August 4, 1887. ] 
JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 
101 
so as to run the temperature up to 90° or 95°, and when the sun’s power 
is declining a little air may be admitted at the top so as to allow the 
pent-up moisture to escape, the temperature gradually cooling down. 
Water or liquid manure, according to circumstances, will be required 
once a week or oftener, in order to keep the soil thoroughly moist. 
When the fruit begins to ripen lessen the supply of water and discon¬ 
tinue syringing, securing a circulation of air constantly, and freely 
ventilate when favourable, but sun heat should be husbanded, and will 
do no harm if the atmosphere is not confined, a little ventilation being 
given so as to allow of the moisture escaping instead of condensing on the 
fruit and causing it to crack. 
Pines.— Clean houses thoroughly as they become vacant before being 
again occupied with plants. Bottom heat being necessary, the first 
thing to be seen to is the bed. If bottom heat be afforded by hot-water 
pipes, the material forming the bed, whether of tan or leaves, should be 
removed at least once a year, or insects, particularly woodlice, rapidly 
increase ; the old material also harbours other predatory vermin. All 
brickwork must be scalded and brushed with hot lime, the wood and 
iron work with soap and water thoroughly cleansed, using a brush, 
keeping the soapy water as much as possible from the glass, which 
should be cleaned inside and outside with water only. If necessary the 
wood and iron work may be painted, the roof being made as watertight 
as practicable. Beds that are chambered— i.e., the hot-water pipes 
covered with slate or other material, are very much in advance of those 
surrounded or passing through beds of rubble. Those composed of the 
latter should be turned over, and any dirt or small parts removed to 
allow the heat given off by the pipes to penetrate through the whole 
uniformly to the bed. Fresh tan should be provided in other cases. If 
wet turn it occasionally on fine sunny days. With hot-water pipes 
beneath about 3 feet depth of tan this is ample, more will be needed 
where such aid is not obtained. 
Suckers that were started in June will soon fill their pots with roots, 
and must be shifted into larger pots before the roots become closely 
matted together. Queens should have 9 and 10-inch pots, and those of 
stronger growth 11-inch pots. Water immediately after potting, and 
plunge in a bed having a temperature of 90° to 95°. There is no 
greater mistake in growing Pines than crowding young plants. The 
plants become drawn and weakly instead of having a sturdy base, a 
condition that should always be aimed at. Attend to the bottom heat 
of beds that have been recently disturbed or upset by the removal or 
replacing of plants, not allowing the heat to exceed 95° at the base of 
the pots without immediately raising them, as too much bottom heat 
will disastrously affect plants with fruit or those having the pots filled 
with roots. Examine the plants for watering about twice a week, and 
maintain a moist, genial, well ventilated atmosphere. The climatic 
influences are now so favourable, that Pine plants grow luxuriantly, 
therefore discontinue any shading such as mav have been employed for 
an hour or two at mid-day, when the sun was powerful through the 
months of May, June, and July, the plants after this having the benefit 
of every ray of light, admitting air plentifully when the temperature 
ranges from 85° to 95°, affording to fruiting plants a night temperature 
of 70° to 75°, and succession 65° to 70° at night. Reserve, if possible, 
another batch of suckers on the stocks for starting at the commencement 
of September. 
Chekby House. —The buds are now plump. The leaves, too, will 
not be capable of much further effort in elaborating sap and storing it 
up in the buds and adjacent wood, therefore any undue excitement will 
cause the trees to start into growth, which must be guarded against by 
exposing the trees to the influence of the atmosphere so far as the house 
will admit, which is the best means of arresting premature growth, to 
which the Cherry is liable when forced year after year successively. 
The border must not be allowed to become parchingly drv, but must 
have a copious supply of water, and if the trees are weak afford liquid 
manure. To subdue red spider give an occasional washing with the 
syringe or garden engine. Black aphides can scarcely keep long off 
Cherry trees, but the leaves and wood, from their hard texture, are not 
inviting to them, yet if they appear promptly use tobacco water. Trees 
in pots must be regularly watered and syringed to maintain the foliage 
in a healthy condition as long as possible. 
PLAINT HOUSES. 
Tree Carnations .—All the earliest rooted Carnations are growing 
rapidly and fast filling their pots with roots. They must have weak 
stimulants every time they need water, clear soot water, or that made 
from cow manure being eood for them ; or, better still, artificial manure 
applied to the surface of the soil at intervals of two or three weeks. If 
neglected in this respect growth comes to a standstill, and flower spikes 
appear before they are wanted. Plants that are allowed to become root- 
bound early in the season are almost certain to come into flower in early 
autumn long before they are wanted. We have found it a good plan to 
place into larger pots any that are likely to become root-bound too 
early. Every care is needed afterwards for a time in watering until the 
roots are working freely amongst the fresh soil. Later plants may be 
placed into their largest size, those G inches in diameter being suitable. 
Such varieties as Gloire de Nancy, Souvenir de la Malmaison,and others 
that are intended for flowering early indoors in 6-inch pots next season 
should be rooted at once, either by layering or by taking off the cuttings 
and inserting them singly in small pots, placing them under handlights 
in a cool shady position. The former is the more certain method, and 
the one we generally adopt, except the plants from which the cuttings 
are to be obtained are in pots ; then they are rooted under handlights. 
Plants of these varieties that flowered in 6-inch pots and have been 
well cared for since are now in 8-inch pots, and may be transferred into 
others 2 inches larger. In this size they will make grand plants and! 
produce six to eight flower stems each, that will prove either useful for 
cutting or be objects of beauty in the conservatory. If given green¬ 
house treatment during the winter they will commence producing their 
flower stems early, and will be in full flower towards the end of 
April and throughout the following month without unduly forcing 
them. 
French and Fancy Pelargoniums .—Young plants raised from cuttings 
that were pinched and hardened to cool frame treatment directly they 
were rooted may now be placed in 5-inch pots. The soil, which should 
consist of good loam and one-seventh of manure, should be pressed 
firmly into the pots to insure a firm sturdy growth. These plants may 
be kept close for ten days or a fortnight, and afterwards grown perfectly 
cool in frames with the lights off. Pinch the shoots when they have 
made two or three leaves to insure their remaining dwarf. The shoots 
should be pinched when they need it until the last week in August or 
the first week of the following month, but not afterwards. By this 
treatment they will have broken into growth again by the time they are 
in their winter quarters. Old plants that were pruned back early and 
started again into growth in a frame may now have the old soil 
shaken from their roots and the plants repotted in fresh soil, 
placing them in much smaller pots, repotting them as growth extends. 
These must be kept close for a time until they are rooting freely 
in the new soil, when they may be hardened and grown under airy 
treatment. Prune plants that have been well ripened, and start them 
in a frame until they break into growth. Those that are now going out 
of flower must be stood for two or three weeks in a sunny position to 
ripen them before they are pruned back. Harden all young plants 
raised from cuttings, and then grow them in a cool house, but fully 
exposed to the sun. Good cuttings may still be rooted, and for this 
purpose it is better to top the earliest plants than to insert old flower 
stems. 
Zonal Pelargoniums .—Those for autumn and winter flowering need 
liberal supplies of water at their roots, and liquid manure two or three 
times weekly, or every time water is needed, according to the condition 
of their roots. The pots in every case should be well crammed, the 
wood short-jointed and firm. Dacaying leaves and flowers as they 
appear should be removed. Plants that have grown tall may be cut 
close back, and a good batch of cuttings inserted for early spring 
flowering. Double varieties should also be inserted for the same 
purpose, and for yielding a good supply of trasses for cuttings during 
next May, June, and July, or longer if needed. Insert them singly into. 
3-inch pots, in which they will pass the winter safely. Cuttings at this 
season root well either outside or in a cold frame. 
SileneK —In order to have the plants of good size before the winter 
the seed should be sown at once. They are very effective spring-flower¬ 
ing plants. 
THE FLOWER GARDEN AND PLEASURE GROUND. 
Layering Carnations .—Layering is the surest method of securing 
abundance of strong young plants for flowering next season. The 
plants to be operated on should be cleared of all old flowers, and after 
the roughest of the surface soil has been removed a good soaking of 
water may be given. Next surround them with a good depth of loamy 
compost with which plenty of road grit or sharp sand has been added. 
Select the best placed shoots, and not far from the centre cut them half 
through just under a joint, next cut upwards through the joint, and then 
peg them down firmly in the soil. If this is properly done, and a little 
water given occasionally in dry weather, roots soon form on the 
“ tongued ” joints, and in due course d well rooted plant can 
be detached and transplanted or potted up without any check being 
given. This important work should be done as early in August as 
possible. 
Annuals fur Spring Flowering .—The second or third week in August 
is a good time for sowing the seeds of Saponaria calabrica, both red and 
white ; and Gypsophila elegans, Alyssum maritimum and Candytufts 
may be sown at the same time. At the end of the month may be sown 
the Nemophilas, Virginian Stocks, Lasthenia californica, Limnanthes 
Douglassi, Collinsia bicolor, grandiflora and verna, and Erysimum Peroff- 
skianum. The ground for them should be light and good, and if at all 
dry be moistened prior to sowing the seeds. We prefer to sow broadcast 
and thinly, covering the seeds with a little fresh soil. Thus treated the 
seed germinates quickly, and the seedlings grow sturdily, little or no 
thinning out being needed. In the autumn all will transplant readily 
and will be much more hardy than those drawn up in crowded rows. 
The Silenes ought to have been sown in July, and the Forget-me- 
nots, Wallflowers, Sweet Williams, Campanulas, Brompton Stocks, and 
other biennials in May, and the seedlings pricked out :at the present 
time. 
Propagating Tuberous Begonias .—Where plenty of short growths 
can be obtained either from pot plants or large plants in the open 
ground these may he dibbled out in fine sandy soil and left to take care 
of themselves. A sunny spot is necessary, and the cuttings are best 
pulled off, and not trimmed in any way. They quickly strike root and 
form little tubers for starting next spring. 
