November 24, 1887. ] 
JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 
457 
Princess Teck, Barbara, Pink Venns, and Nil Desperandum. Mr. T. Ash¬ 
man look the second prize with larger incurved flowers, but a few of them 
very rough. Mr. W. Lane, gardener to E. Lawrence, Esq., King’s Ride, 
Ascot, was awarded the third position. All the collections were very close) 
indeed, there were only a few points between them. Several groups fur¬ 
nished the Bides of the Hall, the best coming from Mr. Sinclair, gardener 
to the Marchioness of Downshire,East Hampstead Park, WokiDgham. Mr. 
Ashman made a very good second, and Mr. Wilkes, gardener to J. C. 
Heathcote, Esq., Ptlly Court, \\ okiDgham, third. For six specimens the 
prizes fell to Messrs. Ashman, Goddard, and Wilkes in the order of their 
mimes. The principal amateur exhibitors were Mr. Oaiger Heffer, Mr. 
Hostler, and Mr. Bedford. Among cottagers, Messrs. Parsey, Couderey, 
and Lewis exhibited well. Both fruit and vegetables were very numerously 
represented and of high-class order, being seldom met with so gcod. 
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FRUIT FORCING. 
Pines. —Well ventilated span or three-quarter span-roofed pits or 
small houses properly ventilated are the most suitable for small stock, 
which at this season often suffer irreparable injury from being kept too 
close and warm, the plants being drawn and weakly. At night 65° 
should jiot be exceeded, but a mean between that and 55° at night, which, 
with 65° in the daytime, will keep all young stock gently progressing, 
admitting a little air at the top of house at 65°, leaving it on all day, 
but not to lower the temperature! below that point, and when the sun 
raises the temperature to 75° a free circulation of air should be allowed. 
Keep the bottom heat steady at 80°, avoiding anything approaching to a 
damp atmosphere, moderate humidity will suffice. Apply water only 
when the plants become dry, and then give weak liquid manure. Keep 
the plants near to the glass and allow them plenty of room. 
Suckers ready for starting now may be kept until March,and if there 
is likely to be a scarcity of suckers, any recently potted may be retained 
in 5-inch pots, affording them a light position in a moist pit, with a 
slight bottom heat and a temperature of 55° at night, keeping them 
rather dry at the roots. In the fruiting department (55° will be ample 
at night, 5° lower in the morning in cold weather, 70° to 75° by day. 
Take every opportunity of collecting leaves whilst dry, Oak and Beech 
being the best, and whenever a favourable opportunity offers push 
forward whatever may be necessary in the renewing or augmenting the 
fermenting beds. 
Figs. — Earliest Forced Planted-out Trees .—The earliest house, or 
that with the trees in inside borders, should now be closed with a view 
to having ripe Figs in May, but where the earliest Figs are had from 
trees in pots starting of the trees planted in borders may be deferred 
until the new year, so as to afford a succession. Yet if the trees planted 
out be now started they will afford a closer succession to those now 
being forced in pots. Water in a tepid state should be applied to the 
roots at frequent intervals until the soil is thoroughly moistened, intro¬ 
ducing thoroughly sweetened leaves and stable litter in ridge form into 
the house to produce a moist genial condition of the atmosphere, and 
induce gentle excitement, as well as to economise fire heat. Commence 
with a temperature of 50° at night, 55° by day, and 65° from sun heat, 
syringing the trees and every available surface in the morning and early 
in the afternoon, unless the weather be dull and cold, when the morning 
syringing only sht uld be practised. Admit air moderately whenever 
the weather is mild, closing the house with sun heat at 65°, or if it 
exceed that with full ventilation close the ventilators when the sun 
heat begins to decline. 
Earliest Trees in Pots .—These must not be hurried by too much 
bottom heat, but as the fermenting material settles more should be 
added and pressed firm, being very careful not to allow the heat about 
the pots to exceed' 65°. When the buds are swelling freely the tempera¬ 
ture may be increased to 55° at night, 60° by day by artificial means, 
admitting a little air at that, and allowing an advance to 70° or 75° by 
sun with corresponding ventilation, closing at 65°. Sprinkle the trees 
and house morning and afternoon, or in the morning only if the weather 
be dulL 
Preparing Trees for Early Forcing .—Young trees intended for 
forcing in pots another season should be shaken out and repotted, 
starting them into growth shortly or at once, so that they may make the 
necessary growth and complete it early, so as to have time to rest before 
being forced for fruiting. Brown Turkey, White Marseilles, and Negro 
Largo are excellent varieties. 
Peaches and Nectarines. —Earliest House .—When the buds 
have commenced swelling maintain a temperature of 40° to 45° at night 
and 50° to 55° by day, admitting air moderately at the latter figure, 
allowing the temperature to rise to 65° from sun heat, syringing the 
trees and every available surface morning and afternoon until the bloom 
buds are showing colour, after which the syringing may be discontinued, 
but sprinkling the house, walls, and paths may be continued as before. 
There must be no attempt at a close atmosphere, but allow a little air 
at the top of the house to lessen the condensation of moisture by the 
glass. The inside border will require to be supplied with water slightly 
v armor than the mean of the atmosphere, maintaining the soil in a 
thoroughly moist state. Borders inside require careful watering, making 
sure that every part of the soil is thoroughly moistened. Outside borders 
will be benefited by lights or shutters in addition to a covering of 
bracken or litter for throwing off heavy rains and snow. 
Houses to Afford Ripe Fruit in May or Early June .—The house 
should be closed early in December, but no fire heat should be applied 
except to exclude frost, and for an hour or two in the early part of the 
day if the weather be severe ; not, however, exceeding 50° by fire heat 
m the daytime, syringing the trees and every available surface morning 
and afternoon. A ridge of thoroughly sweetened dung and leaves placed in 
the bouse after the border is well moistened will afford atgenial atmosphere 
superior to that obtained from hot-water pipes, admitting air whenever 
the weather permits, Peaches delighting in a well-sweetened atmosphere. 
Succession Houses .—Push forward the pruning, thoroughly cleansing 
the glass and woodwork, whitewashing the walls, and dressing the trees 
for the destruction of insects. Secure the trees, 'to the trellis, top-dress 
the borders, and keep the house cool by ventilating abundantly in mild 
weather. If the roof lights are moveable and off by all means let them 
remain so until the time arrives for starting the trees. No frost will 
injure the wood if it be ripe, and if not ripe satisfactory crops are not 
obtainable. 
PLANT HOUSES. 
Gardenias .—Plants that are swelling their flower buds must not be 
kept in a lower temperature than 65° if they are to swell properly. Be 
careful not to give too much water, this will bring about deformity of 
the flower buds. If carefully supplied with water the same tempera¬ 
ture as the house, and artificial manure is applied in small quantities to 
the surface of the soil at intervals of two or three weeks, the roots will 
continue active and the flower buds develope naturally. Those that are 
first showing their flower buds and intended for spring flowering will do 
very well in a temperature 5° lower, provided they are not kept°too wet 
at their roots. Young plants in 2-inch pots intended for growing on 
early in the year should be placed in the first named temperature so 
that they can be kept slowly advancing. Pinch out the points of the 
plants to prevent their running up tall. Keep these plants close to the 
glass, but be careful that the soil does not become dry about their 
roots. 
MediniUa magnifica.—Tha growth of this plant should be completed, 
but, to further ripen it and insure a thorough season’s rest, remove it 
from the stove to an intermediate temperature, the atmosphere being 
kept drier, and less water should be given to the roots. .Keep the soil on 
the dry side, but do not allow the roots to perish by giving an insuffi-' 
cient supply. While under these conditions this plant is very liable to 
the attacks of thrips, which, if not destroyed, will quickly injure its large 
beautiful foliage. The best and quickest method of destroying thrips is 
to syringe the plant thoroughly with a solution of tobacco water. 
Antliurium Schertzerianvm .—All plants that have completed their 
growth may be removed from the stove to any structure where an in¬ 
termediate temperature can be maintained. They are ready for removal 
at any time after the foliage is fully developed. While under cooler 
treatment give the plants less water at their roots, or else they will 
perish. By giving them a good season of rest under such conditions 
they will be found to grow with increased vigour another season and 
flower with greater freedom than if kept in the stove the whole year 
round. 
Antliurium Andreanum .—The supply of water to the roots of this 
plant should be slightly diminished. If kept in the stove it will con¬ 
tinue to flower the whole season. On this account it is invaluable and 
conspicuous during the winter. 
Impaticns Hankeri .—Give those first coming into flower as light a. 
position in the stove as possible, where they will not be subjected to too 
much moisture on their foliage from the syringe. Keep young plants in 
2 and 3-inch pots close to the glass in a temperature 'of 60°. When 
ready the points may be removed to induce them to branch. Under 
this treatment they will grow strongly and make grand plants for early 
spring flowering if placed when ready into 5 and 6-inch pots. Use for 
a compost loam, one-seventh of manure, and a little sand. Press the soil 
firmly into the pots, this will prevent a soft rapid growth which re¬ 
sults from loose potting and the use of leaf mould amongst the soil. 
I. Sultani may also be allowed to come into flower. Pinch later plants 
for succession, and place sturdy seedlings now in 2-inch into 4-inch pots. 
If these are grown close to the glass and not too warm they will be very 
useful when the bulk of the winter flowering plants are over. 
Begonia Ingrami .—Bushy plants in small pots that have broken into 
fresh growth since they were pinched may be given a small shift at once 
and allowed to come forward into flower. These plants will be ready 
for the stove by the time Poinsettias, Euphorbias, and other similar 
plants are getting over. These plants will do well on a shelf where the 
temperature does not fail below 55°. Pinch when needed plants in 
3-inch pots that were rooted six weeks ago, and keep them in this size 
until early in January, when they may be placed into others 2 inches 
larger. 
Begonia nitida .—This and its varieties may be placed into 5-inch 
pots when ready for spring flowering. It is a mistake to place these 
kinds into too large pots in autumn, for they do not flower freely before 
February. If placed in their flowering pots between now and January 
as they become ready they will be invaluable for the stove until mid 
su mmer. 
