290 
JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 
[ October 6, 1887. 
of this variety, grown on the orthodox principle also looked very 
promising, showing clearly this variety has a constitution equal to 
its parent. Some of the plants had been pinched, but no differ¬ 
ence was perceptible in their appearance, all assumed the 
same periods of growth, &c. A collection of other varieties is 
also grown, not remarkable for numbers, but all showing traces of 
careful cultivation.—E. M. 
MORE ROOM FOR VINE SHOOTS. 
The importance of training the shoots of Vines, and indeed of 
all other fruit trees thinly, is well known to all observant and 
practical fruit growers. The practice has been advocated in the 
horticultural press perhaps as long as it has been in existence ; and 
judging from the crowded state of the shoots on hundreds of Vines 
grown under glass in this country it is still necessary to urge its 
importance. The exchange of ideas through the medium of the 
press is productive of a great amount of good to gardeners as a 
body, as it often brings to their minds the necessity of doing many 
things that would perhaps escape their notice until too late. These 
thoughts have often occurred to me when reading, as I have done 
for years, many of the valuable articles contributed to this Journal, 
from which I have gained much sound and useful information. 
But to return to my subject. The present is a capital time to 
examine Vines and all kinds of fruit trees that have been cleared 
of their fruit before the leaves have fallen, as it can now be easily 
seen where they are too much crowded. They can be thinned 
accordingly, so that the ripening influence of sun and air during 
the next month may have a beneficial effect upon those buds 
from which we hope to get our next year’s supply of fruit. I 
am of opinion that in many cases we might with advantage train 
the shoots of Vines a little more thinly than is usually done, taking 
especial notice of the size of leaf and wood of each variety. 
Another matter that must not be overlooked is that those 
varieties that are liable to be injured by scalding should have the 
spurs a little closer together. Lady Downe’s, although rather a 
strong grower, should have the shoots a little closer together than 
most other varieties on that account. All Vines in good health 
produce a great many more bunches than they can bring to perfec¬ 
tion, so then it is clearly not necessary to crowd the shoots in 
order to get a sufficient quantity of fruit; and when quality is 
considered those Grapes grown on Vines trained thinly are far in 
advance of the apologies for bunches we sometimes see suspended 
from a thicket of Vine shoots. When the main laterals are trained 
closely together and stopped at one or two joints beyond the bunch 
there is very little if any room for sub-lateral growth without it is 
allowed to crowd the main leaves. I am a great believer in allow¬ 
ing Vines plenty of freedom during the growing season, so long as 
the young growths do not unduly crowd the main laterals. 
I have, after much careful observation, come to the conclusion 
that all white Grapes should have the spurs farther apart than 
black Grapes, as I am convinced that to have them coloured to per¬ 
fection the diffused rays of sunshine should be able to reach the 
berries from the time they begin swelling. They then gradually 
assume the beautiful amber tint all Grape growers admire, but 
which can never be obtained where the berries are grown under a 
thick canopy of foliage until they are nearly full sized, and then 
exposed to light by having the leaves tied back. Trebbiano is a 
variety that grows very strongly and produces enormous leaves, and 
is really a fine Grape when well coloured, as it is sometimes seen, 
but when grown in the ordinary w'ay it is difficult to get sufficient 
light upon the berries to colour them as they should be. If the 
Vines are planted 4 feet apart and the spurs 22 inches distant; from 
each other, the sun acting upon the berries during the whole of the 
growing season gives them a pale colour throughout, quite different 
from the deep green colour during the growing period of those of 
the same variety growing with more foliage overhead. By the 
time they are ripe those grown under the influence of the greatest 
amount of diffused sunlight are along way ahead in colour of those 
grown under the shade of foliage and afterwards exposed to full 
sunshine. This I have noticed in several instances during the past 
few years. 
Muscats and Foster’s Seedling not being such vigorous growers 
will succeed well with the spurs from 18 to 20 inches apart. Gros 
Colman, Gros Guillaume, and Gros Maroc will do wonderfully well 
at that distance apart, which will allow plenty of room for the 
wood and foliage to develope, and still supply a sufficient canopy of 
foliage to enable them to colour well, as I consider all thick- 
skinned black Grapes colour best when a fair amount of light 
reaches them. As far as my own experience goes, however, Black 
Hamburghs colour the best under a good canopy o ' foliage, and for 
this reason I should advise that shoots be trained about 15 inches 
apart, and a good run of laterals allowed at colouring time. Madres- 
field Court with us is only a moderately strong grower, and the shoots 
are trained from 15 to 18 inches apart, and the laterals are allowed 
perfect freedom from the time they commence to take their last, 
swelling till the fruit is cut. Mrs. Pince, although not a strong 
grower, should always be trained thinly, as it delights in plenty of 
growth beyond the bunch. We sometimes allow three or four 
joints beyond and have the spurs from 18 to 20 inches apart, so 
that the shoots on one kind can be extended beyond those on the 
next. We invariably find that the sides of the bunches facing the 
sun are the best coloured. 
When the Grapes are cut the present is a capital time to 
examine each Vine, and when the spurs appear too much crowded 
cut some of them out and remove all sub-laterals from those left, 
and in the earliest house shorten the main laterals to within five or 
six leaves of their base. This exposes the remaining portion 
thoroughly to the ripening influence of sun and air, and cannot fail 
to have a beneficial effect upon them by causing the buds to be¬ 
come plump and solid. Some persons appear to be doubtful as to 
the utility of this operation, and I think it may do more harm than- 
good if performed too early, but for early Vines intended for start¬ 
ing in November or December from the middle to the end of 
September is the best and also a safe time. If all sub-laterals have 
been previously removed some time during August the reduction 
of foliage is a gradual one, and it is certainly not advisable to cut 
away a great amount of wood from Vines at one time, especially if 
the Vines are still making vigorous growth. The roots must then 
be in an active condition, and it is only natural to suppose that a 
sudden curtailment of top growth must cause a corresponding de¬ 
crease in the root-action. After Vines have been forced early for 
several years lateral growth will be almost if not quite completed 
by the middle of September, and by removing the shoots as above 
indicated no great check can be caused ; and, moreover, the 
enfeebled energies of the Vines, instead of being wasted in the pro¬ 
duction of useless growth which cannot be ripened, will be concen¬ 
trated in the next bloom buds, to which we look forward hope¬ 
fully for something good the following year.—H. Dunkin. 
COMPOST ABOUT THE ROOTS OF ORCHIDS. 
One of the prevailing evils in the culture of plants is repotting; 
them before they really need it, and placing them into pots too 
large with too much material for the roots to ramble amongst- 
This is especially noticeable in the cultivation of Orchids, and not 
only amateurs, but many gardeners, young, old, and middle-aged 
fall into this error, with the result that the plants are.frequently 
found in a sickly condition and are finally lost. 
Thousands of imported plants are annually killed by placing, 
them directly they are received into pots too large for them, .and’ 
cramming about their stems as much soil as would with care and 
proper treatment last them for five or six years. Under such con¬ 
ditions the plants very rarely start freely into root-action or growth, 
and those that do so are liable to lose the whole of the roots they, 
have made during the first winter. To try to recruit plants that 
have decreased in strength will end in failure, as under the best 
treatment a very small per-centage can be restored. It is far more 
satisfactory to start with healthy imported Orchids. 
Imported plants show unmistakeably that they have been torn 
from trees, rocks, or some similar position with but a little moss, 
small Ferns, and decayed vegetable matter amongst their roots. 
The latter upon examination will very generally be found to be- 
pseudo-bulbs that have decayed with moss and the roots of small 
Ferns that have become established amongst them. If beginners 
Avho have no knowledge of the culture of Orchids are to attain 
success they must follow Nature as nearly as possible, for it is much 
better to start the plants into growth and root activity without soil 
than by its aid. Whether placed in pots, pans, blocks, rafts, 
or in baskets they should be allowed to make good roots and have 
started their new growth before an attempt be made to. place either 
peat fibre or moss about them. If placed in a warm, intermediate, 
or cool house where the moisture maintained is sufficient for healthy 
plants, whether Orchids or otherwise, they will start freely, and the 
moisture in the house at first is all they need until they are plump 
and show r signs of rooting, when they can be dipped occasionally, or 
syringed so as to maintain moisture about the crocks, charcoal, or 
block upon or amongst which they are secured. If they are placed 
in pots, pans, or baskets, the smallest, according to the size of the- 
