378 
JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND vOTTAGE GARDENER. 
[ November 8, 1887. 
rather the germs of the disease may he first brought into activity and 
quickly developed with any change in the weather. After it has once 
started it may only be visible on a few leaves, but has been sufficiently 
long to scatter its spores on the foliage of many of the plants. This 
being so a week’s damp sunless weather would bring them into life, and 
the results might not be visible for a short time afterwards. How easy 
and natural to conclude that the attack was due to the cold damp con¬ 
dition of the atmosphere. I think it may safely be concluded that those 
plants with feeble constitutions are most likely to suffer. Th j y are most 
susceptible to the disease, and would be the first to become checked by 
drought or other causes, while those with strong constitutions with hard 
leathery foliage generally escape. 
It is much easier for those who grow only a few. plants to arrest 
disease on its first appearance, and carry into effect remedies to prevent 
it when the cause is that of drought. It can be destroyed by syringing, 
directly it is visible, the whole of the plants with sulphur and water. One 
good handful or a 3-incli potful may be mixed and stirred into each two 
gallons of water that may be needed. If done directly it is visible 
sulphur may be dusted on the affected parts, and if left on for a few 
days will soon kill the mildew. The whole of the sulphur can after¬ 
wards be washed from the foliage with clean water. This is not all, for 
if the cause has been dryness it will quickly appear again, unless the 
plants are thoroughly watered and the surface of the soil mulched with 
manure or other material to prevent evaporation. Mulching on light 
shallow soils, or to avoid watering, should be done early in the season 
while the ground is moist. This is the best and most effectual method. 
In some seasons the mulching would be better off, especially on heavy 
soils, if the season proves a damp cold one. Next to mulching the soil 
should be constantly stirred with the hoe, so that there is a good layer of 
light fine soil on the surface. This is beneficial for light soils, and of greater 
importance in the case of heavy ones that are liable to crack seriously, 
and the moisture be evaporated to a greater depth than would r ally be 
the case from light soils, which seldom crack to such an extent as to 
bring serious consequences. Such methods are altogether useless when 
the disease arises from the opposite extreme, or a cold saturated atmo¬ 
sphere. The mildew may be kept in check by the use of insecticides, 
but it is impossible to exterminate it. Although large growers may have 
the advantage over amateurs and those who grow a few plants by their 
superior knowledge of their culture and requirements, the latter have 
also advantages. The suggestions pointed out are not really practicable 
for large growers ; to carry them out to be effectual would entail too 
great an outlay, which in the present state of trade, and the price for 
which they are bound to dispose of their plants would leave them with¬ 
out profit. I am, of course, alluding to those who grow for sale. The 
same holds good to a certain extent with large amateur growers. 
Your correspondent further asks for advice respecting the “ pruning 
of Roses now” that have been “badly affected by mildew.” The 
current season’s wood may he pruned back to within 18 inches of the 
startiug point. The prunings should be burnt, and the leaves most 
affected may be removed and destroyed in the same manner. The 
remainder of the foliage should be carefully gathered up, or it may be 
picked off in the course of a month and also burnt. Do not fork the 
leaves beneath the soil, for Nature has provided this pest with a 
covering that will protect its spores from destruction by rain and frost. 
The genial weather of May and June will cause the germs to issue 
forth, which often germinate in the air anl finally settle upon any prey 
that is in a suitable state upon which they can arow and spread. 
There is another aspect to this matter, and large growers, especially 
those who grow for sale, have an advantage over amateurs as well as 
many professional garden rs. The latter are often so limited for space 
that the plants occupy the same ground for many years, and frequently 
are undisturbed. Nurserymen who grow tens of thousands proceed very 
differently. A change of soil is without doubt as beneficial to the Rose 
as any other plant, in fact I cannot think it is an exception to ati 
almost general rule. Even if the plants could not be changed to fresh 
positions they could be lifted at intervals of three years, and the soil 
well and deeply worked with fresh supplies of manure incorporated, or 
a little fresh soil, which in many cases would perhaps ba preferable. 
This would do more to keep the soil in a sweet fertile state, and thus 
assist wonderfully in retaining health and vi.our to resist attacks of 
mildew. There can be no doubt that plants growing in soils that are 
deeply worked resist the disease much longer, in fact are less liable to 
he attacked than those growing on shallow soils. The nurserymen have 
the plants on the same soil for only two years, the stocks are planted on 
well and deeply worked well drained land as a rule, and the second 
"season afterwards they are disposed of, others being prepared on a 
different piece of land. How different is this from the system that 
prevails in not only small but many large gardens. Again, the plants 
of large growers have always youth and vigour on their side, and thus 
grow with greater strength and luxuriance than many of the plants to 
be found in gardens that are old and practically worn out. Solitary 
plants or small beds are more liable to suffer by drought than the large 
flats grown by the trade. They are surrounded by drying influences, 
and suffer proportionally in consequence. When large quantities are 
grown together the plants shade the ground, and thus they prevent rapid 
evaporation from the soil. There is greater need when a few only are 
grown for mulching than when large numbers are grown together and 
practically cover the ground.—W m. Bardxey. 
A year or two ago I advocated in the Journal the use of Fir tree 
oil as a preventive of green fly and mildew on Roses. My experience 
since confirms my estimation of it, until now I am almost inclined to 
think that those who continue to suffer much from these pests eithei 
desire, or at least deserve, to do so. I aim at prevention rather than 
cure ; and by the use of Hughes’ spray-distributor on Teas under glass, 
and the syringe or a fine-rosed watering pan in the garden, 1 find the oil 
quite satisfactory. I use it about the strength recommended—if any- 
thing a little over it. 1 now seldom use soap and quassia, the othei 
being both cheaper and more readily prepared. I hose who have not 
given the oil a trial should do so, if they desire a preventive, efficacious, 
easily applied, and pleasant to use. I had occasion lately, after a few 
weeks’ absence, to use it as a remedy with the usual good effect. In re¬ 
potting my Auriculas I dip them in a somewhat weaker mixture. My 
plants are too well watched for aphides to get a footing, but the oil seems 
very distasteful, and I use the spray now and then when the bloom is 
over. I have seen the mealed foliage a little browned by the mixture 
when stronger than prescribed in the directions for use. In the case or 
Roses that are persistently attacked by mildew I agree with Mr. Gilmoui 
that the best treatment is to get rid of them, and I act accordingly. The 
results from such sorts never repay the trouble they give. This year, 
Yiolette Bouyer and Lady Mary Fitzwilliam, the latter both under glass- 
and in the garden, have been with me the most inclined to it. I would 
be sorry to part with either, and hope they will mend their ways and 
retain their place. If not, off they go.—A Northern Amateur. 
VIOLAS. 
I AM sorry to find the subject was not continued last week, but 
perhaps Mr. Jenkins is waiting for my reply before he contributes 
anything more. Our subject was the Viola, its properties and classifi¬ 
cation ; but as Mr. Dean has so well defintd the show Pansy, I will 
leave the properties of the Viola also in his able and experienced hands, 
and give my ideas regarding its classification. The Viola has now be¬ 
come very popular, and during the last few years some fine varieties- 
have been raised, but these again I am convinced will soon be super¬ 
seded by varieties of finer form, and with markings and edgings as 
perfect as possible. It is with this object in view that we wish to 
have Violas classed, and we are inclined to favour Mr. Dean’s opinion 
that the time has arrived for such an arrangement. Mr. Jenkins, in, 
his communication, page 323, defines the characteristics of the Viola,, 
and agrees with us that a line of distinction should be drawn, and solves 
the problem thus, “ Calyx with unequal sepals.” a character not allowed 
in the florist Tansy ; but I fail to see how such a description can guide- 
us, for in the order Violaeeae we have in one genus six species, which, 
may be defined in the same way, and I think if Mr. Jenkins were to 
examine a Pansy he would find the calyx, sepals, stamens, anthers, 
and capsule very similar to what he has described. But he goes on to 
say if we rigidly pursue such a course we shall exclude some pf our 
best Violas, and asks how we are to establish such a rule. I, answer. 
In the same way as Mr. Glenny defined the properties of the Rose, the 
Carnation, or any other flower. We shall exclude none of the fine 
varieties Mr. Jenkins enumerates, but simply arrange them in two 
families as suggested by Mr. Dean, page 337—viz., bedding Pansies 
and Violas. These again I would divide into classes, as^ follows:— 
First, bedding Pansies, which would consist of class 1, Selfs, where 
Archie Grant would find a place ; class 2, Picotee edged, including 
Merchiston Castle ; class 3, feathered or clouded varieties, comprising 
Mrs. Baxter. I have chosen these popular varieties as examples in their 
respective classes, and which I consider bedding Pansies. Of course 
we shall have all the colours represented in each class ; for instance 
class 1 will be formed of purple, white, yellow, or any other coloured 
seifs ; class 2 in the same way, only the Picotee edge must be bright 
and well defined ; the same in class 3. Violas I would arrange in tlje 
same order—viz., class 1, self, in which Pilrig Park or Bullion would 
form an example ; class 2, Picotee edged, where Skylark or Goldfinch, 
would be represented ; class 3, feathered or flaked varieties, including 
Sejour or some of our new varieties. 
The preceding remarks are only our own opinion, and are open to- 
criticism. I know there are many who will not agree with them, but 
we shall be pleased to learn their opinions through the Journal. For 
instance, in the two recent communications Mr. Jenkins and Mr. Dean 
are not quite agreed. Mr. Jrnkins would like to retain Archie Grant 
among the Violas, while Mr. Dean would give it a place amoitgst the 
bedding Pansies, and also thinks it a fit companion for Bronze Queen, 
Lady Diana, or Mrs. Baxter, but these minor points I feel sure will soon 
be overcome. Now, with regard to the exhibition table. We must ask 
the secretaries of the different Pansy societi-s to help us, and give a 
special or extra prize for bedding Pansies, independent of their prizes 
for Violas. Such a prize would greatly facilitate keeping the two 
families separate, for I*think nothing seems more absurd (.from a florist’s 
point of view) than to see a stand of V iolas containing two or three 
bunches of bedding Tansies. Why not introduce a bunch or two of 
Viola odorata as well ? Botanically speaking, they would be quite as- 
much in place. Again, I wonder what some of the judges would say to 
a stand of II.P. Roses with one or two China or Hybrid Tea blooms in 
it. I fancy they would pass it, and give an inferior stand of H.P. the 
first place.' I would enforce the same rule with Violas. 
The object of a classification is to place together those plants which 
resemble each other in the greatest number of important particulars, and 
thus to facilitate their study and assist the memory. Two systems 
have been adopted by different naturalists in their efforts to classify 
plants. Natural and artificial systems begin with the whole vegetable 
