December 15, 1887, 
] JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 
525 
subject may be deferred accordingly. Pyramids or busbes of either 
Plums or Cherries may be treated much the same as Apples and Pears— 
that is to say, may have all lateral growth not required for furnishing 
the trees spurred back to near the main branches, the leading growths 
being either freely shortened back, or, if there is plenty of head room 
be left to their full length. Standards, especially of Plums, require to 
be freely thinned out, or the inside of the trees are profitless. Fore¬ 
shortening, or the act of cutting back the long straggling branches to 
better placed smaller ones, is also advisable. 
Morello Cherries, which are very profitable either on north walls or 
as pyramids or standards, require different treatment to the rest. These 
fruit principally on the young growths formed the season previous, and 
this should therefore be merely thinned as well as much of the old wood 
as can be safely taken out, and that reserved laid in neatly. Also thin 
out the young shoots on the pyramids and standards, but do not shorten 
back those saved. The bulk of the fruit sold in the London markets is 
grown on standard trees, and these would also be found most profitable 
in private gardens if the birds, notably blackbirds, could be kept from 
the fruit. r 
FRUIT FORCING. 
Vines.— Early Forced Vines in Pots .—Attention must be given to 
the fermenting materials in the pits, and if the pots are placed on pillars 
frequent additions of material should be made as the heat declines. 
The heat about the pots must be kept between 70® and 75°. The tem¬ 
perature should have been raised gradually after the buds commenced 
swelling from 55°, so as to have it about C0° to 65° 'by the time 
they are coming into leaf, allowing an advance of 5° to 10° by day 
carefully admitting a little air at 70°, and close early. Disbud as soon 
as the bunches can be detected, reserving the most promising. Stop 
the laterals about two joints beyond the bunches. The laterals proper, or 
those on the growth of the current year, should be removed up to the 
bunches, and those beyond allowed to extend as the space permits with¬ 
out crowding, it being essential that the foliage retained have full ex¬ 
posure to light and air, and no more than that encouraged. Usually a 
couple or three joints of lateral extension are sufficient for fruiting 
Vines in pots, the crop preventing much further extension. Where 
fermenting materials are employed the necessity for the application of 
moisture will not be so great as where the heat is obtained solely from 
hot-water pipes. Evaporation troughs should be filled with liquid 
manure or guano water, one pound of guano to twenty gallons of water, 
which may also be employed for damping the floors, Ac., after closing 
the house, or early in the afternoon. 
Early Forced [louse .—The buds of Vines started last month now 
show signs of swelling, and another good watering should be given the 
inside border at a temperature of 85° to 90°, and in the case of old Vines 
liquid manure should be freely applied. From the time the buds com¬ 
mence swelling the temperature should be raised 2° or 3° in the course 
of a few days, not exceeding 60° to 65° by artificial means until the 
Vines have produced their leaves. In quick forcing, and where the 
Vines are thoroughly established and have had a long rest, growth may 
be induced by a brisk moist heat of 70° to 75°, continuing it until the 
eyes have fairly started growing, when the temperature should be 
allowed to fall to 00° to Go 0 , with 5° to 10° rise in the daytime, it being 
important whilst the foliage is being made that a moderate temperature 
be employed, in order to secure short-jointed wood and stout well- 
developed foliage. Young Vines that have not been forced early will 
need to be brought down to a horizontal position to ensure their break- 
regularly. Some well fermented short stable manure and leaves 
placed in ridges on the inside borders will afford a genial moisture anil 
warmth, and lessen the necessity for frequent syringing. See that the 
fermenting materials on outside borders are not cooled "by snow melting 
on them, and lose no opportunity of turning and adding fresh material 
as may be required. 
Stkawbekries in Pots. —When the crowns commence swelling 
and the trusses appear the temperature may be advanced a few degrees 
by day. A temperature of 50° to 55° at night is sufficiently high for 
the present. Syringing the plants-gently in the early part of bright 
afternoons will be advantageous. Examine the plants daily, and supply 
water to all those which require it. Keep a sharp look out for aphides, 
and if any appear fumigate the house on two consecutive calm evenings, 
or at this time of year it may be practised in the evening and tarly the 
following morning. 
More plants should be placed in a house from which frost is ex¬ 
cluded, the decayed leaves being removed, and the surface soil loosened 
and top-dr. ssed with horse droppings rubbed through a sieve. The 
drainage should be attended to and if necessary rectified, and the pots 
washed. The plants may be introduced during the next three weeks to 
a Peach house or to a Strawberry house if such be available. La Grosse 
feucree, Vicomtesse Hericart de Thury, Sir Harry, and President are 
suitable varieties. Plants for introducing later on will be quite safe in 
their quarters out of doors plunged in ashes to the rim, and a light 
covering may be given of dry fern or litter in severe weather, removing 
it in mild weather. 
• mf EH * RY ^ 0USE -—To insure a supply of ripe Cherries from the 
middle of April and onwards houses which are to be employed for that 
purpose must now be closed. Be sparing of fire heat at the commence¬ 
ment, not employing it unless absolutely necessary to maintain the 
temperature at from 35° to 40° at night, and 40° to 45° by day, ventilat¬ 
ing when the temperature is about 50° to 55°. Close the house at 50°. 
Syringe the trees and available surfaces early on fine afternoons, so as to 
admit of the buds becoming dry before nightfall. The border will be 
sufficiently moist through the removal of the roof lights, if not it must 
have water to bring it into a thoroughly moist state. Trees in pots if 
at ail dry will require repeated supplies of water to secure the thorough 
moistening of the soil to the base of the pots 
Early Farced Trets in 2^-Early Figs are best secured 
on tiees in pots, as a slight warmth at the roots is highly beneficial ; 
but even this has its disadvantages, as when the heat at the roots is 70° 
or more during the early part of the forcing process the growth is too 
apid, therefore see that the heat at the base of the pots is not more than 
“v™ le ? ves a re unfoWing, when the temperature may be 75° or 
even 80 at the base of the pots. The temperature of the house should 
be increased gradually to 60° at night, 65° by day by artificial means in 
severe weather 5 more in mild weather, 70° to 75° with sun heat and . 
moderate ventilation, closing at 75°, but be careful not to bring on the 
growth too rapidly, especially in dull weather, as foliage produced under 
such conditions is not of stout texture, but thin and liable to scorch 
under blight sun, and to invite red spider. Water in a tepid state must 
be applied to the roots as required, and the trees and house must be 
syringed morning and afternoon, so ag to have the foliage dry before 
become drv mPmg ^ h0USe later in the day U the atmos P^ ere b a3 
PLANT HOUSES. 
Adiantum cuneatum.~Vla.ntB from which the fronds have been cut 
must not be placed in too low a temperature or supplied with cold water 
direct from the mam, or they will fail to start freely into growth. If 
supplied with tepid water and kept in a temperature of 50° 
until the early part of next month they will be safe, and may then be 
i , , P JWth m some structure where the temperature ranges 
about it) higher Be careful not to allow moisture to fall or rest upon 
fully developed fronds. Nothing causes them to turn brown sooner at 
tins period of the year. Keep young plants that are growing freely in 
4-mch pots in a temperature of 60°. Water them carefully and keen 
the foliage dry Small plants in thumbs may be kept in the same 
temperature ; if possible plunge the pots to prevent the soil drying so 
rapidly. * 5 
Asparagus plumosus. —This is unquestionably one of the best plant s 
that can be grown for the production of greenery during the winte r 
months. It will do well in any cool structure where frost is excluded 
In a cut state it is invaluable, and will last fresh in rooms for fully a 
fortnight. If plants have been stripped of all that is of service for 
cutting place them in heat, and they will soon commence growing freely 
and give abundance of material again in two or three months’ time. If 
this plant can be placed out in a cool house it will soon attain a large 
size and yield a supply over the greater portion of the year. 
Fuchsias.—Where these are required early prune plants that have 
been kept dry and have had a good season of rest. These should be in¬ 
troduced into a vinery or Peach house that is first started, or any other 
similar structure where they can be liberally syringed and the atmo¬ 
sphere kept rather moist. Good syringings will afford ample water for 
the first week or ten days, when the soil about the roots may be 
moistened with tepid water. 
Cannot .—These are very useful and effective for groups in rooms and 
halls where gas is used and very little light reaches them. Introduce a 
few plants into the same conditions as advised for Fuchsias, and when 
they are starting divide the crowns and place them singly in 5 or 6-inch 
pots. If larger plants can be used place clumps with three or more 
crowns in 7 or 8-inch pots. 
Chrysanthemums. —Give abundance of air to those required for 
flowering during January. The buds will swell rapidly and expand 
quickly at this season if the house in which they are placed is kept close. 
In case of frost use no more heat than is necessary to keep the tempera¬ 
ture at 35°. Although the season has been a warm and bright one 
Princess of Teck will be plentiful until the end of January. But these 
are from plants that were kept outside until the severe weather of a few 
weeks ago compelled us to place them under glass. Every plant kept 
for late flowering has developed buds, and they are expanding freely, 
which is not always the case when the summer and autumn has been 
damp and sunless. Throw out all plants as- the flowers fade that are 
not required for stock. Keep the old stools needed for this purpose in a 
late Peach house or vinery from which the foliage has fallen, give them 
plenty of air to keep them sturdy. Where plants are grown for the 
supply of exhibition blooms cuttings may beinserted at once. They can 
be inserted in a cold frame similar to Calceolarias in light sandy soil, 
and when they are rooted lifted and potted. Perhaps the best method 
is to insert them singly in small pots and place them under handlights, 
or in a frame in a vinery or other structure where the temperature will 
range about 4o . AVhen rooted on the latter principle they can be grown 
without a check. 
Lapagerias.— Those that have been grown in pots should, if practi¬ 
cable, be planted out, for they will grow much more rapidly under these 
conditions than in pots. When planted out and well established it is 
surprising what enormous shoots they push from the base, and the 
flowers are nearly double the size of those from pot plants. In planting 
them out be careful that the border is well drained, for they require 
abundance of water during the season of growth. Use for a compost 
rough fibry peat and good loam in equal proportions, with charcoal in 
lumps, and sandstone broken up, to be freely intermixed to keep the 
soil open and porous. They dislike a compost that will have a tendency 
to beeome sour. 
