As noted at the time, the Orchid Com¬ 
mittee of the Royal Horticultural Society recommended a small 
gold medal for it. _ 
There seems to be some doubt as to identity of Sobralias, and 
according to Mr. W. Watson of Kew, no mean authority, the 
species figured in the “ Botanical Magazine,” t. 4570, as S. sessilis 
was not that, but S. decora. With the exception of the plant at 
Kew I have never seen S. sessilis in cultivation, and should be glad 
to hear, through the Journal of Horticulture, of any instance where 
it has been successfully cultivated. S. sessilis is a beautiful species, 
and although originally introduced from British Guiana in 1840, it 
is somewhat rare, and is seldom seen other than in very choice 
collections. The flowers are about 2 inches across, and of a 
striking character. The sepals and petals of the species figured as 
S. sessilis in the “Botanical Magazine” are white, while the lip is a 
yellowish hue, tinted rose pink; but Mr. Watson in the “Garden 
and Forest” writes thus of the true S. sessilis:—“It is easily 
distinguished from all other cultivated Sobralias by its leaves being 
purplish on the under sides and the stems covered with short black 
hairs. The stems are a foot high, and the terminal flowers are as 
large as those of the spurious S. sessilis, deep rosy mauve, with a 
crimson labellum tinged with yellow.” 
There is rather a fine collection of Cirrhopetalums in the 
Royal Gardens, Kew, one of the newer species of these being 
C. robustum. So far as I know this plant, which is not a parti¬ 
cularly large one, has not flowered yet; but an authority informs 
me that a specimen of 0. robustum in the collection of Colonel 
Trevor Clarke bloomed about a year ago. According to the 
following description published some months since it would appear 
that this Cirrhopetalum is a remarkable Orchid :—“ Scape very 
stout, a quarter of an inch in thickness at the base, bearing eleven 
flowers and a few undeveloped buds at the apex. Umbel 7 inches 
across ; bracts an inch long ; sepals about 2 inches long, greenish 
yellow, reddish purple at the base ; petals half an inch long, paler 
than the sepals ; lip fleshy, recurved, cordate-oblong, nearly half an 
inch long, with a pair of stout teeth, and coloured deep red-purple ; 
column dull yellow.” My experience leads me to say that most of 
the Cirrhopetalums thrive best when grown in baskets near the 
glass of a well-heated structure. 
A short time since whilst viewing a collection of Orchids I 
noticed a plant of Arachnanthe (Vanda) Cathcarti in bloom, and 
observed to my guide that it was not generally cultivated. It is a 
beautiful plant when well grown, the waxy flowers being very 
distinct. The blooms on the plant alluded to had silvery white 
and pale yellow sepals and petals, these being streaked with rich 
reddish brown. Generally the lip is yellow, the side portions 
having red stripes. In some gardens this Orchid is known as 
a Vanda, but in others it is termed Arachnanthe. It is a native of 
the Eastern Himalayas, and is said to have been discovered in 1848 
by Sir Joseph Hooker. As an instance of how confusing the 
nomenclature of Orchids is to amateurs, it may be mentioned I 
have seen the above plant labelled Esmeralda Cathcarti. At a recent 
meeting of the Royal Horticultural Society a form of it was 
certificated as Vanda Cathcarti grandiflora. Dr. Bindley, I believe, 
classed it as a Vanda, although it had been previously named 
Arachnanthe by Blume.— Specialist. 
Odontoglossum Cervantesi. 
Improveu forms of this Orchid are occasionally appearing, 
although some of these are at present comparatively rare. The 
broad petalied variety decorum and the spotted punctatissimum or 
oseum are perhaps the best known variations from the type, but 
better kinds than these are evidently in store. A representative 
of a well-known firm of Orchid importers showed me recently a 
magnificent variety not yet named. The flower was as large as the 
best types of 0. Rossi, and of great substance and beauty. All the 
varieties are easily grown, and should be kept well up to the glass 
in the cool house. 
Vanda suavis. 
This noble Orchid should be included in all collections. 
Whether in or out of bloom it is always attractive, and is not 
difficult to grow. An intermediate temperature, such as that of a 
Cattleya house, suits it best while growing ; but in the winter it 
requires less heat than Cattleyas, 40'’ being a suitable minimum. 
This Vanda requires abundant head and rooting space. Large pots 
are the best receptacles for the plants, and fresh sphagnum moss 
and charcoal should be used as a compost. In potting, as many of 
the aerial roots as possible ought to be covered with the moss ; but 
as these are very brittle, care is necessary in handling them. Old 
plants that have lost the lower leaves look unsightly, and should be 
placed lower in the pots. This will improve the appearance and 
health of the specimens. If the roots are plentiful above the line 
of the pot?, the plants may be safely cut off at a suitable length 
and potted in the usual way. Sometimes, however, owing to the 
plants being kept in a dry atmosphere, these aerial roots are very 
few. In such cases the stems must not be cut, but the entire 
plants placed in the pots with the lower end of the stem touching 
the bottom if needful. Fill with drainage to within a third from 
the top, and use more charcoal with the moss than for well-rooted 
plants. 
Orchids in Pits and Frames. 
From the beginning of the present month until the middle of 
October pits and frames may be turned to good account by Orchid 
growers. Anyone desirous of growing Odontoglossums and other 
cool Orchids, and yet not having the convenience of a suitable 
house, may do so successfully if an ordinary frame is at command. 
During the winter and early spring these plants are easily 
managed in an ordinary greenhouse, but in the summer it is 
impossible to maintain the requisite amount of atmospheric 
moisture. The usual occupants of such structures would also 
have to be unduly shaded. Before using thoroughly cleanse the 
frames and lights inside and out by scrubbing with soap and water 
and a little petroleum. Afterwards rinse with clear water. Put 
the frames on a bed of coal ashes at the foot of a north wall, and 
sprinkle a little soot and lime on the ashes. 
The plants must be kept as near the glass as possible by stand¬ 
ing them on inverted pots. Very little shading will be needed at 
first, but the lights should be covered at night. When all danger 
of frost is passed place a brick under each corner of the frames, 
an abundance of air being thereby insured night and day. If mice 
are likely to be troublesome strips of perforated zinc should be 
placed around the lower edges and slightly sunk into the ground. 
Through the summer it is impossible to keep Disas, Odonto¬ 
glossums, Masdevallias, and the allied genus Restrepias too cool. 
Shade heavily during this period, damp the floor freely on hot 
days, and lightly syringe the foliage morning and evening. Keep 
the roots moist, and the plants will soon show by their appearance 
that this treatment suits them. Remove the bricks, and let the 
frame rest on the ground at the end of August, as the nights are 
usually very cold in September, although there may be no actual 
frost. Early in October the plants may be taken from the frames 
and placed in their winter quarters. 
Pits heated by hot-water pipes are useful for growing Calanthes, 
Cypripedium insigne, and other winter-flowering Orchids in, and 
the finest Thunias I have ever seen were grown in a disused Pine 
pit. Though this may not be considered the best of positions for 
these Orchids, yet the fact is suggestive of what may be done in pits 
of this description. 
Dendrobiums, dwarf Lmlias of the majalis and similar types, 
and others are greatly benefited by full exposure to sun and air 
after their growth is completed ; and unheated brick pits with a 
south aspect form the best of accommodation for these. During 
boisterous weather the lights may be put on, and no harm can 
befall the plants, whereas without protection of this kind much 
damage may be done by high winds and the heavy autumnal rains. 
—H. R. Richards. 
NOTES IN GUERNSEY. 
We have read of the very severe frosts experienced in Ireland, 
Isle of Wight, and other places during the past winter, but one 
was scarcely prepared to witness the havoc which the frost has 
occasioned in the much warmer climate of Guernsey, and a few 
notes may be acceptable to your readers. In an island where 
Camellias grow to 10 or 20 feet, and form vigorous bushes like 
