May 17,1894 
JOURXAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 
395 
crops, as those that have the Grapes approaching ripening should have 
a rather free circulation of air, those advanced in ripening being kept 
cooler and drier. Air should be admitted very early in the morning, 
as the sun’s rays acting powerfully on the condensed moisture formed 
on the foliage during the night usually causes scorching, unless air has 
been previously admitted. 
Watering the borders must be attended to as required, not having 
stated times, but being guided by the soil’s condition. More failures are 
the result of under than over-watering Vines, the borders being properly 
constructed, and the drainage complete. Water may be required twice 
a week in the case of Vines restricted to narrow and shallow borders, 
and once a week for those that have a good run of border from the time 
of thinning the berries until the Grapes are changing colour, but reten¬ 
tive soils may only require water at fortnightly or three weeks intervals. 
This difference must be had regard to, for there is no question about a 
sodden soil being injurious to Grapes, and often a prolific source of 
shanking. Some loams are naturally very loose, sandy, or gravelly, 
while others have opening material added, as lime rubbish, oystershells, 
and charcoal, which make them sieve-like. The consequence is the 
greater need of water, besides the danger attending the finish of Grapes 
grown on such soils through insufficient supplies of water leading to 
attacks of red spider and thin foliage, which does not assimilate and 
store nearly as much essential matter as the stout leaves on Vines in a 
firm substantial soil of a rather retentive nature. Such soil will require 
water less frequently, but in no case must there be lack of moisture at the 
roots throughout the swelling periods. Liquid nourishment is also more 
frequently required by loose and light soils than by compact and retentive 
ones. All will need top-dressings of some approved fertiliser, three 
times being advisable—1, When starting the Vines ; 2, when the Grapes 
attain to thinning size ; and 3, when the berries commence ripening, 
supplying 4 ozs. per square yard at each dressing and washing in lightly. 
If more stimulation be needed supply the manure oftener ; this is 
better than increasing the quantity each time and at long intervals. 
Late Holmes .—In most places the work now on hand is considerable 
in thinning the berries, and it will continue for some weeks, as in many 
instances the Vines are only in flower. In the latter case maintain a 
minimum temperature of 65° to 70°, 5° more for Muscats, shaking the 
Vines twice a day to distribute the pollen, which will be sufficient for 
all but the shy-setters, and these ought to be artificially fertilised, going 
over the bunches carefully with a camel’s hair brush and supplying 
pollen where it is deficient from those varieties that afford it freely. All 
the large berried and free-setting varieties, such as Gros Colman and 
Gros Guillaume, should be thinned while they are in flower, and with 
those that are liable to have closely set berries it is advisable to thin 
before the flowers expand, as a practical eye can tell which flower 
will set by its vigour, and the removal of the weaker strengthens 
those left wonderfully. While the Vines are in flower moderate moisture, 
with a rather free circulation of warm air, is desirable ; it is also in¬ 
advisable to stop or remove laterals while the Vines are in bloom, but 
when the berries are fairly set remove superfluous laterals and pinch as 
required, both to prevent overcrowding and concentrate the supplies of 
nourishment on the Grapes. 
Planting Growing Vines .—From now to the early part of June is a 
good time to plant out those raised from eyes in February or March 
and grown in pots or turves. The roots need not be disentangled, 
yet turf-raised Vines are better than potted ones, as they form a straight 
yet fibrous root, and are not so prone to descend deeply as those turned 
out of the pots with the ball entire. Compact the soil well about the 
balls or turves, give a good soaking with water at 90°, and mulch with 
about an inch of short and rather lumpy manure. Maintain a rather 
humid atmosphere, and shade from bright sun until the Vines become 
established. 
THE KITCHEN GARDEN. 
Early Celery.— Plants that were early pricked out in boxes or 
frames ought, after they once touch each other, to be quickly turned 
out into the trenches or beds, as the case may be. When they are sturdy 
and can be moved with a little soil about the roots they will experience 
no very susceptible check ; but after they become drawn and weakly 
they flag badly after transplanting, and are very slow in recovering. 
Properly prepared trenches answer well for the production of early 
Celery for ordinary purposes, but if extra fine “sticks” are required 
then it will be found a good plan to plant either on or above the level. 
Trenches are too cold to hasten the growth in June, and the most rapid 
progress is made by those plants on raised beds. The latter should be 
enclosed by stout boards and strong stakes, and solid manure, fresh 
loam, charred soil, ashes, lime rubbish, and soot be freely mixed 
with the ordinary surface soil. Dispose the plants in this from 16 inches 
to 18 inches asunder, and see that they never become dry at the 
roots. Midseason and late Celery can also be similarly grown to a 
great size, effecting perfect blanching by means of sundry bandages of 
paper enclosed, if need be, by strips of canvas. In no other manner can 
such fine and clean stalks be had. 
Prlcklng-out Celery. —It is a mistake to coddle Celery plants. 
When pricked out on beds of rich manure and soil enclosed in frames 
they certainly make the most rapid progress; but if, as before hinted, 
they are not shifted to the trenches before they become crowded they 
are very slow in taking to their fresh quarters. What is wanted is a 
hard bottom in a sunny p’ace, and on this spread a layer 3 inches thick 
of nearly decayed manure mixed wdth loam, over this disposing a thick¬ 
ness of about 1 inch of fine light soil, keeping all together by means 
of boards and stakes. Prick out the plants 4 inches apart in straight 
lines each way, give a gentle watering, and shade from bright sunshine. 
When large enough and before they are crowded all should be shifted to 
the trenches. As they are on a hard bottom they will move off cleanly, 
each with a good square of soil and roots attached. More plants for the 
later rows can also be pricked out in ordinary garden soil, with which is 
mixed some fine manure or leaf soil. These also if moved in good time 
will soon recover from any check given. 
Preparing- Celery Trenches. —According as Broccoli, Borecole, 
and Brussels Sprouts are cleared off the ground, and the old stumps 
should not be allow'ed to exhaust the ground any longer than absolutely 
necessary, trenches should be made for Celery. When prepared thus 
early the soil and manure have good time to become w’ell warmed and 
sweetened, added to which the planting can be done rapidly and 
effectively during, it may be, a period of showery weather. To have 
abundance of soil for banking up the rows, from 3 feet to 4 feet 
spaces between the trenches should be allowed, and these latter may be 
15 inches or rather more in width for a single row, and 20 inches wide 
for two rows of plants. If the space is limited, then the plan of grow¬ 
ing Celery in beds may be tried. In this case the trench should be 
5 feet wide, and this would hold four rows of plants. Whether the 
trenches shall be shallow or moderately deep ought to depend upon the 
nature of the subsoil. If the latter is heavy and cold do not throw out 
more than 6 inches of the top soil, but if of medium to light texture 
then 10 inches of it may well be removed. Fork good decayed manure 
very freely into the bottom of trench, but do not mix any clay with it, 
incorporating a little of the top soil with the manure instead. Another 
advantage attending the practice of preparing the trenches some time 
before they are wanted lies in the fact that the spaces between them 
can, after levelling, be very advantageously cropped with Lettuce, 
Kidney Beans, and dwarf Peas. 
Celerlac or Turnip-rooted Celery. —Only large roots of this 
Celery are of much value either as a vegetable for salading or soups. 
If not already done the plants should be pricked out much as advised for 
ordinary Celery, and in common with the latter ought to be finally 
planted out before they become very large. Seeing that it is the Turnip¬ 
like root that is wanted large Celeriac should not be planted in trenches, 
but ought to be grown quite on the level, and a moderately rich yet firm 
root-run is desirable. If a clear open piece of ground cannot be heavily 
manured and dug in readiness for this crop, the plan of closely following 
early Cauliflowers may be tried. If the ground was heavily manured 
for the latter, and is not run together or badly trampled, all the further 
preparation needed will be to clear it of stalks and weeds, and to deeply 
hoe the surface. 
Iieeks.— If these are wanted extra large, clean, and early, they 
ought to be treated much the same as Celery. They may be planted out 
from boxes or pots in shallow, well manured trenches, on the level, or 
even above the level, and they can be much the most cleanly blanched 
by means of paper bandages. For ordinary purposes plants obtained by 
sowing seed thinly in the open will be quite forward enough for plant¬ 
ing next month, and these can be planted either with a heavy dibble on 
the level or in the trenches. Leeks are not often touched by rabbits, 
and will succeed well in cold outside quarters. A change of site is by 
no means imperative, especially if the ground is early and heavily 
manured, and dug each season. Any old plants left may be taken up 
with some soil and roots, and laid in behind a north wall for future use. 
Winter Spinach. —This, in many places, is rightly regarded as 
one of the most important crops that can be grown. A good bed is 
invaluable, as it can be gathered from during the winter in all but very 
frosty weather, and yields abundance of fine succulent leaves in the 
spring. To be successful with it the ground ought to be well prepared 
for the seed two months before it is time to sow it. Especially is this 
necessary in the case of any that is difficult to work, as well as those 
soils of a free working nature but much liable to be infested with grubs. 
Give the preference to a breadth of rather high ground, dress with 
manure freely, and dig roughly and deeply. After the surface has been 
baked by sunshine, and then thoroughly moistened by rain, it will 
crumble freely, and should then be forked over, though not to the 
extent of disturbing the manure underneath. Take an early opportunity 
of lightly turning the surface, then finally raking so as to be able 
to sow on or about the second and fourth weeks in August, even if the 
weather is hot and dry at the time. 
Weeds. —A showery time has been most favourable <o the growth 
of these, and unless checked there will soon be a mess. On dry hot days, 
therefore, the flat hoe should be freely used among all advancing crops. 
It is not merely the weeds that are seen that ought to be hoed up, but 
all the vacant ground should be stirred, this destroying thousands of 
newly germinated weeds as well as serving to keep the ground loose and 
open. Surface hoeing, it should be borne in mind, is a good preventive 
of rapid loss of moisture and consequent cracking. 
GARDENERS’ CHARITABLE AND PROVIDENT 
INSTITUTIONS. 
The Gardeners’ Royal Benevolent Institution. — Secretary, 
Mr. G. J. Ingram, 50, Parliament Street, London, W.C. 
United Horticultural Benefit and Provident Society.— 
Secretary, Mr. W. Collins, 9, Martindale Road, Balham, London, S.W. 
Royal Gardeners’ Orphan Fund. — Secretary, Mr. A. F, Barron, 
Royal Horticultural Society's Gardens, Chiswick, London, W. 
