October 6, 1887. ] 
JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 
303 
protection, and if tarpaulin is employed over all to throw off heavy 
rains and snow nothing further need be done to outside borders, and 
they need not he covered until they have been well moistened by the 
autumn rains, yet before they become soddened and much reduced in 
temperature. Where, however, fermenting materials are available they 
are a great aid in forcing operations, and especially so for placing inside 
the house to generate and maintain a genial condition of the atmo¬ 
sphere, without recourse to so much tire heat or sprinklincs from the 
syringe. The materials need not be used until the house is closed, but 
they will need to be thrown into a heap a week or ten days previously, 
turned and moistened if necessary. Three parts of Oak or Beech leaves 
to one of stable litter will give a more suitable warmth and ammonia 
vapour than all dung. Mix well together when thrown into the heap, 
damping if dry, turning when getting warm, again damping if necessary, 
and when well warmed through they arc fit for placing in the house. 
Early forced Vines in Pots. —If bottom heat can be given to start 
them they will mark their appreciation by breakingiwell. Provided there 
is a bed of about 3 feet depth and 4 feet width, the pots may be raised 
upon those bricks in pillar fashion, so that their rims are slightly higher 
than the pit edge, and so that the pots will be in the centre of the bed. 
Leaves being placed in to fill the pit a gentle warmth will he afforded 
the Vines, and the roots will pass from the pots into the leaves, deriving 
support beneficial to the growth of the Vines. The temperature at the 
roots ought not to exceed 75°, and in the atmosphere 50° to 55° by arti¬ 
ficial means, until the buds swell, then gradually increase it to <10° to 
65° when they are breaking. The canes should be depressed to a hori¬ 
zontal position to secure their breaking regularly. Damp the house and 
canes morning and afternoon. To have ripe Grapes in March the Vines 
should not be started later than the early part of November. 
Late Grapes .—These will be thoroughly ripe if they were hastened 
in spring by the aid of fire heat, which is much preferable to having to 
maintain a forcing temperature after October comes in to secure the 
ripening of the fruit. In the latter case the temperature must not be 
less than 70° to 75° by day and 65° at night, falling 5 0, through the 
night, allowing an advance to 80° or 85° from sun heat, continuing'this 
until the Grapes are ripe, at least until the wood is brown and hard. 
The fruit being thoroughly ripe, in which state only can the Grapes be 
expected to winter satisfactorily, and the wood thoroughly matured, all 
spray or laterals may be removed down to the main buds, ventilating 
freely on all favourable occasions. Fire heat will then only be necessary 
to prevent the temperature falling below 50°. To prevent dust settling 
upon the berries raking or sweeping must not be practised. Mats or 
dry clean straw laid over the inside borders will to some extent prevent 
evaporation, assist in keepingithe atmosphere dry, and prevent the soil 
cracking. The outside borders must be covered if the fruit is to keep 
satisfactorily. Glass lights are best, wooden shutters good, and tarpaulin 
over dry bracken or straw answers well. A good thick thatch of bracken 
or straw is very serviceable. 
Young Vines .—Those that have a disposition to keep on growing to a 
late period may be checked by stopping the shoots moderately, and 
facilitate the ripening of the wood by a high and dry temperature by 
day, shutting off the heat and keeping the ventilators open by night. 
Chekries.— If it is intended to plant any trees it should be seen to 
as soon'as the leaves have fallen, or if the trees are at hand those trained 
to walls for four to six years are best, and repeatedly lifted, they may be 
planted as soon as the leaves give indications of falling. The Cherry— 
like all stone fruits — thrives best in a calcareous soil, turfy loam 
inclined to be strong rather than light, with a tenth of old mortar 
rubbish and a sixth of road scrapings thoroughly incorporated, answering 
well, the border being about 24 inches deep, over 9 inches to a foot of 
drainage, secured with a layer of old mortar rubbish, and about f> feet 
wide, which is ample for trees grown under glass. Black Tartarian and 
May Duke are the best varieties, but Early Rivers is a welcome addition, 
and especially valuable for early dishes. The yellow-fleshed varieties 
form an excellent addition to the dessert when fresh fruit is not 
plentiful; Early Jaboulay, Elton, and Governor Wood are first-rate. 
The lights having been removed they need not be replaced for a month 
or six weeks, the old surface soil being removed without injury to the 
roots and replaced with fresh compost, that above named answering 
with the addition of a fourth of manure, Trees in pots required to be 
shifted into a larger size should be attended to at once ; and those not 
required to be so treated should be turned out of the pots, removing a 
few inches of soil from the base, cutting back the roots, and supply fresh 
loam, adding about a tenth of old mortar rubbish and a sprinkling of 
half-inch bones, good drainage being provided. The surface soil should 
be removed, supplying the above compost, adding a fourth of 
decayed manure. The soil, whether for trees planted out or in pots, 
should be made firm. Afford a good watering, and place the trees 
where they can have plenty of air. If stood outdoors they should be 
plunged over the rim of the pots. 
PLANT HOUSES. 
Camellias. —Those that require cleaning should be attended to with¬ 
out delay. This is especially necessary where the buds are Swelling 
rapidly. Those of later growth can be cleaned afterwards if the time 
cannot now be devoted to them. Be careful not to use insecticides too 
strong at this period of the development of the flower buds, for they are 
easily checked, which would most probably result in them falling in a 
.short time or before the buds are fully developed. If the plants are 
syringed with a solution of petroleum and water it is much betttertodo 
so twice than to subject them to one strong application. No better in¬ 
secticide than petroleum can be used, for if followed by syringing the 
plants at intervals of a few weeks it is certain to effect the destruction 
of scale, which is the worst enemy of the Camellia. At this period of 
the plant s growth it will be safe to use 3 ozs. of petroleum to four 
gallons of water. This must be well mixed before it is distributed over 
the plant, and repeated again in about a fortnight. If the leaves are 
covered with a black glutinous matter, which is deposited principally 
by scale, add a lump of common w’ashing soda to each four gallons about 
the size of a Cob Nut. This will loosen all the dirt, which can then be 
washed off by subjecting the ] lants to a heavy syringing. Plants that 
have been outside must be carefully treated after they are housed. If 
they are stood upon a dry base and the atmosphere about them becomes 
dry they are certain to receive a check, and the buds will eventually 
fall. Keep the atmosphere moderately moist and syringe the plants 
twice daily. They must also be watered with great care at their roots, 
for it is of the utmost importance that they are neither too wet nor too 
dry. Those that are confined at the roots in tubs or pots may be sup¬ 
plied with weak stimulants every time they need water. Stimulants irt 
a strong state must be avoided, because greater harm than good will! 
result ; but, if applied as directed, the plants will be greatly benefited, 
for in their present stage they need support more than at any other 
period of their growth. 
Azaleas. —Where these plants are placed outside for a short time 
annually, no time should be lost in getting them under cover ; in fact, 
they may be placed at once in their winter quarters. Before doing so, 
however, examine them, and if any trace of thrips exists upon the plants 
thoroughly syringe them with a solution of tobacco water and soft 
soap, in which has been dissolved a amall piece of washing soda about 
the size of a Cob Nut to each 4 gallons of the mixture ; about oz. of 
soap will do in the same quantity. The tobacco water should be diluted 
until it is about the colour of stout. If this washing is thoroughly 
done, and the house in which they are placed is clean, the plants will 
give very little more trouble in this respect until they have flowered. 
Give the plants full exposure to the sun with plenty of air day and 
night. Keep the atmosphere rather moist, syringing the plants once or 
twice daily according to the weather. Supply water carefully to the 
roots, and do not allow the plants in any stage to suffer by an insufficient 
supply of water. 
Greenhovse Bhododcndrons. —These should also be under cover, for 
nothing does them more harm than being saturated by heavy rains, if 
any thrips are found on the plants syringe them the same as advised 
for Azaleas. These insects are easily found on Rhododendrons, for they 
only attack the upper side of the foliage. These plants should stand on. 
some moisture-holding material. 
A ma ryllises. —These w ill be showing signs of going to rest. They should 
be fully exposed to the sun and the atmosphere kept moderately dry. 
Less water should also be given at their roots, but it must not be with¬ 
held suddenly. The supply must be gradually diminished, for by this- 
meaps.only can their fleshy roots be preserved in good condition. If the 
supply of water is withheld suddenly they are certain to perish. 
THE FLOWER GARDEN AND PLEASURE GROUND. 
SJirvbly Calceolarias and Violas. —We give these almost identical 
treatment from first to last. Both being comparatively hardy, the Cal¬ 
ceolaria the least so, the roughest of frames are all that are necessary for 
protecting them during winter, these beiug occasionally covered with 
mats or strawy litter. It is not advisable to insert the cuttings or to 
cause them to root early, as the less growth they make before or during 
the winter the better. Early in October is quite soon enough to put in 
the cuttings, and no bottom heat \vhatever is necessary or advisable. 
Ordinary garden frames being devoted to them, a thick layer of half 
decayed stable manure and leaves should be firmly packed in the bottom, 
on this about 4 inches of loamy soil, finishing off with about 2 inches of 
sifted sandy soil, and this may farther be faced with sharp sand. In 
the case of the Calceolarias the preference should he given to the firm 
ftowerless shoots, these, cut to a joint and the lower pair of leaves- 
trimmed off, being about 3 inches long. They should at once be dibbled 
in about 4 inches apart each way, watered, and kept close and shaded 
from bright sunshine till rooted. Subsequently they should receive 
plenty of air on all favourable occasions, so as to keep them alive and 
sturdy till the time has arrived for encouraging quick growth. The 
short flowerless shoots of Violas springing from the stems of the old 
plants are most suitable for cuttings, but if these be scarce the tops of 
the old shoots may be taken off and rooted, these also usually pushing 
up healthy growth during the following spring. 
Carnations and Pinks: —Layered shoots of the former ought now to- 
be well rooted and ready for separation from the parent plants. In,the 
southern districts the bulk of the plants may safely he placed out at 
once where they are to flower next season, but on the whole we prefer 
to pot them up and winter them in cold frames or pits. We use clean 
well-drained 3^-inch pots, and a compost consisting of two parts of good 
loam to one of leaf soil, adding plenty of sharp-sand. The young plants 
require to he carefully and firmly potted, and after being set in a frame- 
should be watered and kept rather close for a few days. Being well 
rooted they require no shading, as this encourages a weakly growth. 
They ought during the winter to veceive all the light and air possible, 
being closely protected from severe frosts only. Ours are raised near 
