July 14,1887. ] 
JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 
39 
against securing a sufficient supply of strong early runners for layering 
in pots for forcing. Our best supply of runners has been furnished by 
the young plants that were planted out last year. There is a difference 
of opinion as to the most serviceable plan of layering the runners—viz., 
whether it is best to do so in small pots, and when they are well rooted 
detach and shift into the fruiting pots, or layer at once into the pots 
the plants are to be fruited in. Both plans are good. In either case it 
is essential that the first runners, which give the best plantlets, should 
be selected, and that they be induced by attentive watering to fill the 
pots with roots, so that by after judicious attention they may develope 
into good plants and form well-developed crowns. If layered into the 
fruiting pots they need not be detached until they have become 
thoroughly established. Those layered in 3-inch pots should, so soon as 
they have filled the pots with roots, and before they become much 
matted around the sides, be detached and stood in a shady place for a 
few days preparatory to shifting them into the fruiting pots. These 
should be 5-inch for early forcing, and f> inches for succession, whilst 
7-inch may be employed for plants that may not be required for starting 
before February for affording late crops of larger fruit. For early 
forcing we find La Grosse Sucree and Vicomtesse Hericart de Thury 
capital setters, swellers, and finishers ; for succession, Sir Harry or 
Empress Eugenie, President, and Sir Joseph Paxton, good croppers, and 
of excellent quality ; whilst for later supplies, Sir Charles Napier, 
Marshal MacMahon, and Auguste Nicaise are superb. British Queen, 
Dr. Hogg, and Cockscomb are indispensable for late supplies. The 
fruiting pots must be clean, have a large crock in each, about three or 
four of lesser size, and over those some half-inch bones—-the drainage 
altogether about an inch or a little more. Turfy loam, rather strong, 
should form the staple of the compost, being laid up sufficiently long 
only to destroy the herbage, tearing or chopping up, adding a quart each 
of soot, dissolved bone, and wood ashes to every bushel of the loam, 
thoroughly incorporating. The compost should be moderately dry when 
used, for if wet it will shrink after potting, leaving the sides of the pot. 
Place the rougher parts of the compost at the bottom first, and ram it 
hard, potting firmly, and so that the base of the crown is about half an 
inch below the rim. Stand the pots on a hard base in an open sunny 
situation, with sufficient space between them to allow for the full 
exposure of the foliage. Water as required, and sprinkle the foliage a 
few days after potting. When the roots are working freely in the 
fresh soil, copious supplies of water will be needed, not allowing the 
foliage to flag. Remove all runners as they appear. 
Vines.— Mixed Mouses .—In forcing Vines early it is hardly possible 
to escape attacks of red spider ; more especially is this the case when the 
Grapes are kept for any length of time upon the Vines after being ripe. 
On account of this liability to red spider we do not advise large houses 
with a motley assemblage of Vines for forcing, but houses only of such 
size as will admit of a supply of Grapes for the establishment for a 
period of not more than six to eight w r eeks. This admits of the foliage 
being cleansed with the syringe or engine, but with a house having 
h rontignans, Sweetwater, and Hamburgh Grapes ripe in May, Muscats 
in June, and late sorts in July, the dry warm air essential to the ripen¬ 
ing of early kinds will cause red spider to increase upon the foliage of 
the Muscats and other late sorts before they are ripe. This is most 
disastrous to present and future crops of Grapes. Instead of having a 
mixed collection—that started in December to the new year will afford 
fruit from May to August—we would divide the house into two or three 
compartments, so that the respective kinds may have secured to them 
their proper treatment. In case of an attack of red spider paint the hot- 
water pipes with sulphur, heating them to over 1G0°. Be careful not to 
overdo this, or it will spoil the tender-skinned kinds, as Muscats, it often 
causing brown spots upon the skin of those and Frontignan Grapes ; 
sulphur, therefore, applied to heated surfaces must be done with great 
care. 
Scalding .—This is a source of no little anxiety, and is common to 
some kinds, notably Lady Downe’s, and in lesser degree Muscats. 
\ arious causes have been assigned to it, but the remedy is very decided 
—viz., to admit air rather freely, especially in the early part of the day 
and tln-ough the day, with a little at night, and a genial warmth in 
the pipes, so as to maintain a temperature of about 70° artificially. It 
is most prevalent towards the close of the stoning period, just before (a 
fortnight to three weeks) Grapes change colour for ripening. A slight 
shade is advantageous at this period and during the early stages of 
ripening, when the weather is very bright a double thickness of herring 
nets drawn over the roof lights being of great benefit in breaking the 
fierce rays of the sun from middle June to past the dog days, or mid- 
July. 
Muscats Ripening .—These require time and assistance from fire 
heat so as to insure a night temperature of 70° to 75°, 85° to 90° by day, 
with abundance of air. They require a rather dry warm air, for under 
no other conditions will they attain to that golden hue characteristic of 
their inapproachable rich vinous flavour. Muscats also of all Grapes 
require very plentiful supplies of water when swelling their fruit. They 
can hardly be overdone with water at the roots after the leaves are full 
sized until the Grapes are well advanced in ripenin/, the border having 
thorough drainage, therefore attend well to the watering of inside 
borders, and outside also in dry weather. Too much atmospheric mois¬ 
ture, however, is fatal to Muscats when ripening, causing them to spot ; 
therefore seek by a gentle warmth in the pipes and a little air con¬ 
stantly to prevent the deposition of moisture on the berries, surfacing 
the borders inside, after a final watering, with a few inches thickness of 
dry material. 
Shanliing .—This often causes great trouble through deterioration of 
crop. It is chiefly caused by suspended root-action at the critical period 
of the Grapes ripening, which may result from various errors. The first 
of these is deficiency of ventilation in the early stages of growth, com¬ 
bined with too much moisture, inducing long-jointed growth and thin 
foliage, or it may be the roots are deep in favourable rooting medium. 
To avoid shankjng we must have properly madfi borders and well 
managed Vines, being careful to fully expose the foliage it forms to light 
and air, allowing no more than can have those essentials, not seeking to 
encourage root-action by a thicket of growth which must sooner or later 
be removed in quantity, and give a check accelerating the failure of 
supplies when most needed, but contrariwise keeping as much foliage as 
can have due exposure, and no more, in a healthy state, so that the 
supplies of nutriment may be steadily maintained. Shanking is strictly 
cultural, and as such avoidable by judicious treatment. Vines prone to' 
shank should be given time, also avoid sudden fluctuations of temperature, 
particular attention being given to the ventilation, thereby securing a 
constant supply of nutriment, not only for the formation of starch, but 
that still further process of ripening, and by which it is converted into 
sugar. Regulate the young growths, adopting the extension rather than 
the restrictive system where there is room for it without crowding, 
keeping all gross laterals stopped so as to cause an equal flow of sap 
throughout the Vines, and this will do much to prevent the liability to 
shank. 
Young Vines .—Those of this season’s planting should, provided the 
light is not too much obstructed, be allowed to grow unchecked, it 
being presumed that they will be cut back to the bottom of the 
trellis, or to three or four eyes, at the winter dressing. Any super¬ 
numeraries intended for next year’s fruiting should be regularly 
stopped at a length of 7 or 8 feet, removing the laterals from the 
buds intended to give fruit next year, preserving the old leaves, and 
as the wood will require thorough ripening, a free circulation of air 
will be necessary, with fire heat if the weather be cold and wet. The 
border should be well mulched and duly watered right up to the neck 
or collar, with a view to obtain and encourage the growth of adven¬ 
titious roots, which are highly favourable to a strong break the following 
season. 
Vines in Pots .—Those intended for fruiting next season should by 
this time have completed their growth, especially those required for 
early forcing, which should have no more water than will prevent the 
foliage from becoming limp, and they should bs exposed to all the 
light and sun possible, so as to thoroughly ripen the wood and the buds. 
Keep the Vines free from insects, as it is very important that the leaves- 
perform their functions. After the wood becomes brown and hard the 
Vines may be stood in front of a wall with a south aspect, securing 
the canes to the wall to prevent the foliage being damaged by wind. 
PLANT HOUSES. 
Calanthes .—-Where large pseudo-bulbs were placed to start them into 
moderately small pots they may, without further delay, be placed into 
the size in which they are intended to flower. This should always be 
done before the first pots become unduly crowded with roots, or the 
new compost will not pro*e of much benefit to the plants. Large pots 
for these useful plants are not desirable, for they do not require a large 
mass of soil in which to root. Plenty of room should be left in the 
pots, so that liberal supplies of water can be given. When the pots in 
which they are growing become full of roots feed them with weak 
stimulants every time they need water. The plants should be arranged 
close to the glass, and a close moist atmosphere maintained about them. 
Be careful to shade the foliage from the sun, but admit every ray of 
light possible to solidify the growth as it is developed. Any plants in a 
backward state must be pushed forward, so that their growth can be 
thoroughly ripened before the short sunless days of autumn. The 
immature ripening of the pseudo-bulbs means weak growth another 
year. 
Cypripedium. insigne .—-Plants that have been assisted after flowering 
to make their growth, by introducing them for several years in suc¬ 
cession into vineries and other warm structures, will by this time have 
developed their growth. Plants that have been trained to flower early,, 
and now in this condition, need very careful treatment, or their 
flower spathes will soon be visible and the plants in full flower in 
October. They are much more useful from the end of November, and 
will then last in perfection in the conservatory during December and 
January, the two worst months in the year for flowers. Remove the 
plants into cold frames with a northern aspect, which will retard them 
wonderfully ; in fact, their growth under these conditions will appear 
stationary and no injury to the plants will result. Syringe the foliage,, 
and water the plants at their roots liberally while in this position. 
C. villosum, C. Sedeni, and other strong varieties will be growing freely, 
and if their pots or pans are full of roots they will be benefited by a 
little stimulant. It must be applied in a weak state and perfectly clear. 
That made from cow manure is excellent, but all the solid matter should 
be allowed to settle at the bottom of the tub or tank in which it is 
prepared, or failing this it should be strained by passing it through some 
close tiffany or canvas. 
Dendrohiunu .—Such species as D. nobile, D. Wardianum, and others 
that start early into growth will have fully lengthened their new pseudo¬ 
bulbs by this time. Remove all in this condition to the lightest end o,f 
the house, or to a slightly cooler structure, where they can be gradually 
