422 
JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 
May SI. 1894. 
INDIAN OR CHINESE AZALEAS. 
Among the many species and varietiei of plants now cultivated 
in British gresnbouses but few are more useful and beautiful than 
the numerous garden hybrid Azaleas which have resulted from 
crossing A. amoena and A. indica, or from intercrossing varieties 
of the latter species. The individual flowers of many of the 
newer productions show a decided improvement in both size and 
form upon the older ones, and the wide range of colour to be found 
among them seems to leave nothing to be desired. Why the two 
species amoena and indica should be termed “ Indian ” Azaleas 
seems somewhat curious to me, seeing that both were introduced 
from China—that old, vast, yet withal unchanging empire to 
which we are indebted for so many delightful floral gems ; but 
with all our boasted knowledge of science, and her teachings, we 
have not yet learned to eclipse by cultural skill some of the best 
productions of the dreamy inhabitants of this so-called “ Celestial 
Empire.” 
Perhaps one of the principal reasons which contribute towards 
"the cultural successes of the Chinese is the careful way in which 
they utilise the vast quantities of natural fertilisers, which in some 
ether countries are a source of inconvenience and loss rather than 
of profit. Many plants and crops seen struggling for existence in 
this country are brought into such a pitiable condition through 
pure starvation, and in nine cases out of ten this is the primary 
reason why Azaleas are so frequently seen in a weak or unhealthy 
condition. It is one of the easiest of plants to grow well if ordinary 
care is exercised in its treatment. What it detests is a dry atmo¬ 
sphere and an insufficiency of moisture during the summer, 
especially when growing in soil crammed with roots, from which 
but little nutriment can be obtained. Under such conditions weak 
flimsy growths, which fall a prey to the attack of thrips, are the 
inevitable result. Chemical manures are of immense service in the 
growth of Azaleas, especially during the growing season. As soon 
as they go out of flower all plants which do not require repotting 
may with advantage receive a dressing of one or other of them 
once a month till the flower buds are formed. It is then undesirable 
to stimulate them greatly until the buds begin to swell in the spring, 
or autumn if forced. Still, it is not wise to discontinue feeding 
altogether, but throughout the autumn and winter an occasional 
dressing will be found beneficial by keeping the leaves in good 
colour and maintaining the general health of the plant. 
When Azaleas are grown in houses of modern construction I 
am an advocate for giving them more shade during the growing 
season than they usually receive ; not a dense shade, but a continual 
shelter from the sun’s rays. With other cultural conditions well 
carried out the growths made will then be strong and healthy. They 
may with certainty be afterwards well ripened by gradually ex¬ 
posing them to full sunshine, and by placing them in the open air 
during July and August. 
It is surprising how well Azaleas will thrive in old dark houses 
'in which many plants never do well. I have frequently grown 
•fine plants in an old orangery having no glass roof. While the 
growth was being made they were placed within 3 feet of the 
upright lights in front, and freely syringed. By the end of June 
they were removed to the open air in a shady position for a time, 
afterwards exposed to full sunshine ; with this treatment they 
never failed to flower freely, and at no time could I discover a 
thrip upon the leaves. I would strongly advise all who have old 
dark houses to deal with to grow Azaleas extensively, as I am quite 
sure they will find them succeed where many other plants fail. 
I like to repot whatever plants require doing directly the flowers 
have faded, generally shifting into pots two sizes larger, using a 
compost of three parts good peat, one part fibrous loam with the 
earthy portions beaten out, adding to these a fair amount of sharp 
sand, and a little charcoal broken into pieces about the size of 
marbles. Firm potting is an important item in their successful 
management, without it the difficulty of sufficiently moistening the 
old ball, unless rendering the new soil sodden, amounts almost to 
^n impossibility. 
During the time Azaleas are making their growth, any that are 
growing in soil permeated with roots should receive copious 
supplies of water. Let the soil once get thoroughly dry during 
this stage and it will require fully a year for them to recover their 
lost vigour. A continually sodden condition of the soil must also 
he avoided, and an observant cultivator should quickly find out the 
exact point between these extremes at which water may with the 
greatest advantage be given. 
Syringing Azaleas once a day during bright weather helps 
greatly to preserve them in good condition and to keep thrips and 
red spider at bay. Some cultivators syringe in the morning, others 
in the afternoon, but where the houses are shaded I prefer doing 
so at midday, as my observation has led me to believe that the 
plants receive the greatest benefit when so refreshed, the floors and 
stages being damped at other times as required. 
Many lively discussions have at various times been indulged in 
the horticultural Press as to the respective merits of trained and 
untrained plants. Both have their advantages and points of beauty, 
and I do not understand why persons who prefer untrained plants 
should fall foul of others who have a liking for perfectly formed 
pyramids. To a great extent these things are a matter of 
individual taste, and I think will always remain so. Let us by all 
means grow them both as standards and bushes, or as perfectly 
trained specimens, such as would delight the eyes of old exhibitors. 
No matter in what form they are grown Azaleas are beautiful 
objects when in flower. Those plants allowed to grow in a natural 
form are, however, more useful for supplying cut flowers, and do 
not require so much time spent upon them. It is, therefore, a good 
plan to grow the bulk in this form, so that the trained plants need 
never be cut. Another point which should receive attention is 
that many of the strong growing varieties do not readily lend 
themselves to formal training ; but as they produce some of the 
finest and most beautifully coloured flowers strict adherents to 
formal methods of training would have to exclude them from their 
collection. This is a case in point as to the wisdom of moderation 
in all things. 
It is a decided mistake to begin training plants in a very young 
state, as the object in view can be attained more quickly by allowing 
the growth to go on almost unrestricted for a few years, merely 
pinching an extra strong shoot, and in the case of weak-growing 
varieties, training a few of the strongest shoots to a stake in the 
centre, so that the requisite height for forming a handsomely pro¬ 
portioned pyramid may be obtained ; for unlike most other plants. 
Azaleas may easily be kept furnished at the base, but are not so 
easily induced to grow to the necessary height, and it is far better 
to allow the plants to form natural bushes than to succeed in 
producing only “ dumpy ” apologies for pyramids. In forming 
the trellises a good guide toward securing well-proportioned cones 
is to let the base measure half the height, or nearly so. Two 
pieces of wood about half an inch square, held firmly to the rim of 
the pot by being fastened to a wire underneath it, form a good 
foundation for the trellises. To these a strong iron ring should be 
fastened. If a stake is then driven in the soil near the centre of 
the pot, and cut off at the requisite height, a screw or nail may be 
inserted at the top, so that wires may be strained from the top of 
the stake to the bottom ring, at distances of from 6 to 9 inches 
asunder all round it. Another stout ring is usually required about 
half way up to keep the whole framework in position. Griven a 
well made trellis to start with, it is not a difficult matter for 
anyone, with a little practice, to train the shoots with mathematical 
precision, so long as there are shoots in abundance for the purpose. 
—Blait Bowkail. 
Cypripedium callosum Sanders. 
Among the many striking novelties exhibited by Messrs. 
P. Sander & Co., St. Albans, at the Temple Show last week, but 
few attracted more attention than did Cypripedium callosum 
Sanderse, shown there for the first time. As will be seen by 
referring to the illustration (fig. 68), the flower is not remarkable 
for its size ; it being as regards formation similar to C. callosum, 
but in colour it differs considerably. The dorsal sepal is rather 
broad, white, veined with emerald green, as are the petals. The lip 
is large and of a bright green shade. It is said that this charming 
novelty was imported with a consignment of C. callosum. A first- 
class certificate was awarded for it on the above-mentioned occasion. 
Cattleya Lawrence an a. 
This is one of the most showy and distinct Cattleyas now 
flowering. It is a variable species as to colour, some being much 
paler than others, but all are very good. It belongs to the labiata 
section, but requires more heat than the majority of species, and in 
company with C. aurea and C. superba will thrive in a light sunny 
position. C. Lawrenceana was introduced from British Guiana 
in 1884. 
Oncidium tetrapetalum. 
Although one of the smallest flowered this little Oncidium is 
very elegant. The erect spike is closely studded with flowers 
