216 
JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 
[ Seitaojber 8 1887 
the proper time. The Grapes, too, in a border well in hand invariably 
set and colour better. Always choose dry weather for making the 
border. Cover it when finished with good-stable litter, and keep the 
interior of the house close and moist until the foliage shows signs of 
fresh root-action having set in, then ventilate freely and keep the air 
dry. In all cases, especially cold wet localities, the Vines should have 
inside as well as outside borders, as the roots can then be lifted and re- 
laid in either of the borders without injury to the following year’s 
<erop. 
PLANT HOUSES. 
Stephanotis floribunda. —It is a great mistake to keep this plant too 
warm, for its growths are more sturdy and more profusely flowered when 
-grown under cooler and more airy conditions than the plant is generally 
•subjected to. Cool, airy treatment after flowering is of the utmost 
importance to thoroughly harden and ripen the wood before the season 
for complete rest arrives. The plants that flowered early in the year 
have had no artificial heat for the last six weeks, and none will be given as 
long as the temperature can be kept from falling below 50° at night. 
Abundance of air should be given during the day, and a little left on the 
structure all night when the weather is mild. The atmospheric condi¬ 
tions of the house should also be much drier than is generally the case. 
If this plant is infested with mealy bug it should be thoroughly 
-syringed once a week with petroleum and water, one ounce of the 
former being added to a gallon of the latter. If the oil is well mixed in 
the manner frequently described, and the plant shaded from strong sun 
for about two days after syringing, the bug may be thoroughly eradi¬ 
cated. Half measures are next to useless, and syringing with petroleum 
two or three times a year only reduces the bug and does not prove 
■effectual in clearing the plants entirely of the pest, 
Clerodendron Bayourianum. —Plants required for forcing into flower 
early another year should be fully exposed to the sun and kept in a 
moderately dry atmosphere, where the temperature at night will not fall 
below 55°. Water should be withheld until the foliage flags, but at first 
this system of bringing growth to a standstill must not be persisted in too 
-severely, or the plant will ripen its foliage prematurely. It is, however, 
necessary to induce the plant to rest, for it will continue to grow at this 
season of the year in a low temperature if kept moist at the roots. 
Plants that flowered later must be encouraged as much as possible to 
make and mature their wood before the approach of winter. Those 
required for late flowering another year should be kept growing as long 
as possible before they are induced to rest, or they will naturally start 
into growth and flower too early. 
Clerodendron fallax. —Plants intended for autumn and winter 
flowering should be placed at once into 5, G, and 10-inch pots according 
to size. If the most forward of these plants, now in 7-ineh pots, show 
signs of flowering, the point of the central shoot must be removed and 
strong lateral growth encouraged. Keep the plants close for a time 
after potting them ; they will soon commence rooting freelv in the new 
soil, and in due time large heads of brilliant scarlet flowers will be 
produced. 
Bougainvillea glabra. —Plants intended for early flowering should 
occupy a cool airy structure to ripen them. They are better grown 
under such conditions than in heated houses, as their wood will become 
hard and ripe, which is the secret of flowering them well another year. 
Those in active growth should have every encouragement to complete it 
as early as possible. If the plants are crowded, remove weak growths 
completely, so that strong luxuriant ones will have every chance of 
ripening properly—an impossibility if the plants are crowded with 
useless wood. 
Allamand ax. — Those for early flowering should be induced to 
complete their growth by placing them in a lower and drier atmo¬ 
sphere. \\ ater must also be partially withheld until they show signs 
of flagging; sufficient, however, should be given to keep the wood fresh 
and plump. If liberally watered and grown under warm conditions, 
"the plants would continue to grow and flower until the end of the year. 
Plants started later into growth may with advantage be retained for 
this purpose. The pots or border may be top-dressed with rich material 
to keep the roots active, and liquid manure may be given in a weak 
state every time they need water. 
THE FLOWER GARDEN AND PLEASURE GROUND. 
Early Frosts. —Already we have had warning that frosts may at any 
time disfigure the more tender bedding plants. Dahlias in some low- 
lying districts were touched by frosts as early as the third week in 
August, but it is to be hoped that they will escape further injury for 
some time to come, for as yet they have given but few flowers. It is 
almost impossible to protect bedding plants generally, but the carpet 
beds may easily be preserved in good colour for some time longer. When¬ 
ever the nights are cold or frost threatens, canvas, or blinds of some 
description, may be stretched over the beds, stakes and material being 
removed in the morning. This will ward off all but very severe frosts, 
•those adopting the plan being well repaid for the little extra trouble 
taken. Iresines, Alternantheras, Ageratums, Coleuses, and Heliotropes 
are among the first to be injured by frost or much cold rain, and if 
stock plants are not already secured some ought to be potted from the 
open ground at once. We usually have a considerable number of 
surplus plants in the mixed or kitchen garden borders, this enabling us 
to lift early if need be without disfiguring the principal beds. Failing 
these a few may yet be got out of the beds without leaving unsightly 
gaps. It is not advisable to lift with large balls of soil, a lighter fresh 
compost suiting the plants much better." They will recover from the 
check of lifting more quickly in gentle heat, and shaded from bright 
sunshine. _ 
Late Propagating. —Zonal Polar oniums of all sorts have made but 
little progress this season, the excessively hot weather favouring flower¬ 
ing rather than strong growth. As a consequence few cuttings have 
been taken off. Many will attempt late propagation, and the cuttings 
being well matured a good strike may result. Those we put in late are 
first made, then allowed to dry for a few hours. If dibbled into boxes 
they are most liable to damp off either now or later on, and we prefer 
to use well drained G-inch pots for the strong growers or green-leaved 
sorts, and 3 £-inch or rather larger for the more delicate variegated varie¬ 
ties. They are at once put under glass, the former into dry pits and 
frames, and the variegated sorts on shelves in empty vineries, Peach, 
and greenhouses. No water is given at first, in fact they are kept some¬ 
what dry till they are wanted to grow strongly early in the spring. 
Under the most careful treatment 15 to 25 per cent, will be lost, but the 
plan of staking late cuttings is preferable to depending largely 'on 
lifted old plants for affording cuttings next spring. We would also 
make a late attempt, if necessary, to strike soft young growth of Verbenas, 
Lobelias, Ageratums, Iresines, Coleuses, Alternantheras, Alyssum, 
Marguerites, and Mesembryanthemums. These should be dibbled in 
rather thickly in 5-inch pots, and placed in a close frame over a gentle 
bottom heat. They must be watered in, shaded from bright sunshine, 
and given a little air only when damp is likely to spread and injure 
them. They may be wintered in the pots they have rooted in, and in 
the spring will yield a quantity of good cuttings. The Mesembryanthe¬ 
mums and Sempervivum arboreum strike best on a dry sunny shelf in 
heat, and must be very carefully watered, or the cuttings will damp off 
wholesale. Cuttings of Calceolarias and Violas are late and scarce. 
Fortunately the plants are now growing vigorously, and cuttings may 
be put in as late as the first week in October with every prospect of a 
successful strike. 
Tuberous Begonias. —Many who have recently commenced using 
this beautiful and rain-defying class of plants in their summer arrange¬ 
ments are somewhat at a loss what to do with them. Just now they are 
flowering grandly, and may safely be left in the ground till frosts badly 
damage the tops, when the bulbs may be lifted, much of the soil 
cleared from the roots, and be then packed closely in boxes of fairly 
moist soil. Kept in a cool room, house, or shed, and protected from 
severe frost and drip, they will remain plump and sound till started 
into growth late in the spring. Begonias in full bloom may be readily 
potted from the open ground, and they will remain in good condition in 
a greenhouse or conservatory for several weeks. It is unwise to attempt 
toTift them with a very large ball of soil about the roots, in fact very 
little is needed, and the pots used for them may vary from 6 inches to 
8 inches in size. Now that such excellent strains of tuberous Begonias 
can be bought cheaply it is scarcely advisable to retain the poor older 
sort -. Those that are most effective in pots are also much the best in 
beds. At any rate it is advisable to mark the best, and keep these in 
separate boxes. Begonia weltoniensis and B. Carrieri are both very 
effective in beds, and lift safely. The former will flower in a cool 
house for several weeks longer, while Carrieri is a very charming 
white variety, and continuous flowering in eentle heat. Newly struck 
tuberous Begonias will form small bulbs before the top growth decays, 
and these should be stored as advised in the case of the larger tubers. 
HINTS TO BEGINNERS 
HIVES. 
Whatever sort of hive the beginner fixes upon different from 
what I have recommended, he should be careful, if double-cased, 
to have the sides of the hive rising considerably above the top of 
the frames, and the roof to go outside the hive, telescopic fashion, 
for throwing off water and preventing it being drawn in by capillary 
attraction, as is the case commonly with checked roofs. But the 
two sides above the frames must not be fixed ; there must be a joint 
on a level with the top of the frames, and this joint, as well as all 
others, must be well bevelled underneath, and have the rain drip 
above. This portion ought to be fixed with brass screws. This 
convenience will suggest itself to the merest tyro when manipu¬ 
lating with crates or supers. It is very convenient for the bees, if 
either the back or front of the hive is thoroughly closed, if it be at 
all chilly, or shaded from the sun’s rays. If that is not done, many 
bees during winter are apt to be lost when they fall or are drifted 
behind. The hive open causes a great draught, some sites being 
worse than others. 
WATER. 
This should be provided for bees whenever that is not obtainable 
at an easy and safe distance from the apiary. A good watertrough 
may be easily made from inch wood, say 2 feet long by 9 inches 
broad, thoroughly pointed before putting in the water. Strike off 
