July 7, 11687. ] 
JOtim-At OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTaGE GARDENER. 
1 
Bith.Farnham, FarniDgtiam, Ipswich, Malvern, Reign te, and Winchester 
Hitchin and Maidstone Shows. r ; 03e Shows 
Crystal Palace Show. 
5th Sunday after Trinity, 
Royal Horticultural Society, Committees at 11 A )[. 
Edinburgh Rose Show (N.K.S ). 
NOTES FOR DRY WEATHER. 
HAT is best to be clone in weather such as we 
have experienced up to the present time is 
somewhat puzzling to determine with satis¬ 
faction to ourseives and with, benefit to the 
objects of our charge. The thermometer 
gives daily indications of higher tempera¬ 
tures than have been known for many years. 
On one day in the walled garden over 90° 
in the shade was indicated, and the general daily range 
is either 80° or over it. A soft breeze somewhat 
tempers the heat, so that animals are less heavily burdened 
than might have been. But alas! for the flowers. The 
surface of the soil is a layer of heated dust, and the breeze, 
so grateful to man and beast, is only another item which 
goes to break up the life of the plant. 
It is a rule with the inexperienced to fly to the water¬ 
ing pot in seasons of drought, and there is no gainsaying 
the utility of the application of water. Given heat and 
abundance of water, with manurial agents in due propor¬ 
tion, we secure an abundant growth. Therefore the rule 
is a good one. But in a large garden with pot plants, 
fruit houses, flower gardens, shrubberies, Ac., each call¬ 
ing for attention, with a supply of labour power and of 
water itself inadequate to the requirements of the place, 
there must be some modification of the rule. 
It may therefore be of service to look at what must be 
watered, and the best method of supporting plants in very 
dry weather, and as a means of helping them to pass through 
a period of drought with as little damage as possible. It 
goes without saying that all plants in pots and in borders 
must be watered, but although that is a patent fact there 
are methods of management which help to save both 
labour and water. Though apparently paradoxical, a good 
way to save water is to apply it to plants before the soil 
turns to dryness. I found out this truth through experi¬ 
ence in the dry seasons which occurred before and after 
1870. Many of the plants in large pots required water 
three times a day, the water had to be conveyed a good 
distance by manual labour, and consequently the easiest 
method was in favour. I do not wish it to be inferred 
that the reason for watering before dryness was apparent 
was because it saved labour. It was thought to be better 
for the well-being of the plants to keep them constantly 
moist, and it was only found out in a secondary way that 
less water was required to do this than when the soil was 
allowed to become dry before watering. Experience since 
then has repeatedly proved this to be the case. It is 
much better for plants no matter whether in pots or in 
borders, outdoors or in, and better for all kinds of 
things requiring to be watered—even shrubs—to give it 
No. 3G7.—Yon. XV., Tittro Series. 
before dryness, and in all cases it takes less water ami 
therefore less labour. 
Shade from direct sunshine is also of importance. In 
such strong heat as has come upon us plants do not 
sutler from the direct rays of the sun being denied them, 
perhaps the opposite ; at any rate they do with less water. 
Then the pots of plants which are exposed should be 
protected. This is doubtless most efficiently secured by 
plunging in earth or other material. I have also found 
it of benefit to mulclr the surface of pots with some light 
open material. With regard to borders, no approach to 
dryness should be allowed, and by all means they ought to 
be mulched. Flower beds or borders requiring water 
should in each case be treated on their merits. Where 
plants are large and closely set together water the whole 
of the ground. If the plants are not very deeply rooted 
give about 1 to lj inch. If down to a good depth as 
much as 3 inches will be none too much. When half 
dried the ground must be hoed slightly over the surface. 
There are slightly over 6 gallons of water in a cubic foot. 
An inch of water is therefore provided by applying 
1 gallon to every 2 feet by 1 foot of surface; but in 
the case of smaller plants* and where it would be .waste¬ 
ful to soak the ground, the best method is either to draw 
drills by removing the dry surface soil and pouring the 
water therein, or the dry soil may be removed from 
round each plant,, a basin formed, and the water poured 
in. The dry soil in both cases is drawn over the watered 
portion, and thus in some measure forms a mulching. 
It may be noted that of the commoner bedding plants 
those that it is most necessary to water are Calceolarias, 
Violas, Lobelias, Ageratums, Golden Feather, Iresines, 
and Alternantheras. When once started into growth, 
Pelargoniums, Kimiga,- Marguerites, Grasses, and succu¬ 
lents do fairly well without watering. It is of the greatest 
benefit to all flowering plants to remove regularly flowers 
which are beginning to decay. Soil which has been well 
firmed where at all inclined to be naturally open is less 
liable to get dry, and retains water longer than if left 
loose. 
With regard to shrubs, it is doubtful if there is a more 
neglected class in times of drought, and certainly none 
suffer more permanently where neglected. There are 
some soils where shrubs thrive so well that it is only 
necessary to plant and they will grow through all changes 
of weather. We are not fortunate in a kind soil of that 
nature. In the best qualities water is found to act most 
beneficially, and in the worst — mostly pure sand ov 
gravel—we find it necessary to water shrubs for a few 
years during times of drought. Some species require 
more water than others. For instance, Conifera? once 
started fairly may be left to take care of themselves. 
Portugal Laurels are \vor.se to establish than any others 
of the family. Yews generally take a large amount of 
attention, Irish Yews being the least easy to manage. 
With Rhododendrons it is very much a question of soil. 
We have those that havq become strong healthy plants 
without requiring any wafer other than rain, and others 
which have needed looking to for several seasons. Again, 
in watering shrubs it is essential that the condition of the 
roots be well known, for a plant with a ball of healthy 
roots requires more at a time but less often than another 
floes with a poor ball, or none at all, and few roots. A well- 
jplanted shrub should have had the soil surrounding its 
'roots wrnll broken, and this as well as the ball must be 
(moistened. In light, soils'; they should be planted a little 
below the level, and a basin left for watering. A little 
No. 2023.— Yot.. LXXVIT., Oil SeeIer. : 
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