JOURNAL OF H0RTIGULTUR3 AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 
June 14,1894. 
4GG 
MELON CULTURE IN FRAMES. 
Melon growing in frames is not practised at the present time 
to the extent it was years ago, inasmuch as houses can now be built 
and heated with hot water without very great expense. In the latter 
better Melons can be produced as a rule, and with much less trouble, 
especially where they are required early. To obtain fruit in May 
from plants grown in frames on hotbeds is not a very easy 
matter, though I think it is correct to say that many gardeners 
have produced ripe Melons early in that month before houses were 
so numerous as they are now, and doubtless there are persons who 
could give their experience of growing them in the old-fashioned 
way in pits sunk in the ground. 
To obtain satisfactory results hotbeds should be made for 
growing Melons in frames. The material must consist of manure 
from the stables, and be properly prepared by turning two or three 
times to sweeten, all lumps shaken to pieces, and if at all dry apply 
water as the operation proceeds. Prepared in this manner the heat 
will last much longer, and will not be too intense at first. It will 
take about a fortnight or three weeks before the material is ready 
for making the bed, the size of which must depend on the size of 
frame or frames to be used. It should be large enough to allow 
about 9 inches margin all round the outside of frame. In making 
the bed do not tread the manure, but beat well down with the 
back of the fork. This will cause it to settle even, and the heat to 
be better distributed. If early in the season the bed should be not 
less than 4 feet high at the back and 3 feet 6 inches in front; later 
on when the weather is warmer 6 inches or a foot less than this 
will do. 
With care fruit may be obtained for at least three months ; but 
it is not advisable to plant before the first week in March, or much 
later than the end of May or in June. It takes about three months 
ta produce ripe fruit, so plants put out early in March will have 
Melons ready in June, while those planted at the later dates will 
perfect crops at the end of August or in September, though the 
weather will to some extent influence this. The seed should be 
sown from four to five weeks before the time required for planting, 
as young healthy seedlings do better than those that have been 
root-bound for some time. A moderately heavy loam is best suited 
for growing Melons, and nothing ought to be mixed with it ; but 
if the loam be very close and heavy one part in five of burnt garden 
refuse may be incorporated with it. This will not only render the 
soil porous but will also act as a stimulant. Ordinary garden soil 
will do unless it is very rich in humus, this latter inducing a too 
sappy growth. When the frame is ready for the soil, which will 
be in about a week or more according to the heat in the bed, it is 
a good plan to procure some fresh turves and lay them grass side 
downwards on the manure, putting the soil on these. The turves 
will prevent the roots being burnt should the bed be very hot. 
Sometimes the heat will remain too strong for a long time and 
cause a delay of planting. If such occurs make some holes in the 
sides of the bed, which will soon reduce the heat; these ought to 
be filled immediately the temperature ranges from 80° to 90°. Put 
in about one-third of the soil, laying it in a ridge along the centre 
of the frame ; the rest may be added by degrees, the last addition 
being made just after the fruits are set ; but exercise care in 
putting soil in the frame at this time, for should the stems 
of the plants be twisted or damaged in any way it may cause 
canker. 
Keep the plants well up so that the water, when it is applied, 
may have a tendency to drain away from the stems. The latter 
will also receive more light, consequently will be hardier. Two 
plants can be placed in each light close together, one trained to 
the back, the other to the front of the frame. These need not 
be stopped until they reach to within 9 inches or a foot of the 
frame. Another, and, in my opinion a better plan, is to place one 
plant in each light. Pinch the point out when it has made four 
leaves, and this will result in four growths being made, which 
may be trained to each corner, and stopped as advised for the 
others. The laterals that push from these should bear both 
staminate and pistillate blooms. Sometimes the latter may be 
absent, and if so these laterals must be stopped at one leaf. The 
secondary growths will then invariably give fruit-bearing blooms. 
This rule also holds good when a lateral takes the lead of others. 
As many pistillate flowers as possible should be open at once, 
30 that they may all be fertilised about the same time. By attend¬ 
ing to the above rule this can generally be accomplished. When 
t VO or three fruits set and commence swelling prematurely, it is a 
difficult matter to induce the remainder of the crop to finish. A dry 
and brisk atmosphere should be maintained when the plants are in 
flower. Look over the blooms about noon each day, and fertilise 
until sufficient are set. The number will depend on for what 
purpose the fruit may be wanted. As a rule medium-sized Melons 
are preferable to large ones for ordinary purposes, so that six or 
seven will be a fair crop for each plant to carry, and about four 
if larger fruit is required. 
When the fruits have set, all blooms should be picked off and 
no more allowed to open. Attend to the plants as regards stopping, 
which is a very important point in growing Melons in frames. 
Laterals bearing fruit ought to be stopped at one or two leaves 
beyond the fruit, and succeeding growths at one leaf, unless any 
part of the frame is bare, when a lateral may be allowed to extend 
a few leaves before being stopped. Pinching should always be 
done by the finger and thumb, and in the early stage of its forma¬ 
tion. It is a mistake to allow a large number of long growths to 
be made, and then to cut these all away at one time ; in fact, a 
knife should never be used. If from pressure of other work, 
however, the plants are neglected, thin them out by degrees, and 
choose if possible a bright sunny day. The great thing to be 
aimed at is to have the frame full of good sized robust leaves, 
but no more than will receive the benefit of the sun. A number 
of weak growths will often issue from the base, but rub these 
off, and do not allow the stem to be much shaded by the main 
leaves ; this will act as a preventive of canker. Should the 
plants become infested with insects or the foliage damaged in any 
way, new growth must then be encouraged. Close stopping must 
not be resorted to when the fruits are ripening, or it will cause 
them to split. Immediately the fruits commence to swell each 
one ought to be laid on their ends on a piece of slate, inverted 
saucer, or flower pot to keep them clean. 
The temperature should be 65° at night ; 5° lower than this 
will not do much harm, but it must not go below 60°. The day 
temperature ought to Ije 70°, and with sun heat from 80° to 90°, 
with free ventilation. The frame will have to be covered with 
single or double mats at night, according to the state of the weather, 
until the second week in June, when they can generally be 
dispensed with. The necessary heat cannot be maintained without 
placing a lining round the frame ; this may be about 2 feet in 
width at the bottom, 6 inches less at top, and should reach to the 
top of the frame. It need not be put up all at once, but by 
degrees, making it at the back first, and at the ends and front as 
required When the lining is made the bed must be cut down 
even with the frame, or nearly so, mixing the material with that 
used for making the lining. Let out the hot steam from this if 
any goes in the frame, or it may injure the plants. Some moist 
sifted soil laid along the inside of frame will keep the steam out¬ 
side. In covering the mats ought not to hang over the lining, for 
this will enclose the steam, but should be turned back, and a board 
laid along to keep them in position. 
Melons require copious supplies of water, especially during hot 
weather, using it at a temperature of 70° or 80°. If allowed to 
become dry at the roots red spider will soon appear. Though 
abundance of water is required, the plants must not be damped 
every day, the same as a Cucumber ; in fact, when the frame is 
full of foliage syringing ought not to be done, unless in very hot 
weather, when a fine sprinkling may be given occasionally at closing 
time. A close and moist atmosphere makes the leaves thin in 
texture, and very susceptible to injury. Water will be required 
once or twice a week, according to the weather. Choose a fine 
bright day for watering, and as early in the afternoon as possible, 
to be safe from the sun, so that air may be left on to allow the 
foliage to dry before closing the frame. In hot weather a little 
ventilation may be left on all night. Too much water must not 
be given when the fruit is ripening, but enough to keep the 
foliage fresh and green. It should not be applied nearer the stem 
than 6 or 8 inches, or canker may occur. 
There are several causes of canker, some of which have been 
mentioned. Cold water applied to the roots, and a too low and 
moist atmosphere also favour it. During a spell of cold sunless 
weather the plants should be kept rather dry. The stem may 
become wet through drip ; but this can be prevented by putting a 
square of glass over it, elevated by a stick at each corner. Should 
canker appear, lime is a good thing to rub on the affected part and 
to lay round the collar, but when this becomes damp it must be 
replaced by fresh. Portland cement is also useful for the same 
purpose. I have found this better than lime in some cases. The 
fruit will require examining occasionally, for the under side may be 
damp and soft, and should be laid on one side to dry. Sometimes 
woodlice give trouble when the fruits are ripening by eating boles 
in them, especially on the under side ; traps must be laid to catch 
the pest, or a toad can be put in the frame. If a fruit is inclined 
to crack round the stem before it is ripe enough for cutting, the 
lateral which bears it should be cut half way through to check the 
flow of sap. Melons are better cut a few days before being used. 
If the plants are clean and healthy, when the fruits are nearly full 
grown, a few growths may be allowed to extend from near the 
