192 
JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 
[ September 1, 1887. 
ridges be as before stated. The early part of April, or when the plants 
have grown 2 or 3 inches, is the proper time to plant. Lift the whole 
carefully, and keep the roots as much as practicable from the drying 
influences of the atmosphere. Stretch a line at the required distance, or 
along the centre of each ridge, and make a sloping cut on both sides the 
lines at an angle of about 45° where the plants are required, and ex¬ 
tended enough so as to admit of the roots being placed straight in the 
sloping cut, and even on both sides. The plants are put astride the 
ridge at the exact distance apart, the sharp angle being knocked off so 
as to form a seat, and to insure having all the crowns level with the 
surface. Cover with fine soil, preferably leaf soil, just a little over the 
roots, or with the finest of the soil taken out, and if in clay soil cover 
with sand an inch thick and extending over the crown, pressing gently 
down with the hands. Return the soil to its form as when in the 
ridge, covering the crowns about 2 inches deep. If the soil be moist do 
not give water, but if the weather be dry apply water before covering 
up. Unless the weather is unusually dry further watering will not be 
necessary, but if it prove very dry afford supplies as needed to keep the 
soil moist. There is more to fear from wet than dryness, therefore only 
keep the soil moist and run the hoe frequently through the ground, alike 
to destroy weeds in the seedling state and to let in the sun, light, air, 
dew, and rain, and a good root action will be ensured. 
Second Yeae of Seedlings. —First of the transplanted. The 
seedlings push strongly—one stout head—a hopeful sign. Frost may 
destroy it, causing another to spring the sooner. In any case a second 
head will make its appearance. If frost have destroyed the first head 
there is no choice, but both being present choose between the two, re¬ 
taining the stronger, and cutting the other away. The second very often 
is the stronger; the first will have done some good by stimulating root 
action. Other shoots will spring sooner or later, and as we have the 
strongest yet made for stimulating root action and the best of the season 
to come we can afford to wait. When a third head appears compare it 
with the grass present, and if stouter let it grow, it will be the better for 
the shelter and root-making of its predecessor. Let both grow until the 
third week in May, or if a late season the end of that month or early 
June, then cut the older growth away in favour of the younger. But 
the secondary being smaller than the first cut them away as made, 
retaining the strongest shoot only appearing up to the time named. By 
or before midsummer another shoot may arise much stronger than that 
of the first reservation. Leave it and cut the other away. All after 
this are to be cut away as they appear, unless there spring a giant from 
the base of the last reservation, then allow both to run their course. 
This is the way to get the heads for the epicure. 
We have another-class of plant—viz., that of the previous year with 
two or three growths left, forming that number of crowns. Let the 
first heads remain until the appearance of the second, and being larger 
cut away the first in their favour at the close of May or early June. 
Any other heads appearing, and weaker, cut them away, reserving the 
largest two or three only appearing before and up to the time named. 
If a stronger shoot issue from the base of any reserved shoot before or 
by midsummer cut the older one away, and if a stronger still arise from 
the base of any reserved growth after midsummer let both grow together ; 
but keep down all growths weaker than the reservations. This is the 
way to get fine heads in quantity. The transplanted will push ahead, 
and second growths will come stronger than the first, which will have 
been somewhat checked by transplanting. Make choice of the best one 
or two and at most three shoots present at the end of May or first week 
in June, and cut all others away, pursuing the procedure described above 
for untransplanted seedlings as regards subsequent growths. 
The transplanted and untransplanted are now on a level. Any un¬ 
prejudiced eye can see a difference—the transplanted are good, but the 
untransplanted are better. That, however, need not make any differ¬ 
ence in the treatment. Dress with nitrate of soda and sulphate of 
ammonia at the rate of 2 ozs. per square yard, or 1 lb. each per rod 
(30| square yards) in June, and mulch before the setting in of the dog 
days with any littery stuff at command, and over the whole surface of 
the ground right up to the plants. Give water frequently up to early 
September with the contents of liquid manure tanks and cesspools, but 
a good soaking between the rows every fortnight or three weeks from 
the middle of June is most advisable. 
Staking and tying must be attended to in good time to prevent in¬ 
jury to the growths by wind. Keep the ground free of weeds. In 
autumn cut away the haulm after it has become leafless, placing a little 
littery manure over the crowns in cap form so as to throw off the wet, 
and point the ground over, burying the mulch as deeply as the roots 
allow. 
Thied Y eae.— Heads will be fit to cut. Remove the litter in March, 
and loosen the soil over and around the crowns carefully. This is to allow 
of the stems rising freely. The grass will come strong. Observe the 
same conditions as to reserving the best of the growths as in the second 
year, and as the plants after this year will be fit for any purpose we 
must apportion the growths to the plants and requirements, getting the 
selection over by early June, so as to secure well developed buds at the 
base of the growths, which is particularly advisable when the plants are 
required for forcing, and for affording a first cutting of good heads out¬ 
doors. As the growth is so will be the heads, therefore leave one only to 
insure giant heads, two or at most three to secure fine heads, and five for 
giving a quantity of grass. In the third year the plants must be pre¬ 
pared to furnish the harvest in the fourth, and from year to year after¬ 
wards, therefore the treatment given in the third year of the seedlings 
or second of transplanted will be required in subsequent years, and may 
be best treated of under different headings. 
Manueing. —In the spring of the third year of the seedlings, and 
second of the transplanted, apply a dressing of manure to the whole 
surface of the ground, except immediately over the crowns. In subse¬ 
quent seasons the manuring may be done in autumn, as it generally is 
for convenience, but I consider February or early March a preferable 
time unless the manure be very crude and powerful, when exposure to 
the atmosphere for a short time before pointing under may be advisable. 
That, however, need not be made “ a bone of contention but it is 
important that the manure be as fresh as possible, or so fresh as to be 
workable, and retaining all or most of its manurial properties. The 
soapy stuff which has had most of the ammonia steamed out, and much 
of the virtue left after the steaming washed out by rains, is not the 
manure for Asparagus. Manure from covered sheds, that from farm¬ 
yards disposed thinly and saturated with urine, is the kind for Asparagus. 
The partially decayed stuff from hotbeds—three parts leaves, perhaps 
more, is infinitely better than the soapy stuff resulting from stable or 
farmyard manure laid up for months in a mountain-like heap. 
Stable, Faemyaed, ob Hotbed Mandee. —The first and last 
named are best for heavy or clay soil, and farmyard manure for light 
soil. If crude the littery or unworkable parts should be rejected, which 
will be useful for other purposes, and if saturated with the drainings of 
the dunghill or cesspools will be increased in value as manure or as a 
mulch. A thickness of 3 inches is a suitable dressing. It is the better for 
being spread and exposed to atmospheric influences for a few days before 
pointing in, as it should be as deeply as the roots allow not later than 
March, and always when the ground is in good working order, leaving 
the surface rather uneven, so as to allow of the rain entering freely. 
Night Soil. —Powerful and very valuable, it is doubtful if this has 
an equal for Asparagus. It may be mixed with sufficient dry earth or 
ashes to make it portable, or about two parts more than of the manure. 
Earth closet manure, which should be kept dry, is equally serviceable. 
In any of the forms named it may be applied 3 inches thick. That 
mixed with soil is best for light, and with ashes for heavy soil. It is 
best applied in autumn or some little time prior to pointing in in 
March. 
Pigeon and Fowl Dung. —These are powerful fertilisers, and 
should be kept thin and dry. An inch thick dressing is suitable, applied 
in June and lightly pointed in. 
Blood and Slaughteehouse Refuse. —Mix with two-thirds or 
two parts more of soil than of the blood and refuse, and turn them over 
two or three times— i.e., after lying in a heap about six weeks turn it over, 
and repeat in about a month, and in another month it may be applied 
to the Asparagus as a dressing 3 inches thick in autumn. Dead fish or 
the refuse of fishing stations may be treated and used similarly. 
Seaweed.—A 3-inch dressing on heavy, or 6-inch on light soil, may 
be given in March, and mixed with the soil as deeply as the roots allow. 
A mulch 3 inches thick may be given whenever obtainable, as soda and 
potash in this form are always appreciated, but I consider it best given in 
spring: all the same, lose no opportunity of applying it to the surface 
whenever obtainable. 
Salt. —I have never observed any difference in the growth of 
Asparagus as resulting from a dressing of salt, except where manure 
has been used sparingly and in localities distant from the sea. A 
dressing, however, may be given in late March or early April, as it is 
useful against slugs and weeds ; apply sufficient to make the soil appeal- 
white, or about a peck per rod. I have used it in March at the rate of 
half a peck per rod or 20 bushels per acre, and again in similar propor¬ 
tion after cutting, and this method is perhaps advisable, as salt lowers 
the temperature, therefore should not be given heavily in spring. It is, 
however, of little value as manure, and may be dispensed with where 
the contents of cesspools are used between the rows. The chief recom¬ 
mendation of salt is that of its being readily obtainable. 
Niteate of Soda. —This is the best summer dressing that can be 
given, as it promotes quick and strong growth. It may be applied at 
the rate of 2 to 3 lbs. per rod, or 3 to 4 cwts. per acre, immediately 
after cutting ceases, the ground having been pointed over to get rid of 
the close surface occasioned by cutting, and it will readily be taken 
down by rain. 
Sulphate of Ammonia appears to act similarly to nitrate of soda, 
and may be applied in the same way and at the same time, using the 
same quantity. 
Kelp. —Containing soda and potash this ought to be useful, but I 
must put it in the same category with salt—viz., the Asparagus does not 
derive nearly so much benefit, if any, from an application of salt or 
kelp as from a dressing of seaweed ; therefore we may conclude that salt 
and kelp are only useful as bases for the manufacture of nitrates, and 
that the value of nitrate of soda owes its value as manure to the 
nitric acid. 
Soor. —A valuable manure, most advantageously applied in June 
after cutting and pointing over. A peck per rod, 40 bushels per acre, 
is a good and sufficient dressing. 
There are other substances that will be found useful, such as malt 
dust, which may be given an inch thick as a surface dressing in June 
and pointed in ; “ willy dust,” resulting of the tearing up of old woollen 
material by the “ devil ” in getting the stuff for mungo and shoddy, 
and rags. These are valuable manures, and may be dug into the 
ground in spring similar to manure. They are also of a slow decomposing 
and durable nature. 
In naming so many substances it must not be understood that all are 
