436 
JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 
M*y 31, 1894 
PLANTS FOR HOUSE DECORATION. 
{Concludedf rom page 380.) 
Methods of Culture, Preparation, and Arrangement. 
For the successful culture of the plants enumerated in the previous 
instalment on the above-mentioned page houses will be required. One 
structure should be for the hardier plants, an intermediate house, a 
propagating pit, and a stove for those kinds that need heat and 
moisture. For a start suitable plants should be purchased from a 
nurseryman, and after this an energetic man will, if he has the con¬ 
venience above mentioned, manage to maintain a stock, also mate¬ 
rially increase most of the plants enumerated. Palms are sometimes 
raised from seed by gardeners, and many of the commoner kinds 
germinate freely when sown in pans containing soil, and plunged in 
a bottom heat of from 80° to 85°. Still, I think the raising of Palms 
ia best left in the hands of those persons who make a speciality of 
them, and from whom it will be advisable to obtain what is wanted. 
FIG. 60.— ODONTOGLOSSUM CRISPUM VAR. NOBILIU8. (See page 423.) 
With regard to Dracmnas there is no difficulty in increasing the stock of 
most varieties, for in repotting a plant there will generally be found at the 
bottom of the soil one or more “ toes ”—thick roots. If these are taken 
ofiE with a sharp knife, put into small pots in a mixture of peat, leaf 
mould, and sand, and plunged into a brisk bottom heat, they will soon 
begin to grow, and are not long in making useful plants. If a plant has 
become rather tall, and a shorter one is required, the best way is to notch 
the stem around under the leaves, split a 3-inch pot, and then place a 
stake by the side of the plant, and put the split pot around the notched 
stem, tying to the stake to keep it in position. Fill it with a mixture of 
sphagnum moss, peat, and sand, place in the propagating pit, and if 
kept moist it will soon emit roots from the cut part. When it has filled 
the pot with roots cut the stem, then there ia a plant ready for a shift 
into a larger size pot, and with foliage right down to the soil. The old 
stem if left in heat will produce several shoots, and if these are taken oil 
with a heel they readily root. Some persons notch the stem and 
tie sphagnum moss around the wound, keeping well syringed, and when 
roots are emitted through the moss cut off and place in a pot. 
Ficus elasticus is easily propagated, the tops or side shoots rooting 
in a brisk bottom heat; but where large numbers are required it is 
usual to take plants with stems of medium size, and cut into short 
pieces, each with an eye. These pieces are put in pots and plunged 
in a brisk heat, when each one will make a plant. It is done in 
much the same way as propagating Vines from eyes. Curculigos are 
propagated from offsets, and Crotons by cuttings at almost any time 
of the year. The latter can also be perpetuated by notching around 
the stem and tying sphagnum moss, or a split pot as recommended for 
Dracmnas. Cyperus alternifolius is propagated by division, or by 
taking the ripe leaves, and placing them in a pan of water in a warm 
house. Pandanus Veitchi when it grows to a fair size produces offsets, 
which can be removed and easily rooted in heat. Aspidistras are 
usually increased by division, and Grevillea lobusta, Aralias, and 
Acacias from seeds. Where Ferns are extensively grown in variety 
it is no trouble to maintain a sufficient supply by taking care of the 
stray seedlings that come up. Some kinds are more difficult to 
raise from spores, and may be increased by division. Asplenium 
bulbiferum, a most useful Fern, can be had in almost any numbers 
by pegging down the ripened fronds in a pan. If this plan is adopted 
hundreds of young Ferns will soon be forthcoming. Gloxinias, Begonias,, 
and Cyclamens are all easily raised from seed where heat is at com¬ 
mand, and these may be flowered for the first season in small pots. 
The stove is also the home of Caladiums, Acalyphas, Eucharis, 
Pancratiums, Marantas, and Alocasias, and when used for the 
decoration of the rooms or tables these plants should not be 
kept in the dry and cooler atmosphere too long. 
There are many systems of growing Chrysanthemums and 
innumerable varieties. The Japanese and reflexed blooms are, 
I think, the best to grow for decorative purposes, as most of 
the incurved kinds give poor results, being too tall for arranging 
in the house. I usually commence to insert my cuttings in 
December and continue taking some up to April, the latter 
coming in especially useful. Three or four cuttings are placed 
in a 3-inch pot, and I use a compost of two parts sifted loam, 
one part leaf mould and one part sand, to which Chrysanthe¬ 
mum ash is added if procurable, I like to have a frame in 
an intermediate house for the cuttings, as when put in a frame 
they seldom flag, and soon root. When rooted they are placed 
singly in 3-inch pots and returned to the frame for a few days 
until a fresh start is made, when I put them in a cool house 
from which frost can be excluded. As soon as they have filled 
these pots with roots they should be shifted into 5-inch pots, 
using three parts fibrous loam to one of sand and crushed 
oyster shells. 
Immediately the weather is favourable I place them in a 
cold frame, and on fine days the lights are lifted off for a few 
hours, and except in case of frost air should be left on at 
night. Here, in Torquay, we can usually stand our plants in 
the open early in April, but in most places it would not be 
advisable until May. About the last week in May I go over 
the plants and pick out a number of varieties that I know if 
grown on the single-stem system with three or four flowers 
on each, do not grow more than from 4 to 6 feet in height. 
These I repot, using good fibrous loam, a little half-inch bone, 
charcoal, and soot, and remove to their summer quarters. The 
others are kept rather dry for a week, and then cut down from 
4 to 6 inches from the pot. When the shoots have made a 
start these are reduced to three or five on each plant, and the 
latter repotted in same compost as the others. About the middle 
of July I examine the plants and select those I want for late 
work. These are pinched and are then allowed to grow, the 
others are staked. About the middle of August they commence 
to show their crown buds, which should be taken if dwarf 
plants with large flowers are required. At the end of September 
all, except the late plants, are taken under glass, keeping the 
late ones in a sheltered position and outdoors as long as possible. 
I never allow a plant, either early or late, to stay outdoors 
after the buds commence to show colour. By treating the 
plants as I have stated, I am able to arrange effective groups, 
and the plants range from about to 6 feet in height accord¬ 
ing to variety. Manures must be used after the pots are well 
filled with roots if the best results are to be obtained, and the 
foliage kept in good condition, which is very essential for decorative 
purposes. Almost any kind of manure will do for a change, and 
weak and often should be the rule. I always discontinue the use of 
stimulants after the buds are showing colour, as I believe the blooms 
retain their freshness of colour much longer by this means, and are not 
so given to damping. 
I only advise growing a limited number of varieties of Chrysan¬ 
themums that are known to be good for this purpose, and which 
prolong the period of flowering as much as possible. For early blooms 
Madame Desgrange, Mrs. Hawkins, and Madame G. Grunerwald, stopped 
early in April, will come into flower in June, and by stopping later 
plants these varieties will last until such kinds as Madame Lacroix, C. E. 
Shfa, VV. Holmes, and Lady Selborne are in bloom, which will form a 
succession until the midseason varieties are ready. For late purposes 
the following will be found indispensable—Admiral Sir Thos. Symons 
(single). The Virgin (single), Mrs. E. W. Clarke, Boule de Neige, Lady 
Lawrence, Kate Mursell, Boule d’Or, and Julie Lagravere. 
Carnations may be had in flower all the year round. Primulas, 
Salvias, Mignonette, and Zonal Pelargoniums are all well known useful 
p’ants. and require no further mention here. Azaleas, Rhododendrons, 
Arum Lilies, Roman and other Hyacinths, Cytisus, Deutzias, Spirma?, 
Marguerites, and winter flowering Begonias, with forcing and being 
retarded, may be spread over a long period. 
As to the arrangement of the plants I can say but little, as different 
places will require various styles, but one thing I will advise is never to 
