September 1, 1887. ] 
JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 
193 
to be applied to the same ground in one year, but they are mentioned so 
that each cultivator may utilise the means at his disposal. An example 
of the method of using the different substances as they obtain in 
different places will suffice to show what is intended. In a place where 
a dressing of manure has been given it will suffice to use the nitrate of 
soda in June, along with any of the other light dressings, the prin¬ 
cipal constituent of which is ammonia, such as fowl’s dung, or soot. 
Where winter or early spring dressings of manure, night soil, blood 
composts, or seaweed are not given, then we may have recourse to the 
fowl’s dung, soot, or malt dust in spring instead of in summer, or at 
both times, using the nitrate of soda at the time indicated, or it may be 
applied in spring when salt is not used, and it is much more efficacious 
as a slug destroyer. What is wanted is to utilise all available substances, 
and it is scarcely possible to give Asparagus too much support. 
Mulching. —In order to make the most of the manurial matter, and 
of the applications of liquid manure, whether from house sewage or 
stable and other tanks, a mulching of any loose material should be 
given about midsummer, or after the surface dressings in June. A 
mulch 2 or 3 inches thick of any partially decayed material is of great 
advantage in maintaining a moist condition of the soil, retaining manurial 
matter, and preventing the growth of weeds. 
Staking. —The haulm being strong is liable to damage from wind- 
To prevent that, put in stakes so as to be about 4 feet out of the ground 
and about 12 feet apart. Two lines of common tarband are run along 
so as to enclose the haulm, interlaced, but not wrapped round the 
stems. There should be a line of strings at about 2 feet 6 inches from 
the ground, and another near or at the top of the stakes. The strings 
allow the haulm to play with the wind, and this is better than close 
stiff staking and tying. —G. Abbey. 
(To be continued.) 
CULTURE OF THE AMARYLLIS. 
Of late years no plant has been brought more prominently before 
the public than the subject of this note, and it deserves its position, 
for no class of plant has a more gorgeous appearance. Its 
culture is not at all difficult, but except in a few instances it is 
rarely seen in good condition. This may be through attempting to 
grow it in a mixed collection of plants and without bottom heat. 
Too much water is its greatest enemy, and plants are more likely 
to suffer through this when stood on a stage than when plunged. 
Our bulbs are now being grown in a pit, plunged over the pots in tan, 
and have a bottom heat of about 70°. They only require watering 
about every three weeks. The roots are running into the tan, and, 
this being fairly moist, they get all the nourishment they require. 
Ventilation is freely applied, and during the past bright weather 
shading has been necessary. In about another month or six weeks 
water will be entirely withheld and the plants encouraged to go to 
rest with freer ventilation. The temperature must not be allowed 
to fall below 45° during the winter months and the roots should 
be kept perfectly dry. 
The middle to the end of February will be time enough to 
commence potting. The soil best adapted for the Amaryllis is six 
parts fibry loam, one part prepared horse manure, a half part of 
peat, with sufficient sand and pounded charcoal to keep the soil 
open. All the old soil will be shaken from the roots and care taken 
to pot very firmly. This must be particularly attended to, or failure 
will be certain. 
| Some growers are troubled with grubs attacking the base of the 
bulb ; in this case the bulb should be thoroughly washed and care 
taken not to use cow manure or bone dust in the soil. 
The best position for growing the plants is a low span-roofed 
house with a brick pit on each side and a walk down the centre. 
Tan is the best plunging medium, so the beds should be filled with 
this previous to the bulbs being potted. The bottom heat should 
range from 75° to 80°, and top heat 45° to 50°. If a higher top heat 
than this is allowed it will cause top growth in advance of root 
growth, while the opposite is what is required. The pots should 
be plunged right up to the rim, or if a little iabove it all the 
better, as it will keep the soil in a favourable si ate without water 
being necessary. It will probably be a month before water will be 
required, and afterwards about every ten days or a fortnight. It 
is astonishing how quickly the roots decay if over-watered. 
As the growth advances increase the temperature and moisture 
about the path and shade from bright sun. As the spikes of bloom 
and foliage advance a slight syringing on warm days when the 
house is closed will be beneficial, but the house must not be closed 
too soon, as it would cause the spikes to “rush up”—an advance of 
5° or so will be ample. 
Whilst in bloom the plants may be removed to the conservatory, 
but as the blooms fade replunge the pots’ about an inch over the 
rim and treat as advised at the commencement of this paper. By 
the above it will be seen that the culture is very simple if the details 
are carefully carried out. —A. Young. 
FRUIT FORCING. 
Vines. —Earliest Forced House .—It is not necessary to wait until all 
the leaves have fallen before pruning matured Vines for early 
forcing, but the wood must be brown and hard and the leaves turning 
yellow. The pruning will cause the Vines to go more quickly and 
thoroughly to rest. If in good condition they will afford bunches quite 
large enough when pruned to a couple of buds from the base, but if the 
Vines are weak from overcropping or a long course of forcing, the spur 
shoots may be left a little longer with a view to larger bunches. When 
this method is adopted shoots should be taken from as near the base as 
possible in the spring, and should not be allowed to carry fruit, but be 
stopped at about the sixth leaf, and the laterals at the first leaf, and 
subsequently as produced. Such shoots are sure to form good buds; the 
extra foliage will tend to invigorate and support the fruit on the other 
shoot, which can be cut away in due time in favour of the other for 
fruiting the following season. This alternate system of fruiting neces¬ 
sitates the shoots being kept wider apart for development and exposure 
to light and air. If the Vines are grown on the extension system it will, 
only be necessary to cut back to plump buds on firm ripe wood, being 
guided by the space at command, for there must not be overcrowding. 
It is important that the house be thoroughly cleaned, and the Vines 
also. Any weakly Vines, or those in an unsatisfactory state, may be 
improved by removing the soil down to the roots and substituting 
fresh loam, with an admixture of crushed bones to the extent of about 
a twentieth, and if calcareous matter be wanting add from a sixth to a 
tenth of old mortar rubbish according to the character ef the soil, more 
being required for heavy than for lighter soil. Lift any roots available 
for the purpose, laying them out upon the fresh compost, and cover 
3 or 4 inches deep. This is best done before the fall of the leaf. It is 
a mistake to allow Vines when at rest to become very dry at the roots. 
Comparative dryness is desirable, yet great injury is caused by allowing 
the soil to become dust dry. The outside borders should have a covering 
of some kind to protect the roots from the heavy autumn rains, Which 
reduce the temperature considerably. Glass lights are preferable, throw¬ 
ing off heavy rains while allowing the sun’s heat to penetrate the soil. 
Many, however, are obliged to rest content with a covering of leaves 
and litter after cold weather sets in ; and though convinced that good 
Grapes can be produced without material to throw off the rains, yet 
reason and practice justify their employment wherever available for the 
exclusion of moisture in undue proportion to the requirements of the 
Vines. 
Early Forcing Pot Vines .—Those for starting in November must not 
be allowed to become dust dry at the roots. They will now be at rest,, 
the wood ripe, the laterals cut close home, and the canes shortened to 
about 6 feet, more or less, according to the situation of the plump eyes. 
Whilst the cuts are dry dress them with styptic or knotting, to prevent 
trouble from bleeding. They should be kept in a cool, airy house. 
Young Vines .—Those that have made a strong growth, and are late in 
ripening, should be assisted with fire heat, maintaining a minimum of 
65°, and maximum of 75° from fire heat, continuing it until the wood is 
ripe, accompanied with free top and front ventilation. Discourage any 
further growth by the removal of the laterals as they appear. 
Late Grapes. — Grapes, notwithstanding the heat that has pre¬ 
vailed since the early part of June, are not nearly finished in many 
instances, due, no doubt, to their having an unfavourable start, and late 
Grapes require plenty of time. Keep the laterals well thinned, and 
thereby admit as much light as possible to insure the finishing of the 
crop, not by large reductions of foliage at a time, but by frequent pinch- 
ings. Maintain a night temperature of 70° to 75°, falling 5° to 10° during 
the night, increasing 80° to 85° by day, accompanied with a free circula¬ 
tion of air, night and day. It will require sharp firing to finish off those 
that are only commencing colouring before the days are too short to admit 
of full ventilation ; indeed, more may be done in the next four or six weeks 
than in twice the time later on. Those Grapes well advanced in 
ripening may have the atmospheric moisture reduced ; those only colour¬ 
ing should have a moderate amount of moisture to assist their swelling, 
not neglecting to apply water to the inside border as may be necessary. 
Cucumbers. —The shorter days and longer and colder nights 
necessitate the earlier closing of the house, and the employment of the 
syringe also earlier, so as to have the foliage fairly dry by dusk. Fire 
heat will also be necessary to maintain a temperature of 70° to 75° by 
artificial means, falling about 5° during the night. Afford every 
encouragement to the autumn fruiters, removing the first fruits and the 
male blossoms and tendrils. No shading will now be necessary, and 
avoid syringing as far as possible, damping being usually sufficient. Sow 
from now to the middle of the month for a supply of fruit at Christmas 
and the new year onwards. Telegraph is good for this, indeed for any 
sowing, while Cardiff Castle is free and excellent for everyday use. 
