150 
JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 
[ August 18, 1887. 
taken of b, because we do not desire more than half of 
the bees to find their way back to the stock to which they 
really belong. These stocks and the swarms thus taken 
will in a few days be ready for supering. The swarm will 
be a very strong one, and the stocks will soon recover their 
strength through the brood which will be hatching out in 
large quantities every day and hour. 
The winter preparation of stocks managed upon this 
system should be identical with that laid down in a 
former article for the management of stocks from which it 
is intended to take a full swarm. Those who will give 
this plan a trial will find it successful when the other 
systems fail; those who have not had much experience in 
taking swarms artificially, and especially those who have 
tried to take them and failed, should try this method, 
which is the most simple and least dangerous system 
extant for taking swarms without loss. In many districts, 
it is true, it would be most injudicious not to take a full 
swarm; in these localities it would be sheer folly to take 
any increase at all, but under certain circumstances the 
modified increase system may, as I pointed out a few 
weeks ago and now maintain, be carried to a most suc¬ 
cessful issue, and enable many bee-keepers to manage 
their bees more profitably, and in not a few instances 
more pleasantly than heretofore they have been able to 
do. Not the least advantage attending this plan is that 
in the second week in May, if stocks which were intended 
to yield a full swarm are not strong enough, the modified 
method may be adopted, and the adoption of the non¬ 
swarming system which would have otherwise been forced 
upon the bee-keeper is avoided. 
Each one who has followed me in this long discussion 
will now be able to grasp the main principles of each 
method, and if the salient points are remembered no diffi¬ 
culty will be experienced in following the directions which 
shall be given in future papers for carrying any or all of 
these three systems to a successful issue.— Felix. 
[The above should have been inserted before No. 16 > 
but was by accident omitted.] 
TRADE CATALOGUES RECEIVED. 
James Veitch & Sons, King’s Road, Chelsea.— Catalogue of Hyacinths 
and other Bulbs, 1887 {illustrated). 
J. Carter & Co., 237 and 238, H’gh Holborn, —List of choice picked 
Bulbs, 1887. 
T. Laxton, Bedford.—List of New Strawberries. 
Wm. Paul & Son, Waltham Cross, Herts . — Cata'ogue of Bulbs and 
IVinter Flowers. 
B. S. Williams, Upper Holloway.— Catalogue of Bulbs, Fruit Trees, 
Boses, t6c, 
James Cocker & Sons, Aberdeen. —Catalogue of Hyacinths and other 
Bulbs. 
* 3 ° All correspondence should be directed either to “ The 
Editor” or to “ The Publisher.” Letters addressed to Dr. 
° r members of the staff often remain unopened un¬ 
avoidably. We request that no one will write privately 
to any of our correspondents, as doing so subjects them to 
unjustifiable trouble and expense. 
Correspondents should not mix up on the same sheet questions 
relating to Gardening and those on Bee subjects, and should 
never send more than two or three questions at once. Al l 
articles intended for insertion should be written on one side of 
the paper only. We cannot reply to questions through the 
post, and we do not undertake to return rejected communica¬ 
tions. 
LATE INQUIRIES.—It is necessary to again remind correspondents that 
letters arriving on WEDNESDAY MORNING cannot be answered 
in the “ next issue,” which is then far advanced for press. 
Shrivelled Nectarines {T. A. I 7 .).—The fruits reach us just as we are 
going to press, and cannot be attended to this week. 
Walking Stick (G. T .).—We have had many things sent to us to be 
named from time to time, but the line seems hitherto to have been drawn 
at walking sticks. We think the one you have sent was made from an 
Oak sapling cut when green, hence the shrinkage of the bark and the 
lightness. 
Insects (H. P.).—We are not able to give the name of the insect that 
causes “blindness" in Broccoli and other plants. If any of our readers 
can do so we will readily publish the information. The name of the Pear 
tree blister moth is Tinea Clerckella, which was referred to, and preventive 
measures suggested, on page 128 last week. 
Select Daffodils for Pots (J. IF.).—You do not say whether you only 
require the dwarf varieties, so we have named a few of the large-growing 
sorts as wed. One of the best for pots is the Hoop Petticoat Narcissus, 
Corbularia (Bulbocodium), which has an excellent appearance when several 
bulbs are placed together in a GO or 48-size pot. Tee following are also 
distinct and handsome varieties : Horsefieldi, cernuus, pallidus prsecox, 
ineomparabilis Sir Watkin, Macleai, odorus, Burbidgei, poeticus ornatus, 
poeticus recurvus, poeticus plenus, and the Jonquil. 
Use of Cold Frame (A Beginner). —As you do not appear to wish to 
devote the frame in winter to protecting young Cauliflowers or Lettuce 
plants, nor the whole of it to Calceolaria cuttings, you can insert cuttings 
of Pentstemons in it, also Gazanias and Violas, all of which are of 
service in the flower garden. The frame will also be suitable for wintering 
Carnations in small pots, Auriculas, and Hollyhocks ; or if you prefer, you 
may insert cuttings of Roses in it. Early next April it can be taken off, 
the partially hardy plants beiDg protected with boards placed round, and 
mats across, supported with strips of wood, and the frame placed on a 
mild hotbed for raising various kinds of half-hardy annuals for summer, 
subsequently planting Cucumbers. It is useless sowing seed of any kind 
in the autumn or wiuter in the frame. A great deal depends on individual 
aptitude in turning frames to the best account, due regard being paid to 
the particular requirements in each case, these varying considerably. 
Plants for Hall ( Idem ).—Some of the hardier Palms are very suitable, 
and with good management the following may be kept healthy for a con¬ 
siderable time : Areca sapida, A. lutescens, Cocos Weddelliana, Geonoma 
gracilis, Kentia Belmoreana, Phcenix rupicola, Rhapis flabelbformis, and 
Seaforthia elegans. Ficus elastica answers very well for such positions, 
and Aspidistras are excellent for dry corridors. Of Ferns the strong¬ 
growing Pterises longifolia, tremula, and umbrosa might be tried, also the 
green Dracaenas congeeta and australis, with the handsome Conifer 
Thujopsis do’abrata, which is very elegant, and with good attention con¬ 
tinues healthy for years in light corridors. 
Lifting Vines ( W. B.). —As the inside border is so narrow we presume 
the roots have access to a border ou'side, or at least have found their way 
out of the confined space to which you refer. If that is so the work will be 
easy, as you may clear out the whole of the narrow border, and after pro¬ 
viding ample drainage and free exit for water pla e the roots in fresh 
soil, taking care that they are kept moist while the work is in progress. 
Turfy loam dug from a pasture inclining to be strong rather than light 
should form the staple, adding to twenty barrowfnls two or three each of 
lime rubbish and wood ashes or crushed charcoal, a peck of soot, and half 
a bushel of crushed bones, if you can get them. Mix well, and take care 
that the compost is pleasantly moist for working, and press it down 
rather firmly, but it must not be very wet. Spread the roots out straight, 
cutting off all jagged ends and bruis ;d portions, and cover 4 inches deep 
with soil; then mulch with the same thickness of half-decayed manure for 
preventing the escape of moisture. The work may be done as soon as 
the fruit is cut, and if the leaves show signs of flagging syringe and shade 
as may be required for keeping them fresh. New roots will then form 
before winter, and after they have taken possession of the soil the 
border may be renewed next year. Your plants are referred to outside 
below. 
Melon Roots Clubbed (M. P .).—Your plants are attacked with the 
same disease that ruins so many Cueumb. r plants, and is the worst 
example as affecting Melons we have seen. We have nothing to add to 
the reply we gave to another correspondent a few weeks ago, as follows : 
This disease is due to, in most cases, an excess of organic matter in the 
soil, especially vegetable or animal matter, generating humus, with its 
attendant nematoid germs. The corrective for this is to char the soil 
before use so as to destroy the nematoid germs, and also reduce the excess 
of organic matter ovd- the inorganic, by which a more healthful plant is 
secured, safeguarding against disease ; or, in the case of soil not full of 
vegetable matter or fibre, therefore not likely to contain the germ of 
disease, manures of a kind calculated to strengthen the plant in proportion 
to its vigour should be employed, as superphosphate (dissolved bones’, soot, 
and wood ashes, so that lime, potash, &c., will be available for building up 
the plant's structure, which, with due regard to other cultural require¬ 
ments, are the only preventive measures that avail, remedial oneB being 
of questionable efficacy through the disease being internal, and to reach it 
requires measures destructive of the plants. The only advice we can give 
is to root out the plants and soil, making a fresh start with healthy plants, 
fresh and sweet soil, observing cleanly culture. 
The Chrysanthemum Bug ( Wordsworth ).—The insects you sent have 
been examined by our entomologist, who reports thereon as follow's :—“ In 
reference to the insects sent and reported to occur upon the Chrysanthe¬ 
mum, I have to state that they are quite distinct, but both belong to the 
Hemipterous order—that is to say in common phrase, they are “ bugs." 
I am sorry to say that our present knowledge of this order is a disgrace 
to us entomologists; it has been neglected as a whole, partly, perhaps, 
because, owing to the insects living by suction, they are not easy' to rear. 
Hence I can only pronounco the larger one doubtfully to be an example of the 
