260 
JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 
[ September 22, 1887. 
farther extension, yet not reducing the foliage much, as this assists 
Hamburghs to keep their colour. 
Hous-s of Eij)e Grapes .—Hamburghs and all the thin-skinned 
varieties of Grapes require frequent examination for the removal of 
decayed berries, damp being their greatest enemy. It should be pre¬ 
vented as much as possible by fire heat in the daytime, accompanied by 
free ventilation, allowing the house to cool before night. 
Young Vines .—Vines planted this spring or in early summer will 
need every encouragement in keeping the foliage clean and healthy, also 
keep the laterals away from the principal leaves in order to their free 
exposure to light and air, especially those at the base of the canes, so 
that the buds to which the Vines are to be pruned may get thoroughly 
matured and the wood at that part thoroughly ripened. In order to 
insure the ripening of the wood maintain a genial warmth by day, and 
throw the house open at night. 
Figs. —Early Forced Pot Trees .—These should have the roots 
examined, and as it is not advisable to increase the pot room, remove a 
few inches of soil from the base of the balls, cutting back the roots, and 
replace with fresh fibrous loam, adding about a tenth of old mortar 
rubbish and a sprinkling of crushed bones, good drainage being pro¬ 
vided. Remove the loose surface soil and replace with the above com¬ 
post, adding a fourth of well decomposed manure. Alford a good 
watering, and place the trees where they can have plenty of air with 
shelter from heavy rains and frost. 
Planted-out Trees .—Keep these drier at the roots, but avoid extreme 
dryness, and a drier condition of the atmosphere will tend to promote 
the perfecting of the growths. As soon as the latest trees are cleared of 
their crops keep drier at the roots and the house well ventilated in 
favourable weather. Any root-pruning or partial lifting should be done 
when the leaves show indications of falling. 
PLANT HOUSES. 
CaJlas .—These may now be lifted and potted. Preserve all the fibry 
roots possible, and if placed in the pots with fresh soil, one-third of 
which is decayed manure, they will be established and rooting freely 
again in about a fortnight. After potting give a thorough soaking of 
water, and stand the plants behind a north wall until they are sufficiently 
established to bear full exposure to the sun. For the first week after 
lifting syringe them two or three times a day during bright weather 
when the atmosphere is practically dry. 
Salvias .—Lift and pot these also, but large pots are not necessary. 
These are quick free-rooting plants, and quickly become established. 
Pot them in t ood fibry loam and one-seventh of manure ; the soil should 
be pressed firmly to prevent a soft quick gro .vth after they are estab¬ 
lished. The same treatment advised for Callas will suit them well until 
they are rooting sufficiently to bear exposure to the sun. 
Boumrdias .—Those that have been planted out may be carefully 
lifted and placed in [ ots. In the compost for these one-third of leaf 
soil may with advantage be added to the loam. These may be estab¬ 
lished under the same conditions as advised for Salvias, but we have 
found they commence root activity much more quickly when placed in 
cold frames if they are kept moist and shaded from the sun. Those in 
pots that have been plunged with the rims below the surface may also 
be lifted, and all roots that have extended over the surface and out at 
the base may be cut away. They will not suffer by this process if well 
soaked with water and then kept close, moist, and shaded in frames for 
a week or ten day s. If it is desired to bring any of the plants into 
flower as early as possible select those that are in the most forward con¬ 
dition that have rooted least out of the pots, and place them in a tem¬ 
perature of 55° to 00°. 
Solanums and Eupatoriunis .—The last may be lifted and treated the 
.same as advised for Bouvardias. If frame room cannot be accorded 
them they may be subjected to the same treatment as Salvias ; they can 
be established by this method, but are longer. Solanums that have been 
grown in pots and plunged during the summer should be lifted, and the 
roots cut away that have passed into the soil surrounding the pots. If 
placed in frames they will bear full exposure to the sun in a week or 
fen days. They must be well watered, kept close and moist until it can 
be discerned that they are making fresh roots freely. If the berries are 
in a backward state place them at once under greenhouse treatment, 
but be careful not to allow the pots to stand upon a dry base, or the 
foliage may turn a sickly yellow, and then the appearance of the plants 
is destroyed. To assist the plants to perfect their berries when well 
established apply a little artificial manure to the surface of the soil. 
Those that have been planted out should be lifted and potted firmly in 
good loam with one-seventh of manure, and then stood behind a north 
wall until they are established. Directly they are potted a good soaking 
of water must be given, and then be kept thoroughly moist until they are 
established. 
Zonal Pe'argon iums. — Plants that have been outside for winter 
flowering should be placed under cover as speedily as possible. The 
.earliest and most promising may be placed in a light airy structure for 
the present, where they will gradually come into flower. The others 
may have the protection of cold frames. This is necessary only to 
.shield the plants from heavy rains, which start them into rapid growth. 
This must be avoided, for growth made under these conditions is soft 
and unfit to yield a long profusion of bloom. The lights should be 
thrown off on all fine day's, and well tilted at night, so that the plants 
have as much air about them as if stood outside. From these all the 
flower buds that are visible may be removed. They should also be 
watered with greater care than was necessary during the past hot dry 
weather, for if kept too wet they will start into active growth, and 
under such conditions they might just as well be left outside. At the 
present time these plants are in excellent condition, with hard well- 
ripened wood, which will certainly flower well if carefully treated until 
they are allowed to unfold their blooms. 
Ivy-leaved Varieties .—These must be under cover without delay, for 
it is useless to ripen them if allowed to make soft growth outside 
afterwards. At first they must have cool airy treatment in the green¬ 
house or in frames, so as not to unduly excite them, and when signs of 
movement are visible they should occupy a light position where a tem¬ 
perature of 55° to 60° at nijit can be maintained. This treatment will 
result in abundance of delicate flowers for cutting. 
THE FLOWER GARDEN AND PLEASURE GROUND. 
Preparing for Frosts .—Cold nights are now very frequent, and we 
shall be fortunate if no damaging frosts are experienced during Septem¬ 
ber. If not already done, old plants needed for furnishing cuttings 
next spring ought at once to be potted up from the open ground. 
Zonal Pelargonium cuttings being very scarce, it will be necessary in 
most gardens to store the greater portion of the old plants. It will .be 
unwise to leave these out till badly damaged by frosts, the tops being 
especially needed for making into cuttings next spring. They will not 
long remain ornamental in the beds, and their early removal will admit 
of the beds being replanted with spring flowering plants while yet the 
ground and the weather is favourable for the operations. Pelargoniums 
may be lifted without any soil about the roots, and be stored thickly in 
large pots or boxes of light soil, or they may be potted off singly into as 
small pots as they can be comfortably got into. As most of the old 
leaves will damp off, it is advisable to pick the greater portion of them 
at once. They should be set under glass and kept rather on the dry 
side till somewhat recovered ; in fact, they ought to be only just kept 
alive through the winter, no active growth being encouraged before the 
spring. It is next to useless to lift Lobelias and Ageratums that are 
full of bloom and have no young growths on them. These rarely sur¬ 
vive or give any cuttings. Bulbous or tuberous-rooted plants may be 
left in the ground till the tops are disfigured by frosts. Last season 
they escaped injury till near November, but this was too late for them 
to remain in the ground, and many Dahlias and Begonias especially 
were lost in consequence. All the Dahlias should be properly labelled 
before it is too late, or they are of little service for propagating pur¬ 
poses next spring. Seedlings, notably of single flowering sorts, ought 
to be gone over, and only the best marked for lifting, the inferior ones 
eventually going to the rubbish heap. 
Pants that Pot up Readily .—Owing to the dryness of the season 
very many plants have not grown nearly as stron.ly as usual, and arc 
only just flowering freely. Cold rains and frosts will soon spoil their 
beauty, whereas if a portion of them were carefully lifted and potted 
they would prove very serviceable either for decorating greenhouses and 
conservatories or for affording cut blooms in quantity. Dahlias do not 
lift well out of a heavy soil, this crumbling awav wholesale from the 
roots, but out of lighter soils they transplant readily. Such compara¬ 
tively dwarf sorts as Glare of the Garden, Cochineal, and Guiding Star 
are very effective in pots, and as they have not flowered much hitherto 
they ought to continue in full bloom for several weeks. We have at 
different times been successful in lifting and flowering even such tall 
sorts as Paragon, Juarezi, and Constance. The last-named is perhaps 
the most valuable of all Dahlias in a cut state, especially seeing how 
beautiful it is in wreaths and crosses. Mrs. Hawkins is also a favourite, 
and will be potted this season. They require rather large pots, or 
from 10-inch to 12-inch in size, the coarser growers sometimes still 
larger, and the potting should be done where the plants are lifted, as 
the soil is apt to crumble away in the course of a short journey to a 
potting shed. Set the plants in a cool house, shade from bright sun¬ 
shine, and keep them well supplied with water—an overhead syringing 
on clear days also assisting them. Marguerites can be potted easily, or 
, without experiencing a severe check. We select the sturdiest or most 
upright plants, placing them in 10-inch pots, and they continue to flower 
freely till well into the winter. Gaillardias picta and Lorenziana, if 
not grown to a great size, will also lift well and continue to yield their 
showy flowers for several weeks after. Stocks do not transplant well, 
but late Asters may be potted safely, and the blooms are in demand 
till such times as Chrysanthemums are plentiful. We have also been 
successful with small clumps of Japanese Anemones, Abutilons, Fuchsias, 
Plumbagos, Tuberous and other Begonias, and early-flowering Chrysan¬ 
themums ; all can be potted safely, taking care in every' case to shade 
them from bright sunshine till recovered somewhat. 
Transplanting Evergreens .—Conifers and various evergreen shrubs 
move capitally at this time of the year, and for several reasons we prefer 
to do as much as possible of the work of transplanting now, forming 
new shrubberies and re-arranging the old ones. At this time of year 
it often happens more men can well be spared from other work than is 
the case in the spring, and, moreover, the state of the ground favours the 
operations. When a tree or shrub is carefully transplanted thus early 
in the autumn they have time to partially recover from the check, and 
very frequently form fresh root fibre before cold weather stops all active 
growth. If placed in a good position, and always, if possible, in rather 
better soil than they were previously rooting in, they rarely experience a 
great check, and form good growth the following season. We find that not 
enough rain has fallen to well moisten the soil near the stems of the 
trees, and much sheltered soil is still quite dry a little way below the 
