62 
JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 
[ July *1, 1887. 
Joses power in the afternoon begin to reduce the ventilation and raise 
the temperature to 85° or 90° about 4 P.M., with a good syringing and 
damping of surfaces, but it must be done with judgment, for when the 
water hangs for any length of time on the fruit during the last swelling 
it is liable to damage the skin, causing it to crack, or, if not that, it may 
give the fruit a musty flavour, therefore have the fruit dry before night¬ 
fall, and when the day is likely to be dull omit the morning syringing. 
Directly the fruit commences ripening cease syringing, but afford air 
moisture by damping available surfaces, especially the border whenever 
it becomes dry, ventilating rather freely, enough being left at night 
to insure a circulation of air. 
Late Houses .—The fruit in these has stood well, but it is later than 
usual, in fact there will be little need to retard the fruit by having 
recourse to very abundant night ventilation. In order to assist the 
swelling observe the conditions laid down in the preceding paragraph. 
If wanted to accelerate the ripening ventilate rather freely in the early 
part of the day and up to one o’clock, then keep the heat obtained by redu¬ 
cing the ventilation so as to secure 80° to 85°, and at about 4 P.M. close, 
syringing well, and no harm will come if the temperature rise to 90° or 
95°, ventilating a little about six o’clock so as to let the pent up moisture 
escape, and the temperature gradually cool down. Keep the shoots tied 
down as they advance, allowing no more than are necessary for next 
year’s fruiting, or for furnishing the trees, let all have space for develop¬ 
ment—the full exposure of the foliage to light and air. Keep laterals 
stopped to one leaf, ilso retain growth to attract the sap to the 
fruit. If there are any gross shoots which push laterals from the leaf 
buds cut them back to where the buds remain intact, or, if likely to 
disarrange the equilibrium of the trees—the equalisation of the sap—cut 
them out altogether. They only tend to promote gumming, imperfect 
setting, and certain casting of the fruit in stoning. Draw the leaves 
away from the fruit, raise it from the under side of the trellis, let it have 
as much light and air as possible, the sun acting directly on the apex. 
Peaches are no good unless coloured, the flavour corresponding thereto, 
other conditions being favourable. 
Unheated Hovses or Cases .—Ourtrees have the fruit stoning and taking 
the last swelling. The border is supplied with liquid from the tank 
receivingthe house drainings, it being run directly from the liquid manure 
cart on the border by means of hose and wood troughs. The foliage 
assumes a dark glossy hue, and the fruit swells kindly, it being disposed 
so that it has light and air from all points as far as practicable by draw¬ 
ing the leaves aside, and raising it by means of laths across and secured 
to the trellis to the front. Secure the growths to the trellis as they 
advance, being careful to allow space in the trees for the swelling of the 
fruit. Keep the growths thin, every shoot having space for full 
exposure to light and air. Syringe about 7 P.M. ; the house having a 
little ventilation constantly, increase the ventilation with the advancing 
temperature, contriving to have it full at 75°, or if it is wanted 
to accelerate the ripening keep through the day at 80° to 85°, but 
always with ventilation, and close sufficiently early to maintain 
that temperature, but not to raise it above 90°. Syringe again in 
the afternoon about 5 p.m. We have not a trace of red spider 
or insects of any kind, which we attribute to the use of the house 
sewage and syringing. Timely thinning increases the size of the fruits 
retained, therefore thin finally as soon as the stoning is completed. One 
Peach to every square foot is ample, also for the large Nectarines. The 
reason Nectarines usually are smaller than Peaches is because they are 
left much closer. In small fruit we have twice the weight of stone 
at a great sacrifice of flesh, and in appearance and quality there is no 
comparison of the two fruits. 
Figs .—Second Drops .—The fruit of trees started about the new year 
or before will have the second crop in an advanced state, and it must be 
thinned if not already done, reserving that at the base of the growths, 
which as a rule swells and finishes better than that at the points. This 
crop must not tax the energies of the trees too severely if they are ex¬ 
pected to afford early fruit next season. Attend regularly to training 
and stopping the shoots. Train thinly, and allow plenty of space in the 
ties for the shoots to swell, stopping side growths at about the fifth leaf, 
but do not seek these spur growths to an extent likely to cause crowding. 
Afford water copiously through a good surface mulching of short manure. 
We have tried many sorts, but find none surpasses horse droppings. They 
are light, let in air, and contain nutriment that is given out for the 
benefit of ths foliage and for washing into the soil. Water or liquid 
manure will be required according to the extent of the rooting area. 
The trees in narrow borders may need it every day, those of larger area 
corresponding thereto. They can hardly have too much water in hot 
weather, always provided the border is formed of sound material and 
the roots are active so as to lay hold of it, and there is drainage to carry 
off superfluity beyond the soil’s retentive power. Syringe twice a day 
forcibly to dislodge red spider, but with proper feeding and attention 
there will be little need for insecticides, only nothing seems to prevent 
6cale, therefore remove it with a brush and a soapy solution. Figs like 
abundance of air, they also delight in heat and light. Admit a little 
air constantly, increase it early, close early with plenty of moisture, and 
the fruit will swell to a good size, then a circulation of air constantly 
will enable the cultivator to produce Figs in perfection. Considering 
that Figs are so wholesome and nutritious it is remarkable they are not 
more generally grown. 
Fig Trees in Pots for Early Forcing .—Syringe at least once a day, in 
hot weather twice, affording liquid manure at the roots and pinching to 
induce a neat habit in young plants with fruitfulness. Stopping must 
be regulated by the vigour of the plants and varieties. Vigorous growers 
will need to be more closely pinched than those of moderate growth. 
It is important that the trees have plenty of light, are not crowded, 
and are well ventilated, to solidify the growth as it is made. 
PLANT HOUSES. 
Mignonette. —The whole stock intended to be trained on standard 
and pyramidal trellises should be placed in their largest pots. At the 
same time each plant should be given the trellis upon which it is to be 
trained. In the case of pyramids secure the shoots at the base, in order 
to furnish it thoroughly, for the uppermost portion of the trellis can be 
readily filled. If the plants have been purposely prepared according to 
previous directions, they will have plenty of shoots to reach the trellis 
in various directions, not only at the base, but more than half way up. 
Those intended for standards should have the branches evenly disposed 
over the trellis, training them towards the outer edge until they reach 
that position. Grow the plants under glass where they can be given 
light shade from the burning rays of the sun, plenty of air, and a moist 
bottom for the pots to stand upon. Hot dry atmospheric conditions 
must be avoided, or the shoots assume a woody appearance and fail to 
grow strongly. To insure well-furnished plants that will produce large 
spikes of bloom, they must be kept growing luxuriantly, but not forced 
out weakly by shading. Plenty of moisture should be maintained about 
the plants by frequently damping the floor and stage. The plants may 
with advantage have their foliage syringed twice daily. Water carefully 
after potting until the roots are working freely, but never allow the plants 
to suffer by an insufficient supply. A number of 5-inch pots may now be 
filled with three parts fibry loam to one of leaf mould, manure, and 
sand. Sow the seed evenly on the surface and cover it lightly. Give a 
good watering, and stand the pots in a cold frame and shaded from the 
sun until germination has taken place. They should then be gradually 
exposed until they gain strength, and are then grown in a light position 
outside, where they can be partially shaded from strong sunshine. 
Rhodanthes .—Those grown outside in pots must be freely watered 
and liberally syringed, for if neglected in these respects they are liable 
to be attacked at this season by red spider, which quickly plays sad 
havoc with their foliage, and spoils them for decorative purposes. 
Another supply of plants may be raised by sowing seed in a few 
5-inch pots filled with rich soil. Press the soil moderately firm to insure 
a dwarf compact growth, and only just cover the seed. Place the pots 
in a cold frame until the seed 1 a; germinated, then stand or plunge 
them outside. Plants raised now will prove invaluable for the con¬ 
servatory after the middle of October. 
Heliotropes .—Plants that have been grown to form standards or 
pyramids may now be plunged outside if they have been thoroughly 
hardened. All flowers must be removed and the shoots pinched freely, 
so that the heads, in the case of standards, are compact and well 
furnished instead of being straggling and loose, which is the result of 
negligence. The framework of pyramids must also be well furnished 
with sturdy growths, so that a mass of flowers may be expected. If 
covered with a few long shoots the plants cannot produce half the 
flowers, or produce the same beautiful effect as those covered with shoots 
about 2 inches in length when housed in autumn. Dwarf bushy plants 
in 2 and 3-inch pots with three or four shoots may now be placed in 
5-inch pots and plunged outside. Pinch any shoots that take the lead, 
so that these plants will be dwarf, bushy, and well ripened when 
they are housed in September. Plants prepared on this principle will 
flower profusely during November and the following month if they are 
kept in a temperature of 55° to 60°. 
Chrysanthemums .—A number should now be rooted in 3 and 5-inch 
pots, insert all the large-flowering kinds singly in the former, and free- 
flowering Pompon kinds in the latter ; these should be inserted five or 
six in each pot. Place the pots in a cold frame and shade them from the 
sun until the cuttings are rooted, and then grow the latter in a sunny 
position outside. 
Stocks .—Sow seed in boxes of Ten Weeks and Intermediate Stocks 
for flowering in pots inside. Princess Alice is an early flowering white 
variety, invalable for this purpose. Sow the seed in boxes, and place 
them in a cold frame until germination has taken place, when the boxes 
can be stood outside until the plants are large enough for placing singly 
in 2-inch pots, to be finally transferred into 5-inch pots when the small 
ones are full of roots. The plants are better outside than in cold frames 
after the seed has germinated until they are housed in autumn. 
Hydrangeas .—The prevailing idea that the flower buds should be 
formed in the shoots of the«e before they are rooted in small pots for 
flowering another year is a great mistake. Cuttings rooted after the 
flower buds are set never produce such fine heads of bloom as those 
rooted earlier in the season before flower buds are visible. Good sturdy 
cuttings skould be rooted now from plants growing outside fully exposed 
to the sun. The cuttings should be as short as possible, with a pair of 
large leaves left at the base. Fill 2 or 3-inch pots firmly with sandy 
loam and one-seventh of decayed manure. Place a little sand in the 
centre for the base of the cuttings to rest upon. Give a good watering, 
and stand the pots in handlights, shaded from the sun, in the Cucumber 
or Melon house, where they will root quickly. Directly they are rooted 
gradually expose them, and then remove to a cold frame and harden 
them. They should then be grown cool and fully exposed to the sun. 
The small pots soon become crowded with roots, and the growth is much 
more certain to be brought to a standstill, thoroughly ripened, and the 
formation of flower buds will take place sooner than when growing 
plants outside with unlimited root room. Tips is a certain method of 
preparing plants for producing large heads in 5 and 6-inch pots next 
season than attempting to strike them after buds are formed. They 
