&70 
JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 
[ O«tobar 17, 1607. 
roots give them clear soot water occasionally, and apply a little artificial 
manure to the surface of the soil. These plants are very subject to 
aphides, and fumigations of tobacco smoke turn the foliage yellow, 
rendering it useless, besides destroying the appearance of the plants. 
When these insects make their appearance they can easily be destroyed 
by dipping the plants in a weak solution of Fir tree oil, Fowler’s 
insecticide, or any others that individual cultivators may prefer. 
Vallota purpurea .—This is perhaps one of the worst treated plants 
in cultivation, for it is generally accorded some makeshift position when 
the weather compels protection inside. It will live in almost any posi¬ 
tion and with any treatment, but it is worthy of the best care and atten¬ 
tion. It is as useful and equally as beautiful as any of the newer forms 
of Amaryllis. What can be more beautiful than a single bulb pro¬ 
ducing fifteen of its bright scarlet flowers on two spikes fully 2 feet 
high ? To keep this plant in good condition give it a light position in 
any structure where frost is excluded, and water it with care, but never 
allow it to suffer by the want of supplies, for any attempt at drying it 
off means injury, if not ruin. 
Imantopliyl ems .—The whole of these plants should have completed 
their growth, and may occupy any cool position provided they^are not 
overwatered at their roots. They should be kept on the dry side, only 
giving sufficient water to keep th*-m fresh and plump. If they are too 
moist at their roots the tips of their leaves will go brown and their ap¬ 
pearance will be sadly disfigured. 
Kalosanthes .—Place these on a shelf close to the glass in the green¬ 
house ; in fact, any cool house where they can be protected from frost, 
which is all that they need. This is necessary to keep them from grow¬ 
ing, that is those that have had a clear season’s growth. Water these 
plants carefully, give them no more than will keep their leaves and 
stems fresh. 
Early Bulb *.—Roman Hyacinths and early Narcissus that have been 
removed from the ashes and have their foliage green by gradual expo¬ 
sure to light may now be brought gently forward in a temperature of 
50° to 55°. Start them gently at first, for nothing is gained by hurry¬ 
ing them. 
Washing the Glass .—If this has not been done inside lose no time, 
and well wash the woodwork in addition. Whitewash walls and make 
every portion of the house clean, so that they will be as light as possible 
for the occupants. It is surprising how much better plants do in houses 
that are rendered sweet and clean at short intervals, and how much 
lighter they are after this process has been completed. Not only is it 
necessary to wash the glass inside, but it should be thoroughly done, 
outside after the removal of the blinds. In the neighbourhood of towns 
it is important that they be washed outside two or three times during 
the winter, for they quickly become covered with soot, and heavy rains 
fail to remove it. Clean all the houses inside before placing the plants 
'under cover. If the inside is done the outside glass can be washed from 
time to time as convenient, so as to bring the two operations to a close 
as early as possible. If more attention was paid to cleaning houses 
thoroughly two or three times a year there would quickly be a marked 
improvement in the health and condition of plants generally. 
Winter Blinds .—Thick canvas blinds for the protection of warm and 
intermediate houses are invaluable during cold weather, both from an 
economical point of view and for the well-being of Orchids and many 
other plants that are suspended only a short distance from the glass. 
Th y prevent the escape of heat to a large extent, the house can be kept 
warmer by employing them without having to resort to extra firing, 
■which in very windy weather becomes necessary, even when the various 
structures are well supplied with pipes. Much injury is done to valuable 
plants by cold air striking upon them during the winter through the 
laps of glass, which can be prevented by the employment of thick blinds. 
These can be fixed at any time when convenient before the approach of 
cold weather. 
a 
iE BEE-KEEPER. 
vjk 
PRACTICAL BEE-KEEPING.—No. 21. 
A small swarm is never very profitable in the hands 
of the ordinary race of bee-keepers. A large swarm under 
the same management will give great results and large 
profits where the season and locality are favourable to the 
adoption of the swarming system of management. If these 
two small swarms issue or are taken from our stocks it is 
better to unite the two rather than to hive each swarm 
separately. If, again, built-out combs and a few frames 
of brood, taken from a stock well able to afford the loss, 
are given to a small swarm good results maybe expected ; 
but if no such combs are available, then in ordinary cases 
it is a wiser management to unite all small swarms with 
the least possible delay. 
At swarming time bees are generally, but not by any 
means invariably, well disposed both to man and bees. 
The usual precautions which must be adopted in many 
cases when uniting stocks need not in the case of swarms 
be practised. When a swarm issues, and the bee-keeper 
sees that it does not contain sufficient bees to become a 
profitable stock unless managed upon different lines to 
those generally followed in the apiary, he hives the swarm 
in the usual way, and gives the usual small amount of 
syrup, proceeding in every way as if the swarm so hived 
were of greater weight and would of itself be expected to 
form a stock. In the space of a few days another small 
swarm will perhaps issue, or possibly he sees an oppor¬ 
tunity of purchasing a small swarm at a cheap rate. 
Upon obtaining this swarm he hives it in a sleep and 
places the skep in close proximity to the hive in which the 
swarm to which he wishes to unite it is located. When 
the bees are settled in the hive, the skep being carefully 
raised and held a foot or more above a sheet fastened to 
the floorboard of the hive containing the swarm, and 
gradually sloping in a gentle decline to the ground, where 
it may be held fast by a couple of bricks placed upon the 
corners, he suddenly jerks the skep containing the swarm 
down to within an inch or two of the sheet, and then 
“pulls up short.” Nearly every bee will at once be 
thrown from the skep on to the sheet and floorboard, and 
a few more shakes will effectually dislodge those bees 
which seem more determined than the rest to remain in 
the skep. In a minute or so a general movement ending 
in a continual march towards the entrance of the hive 
will be perceived, and in a very short space of time every 
bee will have disappeared within the portals of the new 
home. 
The sooner the union is effected after the issue of the 
swarm which it is intended to unite to the swarm which 
was hived a few days or a week previous the better. The 
secret of the good reception accorded by the located 
swarm to the homeless swarm is that the bees of the 
latter swarm are well supplied with those “ material com¬ 
forts ” which bees never affect to despise, whether gained 
by their own hard labour or by the distressing toil of the 
colonies. The latest period at which the union should 
be attempted in this easy method is the evening of the 
day of issue of the second swarm, and, if possible, the 
union should be effected as soon as the bees are knitted in 
the skep. 
Certain bee-keepers think, and act on their ideas, 
that the safest time to unite swarms is at dusk. It may 
be successful, but for a bee-keeper who has any regard 
either for the bees themselves or for his personal comfort 
to follow this practice always seems to me surprising. At 
dusk bees crawl and rarely if ever rise on the wing; there 
is a time just before dusk when bees may easily and with 
comfort be united ; but if evening draws quickly on, as it 
frequently does, the bee-keeper finds that his clothes are 
well dotted over with gorged bees, which, though not 
desiring to sting perhaps, are compelled in self-defence to 
make their presence felt. Many bees are lost in this way, 
many stings are received by the manipulator, and nothing 
is gained. This warning refers more especially to uniting 
driven bees in September, when the evening shades draw 
quickly on, and the interval between light and darkness 
is very short. 
It need hardly be said that when uniting bees in 
September to established stocks a somewhat different 
plan to the one used when dealing with swarms must be 
followed, but it will be more useful and simple to con¬ 
sider the difference in the methods at a future time 
when “ winter preparations ” are being discussed. 
