372 
JOURNAL' OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 
[ October 27, 18 l 7. 
the bees, for they might die in winter or spring, and before discovered 
the other bees may have carried off the remaining stores into their 
hives, which would be certain to establish the disease in them ; in fact, 
it is just in this manner in springtime that the disease is mostly 
propagated. The only advice I can give is to kill the bee3 at night, bury 
or burn every one, extract the honey and wax from the combs, and treat 
the hive, &c., as before directed. Keep a sharp eye on all the bees in 
your district ; of everyone who keeps bees particularly inquire after 
those stocks that have not swarmed, for they are the ones to suspect, 
also all that are weak ; a little neighbourly help or advice in this 
respect is well repaid. 
It must not be supposed that the disease only exists in Hallamshire ; 
in fact, I question whether there is a district in the whole of the British 
Isles that is free from it. By most it is mistaken for the offensive form 
of foul brood, and treated according to the directions for it. Hence 
they never succeed, and at once condemn the Cheshire cure and all 
other cures, and go in for total cremation, never dreaming that they 
have ..quite another disease. In my system of treatment nothing of 
value is destroyed, the combs yield their value in wax, and the bees build 
fresh ones for nothing if honey is to be gathered ; and I can recommend 
it with the greatest confidence, as I have never known it to fail. True, 
my success only extends over two years, but then I can point to fifty 
healthy stocks w'here formerly diseased ones stood. 
I have been very diffident about making this disease known for 
several reasons, one being I expected Mr Cheshire to publish it; another 
one, I expected as soon as I did do so, I should be deprived of all the 
credit in connection with the work. In this I have not been mistaken, 
as I gave a short account of the disease and how to cure it in The Bee- 
keeper's Record for July last, which would enable anyone to recognise 
and cure it. The result was, the editor of the Brill h Bee Journal in 
less than two weeks after published an article in his journal explaining 
the disease, its appearance, gave directions to cure it, which I know will 
always fail, says he has long known of it, names it Baccillus minor, 
and refrains from saying that anyone has given another way founded on 
years of patient experiments and proved in results to be right. Now, 
as a matter of fact, Mr. Covven has been a recognised authority on foul 
brood for years, he has written much on it; therefore if he previously 
knew or had distinctly noticed the disease I here refer to as being dif¬ 
ferent from the offensive form, then would he not have mentioned it ? 
As its discoverer, I claim the right to give it a popular name—viz., 
“ odourless foul brood,” and I call on Mr. Cheshire to give it a scientific 
one.— Hallamshire Bee-keeper. 
c 0 ° All correspondence should be directed either to “ The 
Editor” or to “ The Publisher.” Letters addressed to Dr. 
Hogg or members of the staff often remain unopened un¬ 
avoidably. We request that no one will write privately 
to any of our correspondents, as doing so subjects them to 
unjustifiable trouble and expense. 
Correspondents should not mix up on the same sheet questions 
relating to Gardening and those on Bee subjects, and. should 
never send more than two or three questions at once. All 
articles intended for insertion should be written on one side of 
the paper only. We cannot reply to questions through the 
post, and we do not undertake to return rejected communica¬ 
tions. 
NAMING FRUIT.—The attention of senders of fruit to be named, 
is respectfully directed to the intimation near the foot of page 373. 
Unhealthy Eucharises (Weybridge ).—We have examined the Eacharis 
bulbs with great cam ineile and out, and though they present all the 
symptoms of being attacked by’ the mite we are unable to find the enemy. 
It is possible your plants may have sustained a check that has arrested 
growth and incited decay by some treatment to which they have been sub- 
ected, but at the same timi we are not satisfied that they have not been 
jattacked by the pest, though the microscope does not reveal its presence in 
the examples that we have carefully examined. 
White I'is (A. A .).—Iris florentina is one of the best free flowering 
white Irises for growing in clump3 in the open ground, and the flowers 
am sweet Soil free from stagnant water and made fertile to the 
depth of 18 inches will grow the plant) well. If poor mix well decayed 
manure with it, and wood ashes ; if very heavy add leaf mould and gritty 
matter freely; if light add strong loam. German Irises are of easy 
culture, and will grow well in any soil that would produce a good crop of 
Potatoes. You may plant at once, and cover the ground over the roots 
with cocoa nut fibre refuse, or a layer of littery or partially decayed 
manure. 
Asparagus Beds (A Country Parson ).—It will not benefit the old beds 
very materially to put on the seajsand and dig it in as deeply as the roots 
allow. The best plan would be to leave them as they are, relying on what 
can be effected by manuring an 1 1 quid manure in the summer for a pro¬ 
duction of heads until the young beds, which we strongly advise you to 
make, are in bearing, us : ng the sand for mixing with the top foot of soil, 
and in these plant the seedling plants in early April, or so soon in spring 
as they make 1 or 2 inches of growth. The fresh beds will come into bear¬ 
ing in the second or third year from planting, when the old beds may be 
destroyed. We will consider your suggestion. 
Gooseberry Cuttings (Amateur). —Th'se may be made and inserted as 
soon as the leaves fall or can be easily rubbed from the shoots. The 
cu tings should be as strong as passible, firm, and about 12 or 14 inches 
long. All the buds should be pruned clean away, with the exception of 
the toumost four, previously to plotting. The cuttings may be put in 
about 6 inches asunder, in rows a foot a art. By the next autumn there 
will be two or three good shoots on each cutting, and these must be 
pruned down to about fo ir eyes or buds on each shoot. Unless par¬ 
ticularly wanted to plant in their final stations, they should remain 
another season in the cutting beds ; they will then be strong bushes, and 
deserving a permanent place 
Cherry Leaves Blistered ( Somerset V—The leaves are attacked by a 
leaf-raining inse t, the larva of a minute motli, pro' ably Argyromyges 
clerckella, which is much small r than the Pear tree blister moth, Tinea 
clerckella, that is cause of the black blotche) that often appear on the 
leaves in the autumn. In the leaves you have sent eggs were deposited 
some time ago, and these hatching, the larvae penetrated the under cuticle, 
eating the parenchyma and tunnelling through the leaf, leaving the two 
surfaces untouched—at least, until the miners emerge in the autumn. 
They’ pass the winter in the ebrysa'is state. All the leaves of infested 
trees should be burned and the surface soil removed for some distance 
from the stems, a good dressing of soot given, and fresh soil added. 
The Chrysanthemum Leaf Miner ( South London). —The ‘‘marks in 
the leaves ” are caused by th: larvae of a small fly, Tryptera artemisiae, also 
known as Acidia ar^misiae, and Tephritis artemisise. The eggs are de¬ 
posited in the leaves, and the resulting larvte burrows within their 
interior, eating out the substance in the same way tint the grubs do in 
Celery leaves, these being the larvte of Tephritis onopordinis. The affected 
Chrysanthemum leaves should be gathered and burned, or the enemy will 
emerge, change into the chrysalis state, pass the winter in the soil, escape in 
the winged form in early summer, and again attack the plants. If these 
cannot be grown in another and distant part of the garden next year, the 
ashes on which the pots have been arranged should be scraped off, and a 
fresh thick layer provided for the next plants. 
Insects Destroying Cyclamen (W. B.). — The BDfc T es now sent has 
no king wbatev r to do with the inst ets which gave you t’ouble previously. 
It is a beetle in the larval condition, one of the weevils ca'led the red- 
legged, rr Oti rhvnrhu) tenib ico us, allied to the more common Vine 
weevil. The specimens sent are nearly adult, and after passing the winter 
as pupae, they emerge as beetles during the spring, and gnaw the buds, 
shoots, and young leaves of the choicer fruit trees, such as the Peach and 
Apricot. Subsequently the females deposit eggs on the earth, or beneath it, 
and the maggots feed upon the roots of the Currant, Raspberry, and other 
shrubs, also upon vegetables and flowers, and especially those of a succu¬ 
lent nature. The difficulty of dealing with them arises from the fact that 
their presence is often unknown till the mischief is well nigh accompfished, 
bat quassia water is said to kill them, also diluted atnmoniacal liquor. As 
we have previously suggested, all compost you use for potting should be 
sufficiently scorched to destroy all insect life, and the fertility of the soil 
will be increased rather than impaired by the process. 
Perennials for Town Garden (Brixton). —You give no idea of the 
number you require. The following have b®n found to thrive satisfactorily : 
Alvssum saxatile, Ajuga alpina. Agrostemma coronaria vars.. Adonis ver- 
nalis, Alstromeria aurantiaca, Iberis saxatilis, Iris ret'culata, I. germanica ; 
Liliums colcliicum, randidum, Martagon, chalcedonicum. and lancifolium 
vars.; Hepatica angulosa, H. triloba in variety, Lychnis Haageana and its 
variety splendens, Lythrum roseum superbum, Mimulus roseus pallidus, 
Preonia plhiflora and officinalis, which are splendid for town gardens ; her¬ 
baceous Phloxes, Poltmonium caeruleum ; Primula acaulis, double lilac, 
purple, crimson, white, and sulphur varieties; P. auricula vars. : Pulmonaria 
officinalis, Pvrethrum vars., Salvia nemorosa,Tradescantia virginica, Spiraea 
fillipendula, Thalictrum anemonoides plenum. Trollius europaeus, T. napelli- 
folius, and T. asiaticus, Tritoma Burchelli, T. uvnria and its variety glau- 
cescens, Tusrilago Farfara variegata, Vinca elegantissima, Hesperia matron- 
alis floro-pleno, Geum ccccineum grandiflorum, Fritillaria imperialis, 
Galanthus nivalis and G. plicatus, Erigeron grandiflorus, Draba aizoides, 
Dodecatheon Meadia, Dielytra sp ctabilis ; Pinks, Cirna'ions, and Picotees; 
Delphinium formesum, D. Belladonna, D. alope uroides, Couvallaria 
majafis, Chrysanthemums, Cheiranthus Marshalli, Campanula aggregata, 
C. pulla, C.carpotica, Aubrietiadeltoidea grandiflora, Aniirrhinum9, Colum¬ 
bines, Anemenes, and Arabis albida. 
Oleandei-3 not Flowering (E. Mossley). —According to your description 
of them the wood of your plants has not been ripened. It is quite true the 
plants require much water when growing, but they also need rest. The 
Oleand r naturally is a marsh plant arid a dry-baked mud plant alternately. 
It blooms uniformly at the points of the shoots, made and rip ned the 
previous season. These fac's furnish the rationale of successful culture. 
Any light soil may be used wh<n the plant is young, hut w’:en estab¬ 
lished the soil should be good stiff loam, with a fair portion of decayed covr- 
dung. The treatment, however, is more important than the soil. Here, 
for instance, is a plant cut down, and commencing to grow in March; 
encourage it as much as possible with water and a fair amount of heat. 
Thin our, the young shoots, so as to let those left have plenty of air and 
light. No stoppmg of shoots intended to bloom next season must be 
thought about. Wherever grown, harden off so as to g6t the plants out cf 
doors by the beginning of August, and for a few days keep them in a shady 
place; then full in the srrn ; watering as they require it. By the middle of 
September place them against a south wall, and give not a drop more water 
than will keep the leaves from flagging. Take means to prevent their being 
