June 7, 1894. 
JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 
461 
becomes proof against serious attacks, as the tissues of the leaves gain 
strength ; but even then long-continued dryness in the atmosphere and 
at the roots Invites attacks. 
Remedies for Cleanslngr Trees of Insects. —When the frequent 
use of clear water fails in keeping trees clean recourse must be had to 
some of the numerous insecticides to aid in the quick destruction of 
pests which infest them. A useful insecticide for destroying red spider 
on the under sides of leaves and aphides clustered on the points of 
Cherry and Plum trees may be made as follows :—Dissolve 3 ozs. of 
softsoap in a gallon of hot water, and stir in a handful of flowers of 
sulphur mixed into a paste with a little water. Dustings of tobacco 
powder by the aid of an indiarubber distributor is a ready means of 
killing aphides difficult to destroy effectively in other w^ays. Wash off 
the powder the next day with clear or soapy water. The softsoap and 
sulphur solution is good for exterminating mildew ; so also is sulphide 
of potassium, at the rate of half an ounce mixed in a gallon of water, 
spraying the solutions upon the affected parts with a knapsack sprayer 
or a syringe. Maggots that roll themselves up in the leaves must be 
picked out. Gooseberry trees infested with caterpillars ought to have 
as many shaken off as possible, and quickly destroyed with a dusting of 
lime and soot ; then syringe the trees with softsoap solution, which is 
better than using poisonous compounds where fruit is hanging and 
wanted for immediate use. 
Outdoor Vines. —Vines growing on walls and trellises will need 
attention in regulating the new growth and securing it in position. 
When the bunches of fruit show thin out to one on a lateral, selecting 
the stronger. Stop the shoots to one or two joints beyond the fruit. 
Where there is room to allow new wood to extend encourage it to do so, 
especially from the base. A frequent renewal of wood produces finer 
crops than do old spurs on thick branches. In the endeavour to provide 
such, however, avoid overcrowding, or the new wood cannot become 
properly ripened. Syringe the foliage occasionally in warm weather to 
prevent attacks of red spider and to remove dust, nourishing the roots 
as required with water, affording liquid manure in addition when a 
good crop of fruit commences swelling. 
FRUIT FORCING. 
Peacbes and M'ectarlnes. — Early Houses. —When trees of the 
very early varieties, such as Alexander, Waterloo, and Early Louise 
Peaches, Rivers’ Early and Lord Napier Nectarines have been cleared of 
the fruits, the shoots on which they were borne, if not required for the 
extension of the trees, should be cut away to allow light and air free 
access to the foliage. Syringe forcibly to cleanse the leaves of red 
spider, and if this and scale continue troublesome, the prompt appli¬ 
cation of an insecticide will be necessary to eradicate the pests. It is 
highly important that the foliage be kept healthy, and to prevent over¬ 
maturity or premature ripening of the wood it is necessary to keep the 
atmosphere of the house cool by ventilating to the fullest extent after the 
fruit is gathered, excepting when the weather be unusually cold and the 
wood somewhat sappy. Keep the borders moist, and in showery weather 
remove the roof lights. Keep gross laterals stopped, but avoid giving a 
check by a great reduction of foliage at one time, as this has a tendency 
to hasten the ripening of the growth, and when such is the case the 
trees will be swelling the buds or casting them through over-development 
when they should be resting. 
Trees of Hale’s Early, A Bee, Rivers’ Early York, Early Alfred, 
Dr. Hogg, Dymond, Stirling Castle, Royal George, and Grosse Mignonne 
Peaches, with Elruge or Stanwick Elruge and Goldoni Nectarines, in 
the same house or in a house to themselves, which is much the best, will 
be ripening their fruits, and must not be syringed unless the trees 
become infested with red spider. When water hangs on the fruits for 
any length of time after they commenc i ripening the skin is liable to 
crack and the edges of the fissures are soon attacked by mould, which 
imparts a musty flavour. The trees must not be allowed to suffer by 
want of water at the roots ; but any excess of moisture at this stage has 
a tendency to cause splitting at the stone. 
Houses Started Early in January. —Where the trees have been 
forced for several years consecutively they will have the fruit in the 
•condition described in the preceding paragraph, but where they are 
forced for the first time, or have been forwarded gently, the finest 
fruits will now be ripening. The leaves should be turned aside, and 
the fruit raised on laths placed across the trellis and secured with its 
apex to the light. This, however, ought to have been effected some time 
ago, and the fruit will, where that has been done, now have attained a 
good colour. If the weather prove dull and wet gentle fire heat will be 
necessary to secure a circulation of air constantly, the temperature being 
maintained at 60® to 65° artificially at night, and 5° to 10° more by day. 
Cease syringing as soon as the fruit begins to ripen or soften, and take 
care to have the foliage free from red spider before the syringing ceases, 
as the pest otherwise will increase so rapidly whilst the fruit is ripening 
as to seriously jeopardise future crops. See that there is no deficiency 
of moisture in the border, and, if necessary, give a thorough supply of 
water, mulching with about a couple of inches thickness of light, rather 
lumpy material, such as spent Mushroom-bed manure or partially decayed 
stable litter. 
Succession Houses. —Hurrying the trees during the stoning process 
is sometimes fatal to the fruit, therefore allow time for this most 
exhausting essential. Allow a free circulation of air, ventilating early 
in the morning, and close soon in the afternoon with an abundance of 
atmospheric moisture, so as to raise the heat to 80° or 85°, and ventilate 
a little afterwards for the night, the temperature being allowed to fall 
•to between 60° and 65°. This must only be practised after the stoning 
is completed, as a close atmosphere has a tendency to promote growth 
and is not favourable to that process, therefore avoid undue excitement 
when the trees are in that condition. When the fruits have stoned 
remove all surplus fruits, and turn the others with their apexes to the 
light to insure colour and even ripening from the apex. Allow a rather 
free extension of the laterals as an encouragement of root action, but be 
careful not to crowd the principal foliage, and keep insects in check by 
syringing twice a day. Give thorough supplies of water through a 
surface mulching, not more than 2 inches thick, of lumpy material, and 
supply weakly trees with tepid liquid manure. Vigorous trees will not 
need more than a surface mulching, as high feeding will only cause 
grossness, and must be studiously avoided. 
Late Houses. —Train and tie in the shoots that are to carry next 
year’s crop, allowing them to extend to a length of 15 inches or more if 
there be space, or stop them at about that size and pinch laterals to 
one leaf, being careful to avoid overcrowding. Young shoots required 
for extension or furnishing the trees should be allowed to extend as far as 
space admits, and pinch all side shoots on last year’s extensions that are not 
wanted for next year’s fruiting or furnishing the trees, so as to form spurs 
and secure an equal distribution of the sap. In thinning the fruit 
leave a few more than will be required for the crop. A Peach to every 
square foot of trellis covered by the trees is ample to secure the finest 
specimen of the large fruited varieties. The medium-sized and Nec¬ 
tarines may be left a little closer. Keep the leaves clean by syringing 
twice a day, and always sufficiently early to allow the foliage to become 
dry before night. If insects cannot be kept under by those means 
promptly apply an insecticide. Mulch the borders with a little short 
manure, or if the trees are young and vigorous lighter and less rich 
material will be more suitable. Water thoroughly whenever necessary, 
always giving sufficient at a time to reach the drainage. Ventilate early 
and increase the ventilation with the sun heat, closing soon in the after¬ 
noon if the fruit is required early. If the fruit is wanted late, however, 
keep the atmosphere as cool as possible by free ventilation day and 
night; 
Recently Planted or Young Trees. —These should be properly dis¬ 
budded, leaving the main branches or shoots for forming them 15 to 
18 inches asunder and the bearing wood at a similar distance on the last 
and previous year’s wood, training the extensions their full length and 
pinching the side shoots on last year’s wood that are not required for 
bearing or extension to two or three leaves, so as to form spurs ; but do 
not overcrowd the trees with foliage. These stubby side shoots often 
give good results v?hilst the trees are young, setting and stoning the fruit 
better than is the case on strong young wood. Pinch laterals at the first 
joint and successional growth as made. Avoid exciting too vigorous 
growth by the use of stimulants, using nitrogenous manures sparingly 
and an excessive supply of water at the roots, but employ phosphatic 
manure with a firm soil, so as to secure a free fibrous root formation and 
sturdy, short-jointed, thorough solidified wood. 
IMCelons. —In houses or hot-water heated pits where the fruit is 
ripening, a rather dry and warm condition of the atmosphere will be 
required, allowing a circulation of air constantly, moderating the 
moisture at the roots, but if the soil be kept too dry the foliage will 
suffer, the fruit being deteriorated in juiciness and quality, while the 
prospects of a second crop will be seriously interfered with if not 
rendered impracticable. When the crop is cleared prepare for another. 
If the plants have fallen a prey to red spider thoroughly cleanse the 
house, the woodwork with softsoapy water, the glass with water only, 
limewashing the walls, and removing the whole of the soil. If ferment¬ 
ing materials have been used for bottom heat add some fresh, and mix 
with the top foot or 18 inches of the old material, some of the most 
exhausted being removed. Make firm, put in ridges or hillocks of good 
strong loam, if not calcareous add some old mortar rubbish and road 
scrapings if deficient of grit. Tread well down in a couple of days, as 
the firmer the soil the shorter-jointed and more sturdy the plants will 
be, also more fruitful and the fruits more solid. In planting, too, make 
the soil firm about the roots, and the soil and ball being moist no water 
will be required until the plants have taken to the fresh soil. Shade for 
a few days from bright sun, and maintain a genial condition of the 
atmosphere by dam ping available surfaces in the morning and afternoon. 
Maintain a night temperature of 65° to 70°, 70° to 75° by day, ventilating 
between those degrees, keep through the day at 80° to 85° from sun heat, 
and close sufficiently early to increase it to 90° or more. 
APIARIAN NOTES. 
The article in the Journal of Horiiculture for May 10th has 
appearingly aroused the anxiety of some bee-keepers to know how 
to obtain large yields of honey. Several letters of inquiry to that 
effect have reached me. I cannot, however, tell the inquirers any 
more than what has appeared in these pages trom time to time for 
over thirty years. 
Some Good Honey. 
Having some business to transact near Leamahagow, and being 
anxious to see some of my old friends, I risked the journey on 
