126 
JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 
[ AugnBt It, 1S8T. 
favourable circumstances, triple buds not being nearly so frequent ; 
hence in pruning it is not desirable to cut back next year s bearing 
wood unless they are of great length. Very little pruning will be 
needed provided disbudding has been attended to, no more wood being 
trained in than is required to replace the bearing shoots of the current 
year and to renew worn out growths, as well as provide for the proper 
extension of the trees. Trees that have long been subjected to early 
forcing are seldom vigorous, but not infrequently become so enfeebled 
as to need the removal of the weak growths, which, though plentifully 
furnished with fruit buds, are undesirable from their affording much 
smaller fruit than is yielded b r the moderately vigorous and well- 
ripened growths. Some trees, however, make too vigorous or long- 
jointed wood, pushing laterals difficult to restrain, if they do not 
frustrate the formation of fruit buds and interfere with an equal distri¬ 
bution of the sap. Any trees which grow too vigorously must be lifted, 
whilst those which are showing symptoms of weakness may have the 
old soil carefully removed from amongst the roots, supplying fresh turfy 
loam with about a twentieth part of crushed bones and wood ashes 
mixed. Give a good watering both to the lifted trees and to those that 
have had the soil renewed about the roots. These operations require to 
be performed as soon as the leaves are mature and before they fall from 
the trees. 
Succession Houses .—Do not neglect to cut away the shoots that have 
borne fruit unless required for extension, and all the shoots where the 
growths are too crowded should be thinned. This will allow the foliage 
to be more readily cleansed by syringing, repeating as necessary, it 
being important that the foliage be kept clean and healthy as long as 
possible. With the freer access of light and air the buds will form per¬ 
fectly, attention being given to a due supply of water to the roots. 
Where the fruit is ripening a free circulation of air will enhance the 
quality considerably, sufficient water only being given at the roots to 
prevent the foliage becoming limp, and secure air moisture by an 
occasional damping for the benefit of the foliage, also fruit, which in an 
arid atmosphere is liable to become mealy, whilst it ripens prematurely 
if the trees suffer for want of a proper supply of moisture in the soil. 
Ants in some cases are apt to be troublesome, eating into the choicest 
and best fruits. We sink some saucers in the ground level with their 
edges, and as near the stems as practicable, pouring syrup or treacle 
into each saucer. The active creatures leave the fruit for the sweetness. 
Late Houses .—Attend to thinning and regulating the summer growths, 
and if they are laid in thinner jthan is customary with trees in earlier 
houses the wood will have a better chance to ripen and the foliage more 
certain to assimilate more food; storing it up in the buds and wood for 
the support of the blossoms and embryo fr.iit in the coming season. 
Gross growths tend to the impoverishment of the weaker, appropriate an 
undue amount of the sap, preventing an equal distribution of the ali- 
•ment, and favour nothing but unfruitfulness and gumming. They must 
be stopped, or better removed altogether. Endeavour to secure an even 
balance of moderately strong short-jointed wood, and to insure its ripen¬ 
ing ventilate freely in the early part of the day, allowing a good heat 
from sun through the day, closing in good time so as to run up to 85° or 
more, for sun heat after evaporation has been going on for some time 
will not do any harm if only care be taken to admit a little air before 
nightfall to allow the pent-up heat and concomitant moisture to escape, 
and the gradual cooling down of the atmosphere, thereby securing rest. 
The night and early day ventilation tends to the solidification of the 
•growth and its ripening. Keep the trees free from red spider by forcible 
eyringings until the fruit gives indications of ripening. The borders 
must be well supplied with water or liquid manure, and be well mulched 
with short manure. 
Vines. —Early Houses .—The Vines have the wood ripe, and the 
foliage or some of it is falling, but there must not be any attempt at 
removing it, nor to cut the laterals close in, as that would probably 
cause the principal buds to start; therefore remove the laterals by 
degrees, and shorten some of the long shoots, preserving, however, some 
growth, especially when the principal leaves are down, above the buds 
to which the Vines are to be pruned, the final pruning being deferred 
until the early part of next month. The old surface soil should be re¬ 
moved and forked from amongst the roots, taking the opportunity of 
raising any that are deep and laying them in fresh material nearer the 
surface. Good calcareous loam is the most suitable, with a twentieth of 
crushed bones and wood ashes. If the soil be light add a six of clayey 
marl, if heavy a sixth of old mortar rubbish. Charcoal is an excellent 
addition to the extent of a tenth. Give a moderate watering, and the 
roots will push (especially adventitious ones from near the collar) into 
the new soil at once, and be in capital condition for a start when the 
time comes round. When lifting or renovating the border is deferred 
until the leaves are all down the start is not nearly so satisfactory. 
Mid-eason Houses .—The Vines have done well considering the pro* 
lonjed drought, revelling in the light and heat, and red spider has not 
been nearly so troublesome as might have been expected. The Grapes 
have acquired bloom and colour rapidly, and though not quite so large 
in berry it is amply compensated for by the superb finish. Copious 
supplies of water through a good surface mulching, and occasional sup¬ 
plies of liquid of a sustaining rather than stimulating kind, have 
■contributed to the satisfactory result. Madresfield Court is taking its 
place—the foremost of midseason Grapes. Fire heat has not been 
necessary, as the requisite ventilation by night as well as by day could 
be secured to insure a circulation of air. The nights being rather cold 
have assisted Vines carrying heavy crops to perfect them through the 
rest accorded. 
Late Houses .—Continue to afford full supplies of heat through a 
good surface mulching, and until the Grapes are well advanced in colour, 
for most late Grapes take a long time to perfect thoroughly ; and some, 
particularly Mrs. Pince, even after appearing finished, are not so up to 
the shank, which is often a consequence of too early stopping the 
supplies of food, and in some cases the consequence of too short 
duration of the feeding are manifest in the Grapes shrinking. All late 
Grapes require time ; they ought now to be colouring or advanced 
therein, and then they will with a circulation of warm rather dry air 
constantly attain a fulness of berry and a perfection of finish ; indeed, 
poverty of finish is the chief cause of shrivelled Muscats, and others 
shrinking after they have hung some time. Afford a temperature 
of 70° to 75° by day artificially, 80° to 90° with sun, and close sufficiently 
early to increase to 90° or 95°. When the sun is losing power put on 
enough top and bottom air to insure a circulation of air, allow the 
temperature to gradually cool, which rests the Vines, and increase the 
ventilation early with the advancing temperature. The pipes should, 
if necessary, have a little warmth in them to prevent the night tempe¬ 
rature falling below 63° at night. 
PLANT HOUSES. 
Adiantum enneatum .—Where these are grown expressly for 
cutting they must not be in a close atmosphere, or they will wither 
ydirectly they have been severed from the plants or exposed to more air 
conditions. A deep green colour of the fronds indicates too much shade 
and heat, and will not last. The young fronds on plants well prepared 
should have a reddish hue, and those fully developed a light green 
appearance. This is the result of light airy treatment. Plants that 
have been grown soft may be prepared to stand well if they are care¬ 
fully and gradually exposed to light and more air, but they are never so 
good as those grown under these conditions from the first. The develop¬ 
ment of the fronds is slower and the plants are longer before they attain 
a large size, but the main object is attained, and the fronds are fit for 
use directly they are well developed. In the end it is economy to 
prepare the plants well for this purpose, for less than half will give 
greater satisfaction and less trouble than double the number grown 
under close treatment. Young plants raised from spores in spring and 
now in 3-inch pots may be placed into 5-inch pots, in which they will 
develope a good number of fronds before winter, and make large plants 
another year. 
Adiantum, Pacotti,— This useful variety is well worth growing for 
cutting, in addition to A. cuneatum ; although it is too heavy for many 
purposes, it is invaluable for buttonholes. In spite of this, however, it 
will never supplant the old variety alluded to, for it will not yield the 
same quantity of fronds. The fronds are stiff, and need no wiring. To 
do it well it should be grown slightly warmer than A. cuneatum, and 
every care must be taken that water does not fall upon the fronds, for 
they are so thick that they are liable to damp. During hot weather, 
when plenty of air can be given, the fronds dry quickly, and less harm 
is done. 
Davallias .—For many purposes the fronds of these Ferns are valu¬ 
able, because they last fresh for a long time. For cutting to travel long 
distances and last well after they reach their journev’s end, no other 
Ferns are equal to them. These, like Adiantums, should not be grown 
too warm. The majority of kinds suitable for this purpose will do well 
in the greenhouse during the summer months, but require a temperature 
of 50° during the winter. D. bullata, D. dissecta, and some others are 
not injured in the least by remaining in a cool house the whole of the 
winter. Although many do well in the greenhouse they will make 
more rapid progress under intermediate conditions until the plants 
attain a fair size, or for starting them into growth in spring. 
Eteris serrulata .—This is a handsome and useful Fern for decora¬ 
tion in small pots, and lasts well in rooms and othei positions during the 
winter. A good number of seedlings now in pans and boxes should be 
placed singly into 2 and 3-inch pots according to the size most suitable. 
For grouping purposes we find them serviceable in various sizes from 
2 to 5-inch pots ; for the latter size two or three seedlings grown together 
are better than single plants, because they are thicker and better fur¬ 
nished at the base. This will grow in almost any soil and position, 
provided it is liberally supplied with water. We have usually started 
them in gentle heat, and when sufficiently developed removed them to 
cool quarters. 
HE) BEE-KEEPER 
NOTES ON BEES. 
CROWDING BEES DURING WINTER. 
There are many bee-keepers who act like the small 
bee-keeper mentioned by “ R. C., Kent," and many things 
in bee-keeping are recommended to be done that are 
positively injurious to bees, hindering them in their 
labours and lessening the profit of the bee-keeper. Re¬ 
moving frames of comb on the approach of winter or 
