June 14, 1894. 
JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 
467 
centre of frame, and when the crop is cut the old parts can be 
removed, the young growths being encouraged. These will flower 
and set very freely, and by proper attention to stopping and 
watering a second crop of fruit may be obtained.—J. S. Upex. 
This Orchid, represented in the illustration (fig. 76), is not so 
extensively grown as are some kinds, but it is worthy of greater 
attention than is usually given it. The colouring of the bloom is 
exceedingly peculiar. The sepals and petals are greenish, the lip 
white or yellow tinted. It was received from the Cordilleras some 
years ago, and as a rule can only be found in collections of Orchidic 
curiosities. 
Nigro-hirsute Dendrobiums. 
These species of Dendrobium, the stems of which are covered 
with minute black hairs, are quite a distinct section of the genus. 
They are all attractive and beautiful plants. Though not so easily 
managed as most of the other kinds, they can with care be induced 
to grow and flower for a number of years, providing healthy plants 
are procured in the first instance. 
Probably the best known of this section is D. formosum. This 
species when imported can be easily established on teak, birch, or 
other hardwood blocks. Newly sawn oak is unsuitable for Orchids. 
After one set of pseudo-bulbs has been made the bare block treat¬ 
ment is, however, too poor for this species, and something in the 
way of compost must be given, either by dressing the blocks with 
sphagnum or by inserting them entire into hanging baskets. Rafts 
are also very suitable if lightly dressed with moss, and preferable 
to baskets because of the free exposure of the roots to air. 
D. formosum delights in a hot and very moist atmosphere while 
making its growth, and should never be quite dry at any time. 
Although most of the nigro-hirsute species are naturally deciduous, 
the blossoms are always finer under cultivation from bulbs that 
have retained their foliage through the winter. 
D. infundibulum is a very elegant species when well cultivated, 
requiring less heat than D. formosum. It is most satisfactory 
when grown in small pots in a temperature such as suits the 
warmer section of Odontoglossum, or rather cooler than the 
Cattleya house. D. Jamesianum is said to be a variety of 
D. infundibulum, but is a little different in habit. The lip is also 
marked with orange red instead of yellow as in the latter, but the 
culture is in every way similar. 
D. draconis is another superb species requiring tropical treat¬ 
ment while growing. It is more easily grown than D. formosum, 
and unlike that species requires a good season of rest in a 
cooler house. Very little water is required from November 
until March, but the somewhat slender pseudo-bulbs most not 
be allowed to shrivel. 
D. Lowi is a kind seldom seen, but very distinct and pretty. 
The flowers are pale yellow, with crimson lines on the lip. I have 
grown this species on a block in an Eist Indian house, but 
although it flowered freely every year the growths made were 
never so good as the old pseudo-bulbs that were on the plant when 
imported. Cool treatment has been recommended for this species, 
but as I have never tried it I cannot say whether it would be 
successful or not. If any readers of the Journal of HorUculture 
have tried this plant in a cool house, it would be interesting if they 
would record their experience with it. 
All the nigro-hirsute Dendrobiums are peculiarly liable to be 
attacked by yellow thrip. This pest must be kept under if the 
best results are to be attained, for no plant can continue in health 
with the constant drain upon its resources which the presence of 
these and other insects entails. 
Brassias. 
Orchids that produce bright showy fl jwers are the most likely 
to become popular, and the absence of bright colours probably 
accounts for the unpopularity of Brassias. These Orchids, never¬ 
theless, have many good points, 'i hey last a long while in bloom, 
are easily grown, and produce their flowers very freely. These 
latter are also very quaint in appearance, and considering the habit 
cf the plants, are of comparatively large size. The cultural 
requirements of Brassias are of the simplest and most ordinary 
desciiptioD. Grown in an inttrmodiate temperature with peat and 
sphagnum for a rooting medium, abundance of water while growing, 
and a decided period of rest, they will be a source of satisfaction 
and pleasure to anyone who gives them a trial. 
B. antherotes is a fine species, possibly the best in the genus. 
The healthy vigorous spikes bear a large number of flowers. The 
sepals are long, slightly twisted, yellow. The petals are shorter, 
similar in colour, but with a dark brown blotch at the base. The 
lip is yellow with chocolate markings. Each flower is upwards of 
6 inches across. Brassias Giroudeana, Lanceana, and Lawrenceana are 
all very much alike. The flowers are a pale greenish tinge at first, 
deepening in colour with age to golden yellow spotted and barred 
with brown. They usually flower in order as named. In B. macu- 
lata the sepals and petals are more equal in length. The lip is 
large and prominent with purple streaks and spots. 
B. verrucosa is a distinct and attractive species, which does well 
in a cool house. The flowers are greenish white, the lip pure 
white, with the exception of the singular warty protuberances that 
FIG. 76.—LYCASTE COBTATA. 
are thickly produced upon it. A very fine variety of this plant and 
B. Wraysi were in good condition lecently at Mr. W. Bull’s 
exhibition of Orchids. 
Burlingtonias. 
Though by no means difficult to grow, Burlingtonias are not 
always seen in as good condition as is desirable. A frequent cause 
of failure is potting the plants in a mixture of peat and moss, such 
as used for pseudo-bulbous Orchids generally. They are also often 
kept too dry at the roots and in the atmosphere both during the 
growing season and in the winter. Frequently, too, white scale 
robs the plants of their strength. 
With such species as B. decora, which produces its bulbs at 
some distance from each other upon the rhizome, it is a mistake to 
allow them to ramble away year after year, getting farther and 
farther from the compost. Burlingtonias require a r oting medium 
similar to that used for di^‘tichous-leav€d Orchids, viz., a layer of 
sphagnum over, thorough and effective drainage, and a few pieces 
of potsherd or charcoal mixed with the layers of moss. They all 
thrive in baskets or shallow pans suspended from the roof in the 
Cattleya house. When newly imported B. decora and its varieties 
should be placed in pans filled with crocks, no moss being given at 
