July 14, 1S87. ] 
JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 
19 
plentiful, promise to be exceptionally small. Very heavy rains would 
be needed to well moisten the ground, and in any case we advise good 
waterings being given for two nights in succession. A mulching of 
cither strawy manure or lawn grass ought to be given, unless this has 
been already done. A marked improvement in the quality of the crop 
will soon follow this treatment. It is advisable to also freely thin out 
the young canes, leaving as many only as are needed for fruiting next 
sea.on. 
WATERING* ROSES. 
Alarmed by the extraordinary drought of last month I made efforts 
to afford my Hoses, a small number in a small space, regular sup¬ 
plies of water—hard only—but always well tempered by long standing 
in the sun. At least three times a week the Roses were liberally supplied 
at the roots with sutllcient quantities of water, without interfering with 
the delicate roots. Wide channels were made, which were patiently and 
continuously filled and re-filled till the ground was well and deeply 
soaked. At the same time, or just after, each tree was carefully watered 
over the foliage also with tempered water, and when the sun was off. The 
result has surpassed my expectations ; my Roses are better, cleaner, finer 
m bloom and foliage than I have ever seen them, and have won high 
encomiums from others, as well as from their gratified attendant— 
A. M. B. 
PACKING FRUIT FOR TRAVELLING. 
A correspondent having desired us to publish the “ instructions 
that were issued several years ago by the Pomological Society,” we have, 
after some trouble, discovered them, and comply with the request:— 
“ I ruit should be protected against injury from pressure, by being 
packed in boxes or stout baskets ; very light baskets, and frails, are 
frequently used, and damage more or less is invariably the result. 
“ Against injury from shaking, or turning over, it should be guarded 
firstly, by using cases of moderate dimensions in every direction, or 
larger cases with partitions in them, that there may not be too great a 
bulk to move about within the package ; secondly, by laying the separate 
articles so closely and compactly together that they shall just keep each 
other steady without crushing. This last is, perhaps, the most important 
matter of all—no fruit suffers so much as that which is loosely packed. 
Common sense, of course, dictates, that in packing soft and solid fruits 
in the same case the latter should be laid in the bottom ; if, however, 
the box is turned upside down on its journey, this arrangement becomes 
valueless ; and, to guard against such casualties, horizontal partitions of 
thin deal should be dropped into the box between layers of soft and solid 
fruit, and secured in their position by nailing or otherwise. 
“ Fruit is also frequently damaged in flavour by being packed in moss, 
brown paper, straw, or hay chaff, or other substances which impart their 
aroma and flavour to all delicate and absorbent fruits which are sur¬ 
rounded by them. If such materials are used, the fruit should be 
separately enclosed in tissue, cap, or writing paper, cotton wool, leaves, 
or other scentless material. 
“ The bloom of certain fruits is best preserved if they are packed in 
young Nettle-tops, partially dried. Stout cartridge paper is also ex¬ 
cellent for the purpose, as it keeps them steady, without pressure upon 
more than a small portion of their surface, and its stiffness prevents 
crushing. 
“ Pine Apples travel with least injury to the crown if folded up in a 
piece of stout cartridge paper, and firmly but not tightly secured by 
matting. 
“ Grapes carry be t if tied down to the bottom of a shallow box, in 
the manner first used by Mr. Fleming, of Trentham, at the London ex¬ 
hibitions. The next best method is to enclose each bunch separately in 
a piece of stout cartridge paper—folding it somewhat like a grocer's 
pound package of sugar—ami placing them as close together in a box as 
they will lie without crushing. 
“ Melons should be enclosed in cap paper, placed in a box, and sur¬ 
rounded by chaff, bran, or dry sawdust. 
“ Peaches, Nectarines, and Apricots should be carefully enclosed in a 
piece of tissue paper, and kept separate from each other by cotton wool. 
The two former when sent to be named should always be accompanied 
by leaves; and information should be sent as to the size of the 
flowers, whether large or small. 
“ Plums, when the bloom is important, should be rolled up, six or 
eight together, in a piece of cartridge paper, and tied round with 
matting. When the bloom is not important, they may be packed in 
Strawberry or similar leaves. The first should always be accompanied 
by leaves and wood. 
“ Cherries, Gooseberries, and Currants travel very well under general 
circumstances if laid together in small shallow baskets or punnets, 
covered with leaves, and tied over with paper. 
“ Strawberries, Raspberries, and Mulberries should be packed in 
shallow boxes or punnets, each fruit being separately surrounded by one 
or two Strawberry leaves.” 
STYRAX JAPONICA. 
Several varieties of the officinal Storax, Styrax officinalis, have 
been known in gardens for many years, and are ornamental in no 
ordinary degree where they succeed, generally producing their white 
flowers freely against walls or in warm sheltered positions. The Snow¬ 
drop or Silver Bell Tree, Halesia tetraptera, is a near relative of these 
plants, and the species—Styrax japonica—represented in the woodcut 
(fig. 3), is as much entitled to the two former popular names as the 
Halesia. The pure white, bell-shaped, drooping flowers are very sug¬ 
gestive of Snowdrops both in size and substance, and have a charming 
appearance. Messrs. J. Yeitch & Sons, Chelsea, exhibited specimens of 
Styrax japonica at a recent meeting of the Royal Horticultural Society 
at South Kensington, when a first-class certificate was awarded for it. 
The tree thrives well at the Coombe Wood nurseries, where it has proved 
hardy near a wall, and has attained a height of 12 feet. It seems 
Fig. 3.—Styrax japonica. 
rather quicker and more free in growth than Styrax officinalis, which is 
extremely slow, even in favourable situations. 
SHADING AND AIR-GIVING. 
Having received several examples of scalded Grapes and 
scorched foliage of late, with requests to point out the cause of 
the injury and methods of prevention, we print the following 
article that was prepared by a gardener of great ex, erience, and 
who has treated the subject more fully than we could do in the 
form of replies to inquirers :— 
Few things are more bewildering to young beginners in exotic 
plant cultivation than shading; and to amateurs, whose chief 
physical engagement is connected with attention to their plants 
only on mornings and evenings, there are few matters more marked 
by perplexing and uncheering disappointments. Gardeners, in large 
places, and men of business, with their pet single house, have often 
alike to complain of want of thought in the case of their, no 
doubt, well-meaning coadjutors. Neglect of giving air early 
enough, and then a burst of it, after the house has been steamed 
up with sun heat and vapour ever so high, will produce results, less 
or more analogous to pouring among pot plants a blast of hot air 
from a furnace, just in proportion to the difference in temperature 
and moisture inside and outside of the house. One of the best 
known and most successful gardeners of the day, told me recently 
