438 
JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 
[ November 17. 1887. 
The Hull Challenge Cup ( B . L.).— You -will find from a letter in 
another column that there is what you term a “ deliverance from the 
dilemma,” and it is therefore not necessary to publish your communication. 
Books (Lux ).—“Hardy Florists’ Flowers,” by Mr. James Douglap, will 
no doubt give all the information you require. It can be obtained from the 
author, Great Gearies Gardens, Ilford, Essex. (E. II.). —There are few 
books of the character you require, and to be successful in growing either 
plants, flowers, fruits, or vegetables for market a considerable amount of 
practical experience is needed. You would, however, find some useful hints 
in Shaw’s ‘‘ London Market Gardens” (London: 37, Southampton Street). 
Also, if Grapes are to form a part of the trade, obtain Mr. A. F. Barron’s 
Vines and Vine Culture,” published at this office. 
Eucharis (F. F. C 'The plants are evidently attacked by the Eucharis 
mite, but we could only find one or two on the bulbs sent, and they do not 
appear to be badly infested at present. By all means follow the directions 
•given, and keep the Eucharists away from the Pancratiums. 
Wellingtonia Growths Dying ( II. M.). —The roots Bent to us do not 
suggest that the source of the evil is in the soil. The withered branches 
present the appearance of being injured by sulphurous acid, and as you 
say “ much smoke and sulphur from the works near pass by aud over the 
tree ” that, we believe is the cause of the injury. We are obliged by your 
better, and the communication to which you refer will appear in due time. 
Erica mundula (C. M.). —The woodcut (fig. 54) will give you a better 
Fig, 54.—Erica maLdula. 
idea of this Heath than any description. It is a summer-flowering species 
of neat habit, the branches slender, the flowers in fours, bright red in the 
csntre bordered with white. 
Warts on Hibiscus Roots (C. L .).—The warted condition of the roots 
is more marked than usual, and is natural to many plants besides Hibiscus. 
Th y a*e not as a rule detrimental, but are usually most noticeable when 
the plants are grown in soil containing much organic and esp:cially vege¬ 
table matter. Their presence is not due to nematodes, as in the case of 
many plants that have galled roots, the galls existing as an essential of the 
plant’s economy. It is supposed they act the purpose of storing matter 
required by the plant. That they have economic value is manifest from 
their never being absent in the most vigorous examples. The specimen 
roots sent have every appearance of being healthy, though very much 
galled. Try b iking the soil before it is used ; not, however, burning it, but 
■heating in an oven or other place to a temperature of over 212°, striking 
and growing the plants in that soil. There is no danger, however, at pre¬ 
sent of the plantB falling a prey to nematodis of the description that infest 
•Cucumber roots. If you like to try an experiment on juour present plants, 
or some of them, place about a teaspoonful of iton filings on the surface of 
a 9 inch pot and stir lightly in, watering whenever necessary with a solu¬ 
tion of chloride of sodium (salt), half ounce to a gallon of water, then nitrate 
of potash (saltpetre), also half ounce to a gallon of water, and chloride of 
lim ■, also half ounce to a gallon of water, and afterwards with water only as 
required. We should b3 obliged if you would in a month send us roots of 
a, p'ant so treated. 
Scale on Apple Trees (H. H. C .).—Strong solutions of Gishurst com' 
pound, nicotine soap, Fir tree oil, and other insecticides will destroy scale, 
used as advised by the vendors ; so will a strong soap solution and petroleum 
in equal parts, applied after the leaves fall. We do our best to name fruits 
fioni the specimens before us, but both Apples and Pears are influenced by 
soils, stocks, and position; and it is seldom that the precise conditions 
under which the spec.mens are grown are made clear to us, this placing 
both the growers and ourselves at a disadvantage in endeavouring to ascer¬ 
tain c orrect names. 
What is an Amateur 7 ( W. F. P.). —A citegorical reply cannot be 
given to this question. The framers of the schedules of very large shows 
regard all persons who are not nurserymen as amateurs ;,but this distinc¬ 
tion cannot apply to local shows, in which it is desirable to draw the line 
belween professional gardeners and persons who do not employ them, or 
only very occasionally to carry out work that is ordered to be done. In 
such c ses an amateur might perhaps be defined as “one who does not 
make his living by gardening, and does not employ a gardener regularly.” 
This slight altering of your suggestion may possibly meet the case of others 
who may be in a similar position to yourself. 
Eucharis and Gardenia Culture (Young Gardener). —The Eucharis are 
infested with the mite. They will do no good until they are shaken out, the 
roots washed, and started again in fr. sh compost. The best plau would be 
to secure a f esh stock of healthy plants. Tney do well in a compost of 
turfy Lam rather strong, with a filth of well-decayed manure intermixed. 
In potting the bulbs should be covered fully an inch deep. Bottom 
heat will a-sist them to make roo's, it being 90° at the base of the pots. 
Gardenias do well in good fibrous peat without any admixture, and will take 
almost any amount of liquid manure. Eucharis can ; be flowered twice or 
ofiener iu a year by first securing good growth, and when complete afford¬ 
ing a rect of about six weeks, then placing the plants in heat, when they 
will start into flower. When in good condiiion they flower twice a year 
wi hout any p rticular treatment, other than that of growing in a stove 
with plenty of light and liberal feeding when making fresh growth. The 
Pelargoniums will not do much good on the back wall of a vinery. 
Camellias, if you want flowers, would be more suitable. The Roses would 
be best planted out, making a border for them about 18 inches to 2 ftet 
deep, and providing good drainage. Goi/d loam, with a fourth of well- 
decayed manure and a sprinkling of crushed bones, would grow them 
well. 
Preserving the Colours ot Leaves (B. T.). —The following plan is 
recommend d by a lady who has been successful in pr< serving autumn 
leaves:—As soon as possible after gathering them the leaves must be pressed. 
If they begin to welt or shrivel before you are ready to press them, put them 
in water and keep them there until they revive. See that no soil, no foieign 
substance of i ny kind, is on either side, and then with a warm, not hot, flat 
iron press aDd iron each leaf on its upper surface till it is perfectly dry, 
spreading it for this purpose on several lajers of paper, or on an ordinary 
ironmg-board, just as if it were cotton cloth. This over, oil each leaf on the 
same side on which it was ironed withlirse'd, olive, cr lard oil, using a 
small camel-hair brush or a bit of cotton batting tied to a stick, and tt en 
place them on dishts in the sunshine to dry. When dry reject all tho.e tha.. 
have a semi-transparent or oily appearance ; to prevent this get the thickest 
leaves yt. u can for your collection, and do not oil them too generously nor 
with a rough brush. It is a mistiken notion that autumn leaves need 
varnishing. Varnish makes them brittle and more liable to crack, while the 
excessive lustre that it imparts is unnatural. Oiling gives sufficient polish, 
deepens, clears, and preserves the colours, and keeps the tissu. s somewhat 
elastic. When the leaves get dusty wipe them with a damp cloth; if they 
curl damp them, and place the branch lor a few hours between papers under 
a pile of heavy books. 
Marechal Niel Rose (B. S. V. P.). —You do not say whether you intend 
to grow the Rose under glass or in ttie open, or whether it is dug from the 
open ground or established in a pot. A compost formed of five or six parts 
sound turfy loam, one of manure sufficiently decomposed to mix well with 
the soil, with a shovelful or two of wood ashes to a bushel of the loam, will 
grow the Rose well if kept scrupulous'y free from insects. A quart of bone 
meal and a little le:S of soot would sti 1 further improve the compost. Roses 
dug from the ground must be closely pruned. Moie particulars are 
necessary for mabling the most suitable treatment to be detailed. 
Heating a Greenhouse (V. E. S.). —We thought our reply covered every 
thing. We stated what in our opinion was the eisiest, cleanest and most 
certain method. We have not had experience with the “oil hot-water 
apparatus” you m ntion. We have known stoves ia houses both fail and 
succeed according to iheir capacity for the woik, and the ap itude and 
attention displayed in their management. If y^ur house is a span-roof 
we have not seen an oil st ,ve that would heat it satisfactorily, nor are we 
certain you would find one to answer if the house is a lean-to. You give no 
idea of its height. 
Plants for Rockery (W. B. T.). —Do not confine your plants to those 
of a “ creeping character,” but mingle with them others of a dwarf compact 
or spreading growth, and the effect will be much more satisfactory. Among 
those which we find to answer are Erica carnea, Azalea amoena, Kalmia 
nana, Erica Foxi, Phlox frondosa,P. Nelsoni, P. verna, P. setacea, Plumbago 
Larpentte, Thymus lanuginosus, Silene maritima, Hypericum patnlum, 
Lithospermum prostratum, Rhododendron ferrugineum, Andromeda flori- 
bunda, A. Catesbcei, and Gaultheria procumbens. 
Lady Downe’s Grape Unsatisfactory (Bev. F. F.). — The specimens 
sent show a very unsatisfactory condition of the Vine, the berries being 
very small, badly set, and shrivelled. It is no doubt in consequence of a 
deficiency of heat iD the early stages of growth, defective ventilation, and 
neglect of fertilisation when in flower. There must also have been a 
deficiency of nutriment during growth (especially at the time of ripening) 
and not sufficient heat. To grow Lady Downe’s well it should be started 
not later than early March, and encouraged with gentle fire heat in the 
spring and early summer. It should be fertilised with Black Hamburgh 
polleu, maintaining a rather dry heat during the setting of 65® to 75° 
artificially, 10° to 15° advance from sun heat. In thinning be careful to 
remove the very small berries only, and early, deferring the general thinning 
until the berries are the size of peas, when the sloneless ones from tln-ir 
lagging behind are readily distinguished. This Grape is also liable to scald, 
which usually takes place when the stoning is completed, or about th-ee 
weeks before changing colour for ripening. Maintaining a temperature of 
65° at night and 70° to 75° by day artific ally, ventilating early and freely 
through the day, is effectual in pr-venting it. The Grapes ought to be 
thoroughly finished by the middle of September, or at latest by the end of 
that month, but the highest perfection is attained when the ripening is 
