372 
JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 
May 10,1894. 
with moderately short and partly fresh stable manure. The short and 
solid parts act beneficially in assisting the plants, rain or waterings 
washing down the virtues of the manure to the roots. The strawy and 
lightest portions act chiefly as conservers of moisture, and provide a 
clean bed for the ripe fruit to rest on, also preventing the soil being 
trampled unduly hard in damp, and cracking in dry weather. Spring 
planted Strawberries may receive similar assistance in the shape of a 
light mulching for preventing the too rapid evaporation of moisture, 
free growth being promoted in poor or light soils at the same time by 
the gentle stimulating aid thus given. No weak Strawberry plants 
ought to be allowed to fruit the first year, as this greatly impedes their 
progress and prevents a full crop the following year. 
Tralnlogr Troung Fruit Trees. —The work of regulating the 
shoots, especially of wall trees, whether trained in formal shapes or 
spreading in fan form, should be proceeded with as they extend in 
length. Some amount of disbudding greatly assists the work of training 
if the shoots not required are rubbed off in time, but a wholesale re¬ 
moval is not desirable. When so treated great risk is run in checking 
growth and destroying a proper balance between root and branch. If 
trees are discovered where the necessary amount of shortening for form¬ 
ing the framework of their shape was neglected at the winter pruning, 
or in spring by the time the buds pushed, and it is now seen that shoots 
are require to furnish space lower down, the upper branches may be 
gradually disbudded to the point desired. The bare portions of wood 
left may afterwards be safely cut away when the foliage on the shoots 
retained has developed. 
General Disbudding. —This operation may advantageously be 
carried on where clusters of young wood are most thickly placed or 
situated in unsuitable positions. Much useless growth is often made 
from dormant buds in different parts. Frequently such growths are 
very strong and vigorous, and when not too gross in nature they offer 
facilities for refurnishing fan-shaped trees with better wood, gradually 
cutting the old away. Very gross shoots, however, should not be pre¬ 
served, but rubbed or cut off when young and sappy. The rear part and 
the under sides of the branches of wall trees are the least desirable 
positions it is necessary to encourage growth from, and these removals 
ought first to be effected at short intervals. In dealing with the better 
placed shoots first thin out moderately, then determine those to be 
ultimately retained, by degrees removing the others. Fan-trained trees, 
consisting chiefly of stone fruits, must have shoots trained principally 
from the upper sides. There is less danger of overcrowding and more 
light and air secured. 
Destroying Insects. —Aphides are liable to infest the points of 
the young shoots of Peaches, Nectarines, Plums, and Cherries, more or 
less when the weather is hot and dry, the leaves curling and becoming 
unhealthy in consequence. There are various causes which conduce to 
these attacks, the principal being lack of moisture at the roots, a 
crowded unhealthy condition of the wood, and general neglect in 
practising good culture, which throws trees into an enfeebled state. 
Green and black fly may be kept in check by regularly syringing in 
warm weather, this also promoting the general health of the trees. 
Occasionally a little softsoap may be dissolved in the water, but when 
colonies of aphides have clustered on the points of branches nothing 
short of a strong insecticide will kill and banish them. A solution of 
softsoap, 2 ozs. to the gallon of water, adding a pint of tobacco juice, is 
a safe and reliable remedy. The points of young shoots are usually 
affected the worst. Dipping is the readiest means of reaching the 
insects, using a deep narrow vessel in which the shoots may be immersed 
in the solution, and while there gently rubbed to displace the insects. 
A syringing with clean water the next day will, in most cases, serve to 
cleanse the trees. 
Feeding Pear Trees. —The majority of Pear trees have now set 
their fruits, and dwarf-trained pyramids, cordons, and bush trees may 
receive a good syringing to clear away the unfertilised flowers, showing 
to what extent young fruits are developing. The moist condition of the 
soil at the present time offers a favourable opportunity to assist the 
swelling of the small fruits by applications of liquid manure. If this 
cannot be applied the next best thing is to mu’ch the soil over the roots 
with a coating of rich manure, or give a dressing of some approved 
chemical manure. A few soakings of water will then carry much nutri¬ 
ment down to the roots. The mulch prevents moisture being withdrawn 
rapidly by the hot sun, an important matter in the case of trees grown 
on dwarfing stocks, which are naturally surface-rooting. 
FRUIT FORCING. 
Pines. — Plants with fruit in an advanced condition require a 
moderately high and moist atmosphere. This condition renders them 
more susceptible of injury from changeable weather, the effects of sudden 
outbursts of sun telling disastrously, especially upon the crown, which 
is not unfrequently scorched if the ventilation is not carefully attended 
to. Watering must be seen to once a week, but avoid indiscriminate 
periodical watering. Plants that have heat at the roots by means of hot- 
water pipes need more water than those having the bottom heat supplied 
by means of fermenting materials. Both should have water as often as 
required, on every occasion employing some stimulant of an all-round 
nature, or dissolved chemical manure or guano, 1 lb. to 20 gallons of 
water. Admit air at the top of the house at 80°, and maintain the tem¬ 
perature during the day at 80° to 90°, closing at 85°, but unless it be 
desirable to enlarge the crowns do not quite close the house. Fire 
heat must be employed to prevent the temperature falling below 70° at 
night, and to raise it to 76° in the day, the bottom heat being kept 
steady at 80° to 90°, then a few degrees variation in the atmosphere is 
not of great consequence. Syringe the house and plants two or three 
times a week according to the weather, and otherwise maintain the 
atmosphere in such condition as is likely to secure the perfect develop¬ 
ment of the fruit. 
Peaches and Nectarines. — Ilousex Started at the New Year. —The 
fruit is about completing the stoning process, but it must not be sub¬ 
jected to a higher temperature than 60° to 65° by artificial means, com¬ 
mencing to ventilate at 65°, and not allowing 75° to be exceeded without 
full ventilation. If the fruits are too thick remove the smallest, 
allowing one fruit to each square foot of trellis covered with foliage, 
leaving them a little closer on strong wood, and less on the weaker. By 
apportioning the crop to the vigour or parts of a tree the evenness of the 
growths may be maintained. Tie the shoots as they advance, removing 
superfluous growths, as it is important no more be retained than can 
have exposure to light and air. Draw the leaves aside or even shorten 
them, so as expose the fruit to light, raising such as require it on thin 
laths placed across the wires of the trellis with their apexes to the sun. 
After stoning maintain a good moisture in the house, and water the 
inside border copiously, which in well drained borders will be required 
once a week, mulching the surface with about an inch thickness of short, 
rather lumpy manure. If the fruit is not required ripe as soon as 
practicable, continue 60° to 65° as the night temperature, 65° artificially 
by day in doll weather, 70° to 75° with sun heat, closing at the latter 
with plenty of atmospheric moisture. In a high temperature 70°to 75° by 
artificial means, 80° to 85° or 90° from sun heat, and moist atmosphere. 
Peaches swell to a great size after stoning, but they are not usually so 
high coloured nor so well flavoured as those ripened in less heat and 
moisture and with free ventilation. 
Bouses Started Early in February. —The fruit, being in the early 
stages of stoning, should be reduced to two on strong shoots and one on 
the weaker, not leaving too many, for there is danger of their not stoning 
in that case, while they will be small if they should stone. Retain in 
all cases the fruit best situated for receiving air and light. Thin the 
shoots where crowded, pinching laterals to one leaf, and secure the 
growths to the trellis as they advance. Syringe the trees twice a day 
in bright weather, but once only in dull, and not then if the foliage does 
not become dry before nightfall, or it is found dripping with moisture 
in the morning. The temperature by artificial means may be kept at 
55° to 60° at night, and 60° to 65° by day, ventilating from 65°, and 
fully between 70° and 75°. Supply water to the roots as required, 
affording weakly trees and those carrying heavy crops top-dressings of 
chemical manures occasionally—say every fortnight or three weeks, 
washing them in moderately, or afford liquid manure, alternating with 
the waterings. 
Trees Started in March. —Thin the fruit now that it is swelling 
freely, and choice can be made of the most promising for the crop. 
Reserve those on the upper side or front of trellis ; two or three on 
strong shoots will be ample to leave, and proportionately fewer on 
weaker growths. Remove all superfluous shoots gradually, retaining 
those only for attracting the sap to the fruit, which stop at two or three 
good leaves, and those from the base of the present bearing wood for 
furnishing fruit another year, with such extensions as are necessary. 
Train the growths as they advance, securing them loosely to the trellis. 
Afford liquid manure to such as require more vigour, but avoid stimulat¬ 
ing vigorous trees too much, as that will encourage wood at the expense 
of the fruit stoning. Keep red spider under by syringing, and if aphides 
or other pests appear promptly apply an insecticide, those advertised 
being thoroughly efficacious and safe, provided the instructions are 
carefully followed. 
Late Bouses. —The fruits being well set, the trees will need syringing 
in the morning and on fine afternoons to rid them of the remains of 
the flowers. Commence thinning when the fruits are the size of horse 
beans, removing the smallest and worst placed, leaving a few more only 
than will be required for the crops ; but regard must be had to the 
vigour of the trees, and their liability to cast some of the fruit or other¬ 
wise in stoning. Disbudding and laying in the shoots should be care¬ 
fully attended to, doing the first gradually and the latter with due 
regard to the swelling of the shoots. A temperature of 50° at night 
and 55° by day artificially will be sufflsient to keep the trees in steady 
progress, ventilating freely above that, unless it is desirable to hasten 
the crop, when a tempeiature of 56° at night and 60° to 66° may be 
securerl, with 70° to 76° from sun heat, ventilating from 65°. 
Unheated Houses.—Thot fruits have set well, quite four times as many 
as the trees can bring to a full size, and they should be thinned as soon 
as the best can be decided upon by their taking the lead in swelling. 
Over-burdening the trees in the early stages of the fruit swelling 
prevents their making wood for another season’s crop, while excessive 
disbudding may cause the fruits to fall or a strong growth to be made. 
A moderate syringing on fine mornings will be a great assistance in 
ridding the trees of the remains of the blossoms ; but afternoon syring¬ 
ing is not advisable, nor sprinkling likely to cause a moist atmosphere 
at night, as the weather is not yet to be depended on, and a severe 
frost occurring while the trees or house is damp is very much more 
likely to prove disastrous to the crop than if the atmosphere be dry. 
Ventilate at 50°, not allowing an advance above 65° without full venti¬ 
lation, and close at 60°, or before if there is a prospect of frost at night. 
If water be necessary apply it sufficiently early in the day to allow of 
the surface becoming fairly dry before the house is closed. 
Cherry House —The Cherries are ripening rapidly, and they must 
be kept dry, but keep the surface of the borders moist by damping with 
