May 31, 1894. 
JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 
439 
to induce rest. They must not, however, be dried off, but have proper 
syringing and due supplies of water, and if the wood be soft the trees 
should be kept under glass until it is thoroughly ripened. 
Cucumbers. — Houses .—The weather has been very bright and the 
winds cold and sharp, rendering careful attention to ventilation 
imperative. It is a good plan to turn the heat off when the temperature 
is 75° on sunny mornings, and keep it off all the day, only using it to 
maintain a temperature of 65° to 70° at night, and 70° to 75° on dull 
days. This will lessen the necessity for air-giving and shading, which 
must be had recourse to when necessary to prevent flagging. Permanent 
shading is only desirable where no ventilation is given, then the greatest 
danger is about 4 to 5 p.m. with span-roofed houses facing the east and 
west, and whitewash is generally employed on the latter side of the house. 
Go over the plants frequently for stopping the growths, cutting out old 
ones and thinning where likely to become crowded. Liquid manure 
will be required two or three times a week, but top-dressing of chemical 
manures may be used between times with advantage. Maintain a good 
moisture by sprinkling surfaces as they become dry. Where straight 
fruits are required glasses should be used. 
In Frames .—Still continue night coverings and attend to the lining 
of the beds, as a good bottom heat is one of the best means of securing 
healthy root action and vigorous growths. Keep the growths fairly thin, 
and close suflSciently early to run up to 90° or 100°, sprinkling the 
plants lightly at closing time. Supply water at the roots as required, 
and always in a tepid state. 
THE KITCHEN GARDEN. 
Hunner Beans. —In many gardens the early sown rows of these 
were badly crippled by frosts on and about May 2l8t, but if sown 
thickly there may yet be enough plants left. They transplant readily, 
and if some have been raised in boxes or can be spared from among 
those to be reserved in the rows, many blanks may be filled or even 
whole rows formed with these. They ought to be put out or thinned to 
not less than 8 inches asunder, two plants at the most going to each tall 
pole or stake, and only one to short ones. Crowding Runner Beans is 
quite a mistake. Should there still be an insufficiency of rows, and the 
crop is a very important one, sow more seed at once, letting the plants 
have the benefit of a deep and rich root run. Any that are to be grown 
without stakes must be kept well pinched back. Once allow them to 
form much running growth, and they are soon of no further service. It 
pays well to protect Runner Beans with canvas, mats, branches of trees 
and such like, whenever frosts are imminent, and they are liable to be 
damaged up to the middle of June. 
Beet. —Apparently frosts did not injure the rows of Beet, but good 
progress has not been made either before or after the frosts. The roots 
obtained by dibbling out the thinnings when these are large enough to 
move are not good ; but they are serviceable at times, and, at any rate, 
it is better to transplant a few than have unsightly blanks in the rows. 
Select showery weather if possible for this work, and if this cannot be 
waited for, water the rows overnight, and next day further save the tap 
roots by loosening the ground with a pointed stick according as the 
plants are drawn. In dry weather give these newly moved plants water 
occasionally, and they will then soon take to their fresh quarters. It 
will be found that the Turnip-rooted forms succeed better after 
transplanting, than do the long rooted varieties. It is these also that 
are the most likely to attain a serviceable size if sown at this compara¬ 
tively late date. If Beet are left from 8 inches to 10 inches asunder in 
the rows they will become quite large enough, coarseness usually proving 
very objectionable. 
Carrots. —Directly the rows of these are well defined the flat hoe 
should be used between the rows, and if slugs are destroying the plants 
dust soot and lime freely over the beds while yet damp from dew or 
rain. It is from the outsides that che slugs principally start and return 
to. Carrots transplant badly, and if there are many gaps or failures the 
best way out of the difficulty is to sow more seed of Nantes Horn, Model, 
or other fairly large, quick-growing variety. If this is done at once, the 
thinnings will be very acceptable for use late in the summer, while the 
rest will become quite large enough for storing late. Thin Carrots in 
showery weather if: possible, and before they begin to spoil each other; 
not severely at first, and later on almost daily, or according as the 
tender young roots are wanted for use. The Horn varieties should be 
eventually left about 4 inches apart, and the rest from 6 inches to 
8 inches asunder, coarseness in this case, again, not answering well. 
Ctaicory, Salsafy, and Scorzonera. —Stir among the rows of 
these occasionally with the Dutch hoe, and thin while yet the plants 
can easily be drawn. Large roots of Chicory are desirable, therefore 
leave the plants 9 inches asunder in the rows. Thin Salsafy to a distance 
of about 8 inches, and Scorzonera 10 inches asunder. 
Onions.— These appear to have come up well in most gardens. If, 
however, there are any blanks fill these by transplanting at once. They 
move readily when comparatively small, and only very indifferently 
when near the size round of a quill pen. If the rows are disposed 
12 inches apart and the seed was sown thinly in rather wide drills, very 
little thinning out will be needed. The less the ground is loosened 
by drawing out plants the less likely are Onion maggots to be plentiful. 
Unless wanted extra large—and medium-sized to small roots are the 
most serviceable—leave the plants about 4 inches asunder, and if the 
roots eventually press against each other they are all the more likely to 
finish well. If fine roots are desired then thin to 6 inches. Sow 
soot freely among and over the plants in showery weather, and which is 
also the best time for sowing chemical manures of any kind among the 
rows, being careful that they do not lodge on the plants, or otherwise 
many of them may be crippled. Hoe the ground lightly after 
manuring. 
Parsnips. —Very large Parsnips are only desirable for exhibition 
purposes. It is the medium-sized roots that keep and cook best, and if 
these are wanted avoid over-thinning. Very good Parsnips can be had 
by leaving the plants 9 inches apart, and 12 inches will give large roots. 
Parsnips may be transplanted with a view to filling blanks, but the roots 
thus obtained are usually short. 
Turnips. —If the earliest sown rows of Early Milan are only lightly 
thinned, or so as to leave the plants well clear of each other, further 
thinning may be done according as the roots resemble over-grown 
Radishes, at which size they can be used. The Snowball and other 
larger topped varieties to be early thinned to about 9 inches apart in 
the rows. Sow more seeds in rather cool quarters, as Turnips do not 
keep good long during hot weather. 
Potatoes. —Those not moulded up before the frosts caught them 
will have been given a far more serious check than those that had a 
portion of their stems thus protected. These latter will branch out 
again quickly ; but those frozen down to near the planting tubers will 
never properly recover. Hoeing deeply or “hacking” among the rows 
has a most beneficial effect. Not only does it destroy many weeds, but 
it also lets in air and warmth to the roots. This should be done, and 
also soot or chemical manures sown between the rows well in advance 
of heavily moulding up the plants. Potatoes that have not been greatly 
weakened by the loss of one or more sets of sprouts may yet be planted 
on free working ground with every prospect of remunerative crops 
being had. 
Tomatoes. —The first week in June ought to see most of the plant¬ 
ing of Tomatoes done. Many plants are already out, but unless protected 
during frosty nights will have fared badly. In any case very little 
progress is made while yet the ground as well as the nights are cold. 
Comparatively young plants, or those only just showing their first 
bunch of flower, if duly hardened prior to planting out, will most pro¬ 
bably surpass much older ones. Tomatoes may be grown against sunny 
garden walls and fences, and high walls of plant houses and forcing 
pits. If there is not sufficient head room to admit of their being trained 
uprightly, then lay them in obliquely. When plants are abundant 
arrange them 1 foot apart, and allow no side shoots to develop; but if 
somewhat scarce they may be disposed either 2 feet or 3 feet asunder, 
laying in one or two side branches accordingly. A very rich soil is 
undesirable, but they will require one or two good shovelfuls of fresh 
loamy soil, with a little solid or artificial manure added per plant. In 
the event of the soil proving very hard or poor substitute quite fresh 
compost, a trench 2 feet wide and 1 foot in depth filled with new soil 
answering well; so also would a raised or temporarily formed border 
on a hard bottom. Wooden screens might be formed where there is an 
insufficiency of wall space available. 
During such seasons as that of 1893 Tomatoes succeed remarkably 
well quite in the open. In this case select a sunny yet sheltered border 
(they might be planted among early Potatoes), dispose the plants 2 feet 
asunder, and place a 4 feet stake to each. See that all are in a moist 
state at the roots previous to planting, and keep the old balls of soil 
and roots moist till such time as the roots have taken full possession of 
surrounding soil. 
APIARIAN NOTES. 
Chloric Dropsical Fever. 
Further strong microscopic investigations with the above 
disease in bees reveal nothing more but smaller cells in every way 
similar to those seen with lower powers. In one instance only 
there appeared an object rounded at the posterior, but otherwise in 
formation not unlike that of a shrimp. Hives attacked with the 
disease are those fed with sugar from the foundation and others 
having honey only. Probably the disease is hereditary through the 
perpetuation of spores, which develops at any time when exciting 
causes are present, perhaps from pollen of certain plants, or it may 
be from water impregnated with something favourable to its 
development. If I can trace anything definite as to the cause I 
will report, but meanwhile leave it with the above suggestions to 
abler persons for a solution. 
Brood Drawing. 
My time has been wholly occupied with one thing during the 
past week—viz., to prevent brood drawing. The only remedy is 
feeding, even to hives not in want. One hive I have never fed for 
the past twelve years had to be supplied with syrup. Last year 
at the same date every hive had a surplus of honey, and in several 
cases in fruit districts they had 100 lbs. This year the reports say, 
“ Hives are very light; we shall have to feed.” 
Two weeks ago there appeared in a local journal an article from 
BBE-KI)EPER.te 
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