416 
JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 
May 24, 1894, 
as subservient to medicine and agriculture, they look at it from the 
purely utilitarian point of view in a manner not essentially different 
from that of two hundred—or even two thousand—years ago, and it may 
well be a longtime before they rise above this idea. 
“ In addition to the botanical knowledge thus initiated by the neces¬ 
sities of life, a second avenue leading to the same goal was early estab¬ 
lished by man’s sense of beauty. The first effect of this was limited to 
the employment of wild flowers and foliage for purposes of ornament 
and decoration. Later on it led to the cultivation of the more showy 
plants in gardens, and ultimately to the arts of gardening and horticul- 
tnre, which at different periods and in different countries have passed 
through such various phases, corresponding to the standards of the 
beautiful which have prevailed.” 
The above excerpts express the spirit in which the work is penned, 
and although as it becomes necessary to deal with the microscopic aspects 
of vegetable morphology and physiology the language ceases to be that 
of everyday life, it does not degenerate into obscure involution or 
indigestibility of phrase so as to oppose exceptional impediment to 
the understanding. For those who are interested in the subject, 
“ The Natural History of Plants ” may be safely recommended as a 
valuable text-book and work of reference, as well as a handsome addition 
to the book-shelves of the library. 
WOKK.foJlTHE WEEK. O 
HAKDT FRUIT GARDEN. 
Tblnnlngr Truit. —Where heavy crops of fruit are set attention 
should now frequently be given in order to relieve trees and bushes of 
some of the least promising fruits. Very few trees now carrying an 
ample crop are free from undesirable specimens in the shape of mis¬ 
placed, deformed, undersized, badly fertilised fruits. These are much 
better cleared away at once, as they appropriate nutriment in common 
with better examples and compete with them for support. The main 
advantages gained in thinning fruit during the early stages are increased 
size and quality in those retained, less pressure on the general resources 
of the trees, whereby the development and perfecting of a fair crop of 
fruit is not only insured, but the wood and fruit buds for the forth¬ 
coming season are duly built up as well. Moderate crops are always to 
be preferred, because quality is proportionate to quantity as a rule. 
The heavier the crop the more inferior the quality of the produce. The 
less in quantity, the finer in size, better coloured, and more richly 
flavoured fruit follows as a matter of course. 
Apricots. —These, the earliest in developing of stone fruits, ought 
now to have the final thinning. Leave the individual fruits 4 to 
6 inches asunder, the latter distance being sufficiently near for the 
largest growers. The trees will have been thinned previously to some 
extent, but if not, the wholesale removal of all the fruit at once ought 
not to be carried out, but the operation spread over short intervals. Cut 
away those in awkward places such as the back of branches first, next 
dealing with fruits likely to wedge themselves against nails or junctions 
of wood, finally giving a general thinning and apportioning the fruits 
equally over the trees. 
Peaches and N’ectarlnes. —Continue to thin and regulate the 
swelling fruit; every relief is of benefit. Too many fruits are a great 
strain upon stone fruit trees. The stones require feeding and building 
up just as much in a small, inferior example as they do in larger, and 
this is done at the expense of the fleshy portions of fruits when these 
have set freely, and are allowed to develop unthinned. The final 
thinning should take place when the stones are formed, leaving the 
individual fruits on moderately vigorous trees 9 or 10 inches asunder. 
Judgment must, however, be used in this respect, and the capabilities 
of each particular tree ought to be studied. One in a weakly condition 
must not carry inore than a very thin crop, and the fruits left ought to 
be situated on vigorous parts in comparison with other branches. Gross 
growing trees may often have their vigour subdued by allowing a fuller 
crop than usual, the same principle applying to the branches, some of 
the latter perhaps having no more strength than is necessary to perfect 
the young wood for the future crop. Such branches had better carry 
no fruit at all. 
Plums. —Many varieties of Plums have set freely, and may with 
advantage be thinned, especially on walls, where the finest fruit is 
usually looked for and secured. Bush and standard trees having little 
or no crowded wood, -and otherwise in good condition, will be able to 
carry a good crop without severe thinning. 
Cherries.— Morello Cherries trained similarly to Peaches are fur¬ 
nished with abundant crops of fruit, but old trees trained on the spur 
system, which is the least desirable method for this fruit, are not so 
freely occupied. The sweet Cherries grow in clusters on spurs or two- 
year-old v.’ood, and where fine fruit is desired reduce each cluster to 
half its number, clipping out the smallest and ill-shapen first. Cut out 
all the small fruits of the Morellos, and clear away the unfertilised 
flower stems. Too free cropping is not good for Cherries, the same 
reasons applying as for other stone fruits. 
Pears.—The best fruits can now be perceived by reason of their 
swelling freely. Such are the best to retain, but if numerous those may 
eventually be reduced in number. It will suffice at present, however, 
to clip out the small, ill-formed examples, and any growing in wrong 
directions. Pears of the best quality cannot be produced without 
judicious thinning. To bring out their full flavour two on a spur are 
suflScient. The very finest specimens can only be secured by one alone 
being retained. Wall fruit usually finishes the best. Trees in any 
position that did not perfect their fruit well last year should have the 
crop reduced to one-third this season. This in conjunction with 
manorial assistance during the swelling will materially assist the 
development and ultimate perfecting of the fruit. 
Apples.— The first thinning of newly set Apples may take place, 
merely clipping away the very smallest now as well as all useless flower 
stems and decayed petals, which, being allowed to remain provide a 
retreat for insects and maggots which attack the young fruits. 
Gooseberries. —Gooseberries being souseful in a green state are 
usually fairly well thinned immediately they gain a moderate size. Those 
on the lower branches may be cleared away entirely, leaving the bulk of 
the fruit on the higher parts where air and light may act upon them. 
To produce extra fine fruits the berries must be freely thinned. 
Currants. —It is seldom necessary to thin Currants, but if fine 
bunches of fruit with large juicy berries are wanted for dessert or 
exhibition, thin some of the bunches on a few of the best ard most 
vigorous trees, affording additional assistance for increasing their size by 
applications of liquid manure. 
Strawberries. —Strawberries just going out of flower or com¬ 
mencing swelling may be freely thinned. Cutaway the least prominent 
either of flowers or fruits. From those fruits swelling rapidly select 
the best shaped examples with strong footstalks. Some of the weakest 
bunches of flowers or fruit may also be thinned with advantage. 
FRUIT FORCING. 
Pines. — Providing for a Successional Snpply of Fruit. —Pine plants 
yield, as a rule, the finest fruits when they show these ten to twelve 
months from the time the suckers are potted, but some allowance must 
be made for the size of them when first started, also for autumn-potted 
suckers, which have to make a part of their growth under adverse 
influences. Plants that were potted last September will now be showing 
fruit; if not, means should be adopted to effect it. This can be done by 
subjecting those of that age not now exhibiting signs of fruiting—a 
thick sturdy base and the leaves commencing to open in the centre of 
the plant—to comparative rest for a period of four to six weeks, 
lowering the heat at the roots to 7.5°, admitting air fully at 75° to 80°, 
and letting the temperature fall to 75° before closing the house for the 
day. Very little fire heat will be necessary, but it must be afforded to 
prevent the temperature falling below 60° at night and to secure 65° by 
day. The plants must not be allowed to become excessively dry at the 
roots, but when a supply of water is needed afford it liberally. The 
smaller suckers of the plants placed this spring in the fruiting pots 
should be kept growing until they have well filled them with roots, when, 
if it be necessary, the plants can be subjected to the same course of 
treatment as advised for the larger plants, and these will afford a 
successional supply of fruit. 
Potting Successional Pines. —When the strongest suckers potted last 
March filled the pots with roots they would be transferred to their 
largest pots. If they are not yet potted no further delay should be 
tolerated, as to retain them longer in small pots is detrimental to their 
after growth. Recently potted plants should have a regular bottom 
heat of 85° to 90°, and be thoroughly watered after potting if the soil be 
dry, and no more should be given until the soil becomes again in that 
condition, as it is necessary to exercise more care than usual at this 
stage, the state of the individual plants being ascertained before its 
application. 
Young Pines. —Growing stock will be making rapid progress, and 
should he regularly attended to in every particular. Ventilate early 
in the day at 75° to 80°, to render the foliage dry before it is acted 
powerfully upon by the sun. Discontinue shading successional plants, 
but if very near the glass and the panes large a light shade will he 
advisable in the hottest part of the day, also for fruiting plants with the 
crowns in close proximity to the rcof. 
Peaches and ITectarlnes — Early Houses. —When Alexander or 
Waterloo Peaches are cleared off their fruit, the wood that has borne 
it should be cut out to the successional growths from their base for next 
year’s fruiting, excepting those needful for extension. If the trees are 
too full of wood thin well, so as to admit light and air to the shoots, and 
thereby insure their thorough ripening. Early forced trees are liable to 
have the buds over-developed and to cast them ; therefore, some growers 
leave the old wood until a later period to retard the buds, while others 
shade the house from bright sun with a similar object. Covering the 
roof lights with a thin wash of whiting and skim milk answers perfectly, 
using it as soon as the blossom buds are commencing to form, or from the 
fruit being gathered until the latter part of August. This is a good plan 
where trees suffer from over-maturity of the buds, and with proper 
regard to watering and keeping the foliage clean is effectual. Syring¬ 
ing should be prac'ised in the irorning and evening to free and keep the 
trees clear from red spider. The borders must be kept in a thoiouyhly 
moist condition, as it is important that the foliage be kept healthy as 
long as possible. Admit abundance of air in the daytime where the 
fruit is ripening, and a little at night to prevent the deposition of 
