18 
JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 
[ July 7, 1887. 
fibrous loam, but more lumpy than for suckers, adding a sprinkling of 
half-inch bones, and to prevent worms entering the pots a handful of 
soot or wood ashes may be sprinkled over the drainage. 
Cucumbers. —A few seeds may now be sown for late summer and 
early autumn fruiting. They will germinate, and the seedlings be 
fit to plant out in about a month. Attention must be given to plants in 
bearing, thinning the exhausted growths and foliage, laying in young 
bearing wood, stopping one joint beyond the fruit, and earthing the 
roots periodically. Copious supplies of liquid manure will be required 
about twice a week, or as may be necessary, but avoid applying it too 
strong, syringing at closing time, and maintaining a good moisture all 
day by sprinkling every available surface as necessary, but more 
frequentlyin hotweather than when dull. Do notovercrop young plants, 
and do not allow the fruits to hang too long, as upon attention to this 
depends in a measure a good and continuous supply. 
Figs.—T he first crop in the early house is gathered, and more 
moisture in the atmosphere will be desirable, therefore resume syring¬ 
ing the trees twice daily, and sprinkling the house as advised before the 
fruit commences colouring. Thinning the fruit, if plentiful, must be 
free, reserving those which are nearest the base of the shoots. Tie in 
the growths to the trellis as they advance, stopping or removing such as 
are not required, regulating those retained, so that they may receive the 
beneficial effects of light and air to mature them perfectly. Do not 
.allow the trees to suffer by want of water ; those in pots or planted out 
in borders of limited extent will require water frequently, affording on 
every occasion some stimulating food—such as guano or other manure. 
Where crops are ripening constantly maintain a free circulation of dry 
warm air, which is essential to the Figs ripening perfectly. Trees in 
pots required for early forcing must not be neglected in syringing 
occasionally, attending with regularity to the watering, supplying 
liquid manure. 
Melons. —It is important that the late plants be planted out 
without delay, especially where the means of affording artificial heat 
is confined to fermenting materials. Whether grown in pits or frames 
a sufficiency of fermenting materials should be used to raise a bottom 
heat of about 90°, so as to start the plants quickly. In houses as the 
crops are cleared, the plants, if exhausted, should be removed, and pre¬ 
parations made for a fresh start at the earliest opportunity ; but if the 
plants are in good health it is folly to root them out, as they will come 
into bearing again much sooner than young plants, and are in every way 
more tractable ; indeed if the plants are not overcropped, do not suffer 
for water at the roots, and if the foliage is kept healthy they 
will continue bearing as late as it is desirable. When the crop is cut the 
plants should be divested of most of the old or damaged leaves, fresh 
growths beiDg encouraged in the place of any exhausted, which should 
be cut away. The surface of the bed should be loosened, and the loose 
surface soil removed, applying a couple of inches in depth of fresh loam, 
giving a good watering, and when growth is taking place afford a free 
application of liquid manure, and treat as for former crops. When 
Melons are grown upon the continuous system it is well to note that the 
laterals will grow freely and show fruit abundantly after a few joints of 
growth. The flowers after being fertilised will set and the fruits will 
swell freely, so that sufficient moisture only need be accorded to main¬ 
tain the plants in continuous bearing. Attend to stopping, thinning, 
tying, or otherwise regulating the shoots, not allowing pressure of work 
in other departments to interfere with this, or the results will be detri¬ 
mental. Successional plants should be earthed up as soon as the roots 
show at the sides of the hillocks, making the soil firm, being careful that 
the plants do not suffer by want of water, and, on the other hand, are 
not too wet. To plants swelling their fruits supply liquid manure, but 
be careful not to give too much. Maintain a bottom heat of 80° to 85°, 
and afford a moist atmosphere to growing crops, syringing freely, except¬ 
ing when the fruit is setting or ripening, being careful not to allow one 
or two fruit to take the lead, but have them all as nearly as possible of 
one size on a plant. 
PLANT HOUSES. 
Ericas .—When these plants are used during their flowering season 
in the conservatory, be careful not to crowd other plants about them. 
Serious damage is frequently done to hardwooded varieties during the 
time they occupy such places ; crowding so as to exclude light from 
their foliage means destruction in a very short time. First the 
leaves turn brown and eventually fall, which not only gives a severe 
check to the roots, but renders the plants unsightly. Light and air are 
essential features in the culture of these plants. After flowering 
nothing is gained by any attempt to push them into growth. After the 
fading flowers have been removed the plants should have cool airy treat¬ 
ment, gradually exposing them to full light and air stood on ashes in an 
open aspect outside. The full force of the sun shining on their branches 
will not injure them, but the pots must be protected, or the silk-like 
roots of the plants will be severely injured. Varieties that it is 
necessary to retard may be kept in a northern aspect where they can be 
kept perfectly cool. Young stock that it is intended to grow on as 
rapidly as possible may have any shoots that are taking the lead pinched 
so as to induce the formation of a duly proportioned plant. If well 
rooted in the pots in which they were placed in February last, they may 
be transferred into others 2 inches larger. Use a compost of fibry peat 
to which is added a liberal dash of sand. In potting, drain well and 
liberally, be careful not to disturb the old ball, and press the new soil 
firmly about the roots. The collar of the plant must not be buried 
deeper than has been previously the case. Plenty of room should be 
ft in the pots to hold sufficient water to soak the whole ball. Water 
le 
carefully, but do not allow them to become dust dry or suffer in the 
least by an insufficient supply, or serious injury will certainly result. 
Softwooded Ericas. —These are much better outside fully exposed to 
the sun than crowded closely together in frames. The same provisioa 
should be made for the protection of their pots, or if the plants are in 
from 5 to 7 inch pots the outer rows may be plunged, or partially so, and 
these, if arranged in beds not too far apart, will afford ample shade to 
the pots in which the inner rows of plants are growing. Syringe liberally 
twice daily, and be careful that the ashes or other material upon which' 
they stand is kept moist. Epacrises that have made good growth may 
be placed outside to harden and ripen ; in fact, the treatment advised 
for softwooded Heaths will suit them well. Later plants may still be 
encouraged in cold frames. 
Azaleas. —Early varieties will by this time have set their flower buds. 
Plants in this condition cannot be retained under glass during the re¬ 
mainder of the season, or they will flower early in September when they 
are not wanted. Gradually harden them and remove them to cool out¬ 
side quarters. If exposed suddenly to the full force of the sun their 
foliage will be very much browned, but if stood in a light partially 
shaded place they will have ample time to thoroughly ripen their wood, 
and at the same time their flower buds will be retarded. Give all the 
air possible day and night to those that have completed their growth 
and about to form flower buds. This must be done gradually at first if 
the plants have been subjected to a close moist atmosphere. Until it is. 
certain that flower buds are forming maintain a slightly drier atmo¬ 
sphere, but do not diminish the supply of water at their roots. Watch 
carefully for thrips, for if any exist in the house they are certain to 
attack the plants during the time the syringe is withheld. Water freely, 
and syringe liberally those that are in active growth. Shade them from 
the sun, and close the house early in the afternoon while the sun is 
upon it. 
Celosias. —Those intended for winter decoration should now be well 
established in 3-inch pots ; they must not be allowed to become root- 
bound before they are placed into 5 'and 6-inch pots. Place a stake to 
each plant, theD grow under cool airy treatment after they are once 
rooting freely in the new soil. When these plants are required for 
winter decoration they must be developed under hardier conditions than 
when required for the summer. Plants that are in a backward state 
and require pushing forward under close treatment, more especially in, 
their later stages, are very liable to damp off during the dull days of 
winter. To avoid such consequences press the soil firmly into the pots, 
and induce the plants by giving air abundantly to make a dwarf sturdy 
growth. 
Cyclamens. —The earliest plants should now be placed in 6-inch 
pots and arranged on ashes in cold frames or in low light houses. Use 
for a compost good fibry loam three parts, and one part leaf mould and 
sand ; one-seventh of cow manure may also be added. Keep the frame 
or house close for ten days or a fortnight, and then give plenty of air 
and only sufficient shade to break the strong rays of the sun. If over¬ 
shaded the foliage is drawn weakly and the plants are quickly ruined. 
Water carefully at first, but never allow them to become dry ; syringe 
them heavily twice daily, and keep the material upon which they are 
standing moist. Give to later plants the same treatment until they are 
ready for their largest pots. Seed may now be sown in a pan in a warm 
house for the earliest supply of plants for another year. 
Camellias.— Plants that were assisted early in the season to make 
their growth under the influence of heat and a close atmosphere will 
have completed it by this time. The main object to be attained is. 
to prevent the plants starting into fresh growth, as, if they 
do, flowers will not be forthcoming. In order to avoid this maintain 
drier atmospheric conditions about the plants, at the same time do not- 
allow them to suffer by insufficient water at their roots. Give air 
abundantly and admit more light to them. This will harden and ripen 
the wood, and the formation of flower buds will be certain. Without 
brown, hard well matured wood a good crop of fine flowers cannot be 
expected. As soon as the flower buds are visible the syringe may on aM, 
brio-ht days be freely used, and a moister atmosphere given to the plants. 
Feeding with weak stimulants may also be resorted to, for in no stage 
do Camellias need assistance more in this matter than during the de¬ 
velopment of their flower buds. Directly the buds commence swelling 
syringe the plants thoroughly with petroleum and water, 1 oz. of the 
former to each gallon of the latter. This in addition to proving a. 
stimulant will destroy any insect pests that are upon the plants, and 
cleanse the foliage from dirt; in fact, it imparts to the foliage a dark, 
green glossy appearance, as if they had all been thoroughly sponged. 
THE FLOWER GARDEN AND PLEASURE GROUND. 
Spring Bedding Plants. —These during June usually experience- 
rather rough treatment, nor is this greatly to be wondered at, seeing how 
much labour has, this season especially, to be expended on refilling the- 
beds with their summer occupants. They must not long be laid in by 
the heels or neglected in any way, or many may not be available for next 
winter. All must have plenty of water, particularly those evergreen* 
and Conifers that have small balls and roots. The latter if once allowed 
to become very dry can only be moistened and kept alive by soaking 
them in a tub or pail of water prior to replanting them in good light 
soil, or where they are to remain till wanted again. When it is necessary 
to lift Crocuses, Snowdrops, Hyacinths, Tulips, Narcissi, and Scillas, 
they ought for a time to be laid in the ground, and when the foliage is- 
well ripened the bulbs may be taken up and stored in boxes of sand_ 
• A dry cool shed is the best place for keeping the bulbs, but they must be 
