346 
JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 
[ October 20, 1887. 
the advantage of flavour over any late Grapes, but it requires more 
heat and time to finish it satisfactorily than Lady Downe’s. We have 
it in a house started in February with the berries black as jet to the 
stalk, and the quality equal to Black Muscat. Alicante, started in good 
time so as to finish not later than the middle of September, is capital in 
crop and appearance through size of bunch and finish. Gros Colman is 
perhaps the most profitable of Grapes to grow for a market supply. It 
is magnificent in appearance, the berries being splendid, the bunches 
compact, and it is an enormous cropper. The latter property is often 
taken advantage of to the injury of the crop in finish. It requires more 
time than any other Grape, and should be started early so as to have 
August and September to finish in. Gros Guillaume also requires a long 
time to colour and ripen thoroughly. It is not so compact in bunch as 
Gros Colman, but is larger, and on that account is very often over¬ 
cropped, in which case it is a poor Grape, as it is not even sweet, and is 
most unsatisfactory for keeping through the softness of its footstalks. 
If grown well Gros Guillaume is anything but coarse or inferior in 
flavour. Trebbiano when thoroughly ripened is good in flavour; and 
Syrian is by no means despicable, nor is Calabrian Raisin. All points 
considered we prefer them in the order given. The only other de¬ 
serving of note is Alnwick Seedline, an excellent Grape. West’s St. Peter's 
is too small in bunch for our modern ideas of a late Grape, otherwise it 
i3 an excellent table variety. 
Where late Grapes are not cultivated in quantity to maintain a supply 
to May preparations must be made for early forcing. The Vines having 
been pruned in September, the loose bark stripped off, the house 
may be cleansed, the border top-dressed, and the Vines dressed with a 
solution of softsoap, half pound to aigallon of water, brought to the con¬ 
sistency of cream with flowers of sulphur, adding, if there have been any 
scale, half a gill of spirits of turpentine, the composition being equally 
effective against mealy bug, killing all it touches. The whole being in 
readiness as advised in former calendars, cover the outside border with 
leaves and stable litter, so as to warm the border preparatory to apply¬ 
ing fire heat. If there be the convenience for making up a good bed 
inside the house of Oak or Beech leaves, with about a third of stable 
litter, it will greatly facilitate the Vines breaking, and be more beneficial 
to them than fire heat alone, therefore have them in readiness for placing 
in the house at the early part of next month. Vines, however, to pro¬ 
duce ripe fruit in late March or early April are best grown in pots, as 
stated a former calendar, selecting early sorts, such as Buckland Sweet¬ 
water, Foster’s Seedling, and White Frontignan in white Grapes ; and 
of black, Black Hamburgh, Mill Hill Hamburgh, Royal Ascot, and 
Madresfield Court. They should now be in position preparatory to 
starting them early next month. 
Benovating Vim Borders. —There is no doubt that Vines thrive for 
an almost indefinite period in a soil suited to their requirements, and 
where they have a good extent of rooting area, as may be seen in many 
places where the Vines were originally planted to cover a large area. 
Vines mostly past have their roots confined to limited areas, and the 
natural outcome is that the soil becomes less favourable as a rooting 
medium if not defective in aliment, hence the desirability of renewing 
the soil or such portion of it as will secure as many active feeders as 
possible. There is probably nothing equal to fresh soil as an encourager 
of Vine roots. 
Where Vines are unsatisfactory no time should be lost as soon as the 
leaves have effected their functions to the extent of perfecting the buds 
and wood, and whilst they are still upon the Vines, in removing the 
soil down to the roots and picking it from amongst them, so as to displace 
as much of it as possible with fresh. In the case of the border being 
very unsatisfactory and the roots few and deep, it will be necessary to 
remove all the soil and renew the whole border, commencing with 
the drainage, which should be clear 9 inches to 1 foot thick, having a 
layer of fine material at the top, nothing answering better than old mortar 
rubbish, a 3-inch thickness over 9 inches of brickbats, &c. The drainage 
must have a tile drain under to carry off the superfluous water. Two 
feet depth of soil is ample, and the roots should be laid out evenly in the 
top foot, encouraging those from the collar by laying any that proceed 
therefrom only just beneath the surface. The whole should be made 
firm, and the compost moderately dry. If the roots are inside and 
outside, one part may be done one year, and the other the next without 
any danger of loss of crop, care being taken to preserve all the roots 
possible, and to keep them from the drying influences of the atmosphere 
whilst the work is in progress. Mulch the surface with a little short 
material, preferably fresh horse droppings, and cover outside borders with 
a good thickness of leaves or other protective material. As regards soil 
good turfy loam is best, but any ameliorated soil will grow good Grapes. 
Preference should be given to medium textured soil, that overlying 
clay being better than that overlying sand. The most suitable is a 
rather strong loam overlying the limestone formations and interspersed 
with flints. 
PLANT HOUSES. 
Begonias. —Such Begonias as manicata and hydrocotylifolia must be 
removed from cold frames, for they are too damp for them, and if 
allowed to remain much longer their large foliage will be injured. 
They will do very well for some time in a cool house provided the air 
is kept dry and the plants watered with care. While under these con¬ 
ditions they should be kept rather dry, but not to such an extent as to 
injure their roots. No more water should be thrown about the house 
than is necessary when the plants are watered, which should be done 
in the morning. After a spell of dull daps it may be necessary to use a 
ittle fire heat in order to expel moisture from the atmosphere. 
Celosias .—The majority of the stock prepared for autumn and early 
winter decoration will be sturdy plants with their plumes well developed, 
unless they have been hurried in their last stages. When necessary to 
push them forward in heat they soon run up tall, and are soft, which 
necessitates great care when they are removed to cooler quarters. Plants 
in this condition must be screened from cold draughts, or their foliage 
will fail, and if overwatered they quickly damp off. Those brought 
forward under cool conditions are far less liable to suffer from damp. 
These will be safe in any structure where the night temperature does 
not fall below 50°. When they require water apply it only in a tepid 
state. If any of these plants are in a backward condition, grow them 
close to the glass in a temperature of 00°, with a good circulation of 
air day and night, which will prevent their lengthening too quickly. 
Cyclamen. —Where it is necessary to keep these plants in cold frames 
for some time longer they must be wintered with care and freely ven¬ 
tilated, or the foliage is liable to become spotted, and the flower buds to 
damp off. Where practicable remove them to a light airy structure, 
where the atmospheric conditions can be regulated to suit them. The 
main stock of these plants will not require any artificial heat for some 
time to come. If a few plants are required in flower remove the most 
forward to a shelf close to the glass, where a temperature of 55° is main¬ 
tained. Give a little air day- and night to prevent the foliage drawing. 
Water carefully, but do not allow them to suffer by an insufficient 
supply. Weak stimulants may be given to all that have filled their pots 
with roots. 
Heliotropes. —Plants that have been grown outside and housed some 
time ago will soon come into flower in a temperature of 55° to 60°. If 
they are to continue flowering they must be kept in the latter to keep 
them growing ; if they once cease growing they will also cease flowering. 
Place young plants that are now rooted into 3-inch pots, and grow them 
on a shelf for a time in an intermediate temperature until they are well 
established, then harden them, and place on a shelf where the tempe¬ 
rature is about 45° at night. Cuttings for early spring flowering may 
still be rooted, but they must be encouraged to grow until they have 
formed three or four shoots. 
Petunias.— Petunias established in small pots before the winter are 
invaluable for flowering early in the season for conservatory decoration. 
Cuttings rooted now and left in the cutting pots will yield plenty of 
good cuttings early in the season for succession, and are much better 
and easier managed than old plants. 
Fuchsias. —Those that have flowered may be gradually dried and 
placed in a cool airy house to rest; a shed will do very well. Others 
that have been outside for some weeks since they ceased flowering may 
be dried and given the same position. Do not store them away in a wet 
condition. Place those that were rooted some time ago into 3-inch pots, 
and store them on a shelf where they can be kept slowly moving during 
the winter. Others just rooted may be placed into thumbs, and when 
established give the same position as for those in 3-inch pots. 
Zonal Pelargoniums. —Place those rooted towards the end of July, 
and that have since been pinched, into 5-inch pots. Pot them firmly to 
prevent a soft growth, and place them on the greenhouse shelf for the 
present. Water carefully until well established, and then keep them on 
the dry side until the end of the year. They must be kept until practi¬ 
cally at a standstill, but rather encourage them to grow slowly than 
allow them to go back by too low a temperature and too much water. 
Shading. —All shading should now be removed, the blinds being 
taken off the houses, dried, and stored for the winter. The shading that 
has been employed over Ferns and cool Orchids will not be needed any 
longer. This year we have gradually dispensed with the shading much 
earlier than usual, and the plants look better for the admission of more 
light. Where a good number of blinds are employed these should be 
labelled, stating to which house they belong and the side they are 
arranged for. This saves confusion when they are wanted again. 
Prot ction for Chrysanthemums. —Where,an attempt is made to have 
the flowers of these plants during January and February, it is important 
that they be left outside as long as possible. To insure their safety they 
must be protected from frost. Any rude lean-to or span-roofed struc¬ 
ture will answer the purpose well. The pots may be plunged to keep 
them from being knocked in all directions by heavy winds. The sides 
of the structure can be protected with mats, and the top with canvas 
blinds. The latter can be drawn up early on fine mornings and the 
mats removed. During severe stormy weather they can be kept on. 
This light protection will be ample to protect them from injury until 
near Christmas, unless severe weather sets in exceptionally early. In 
some seasons they can be kept outside very late without the slightest 
protection, but one frost may upset the whole work of the season, and 
therefore it is necessary that provision for their protection should be 
made. It should not be used until an occasion arises. When the whole 
or nearly the whole of the plants are placed inside at one time the 
majority are in flower all at once, and do not therefore prove so useful 
as if brought forward in batches according to the demand. With atten¬ 
tion in this respect there is no difficulty in having a supply of these 
flowers until the middle or end of February. Place some at once where 
they can have tiffany placed over them at night in case of frost ; it 
will be found that many of the plants can be kept outside fully a month 
or six weeks longer. This will make at least two or three weeks’ differ¬ 
ence in the time of flowering. 
THE FLOWER GARDEN AND PLEASURE GROUND. 
Clearing the Bcds.—Xfc. have experienced sharp frosts much earlier 
than last year ; then we had Dahlias, Begonias, Gaillardias, l’elargo- 
