326 
JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 
[ October IS. J88T. 
a cooler site, and filling up the blanks in the latter with young trees 
from a nursery. All this means a little extra labour and some expense, 
but it is always wise to utilise the best positions to their fullest extent. 
If we wait till the old trees collapse and then fill their places with the 
best that can be procured from most nurseries, much valuable wall and 
house space is wasted for some time. Almost any tree that has not 
occupied its present site, say more than twelve vears, may, as a rule, be 
moved safely, and if the work is carried out in a thorough manner they 
will be improved by the operation. Before tran splanting a tree see that 
the proposed site for it is well prepared. Wherever an old tree has long 
been standing, the greater portion of the border within a half-circle of 
about 6 feet in diameter will be totally unfit for the reception of a fresh 
trhe. A depth of about 6 inches of soil may usually be thrown back, 
but at least a good spit under this ought to be wheeled clean away, and 
a fresh compost consisting, if possible, of equal portions of turfy loam 
and fresh garden soil be substituted. If all fresh loam could be used 
so much the better, and plenty of burnt garden refuse, and in the case 
of heavy soils lime rubbish, will always improve the compost. Quite 
young trees should have no 3olid manure in the soil, but we usually add 
a little for the larger trees, and crushed bones also when we can get 
them. Starvation treatment is very wrong in the case of wall trees, 
these meriting more liberal treatment than any kind of vegetable, yet 
the latter usually have all the best of it. 
The trees to be moved ought not to be unnailed or released from 
the walls till the roots and intended ball have been well undermined. 
First open a wide trench, in some cases fully 6 feet from the stem of 
the tree, gradually and carefully undermine the roots, using forks prin¬ 
cipally for the work, with the id- a of saving as many of the fibres as 
possible. Do not attempt to save a larger ball of soil than those doing 
the work are capable of lifting and carrying. Cleanly cut through all deep 
running roots, lighten the ball on the top, and make the bottom as flat 
as possible. Next work under the ball and stem of the tree either a 
short, wide, and strong board, such as can be got comfortably into the 
hole, or a short legless handbarrow, then unfasten the tree and let it 
settle on this, when it can then be carried to its new site, and at once 
slipped off to where it is to remain. Plant rather above the surrounding 
level to allow for sinking, all bruised roots being cut back, and the points 
of the remainder cleanly cut across, then spread out evenly and thinly 
much as they spring from the stem and covered with pne of the finest 
of the soil, making this fairly firm about them. Only temporarily 
fasten the trees to the wall, or otherwise they will not settle with the 
soil, and'if. there are leaves yet hanging it maybe advisable to give 
■a good soaking at the roots, and an occasional overhead syringing. All 
mewly planted trees should have a mulching of strawy manure, this 
saving the already mutilated roots from further injury from frosts. 
The warmth enclosed may also assist the roots in healing and forming 
fibres before the winter sets in. Much that has been advised in the case 
of the wall trees is also applicable to various kinds of fruit trees in the 
open ground, and which also well repay for a little extra attention 
occasionally. 
FRUIT FORCING. 
Melons. —The end of the Melon season is approaching, especially a s 
regards those grown in frames and pits heated by fermenting materials, 
though fairly well flavoured fruit may be had up to November, especially 
of Scarlet Premier, which is one of the very best for late work, and has 
the advantage of keeping a considerable time, therefore continuing the 
supply to a late period. Any fruits approaching ripeness should be cut 
with a good portion of stem, and placed in a house with a gentle warmth, 
where they will ripen and be welcome additions to the dessert. 
In houses the supply will be kept up for some time longer, indeed 
our latest fruits are only swelling. Sufficient moisture will be secured to 
this crop by damping in the morning and again early in the after¬ 
noon, affording water to the roots moderately —a supply once a week 
will be sufficient. All superfluous laterals must be cut out, so as to 
afford the principal foliage the benefit of the autumn sun. Plants with 
fruits approaching ripeness should be kept dry, and a brisk heat main¬ 
tained with rather free ventilation, the temperature being kept at 65° 
at night, 70° to 75° by day, rising to 85° or 90° from sun heat, afford¬ 
ing a little air at the upper part of the roof whenever the weather is 
favourable. 
Cucumbers.— Place out the latest plants which are to afford a supply 
of fruit about the new year on ridges or hillocks, training with a single 
stem to the trellis, up which they may be allowed to advance about two- 
thirds, when the lead may be pinched. Those not having the conveni¬ 
ence of a Cucumber house may secure fair supplies of winter fruit by 
growing the plants in pots or box»s, training the growths near the glass 
over the pathways in stoves, fruiting Pine houses, or other heated struc¬ 
tures. Plants in bearing should not be overcropped or the fruit allowed 
to remain longer than it is fit to cut, removing all deformed fruit in a 
young state. Maintain a night temperature of 70° ; 5° less in the 
morning ; 75° by day, up to 85° with sun, admitting a little air at the 
top of the house at every favourable opportunity. The evaporation 
troughs should still be charged with liquid manure, and the floors 
damped about 8 A.M. and 4 P.M., dispensing with the syringe. Reduce 
the supply of water at the roots, but not so much as to cause flagging. 
A few horse droppings sprinkled on the beds occasionally will benefit 
the plants through the waterings and the ammonia given off. Keep the 
foliage thin and the glass clean, so as to secure thoroughly solidified 
growth. 
Strawberries in Pots. —The autumn and winter fruiting plants 
must, without further delay, be placed under glass and on shelves, so 
that they may enjoy a free circulation of air, ventilating so as to dispel 
damp, as the fertilisation of the flowers is not satisfactorily effected in a 
moist atmosphere. Those swelling and ripening the fruit in frames 
should have moderate ventilation, and though the fruits will swell and 
ripen in cold frames they swell better and the flavour is improved in a 
house where there is a moderate degree of heat, 50° to 55° as a minimum 
and 70° to 75° as a maximum by artificial means. 
Plants for next year’s fruiting are unusually late. They are neither 
so strong nor the crowns so well matured as the? should be at this time 
of year. Those intended for early forcing should be placed on a base 
impervious to worms in frames, or cold pits, exposing them fully to 
every gleam of sun, employing the lights only to ward off heavy rains, 
and at night .keep the remainder in a sunny situation, as they will 
require every ray of light and sun’s warmth to enable them to mature 
the crowns properly. 
Peaches and N ectarines. —Earliest House .—The trees are at rest, 
and very promising they are. The buds are not too large— a good sign, 
and, through the lights being removed some time, the borders have been 
thoroughly moistened, therefore there is no fear of the buds falling. 
The trees should be pruned, dressed with an insecticide, and the whole 
of the house thoroughly cleansed. The trees should also be tied to the 
trellis, everything forwarded so that a start can be made without delay 
when the proper time arrives. The lights must remain off until the 
time of closing the house, or, if the lights are fix d, which is a great 
mistake, the inside border must not lack moisture, and air must be given 
to the fullest possible extent. 
Se ond Early House .—The trees are casting the foliage. Our roof 
lights have been removed, as the trees have made stronger wood than 
usual, and that takes more time to mature than the moderately vigorous. 
The exposure of the trees has an invigorating tendency ; it insures per¬ 
fect rest, and the rains do much to free them of insects, besides soaking 
the borders. When the foliage is all down the necessary pruning, dress¬ 
ing with an insecticide and cleansing the house should be proceeded 
with, removing the surface soil down to the roots, and replacing it with 
fresh material, but not covering the roots deeper than 3 or 4 inches. In 
the case of fixed roof Ikhtsiwatering may be necessary ; under no circum¬ 
stances must the tr es be allowed to become dry at the roots. 
Midseason Houses .—The trees in these are just in the proper con¬ 
dition for lifting. It should be done with dispatch, all the materials 
being in readiness. Provide efficient drainage, shortening back any 
strong roots, and bringing any that are deep nearer the surface, em¬ 
ploying the compost moderatel / firm. Good loam, rather strong, with 
an admixture of a sixth of old mortar rubbish and a sprinkling of 
about a fortieth of crushed bones and a like proportion of charcoal, 
will grow Peaches and Nectarines perfectly. If the soil be light add 
a fourth of clayey marl, and if very strong a similar quantity of 
road scrapings. Avoid manure, except at the surface. Give a good 
watering and the trees will soon get established in the fresh compost. 
Trees judiciously treated at the roots whilst they have foliage seldom 
fail to set and stone the fruit satisfactorily. Borders that have the sur¬ 
face a soapy mass and it is not possible to remove it may have a good 
dressing of quicklime quite an inch thick, mixing it with the surface 
soil as deeply as the roots allow without much disturbance. 
Latest Houses. — Our last dish was gathered to-day (October 6th), but 
we have none later than Sea Eagle, a large, showy, and good flavoured 
fruit, with a juicy melting flesh. It is one of the best late sorts, devoid 
of the stringiness and mealiness too prevalent in some late Peaches. As 
the wood is not too ripe the house is almost closed by day so as to secure a 
good heat, there being of course enough ventilation to ensure a circula¬ 
tion. Any tn-es that have too gross wood should have a trench taken 
out as deep as the roots and about one-third the distance from the stem 
the trees cover of trellis, and left open for a fortnight, then filled in 
again firmly. 
I* 
;HE BEE-KEEPER. % 
PRACTICAL BEE-KEEPING.—No. 20. 
Some bee-keepers desire to increase the number of 
their stocks, and at the same time to obtain a moderate 
surplus of honey for sale or home consumption. Others 
are compelled by peculiarities of the season or by the 
absence of bee flowers at certain periods of the year to 
adopt a system suited to their special requirements. 
In a former article the circumstances which make the 
adoption of a moderate increase system not only advisable 
but actually essential to a profitable management have 
been discussed, and it is therefore only necessary now to 
point out the best method of taking less than an ordinary 
swarm from each stock. 
The principle of the proportionate increase system is 
to make two, three, or even more strong stocks each 
yield their quota of bees or comb, brood, and hooey. The 
